For the love of English 3 speeds...
#7526
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#7527
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#7528
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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Went on a father's day ride with my wife and youngest daughter yesterday... we all rode our R20's.
#7529
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I should be doing the next one in October, though I'll be attempting the Three Speed Camping Tour in late August!
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@browngw - what a beauty. What are your plans for it?
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He will become part of the family I assume. He has been dubbed "Sir Ways A. Tonne" to reflect his heritage and heft (over 40 lbs!) I put air in the tires, original Raleigh Roadster marked, and rode it down the street but much work needs to be done. I been lucky enough to find some parts, but the rust on the front wheel is really bad. You can see more here https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ays-tonne.html and here https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...you-offer.html I'm really looking forward to this project.
#7532
Senior Member
@Sixty Fiver - Great photo. Looks like a "mom" & "dad" R20 had a baby!
I took apart the headset on the R20 today, and found the bottom section bone dry! Oh my! The top has a plastic bushing which looks new. For those who don't know, in order to completely remove the handlebar stem, you must remove the front brake bolt, because there's a metal cable type piece with a loop at the end. Brake bolt goes through the loop & other end attatched to the bottom of the stem, that way one can't accidentally move the handlebars up too high.
Wire From Handlebar Stem by velocivixen, on FlickrPlastic Headset Bushing by velocivixen, on Flickr
I tried using the usual method to determine if the headset was adjusted properly - by applying the front brake then rocking the bike back & forth. Lesson of the day is: when you have extremely long brake caliper arms which are flexy this method does not work. Finally got it adjusted just right and all is well with the world.
I took apart the headset on the R20 today, and found the bottom section bone dry! Oh my! The top has a plastic bushing which looks new. For those who don't know, in order to completely remove the handlebar stem, you must remove the front brake bolt, because there's a metal cable type piece with a loop at the end. Brake bolt goes through the loop & other end attatched to the bottom of the stem, that way one can't accidentally move the handlebars up too high.
Wire From Handlebar Stem by velocivixen, on FlickrPlastic Headset Bushing by velocivixen, on Flickr
I tried using the usual method to determine if the headset was adjusted properly - by applying the front brake then rocking the bike back & forth. Lesson of the day is: when you have extremely long brake caliper arms which are flexy this method does not work. Finally got it adjusted just right and all is well with the world.
#7533
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I found a guy on craigslist that says he works at a bike shop and also fixes bikes up on the side. All kinds of vintage bikes, from beach cruisers to 10 speeds. We chatted a bit about what I'm looking for - something to get around my city neighborhood, and maybe go 2-3 miles on pretty flat roads to get 1 or 2 neighborhoods over. He recommended an English 3-speed. I'm going to check this one out on Sunday. He said it's a Huffy Sportsman by Raleigh, but in looking at more pictures on this forum, the crank looks different. Thoughts?
Last edited by stm25rs; 06-24-15 at 10:35 PM.
#7534
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
@Sixty Fiver - Great photo. Looks like a "mom" & "dad" R20 had a baby!
I took apart the headset on the R20 today, and found the bottom section bone dry! Oh my! The top has a plastic bushing which looks new. For those who don't know, in order to completely remove the handlebar stem, you must remove the front brake bolt, because there's a metal cable type piece with a loop at the end. Brake bolt goes through the loop & other end attached to the bottom of the stem, that way one can't accidentally move the handlebars up too high.
I tried using the usual method to determine if the headset was adjusted properly - by applying the front brake then rocking the bike back & forth. Lesson of the day is: when you have extremely long brake caliper arms which are flexy this method does not work. Finally got it adjusted just right and all is well with the world.
I took apart the headset on the R20 today, and found the bottom section bone dry! Oh my! The top has a plastic bushing which looks new. For those who don't know, in order to completely remove the handlebar stem, you must remove the front brake bolt, because there's a metal cable type piece with a loop at the end. Brake bolt goes through the loop & other end attached to the bottom of the stem, that way one can't accidentally move the handlebars up too high.
