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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-26-15, 09:24 PM
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I am showing Bikesmith is not selling the good cotters any longer as it has become to hard to source them. I have 2 projects im trying to finish and will need cotters. Both are raleigh sports models but not direct Raleigh models. I have one huffy sportsman (1962) built by raleigh for huffy. Its a sports replica. Ive also got a Robin Hood Sports (1957) which is also a Raleigh sports re-branded. Both are to the point where they need cotters installed. I knew i shouldnt have waited so long. After all work ive done id rather not put the grade b cotters in them. Where you you all get your cotters? When ordering how do i know they are not the cheap ones?(Bikesmith calls these "grade b").
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Old 07-27-15, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by scale
I am showing Bikesmith is not selling the good cotters any longer as it has become to hard to source them. I have 2 projects im trying to finish and will need cotters. Both are raleigh sports models but not direct Raleigh models. I have one huffy sportsman (1962) built by raleigh for huffy. Its a sports replica. Ive also got a Robin Hood Sports (1957) which is also a Raleigh sports re-branded. Both are to the point where they need cotters installed. I knew i shouldnt have waited so long. After all work ive done id rather not put the grade b cotters in them. Where you you all get your cotters? When ordering how do i know they are not the cheap ones?(Bikesmith calls these "grade b").
Any 3/8" (9.5mm) cotter pin will work as long as the taper is steep enough to be filed down to match the fit of the particular bike. Most of the generic pins I've bought lately are. I just need to fit them to each bike.
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Old 07-27-15, 09:04 AM
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Looks like it is Larger then the one needing replacement.

Also a one screw, what to do...
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Old 07-27-15, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by scale
I am showing Bikesmith is not selling the good cotters any longer as it has become to hard to source them. I have 2 projects im trying to finish and will need cotters. Both are raleigh sports models but not direct Raleigh models. I have one huffy sportsman (1962) built by raleigh for huffy. Its a sports replica. Ive also got a Robin Hood Sports (1957) which is also a Raleigh sports re-branded. Both are to the point where they need cotters installed. I knew i shouldnt have waited so long. After all work ive done id rather not put the grade b cotters in them. Where you you all get your cotters? When ordering how do i know they are not the cheap ones?(Bikesmith calls these "grade b").
If you use a cotter press you are likely to be able to reuse the old cotter.

If you simply lacking the parts the first stop is a bike coop. They tend to have cotters on hand somewhere...
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Old 07-27-15, 08:32 PM
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If you search "Raleigh reflector" on eBay, you'll find these repros. They don't specify size, but if they are period correct, they may fit your lens.
Vintage Bicycle Raleigh Rear Reflector Mudguard Fender Humber Rudge 1950s | eBay
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Old 07-29-15, 06:16 AM
  #7806  
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First thing yesterday morning, an ad popped up in the local CL for a Raleigh Tourist - asking price $100. The photos looked like everything was in order, so I wasted no time in contacting the seller. We made arrangements to meet as soon as he returned from work that afternoon. I tried the bike and everything was in good order, so I didn't waste time by haggling over the price. Here are some "as found" photos.



Does anyone have suggestions on the best place to find replacement consumables (tires, tubes, brake pads)? Also, is there an easy method to remove the wheels (without completely removing the brake pads) for tire repair/changes?
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Old 07-29-15, 06:55 AM
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^ Nice DL-1! I'm afraid there's no way to remove the wheels without removing brake pads or at least one side. But that's easy enough to do. Getting the rear wheel off without having the chain slide into the chain case is another challenge!
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Old 07-29-15, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
First thing yesterday morning, an ad popped up in the local CL for a Raleigh Tourist - asking price $100. The photos looked like everything was in order, so I wasted no time in contacting the seller. We made arrangements to meet as soon as he returned from work that afternoon. I tried the bike and everything was in good order, so I didn't waste time by haggling over the price. Here are some "as found" photos.



Does anyone have suggestions on the best place to find replacement consumables (tires, tubes, brake pads)? Also, is there an easy method to remove the wheels (without completely removing the brake pads) for tire repair/changes?
Wow. Great find! Congrats. Very rare to see one with an enclosed chain on this side of the Atlantic. I got 28x 1 1/2" tires from Harris Cyclery. I did have to remove the brake pads to get the wheels off.
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Old 07-29-15, 08:40 AM
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This one just showed up locally. Nice original rack.

