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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 03-31-15, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
Yep, as sixtyfiver notes, this is a decent light, good for city biking and use on MUPs. I have to say that any modern B+M LED headlamp with standlight is good. There are definitely better lights than this, but unless you're going to do lots and lots of riding in dark places all night, the RetroTec will be plenty of light!
Great, thanks. I just happened upon another sturmey light so I'll try that one for a bit to see if it is any better but I may be convinced to go for the modern LED.
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Old 04-01-15, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I hope you'll be able to take this one back from the brink.
Thanks, I hope I can too. Paint, decals, sheet metal, all might survive though it needs to be treated vary carefully, Chrome, I'm going to investigate that. My understanding is that if it can be redone that I don't want to do any scrubbing or cleaning before I talk to the plater. Something about contamination between the layers of plating. I don't know anything about this stuff -- just what I can glean from watching, reading, and listening. I think a lot of the rust, on the dynohub and common parts, will not be a problem. And for stuff that's commonly replaceable, like crank arms, if necessary, I'm not too worried. But that stem -- if that stem is a feature of the Superbe and not the Sports, I really would like to preserve it.
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Old 04-01-15, 05:17 AM
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My 69 Sprite has that same stem. Also they changed the top cup from a pressed in to a threaded on type.
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Old 04-01-15, 08:19 AM
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@desconhesido - nice looking bike. That green is really nice.
@PalmettoUpstate - I haven't seen many red ones. Will you post some photos once you get it all cleaned up?

Theres a SA GH6 dyno dated 1952 laced to a Raleigh wheel on my local CL. Nice man selling but doesn't know if it works. It's inexpensive though. Other than putting it in a fork & spinning it & using a key across the connection points is there a way for me to tell if it makes light?

DYNO HUB STURMEY ARCHER

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Old 04-01-15, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
@desconhesido - nice looking bike. That green is really nice.
@PalmettoUpstate - I haven't seen many red ones. Will you post some photos once you get it all cleaned up?

Theres a SA GH6 dyno dated 1952 laced to a Raleigh wheel on my local CL. Nice man selling but doesn't know if it works. It's inexpensive though. Other than putting it in a fork & spinning it & using a key across the connection points is there a way for me to tell if it makes light?

DYNO HUB STURMEY ARCHER
Any voltage meter will tell you if it's putting out a current. Set it on a low setting (i.e. 6 v or so) and AC (not DC), put the leads on the contact points, and turn the wheel. You don't have to spin it very far, a quarter turn will be more than enough. Or make a tester by attaching leads to a flashlight bulb. If the thing puts out any current at all, you can be pretty sure it's putting out the correct current. It is either working or not working.

But seriously, for $25 you can't go wrong. Just buy it. If it's a dud, I'll take it off your hands.
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Old 04-01-15, 10:01 AM
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Time for you to buy a voltmeter. You needed an excuse, right? Well, here it is.
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Old 04-01-15, 09:01 PM
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Sixty fiver, do I see a couple of "threaded" drivers in your stock?
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Old 04-01-15, 10:16 PM
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Here's the new acquisition. Haven't had a chance to see if it worked. Guy said a "scorned" woman had all her ex-husband's stuff (apparently he left her for the babysitter & said "you keep it"). She sold all his road bike Campy stuff, some high end mountain bike stuff along with a box of vintage stuff. Apparently she didn't realize what she had and didn't care either. Anyway, that's how this seller got the goods. He really just wanted the mountain bike stuff, but it was a group deal.

Anyway, it's a SA GH6 dated 10 52 on a Raleigh branded rim. Hub feels very tight & dry, and I'll be surprised if the races aren't pitted. I used a little brass wool on the chrome rims and they shined right up. It has an oil port in the center of the hub with the metal band. Here are some photos:
1952 Sturmey Archer GH6 Dyno by velocivixen, on Raleigh branded rim by velocivixen, on Branding & Date Code by velocivixen, on Oil Port on SA GH6 Front Dyno by velocivixen, on Band on Oil Port Hub. by velocivixen, on Face Plate Dyno Side GH6 by velocivixen, on Flickr
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Old 04-02-15, 05:21 AM
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Nice score @Velocivixen! That will clean up very nicely.

BTW - that rim has the satin strip in the middle (by the spoke holes) so don't polish that out!
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Old 04-02-15, 07:45 AM
  #7060  
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Sorted out the collection of SA parts that were living in tubs, trays, and tins... and there is still more to sort through here as I have been picking up old shop stocks for a long time.

As far as I know I am the only shop, besides our co-op that is equipped to overhaul our beloved 3 speeds.





I'm a bit jealous!
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Old 04-02-15, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Here's the new acquisition. Haven't had a chance to see if it worked. Guy said a "scorned" woman had all her ex-husband's stuff (apparently he left her for the babysitter & said "you keep it"). She sold all his road bike Campy stuff, some high end mountain bike stuff along with a box of vintage stuff. Apparently she didn't realize what she had and didn't care either. Anyway, that's how this seller got the goods. He really just wanted the mountain bike stuff, but it was a group deal.