I tried using the usual method to determine if the headset was adjusted properly - by applying the front brake then rocking the bike back & forth. Lesson of the day is: when you have extremely long brake caliper arms which are flexy this method does not work. Finally got it adjusted just right and all is well with the world.
She likes riding no handed and the steering is smooth as silk.
The headtube had to be cut down and re-faced to allow for the increased stack height of the new headset but that was simple enough and the upper hardware stayed inatct so things stayed full adjustable.
#7535
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I found a guy on craigslist that says he works at a bike shop and also fixes bikes up on the side. All kinds of vintage bikes, from beach cruisers to 10 speeds. We chatted a bit about what I'm looking for - something to get around my city neighborhood, and maybe go 2-3 miles on pretty flat roads to get 1 or 2 neighborhoods over. He recommended an English 3-speed. I'm going to check this one out on Sunday. He said it's a Huffy Sportsman by Raleigh, but in looking at more pictures on this forum, the crank looks different. Thoughts?
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I hadn't even heard of English 3-speeds or internal hubs before I talked to the guy.
I had been thinking about a 3 or 5 speed bike, since I don't plan on any long rides, or very many slopes - I'm just looking for an inexpensive, comfortable bike, most rides will be ~0.5 miles, some as long as 2 or 3. Having done some research, I think I like the idea of an internal hub and a thumb shifter.
Are the American Huffy's total junk, or would ~$100 seem fair for one in good condition?
I had been thinking about a 3 or 5 speed bike, since I don't plan on any long rides, or very many slopes - I'm just looking for an inexpensive, comfortable bike, most rides will be ~0.5 miles, some as long as 2 or 3. Having done some research, I think I like the idea of an internal hub and a thumb shifter.
Are the American Huffy's total junk, or would ~$100 seem fair for one in good condition?
#7537
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#7538
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I hadn't even heard of English 3-speeds or internal hubs before I talked to the guy.
I had been thinking about a 3 or 5 speed bike, since I don't plan on any long rides, or very many slopes - I'm just looking for an inexpensive, comfortable bike, most rides will be ~0.5 miles, some as long as 2 or 3. Having done some research, I think I like the idea of an internal hub and a thumb shifter.
Are the American Huffy's total junk, or would ~$100 seem fair for one in good condition?
I had been thinking about a 3 or 5 speed bike, since I don't plan on any long rides, or very many slopes - I'm just looking for an inexpensive, comfortable bike, most rides will be ~0.5 miles, some as long as 2 or 3. Having done some research, I think I like the idea of an internal hub and a thumb shifter.
Are the American Huffy's total junk, or would ~$100 seem fair for one in good condition?
#7539
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I hadn't even heard of English 3-speeds or internal hubs before I talked to the guy.
I had been thinking about a 3 or 5 speed bike, since I don't plan on any long rides, or very many slopes - I'm just looking for an inexpensive, comfortable bike, most rides will be ~0.5 miles, some as long as 2 or 3. Having done some research, I think I like the idea of an internal hub and a thumb shifter.
Are the American Huffy's total junk, or would ~$100 seem fair for one in good condition?
I had been thinking about a 3 or 5 speed bike, since I don't plan on any long rides, or very many slopes - I'm just looking for an inexpensive, comfortable bike, most rides will be ~0.5 miles, some as long as 2 or 3. Having done some research, I think I like the idea of an internal hub and a thumb shifter.
Are the American Huffy's total junk, or would ~$100 seem fair for one in good condition?
#7540
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Curious Velo Gathering – Bicycle Swap Meet
“Curious Velo Gathering – Bicycle Swap Meet”. Sunday, July 12th from 8.00am to 2.30pm. Parking lot behind 97 Massachusetts Avenue in Lexington, MA
For those in the New England area, this parking lot swap meet promises to be 3-speed parts heaven. And the shop's not too shabby either.
For those in the New England area, this parking lot swap meet promises to be 3-speed parts heaven. And the shop's not too shabby either.
#7541
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Can anybody explain what is so bad about the Shimano hub?