Raleigh Colt 3-speed

Raleigh Colt 3-speed - $60 (Colonial Heights)







Vintage Raleigh Colt ladies 26 inch bike...3 speed...needs tires and tubes... $60
call show contact info between 8am and 8pm
NO TEXT...MY PHONE DOES NOT TEXT 804-255-3167
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Old 07-29-15, 08:40 AM
  #7810  
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Originally Posted by dweenk
First thing yesterday morning, an ad popped up in the local CL for a Raleigh Tourist - asking price $100. The photos looked like everything was in order, so I wasted no time in contacting the seller. We made arrangements to meet as soon as he returned from work that afternoon. I tried the bike and everything was in good order, so I didn't waste time by haggling over the price. Here are some "as found" photos.



Does anyone have suggestions on the best place to find replacement consumables (tires, tubes, brake pads)? Also, is there an easy method to remove the wheels (without completely removing the brake pads) for tire repair/changes?
Great looking DL1, and a good deal as well. Schwalbe Marathon was the only tire my LBS could get but tubes were in stock a the local hardware store! I found some NOS "Duro" tires at a swap. I also found shift parts and a cable at two older bike shops that once sold Raleighs in their heyday. Older shops don't seem to throw stuff out.
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Old 07-29-15, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
This one just showed up locally. Nice original rack.

Raleigh Colt 3-speed

Raleigh Colt 3-speed - $60 (Colonial Heights)







Vintage Raleigh Colt ladies 26 inch bike...3 speed...needs tires and tubes... $60
call show contact info between 8am and 8pm
NO TEXT...MY PHONE DOES NOT TEXT 804-255-3167
Colts are hard to find. They are a "compact" frame and are just the ticket for anybody who wants to ride a traditional 3 speed, but has trouble with a 21" Sports frame.
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Old 07-29-15, 09:31 AM
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That's a nice Colt and a nice price. I'm still looking for a smaller 3 speed & will transfer my wheels over that I built for the Phillips.
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Old 07-29-15, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
First thing yesterday morning, an ad popped up in the local CL for a Raleigh Tourist - asking price $100. The photos looked like everything was in order, so I wasted no time in contacting the seller. We made arrangements to meet as soon as he returned from work that afternoon. I tried the bike and everything was in good order, so I didn't waste time by haggling over the price. Here are some "as found" photos.



Does anyone have suggestions on the best place to find replacement consumables (tires, tubes, brake pads)? Also, is there an easy method to remove the wheels (without completely removing the brake pads) for tire repair/changes?

Great score! I got the tires for my DL1 from Wallingford Bike parts wallbike.com | Wallingford Bike PartsReplacing tires and tubes on a DL1 is a major PITA so get as close to bombproof as you can find. I put Koolstop salmon pads on mine (EBay) and they are impressive. The trick I found to adjusting the brakes is to get the pads aligned to the rims and then raising the handlebars to bring them closer to the rims.

I just finished installing a side stand on mine (never had one and now I know why). I'll get pictures up in a few days.
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Old 07-29-15, 11:44 AM
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I'm getting closer to getting my 1948 CWS off the work stand. It has been a challenge to remove surface rust and gunk while leaving patina in place. That process took much longer than I would have supposed.

I rebuilt the FW hub this morning. It was freewheeling so apart it came. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary and there was some light grease in it which probably started out as oil. After reassembly, it spins pretty nice, ticks happily, and engages all the gears. The FW is a bit trickier to rebuild than an AW, at least from my experience. I was a little surprised to find it has a screw on sprocket.
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Old 07-29-15, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Gasbag
The trick I found to adjusting the brakes is to get the pads aligned to the rims and then raising the handlebars to bring them closer to the rims.
Sounds like you have dealt with rod brakes before - which brings up another question. My drive side brake pad barely catches the edge of the rim, while the pad on the other side is very close to the spoke nipples. It would seem that I need to loosen the clamps that hold the yoke(?) to the fork and rotate them a bit to the left. I'm not going to do this until someone confirms that it is OK. Here's pix.



Drive side, then the other side
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Old 07-29-15, 12:44 PM
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^^^^^

I totally disassembled mine and realigned everything. I did bend the short arms that the pads bolt to for optimal rim contact with the pad. I can lock up the front wheel and the back almost locks. I've read many complaints about rod brakes being ineffective, but honestly with a little time spent setting them up they can perform quite well. Also, be sure to oil all of the pivot points to ensure proper release.
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Old 07-29-15, 03:41 PM
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Enroute to salvation...

