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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 03-17-15, 07:47 AM
  #6826  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
I think you are trying to be playfully funny, but it's early and I don't get it.
If you just say Blue and Black, everything will be fine.
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Old 03-17-15, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by nelsonmilum
If you just say Blue and Black, everything will be fine.
That's all we need to say on that matter.
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Old 03-17-15, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
That's all we need to say on that matter.
Oh yes, I saw gold and white!
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Old 03-17-15, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Oh yes, I saw gold and white!
Hello, kindred spirit.
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Old 03-17-15, 11:34 AM
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I don't get it. I only see blue and gold.
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Old 03-17-15, 12:55 PM
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What things really cost.

From the 1938 Hercules catalogue. “Unchippable” electric blue paint.
The price of £6:8:0 for the 3 speed version converts to $672.00 in today’s money.
A solid investment for a working man in 1938!

Cost in 2015, $200.00 including new tires and tubes ($75.00) NOS brakes and pads ($60.00), vintage pump ($20.00) and a new chain ($15.00).
I added the fenders ($25.00), Saddle ($150.00), vintage block pedals ($5.00) a vintage trigger and new cable ($13.00).
I 'm going to swap out the saddle for a vintage Wrights ($60.00) that I'll get tomorrow.
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Last edited by gster; 03-18-15 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 03-17-15, 04:05 PM
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The Perfect Bicycle?
Saw this in the interweb the other day.
A 1951 Hercules King 3 Speed.
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Old 03-17-15, 06:41 PM
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Chain ring, top of fork tubes, fender stays, on my wife's 1958 Birmingham built beach beater as we do a Black Beauty on bringing the old warhorse back into service...

[Gawd these are beautifully bulletproof bikes...]

Beside the red oak...

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Old 03-17-15, 08:04 PM
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@gster - I've always wondered how those grips fit on a drop bar. Aren't those more "mountain" type grips (22.2) and aren't drop bars 23.8? I love that look of grips at the ends of certain drop bars. How'd they do that? Are there modern grips that would fit drop bars?

Cook bikes. I'm jealous.
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Old 03-18-15, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
@gster - I've always wondered how those grips fit on a drop bar. Aren't those more "mountain" type grips (22.2) and aren't drop bars 23.8? I love that look of grips at the ends of certain drop bars. How'd they do that? Are there modern grips that would fit drop bars?

Cook bikes. I'm jealous.
Thank you VV. The black bike isn't mine, just something I found online.
I don't know about the grips.....
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Old 03-18-15, 09:20 AM
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Ride a Wheel on Sheffield Steel!
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Old 03-18-15, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
What things really cost.
From the 1938 Hercules catalogue. “Unchippable” electric blue paint.
The price of £6:8:0 for the 3 speed version converts to $672.00 in today’s money.
A solid investment for a working man in 1938!

Cost in 2015, $200.00 including new tires and tubes ($75.00) NOS brakes and pads ($60.00), vintage pump ($20.00) and a new chain ($15.00).
I added the fenders ($25.00), Saddle ($150.00), vintage block pedals ($5.00) a vintage trigger and new cable ($13.00).
I 'm going to swap out the saddle for a vintage Wrights ($60.00) that I'll get tomorrow.
I have this bike in red. Whoo-hooo. $700!

Last edited by clubman; 03-18-15 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 03-18-15, 10:18 AM
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QUESTION: Nobody has ever answered this question, so I pose it here. Is it absolutely necessary to use caged bearings in a Sturmey Archer AW hub? I know in other applications cages are simply for convenience at the factory for assembly. One can ditch the cage and use loose ball bearings. Can I do that on my AW hub or will it cause "issues"? I'm not necessarily gonna do it, but I don't like cages if at all possible.

Thanks!
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Old 03-18-15, 10:41 AM
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My understanding is that free bearings can be used and might be slightly more free- seems to me this was discussed 'way earlier on this thread. But if I got it right, a set of free bearings in a later hub are not as free as a set of caged bearings in a hub built in the 50s or before.
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Old 03-18-15, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
What things really cost.

From the 1938 Hercules catalogue. “Unchippable” electric blue paint.
The price of £6:8:0 for the 3 speed version converts to $672.00 in today’s money.
A solid investment for a working man in 1938!

Cost in 2015, $200.00 including new tires and tubes ($75.00) NOS brakes and pads ($60.00), vintage pump ($20.00) and a new chain ($15.00).
I added the fenders ($25.00), Saddle ($150.00), vintage block pedals ($5.00) a vintage trigger and new cable ($13.00).
I 'm going to swap out the saddle for a vintage Wrights ($60.00) that I'll get tomorrow.
I wonder how many of these they sold. What would a run of the mill 3 spd sold for at that time?
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Old 03-18-15, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
QUESTION: Nobody has ever answered this question, so I pose it here. Is it absolutely necessary to use caged bearings in a Sturmey Archer AW hub? I know in other applications cages are simply for convenience at the factory for assembly. One can ditch the cage and use loose ball bearings. Can I do that on my AW hub or will it cause "issues"? I'm not necessarily gonna do it, but I don't like cages if at all possible.