Anyway, it's a SA GH6 dated 10 52 on a Raleigh branded rim. Hub feels very tight & dry, and I'll be surprised if the races aren't pitted. I used a little brass wool on the chrome rims and they shined right up. It has an oil port in the center of the hub with the metal band. Here are some photos:
1952 Sturmey Archer GH6 Dyno by velocivixen, on Raleigh branded rim by velocivixen, on Branding & Date Code by velocivixen, on Oil Port on SA GH6 Front Dyno by velocivixen, on Band on Oil Port Hub. by velocivixen, on Face Plate Dyno Side GH6 by velocivixen, on Flickr
Yes, good score!
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Old 04-02-15, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Called about this one today.
BSA Golden Clubman not sure of the year. Seller has got someone coming today to look.
Called to go and see this one yesterday but it had just sold. Just as well, really. I've got too many bikes as is and probably wouldn't have ridden it much anyway.
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Old 04-02-15, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Theres a SA GH6 dyno dated 1952 laced to a Raleigh wheel on my local CL. Nice man selling but doesn't know if it works. It's inexpensive though. Other than putting it in a fork & spinning it & using a key across the connection points is there a way for me to tell if it makes light?
Attach the leads of a voltmeter to the terminals and give the axle a spin with your fingers (or chuck it in a drill, if you prefer). If the voltmeter jumps, it's generating electricity.
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Old 04-02-15, 08:54 AM
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Not a 3 speed but worthy of a mention. A nice clean. original bike at a reasonable price.Currently available on Kijiji Toronto @ $160.00.
Vintage 1972 Raleigh Carlton Glider 10-speed road bike.


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Old 04-02-15, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Yeah, looks like they might have used the same vat of paint doesn't it?
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Old 04-02-15, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
Except that bike you posted is from Seattle! Or more specifically Enumclaw, a far-flung eastside suburb.

But yeah I know, Seattle and Portland might as well be the same city to a resident of the Tar Heel State.
Nay Nay, I do know where Portland is vs. Seattle. Heck, I almost went to some little school in Eugene to finish my BA that had been interrupted by a stint in Jarhead Land which wound down in Southern California in '73.

BTW, don't know if it was meant as a pun, but the "Tar Heel State" would be North Carolina and the "Palmetto State" is South Carolina. Vastly different despite the contiguous border... We know NC as "The People's Republik of North Carolina" Ha-Ha!
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Old 04-02-15, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
@PalmettoUpstate - I haven't seen many red ones. Will you post some photos once you get it all cleaned up?
Yes, I plan to do so.

Theres a SA GH6 dyno dated 1952 laced to a Raleigh wheel on my local CL. Nice man selling but doesn't know if it works. It's inexpensive though. Other than putting it in a fork & spinning it & using a key across the connection points is there a way for me to tell if it makes light?

DYNO HUB STURMEY ARCHER
I'm jealous. I never see anything like this out here in bicycle flyover country. On the other hand, a more positive note is that I am generally able to acquire really nice British 3 speeds at bargain basement prices. Lightweight Schwinn 3 speeds not so much but still better than the big markets. You need another bike to put that wheel on ;v)
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Old 04-02-15, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Yeah, looks like they might have used the same vat of paint doesn't it?
The cue for me is the jet-age shape of the chainguard.

@Velocivixen, I love your new (new, ha) wheel. Now you need a problem for your solution.
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Old 04-02-15, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
The cue for me is the jet-age shape of the chainguard.
Yeah, your '66 Herc has the "Tron" [my appellation] chainguard like on our gold/chrome '67 Herc:

[very "jetty" indeed!]
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Old 04-02-15, 03:11 PM
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Update: We have a volt meter but it has straight probes & hard for me to hold on the poles & spin things, so don't know if it makes electricity. I disassembled and thought for sure the cups cones would be horroble because when I spun the axle it was very rough. Turns out the left side cup had thick hard dry grease that was making it feel bumpy. Here are cleaned up photos. Then have questions.
GH6 Axle by velocivixen, on GH6 Ball Cages by velocivixen, on GH6 Armature & Magnet by velocivixen, on GH6 Magnet Cover Plate by velocivixen, on FlickrGH6 Dyno Side Hub by velocivixen, on Flickr


I am missing part # GL623 Spacing Cup. How important is this? Is there something I could get from the hardware store that would work? I'm going to a coop shortly and they have drawers of old Sturmey Archer parts.

Am missing Part # X42 & X42A (1/8" & 1/16" washers) - I could use ones from the hardware store right?

Also I managed to over tighten one of the magnet fixing bolts and broke it. Ugh. Coop is my friend.

OK. Still don't know how I'm gonna figure out if it makes electricity unless I hook it up to a real wheel. Maybe my Phillips.

NOTE: This is the page I'm referring to when naming parts numbers:

https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/pic-1061.jpg

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Old 04-02-15, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
OK. Still don't know how I'm gonna figure out if it makes electricity unless I hook it up to a real wheel. Maybe my Phillips.
I realize you probably just want an excuse to buy more tools, but to test with your current voltmeter (pun intended) tie a couple of wire leads to the poles on the hub, and tape them to your voltmeter probes. Then spin the wheel....
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Old 04-02-15, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
I realize you probably just want an excuse to buy more tools, but to test with your current voltmeter (pun intended) tie a couple of wire leads to the poles on the hub, and tape them to your voltmeter probes. Then spin the wheel....
OK, we might already have those. My spouse has all sorts of stuff that I don't know about unless I specifically ask. Likely won't have to buy anything.

How about the spacer cup & spacers?
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Old 04-02-15, 03:31 PM
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Hold the probes in one hand like chopsticks.
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Old 04-02-15, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
BTW, don't know if it was meant as a pun, but the "Tar Heel State" would be North Carolina and the "Palmetto State" is South Carolina.
Wait, there's a South Carolina?

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Old 04-02-15, 06:21 PM
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Well, the coop that has the most SA stuff does NOT have dynamo stuff. They have everything else you could think of. So where would I obtain a Magnet fixing bolt?
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