I never before have seen anything quite like this. Since I've liked these bikes since I was a kid, I had to step up to save a '73. Under a 1/2" of sludge/grime I found paint! I have enough shiny "like new" chrome pieces to turn this bike around nicely. It was a barn find that the animals literally made a home of. It's future rider is doggin' me now to get it ready to ride.
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Old 07-29-15, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cycleheimer
I never before have seen anything quite like this. Since I've liked these bikes since I was a kid, I had to step up to save a '73. Under a 1/2" of sludge/grime I found paint! I have enough shiny "like new" chrome pieces to turn this bike around nicely. It was a barn find that the animals literally made a home of. It's future rider is doggin' me now to get it ready to ride.
Man, when you take on a project like that, you really have a PROJECT. Good luck.
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Old 07-29-15, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Wow. Great find! Congrats. Very rare to see one with an enclosed chain on this side of the Atlantic. I got 28x 1 1/2" tires from Harris Cyclery. I did have to remove the brake pads to get the wheels off.
Since it has a Norfolk, VA license sticker, I'm thinking that maybe a sailor brought it from a country where the configuration was more common.
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Old 07-29-15, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jman0war
Firstly, i'm working on restoring a couple fenders PalmettoUpstate was kind enough to offer.
I find that one of the stays on the rear fender is quite bent.
The mounting holes line up with the rest so i'm partially tempted to just leave the stay as it is.
But I had a quick go at straightening it.
I put a board down and drove a couple nails around the stay, then used a small hammer to try and pound the first bend.
But I didn't really make much progress and I'm concerned about damaging the weld area.

I put a piece of wood between the hammer and stay so i wasn't pounding directly onto the metal.
Maybe i need to shore this up better with bigger pieces..
I'm thinking maybe i should use heat, like a blow torch and heat the stay?
Anyway, maybe this is unnecessary and I should leave it bent.
What are your thoughts?
You could try drilling a hole into a small wooden batten. The hole should be about 1/2" or so - it should be a close fit over the stay. Clamp that wood into a vice, or secure it some other way.
Slip the stay through the hole, then slide another similar piece of wood over the stay and use the leverage to gently bend the stay where you want to go.
I think that hammering it without heat, might cause it to become slightly work hardened, so it'll never be right. It's also a bit difficult to control the amount of movement you apply to a piece when using a hammer. Long levers give much better control. It might never be absolutely straight, but you should be able to get rid of the worst of that curliness...
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Old 07-29-15, 09:56 PM
  #7821  
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Just scored yet another project. '71 ladies' Raleigh Sports, $60 offa Craigslist. Pretty complete, some surface rust, nothing bad...even has the original Sir Walter pedals in good shape, and integral pump pegs. Odd color that I don't think is original.





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Old 07-30-15, 08:07 AM
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@arex, I'm pretty sure the stem is not original and that the brake levers are from later models. Also, the front fender looks short, so maybe it was replaced. The color is quite nice. It seems possible it's original paint but I don't know.
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Old 07-30-15, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
@arex, I'm pretty sure the stem is not original and that the brake levers are from later models. Also, the front fender looks short, so maybe it was replaced. The color is quite nice. It seems possible it's original paint but I don't know.
1. You're right about the stem, now that I look closer at it. Not sure what it is, but it's pretty old itself. Seems serviceable, though, I imagine I'll re-use it.
2. You're right about the fender. There's a weird fin-thing pressed into it that doesn't look too Raleigh-y...it's the sort of crap you'd see on an older American bike.
3. Since I've had a chance to really examine the paint, I can say it's not original. They tried to mask off some of the Raleigh decals with varying success before painting, and some of the gold highlights were poorly masked. Looked over some of the paint scratches and chips, but I can't tell what might've been underneath.
4. This seems like a pretty large frame. My wife, who is 5'10", almost had trouble reaching the pedals with the seat all the way down. Hopefully, this can be mitigated with a lower-profile saddle like an unsprung Brooks.

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Old 07-30-15, 09:16 AM
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@arex, I take your word for it on the paint.

It's nice that they made a large women's frame. I think it had a 22" or 23" seat tube. If the bike is for your wife, I hope you can make it work for her with a change of saddle.
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Old 07-30-15, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
Man, when you take on a project like that, you really have a PROJECT. Good luck.
Thanks. Shouldn't be too bad after it's disassembled. Should turn out nicely. Needs a good cleaning, disinfecting, and fresh grease. Most of the nasty stuff is getting tossed, or recycled as scrap metal. Original tires on it! Definitely one of the funkier project bikes I've taken on. "Ms. C.H." is also pretty finicky, but is looking at this one like it's a lost little puppy. I bought her an early '80s Mixte road bike (N.O.S. "Upper mid-range" with original manuals, paperwork, etc. -- not a speck of dust or scratch on it -- what a story on this one!), but she likes the comfort and stability of the English 3-speeds!
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