Only thing I can really find is that it's not as easily to rebuild as a SA, and therefore not as desirable. Is it more likely to break in the first place?
Only thing I can really find is that it's not as easily to rebuild as a SA, and therefore not as desirable. Is it more likely to break in the first place?
#7542
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As suggested, I got a lamp bracket from Ebay to keep my basket off the front brake. I read in the material that came with the basket that you can wet it to bend it if you need to, so I bent the back of the basket to the shape of the bracket, since it sticks out at an angle. I also bent the bottom of the basket away from the front brake area. I threaded a zip tie through and around the bracket to keep it from swinging back and forth. I'll replace the tie with something prettier when I get it all figured out, but it's just about invisible anyway. Yesterday I took it for a test ride with a bit of weight in it. It's a lot better, the brakes worked great, but the straps slid down a bit and it started to move around a little too much. If I tighten the straps, the basket kind of sticks out at an angle, which I don't like, so I had them at the loosest setting, which isn't ideal either. A bit more adjusting, I think, like I think the tie is way over on one side here, but it's way more usable than it was, and I'm happy to have a nicer looking solution than dedicated basket hardware. The bracket looks pretty cool by itself. If I hadn't already bought the basket (actually it was a gift and the person ordered it online, too much of a hassle to return) I would probably have picked a different one to start with.
Untitled by Lindsay Joy, on Flickr
Untitled by Lindsay Joy, on Flickr
I also did my headset while I had it apart, my front hub, and as mentioned in another thread, my bottom bracket. It's like a whole new bike! I do have an issue with the rear fender, which has a really bad rattle. Everything is as tight as it can be, so I'm not sure how to fix it. Maybe some leather washers?
Untitled by Lindsay Joy, on Flickr
Untitled by Lindsay Joy, on Flickr
I also did my headset while I had it apart, my front hub, and as mentioned in another thread, my bottom bracket. It's like a whole new bike! I do have an issue with the rear fender, which has a really bad rattle. Everything is as tight as it can be, so I'm not sure how to fix it. Maybe some leather washers?
Last edited by forestine; 06-25-15 at 11:12 AM.
#7543
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Neoprene washers would probably be more durable, but well-oiled leather washers would most likely do the job.
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#7545
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I was a bike mechanic when the Shimano hub was in production. My hazy memory says yes, it was more likely to break, but that doesn't mean it will break on you. It might work just fine. But when it breaks, it is done.
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Check the little spring tab that holds the front of the rear fender against the frame. Sometimes, the tab comes out of the little hole in the fender.
#7548
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But if you want a nice old English three speed to lavishly restore (and of course post photos here!) you'll want to keep looking.
That's the impression I've gotten too. The other thing I heard is that Shimano didn't do a great job of supporting them, so the only way to rebuild one is with a donor hub. I still see my share of Shimano 3.3.3. hubbed bikes on the streets of Portland, so I'm guessing they are still working. Or, they broke and now they are single speeds!
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Tightened the basket straps and re-wet and bent it up a little higher. Looks like that's solved my issues but I need to wait till it dries and give it a test ride first. Yay!
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I'm going to state a slightly divergent opinion and say that those old Huffys aren't all that bad, so long as you are getting the bike for free or really cheap (like $25.) They make great BBL (beater-bar-loaner) bikes. And say what you want about one piece Ashtabula cranks, they are easier to work on than cottered!
But if you want a nice old English three speed to lavishly restore (and of course post photos here!) you'll want to keep looking.
But if you want a nice old English three speed to lavishly restore (and of course post photos here!) you'll want to keep looking.
I've been keeping an eye on craigslist and a couple local facebook "for sale" groups, but haven't seen anything in the $100-150 or less range that's even close to appealing, and with summer here, I want a bike yesterday. I'm in Baltimore, so there's a pretty active bike market, and I've heard the local bike shops are very aggressive on craigslist, snatching up all the good value bikes quickly.
I don't have any interest in restoring a bike. Never heard the term BBL before, but that's exactly what I'm looking for.
Thanks everybody, for all the info.