Thanks!
You can if you add extra balls to make up for the space used by the cage. But, for 8 bucks, you can junk the plastic cage and buy a nice new steel unit from Harris.
Sturmey-Archer Ball Retainer 7 x 1/4" - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
I remember how people would argue endlessly about things like pre-load and cages on ball bearings. I'm sure there are some sound mechanical principals
in these discussions, but, and this is just my opinion...with bicycle bearings, you can get away with things that won't fly on a big truck transmission. They don't take that much stress and they are easy and cheap to replace. So even if you were left with an uneven gap with loose balls, it wouldn't be a problem. The races aren't all that accurate anyway. And as far as any benefit from loose ball bearings over caged ball bearings...who knows, but I'll bet if there is any, it doesn't add up to a hill of beans.

Last edited by BigChief; 03-18-15 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 03-18-15, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BGBeck
I wonder how many of these they sold. What would a run of the mill 3 spd sold for at that time?

Another page from the 1938 Hercules catalogue
£4:10:6 = $460.00 today
£6:5:0 = $634.00

A good resourse for vintage catalogues
https://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...ge=29&items=80
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Old 03-18-15, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
You can if you add extra balls to make up for the space used by the cage. But, for 8 bucks, you can junk the plastic cage and buy a nice new steel unit from Harris.
Sturmey-Archer Ball Retainer 7 x 1/4" - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
I remember how people would argue endlessly about things like pre-load and cages on ball bearings. I'm sure there are some sound mechanical principals
in these discussions, but, and this is just my opinion...with bicycle bearings, you can get away with things that won't fly on a big truck transmission. They don't take that much stress and they are easy and cheap to replace. So even if you were left with an uneven gap with loose balls, it wouldn't be a problem. The races aren't all that accurate anyway. And as far as any benefit from loose ball bearings over caged ball bearings...who knows, but I'll bet if there is any, it doesn't add up to a hill of beans.
Oh, one of the many co-ops in Portland has them & my original ones are metal anyway, just bit mangled (long story). I got new cage (they only had 1 new one that was exactly the right size), and all is well. Thanks for your response.
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Old 03-18-15, 01:21 PM
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Raleigh Price List 1968.
It appears that ALL Raleighs are given a DL number.
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Old 03-18-15, 01:24 PM
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Raleigh Price List 1968.
It appears that ALL Raleighs are given a DL number.
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Old 03-18-15, 01:44 PM
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Hi,

I had my first flat while on a ride in a very, very long time with my Raleigh Sports. I have a reproduction (Sunlite) pump just to fill the space between the pegs and as a pump it is less than ideal (useless).I lucked out in having the flat in front of a guys house who saw me patching the tube and struggling to fill the tire and was nice enough to offer to let me use his bike pump. I am thinking about a CO2 inflator and was wondering does the 16 gram CO2 charge have enough to fill a 26 x 1-3/8 tire to 65 psi? I don't care if I have to carry more than one, they seem cheap enough but was wondering.
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Old 03-18-15, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
I got new cage (they only had 1 new one that was exactly the right size), and all is well. Thanks for your response.
Out of curiosity, what do do have in mind for this hub? It's not for your Phillips right? Whatcha building?
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Old 03-18-15, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DaytonaMike
Hi,

I had my first flat while on a ride in a very, very long time with my Raleigh Sports. I have a reproduction (Sunlite) pump just to fill the space between the pegs and as a pump it is less than ideal (useless).I lucked out in having the flat in front of a guys house who saw me patching the tube and struggling to fill the tire and was nice enough to offer to let me use his bike pump. I am thinking about a CO2 inflator and was wondering does the 16 gram CO2 charge have enough to fill a 26 x 1-3/8 tire to 65 psi? I don't care if I have to carry more than one, they seem cheap enough but was wondering.
Actually I suspect something like this is cheaper. I have one of these on my Superbe. It won't go super high in pressure but it can do 55-60 pounds no worries which should be able to get you home, and it looks the part more or less which means it fits where its supposed to:

Vintage Bicycle Pump Tyre Inflator Chrome Metal 16 5"for Raleigh Schwinn Etc | eBay

It might be that your Sunlite simply needs a new gasket or a shot of oil. It might be worth a look- a shot of oil really isn't that expensive as these things go
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Old 03-18-15, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DaytonaMike
Hi,

I had my first flat while on a ride in a very, very long time with my Raleigh Sports. I have a reproduction (Sunlite) pump just to fill the space between the pegs and as a pump it is less than ideal (useless).I lucked out in having the flat in front of a guys house who saw me patching the tube and struggling to fill the tire and was nice enough to offer to let me use his bike pump. I am thinking about a CO2 inflator and was wondering does the 16 gram CO2 charge have enough to fill a 26 x 1-3/8 tire to 65 psi? I don't care if I have to carry more than one, they seem cheap enough but was wondering.
It probably would have enough. If it's not enough for 65 psi, it's enough to get you home.

But I don't like CO2 cartridges. As my friend says, they are the K-cup of bicycle air. They don't do anything well. I wouldn't use a CO2 system if it were my only system. I might carry it while still carrying a pump. I could accidentally discharge the cartridge, and then where would I be? Disposable cartridges? Even the gas is disposable. It seeps out overnight. Just bring a useful pump.
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Old 03-18-15, 03:09 PM
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^^ This.

I used to bring CO2 for flats on my motorbike. A friend had a flat so I gave him a CO2 charge. It was gone in an instant and the tire no better because he had not fixed the flat. The remaining cartridges were dead and they were only a few months old! Lesson learned- bring a pump.
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