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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-30-15, 12:47 PM
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@arex

In the early seventies, Raleigh began off shoring some production. I am aware of Raleighs that were built in Malaysia and also by Gazelle in the Netherlands. There were a few odd runs that crossed the features of the LTD-3 and the Sports. The endrick rims on yours makes me suspect yours may be an offshore bike. Also, the Gazelle built Raleighs offered more vibrant colors than the staid British built ones. Gazelle also traditionally built tall frames as the dutch are some of the taller people on this planet. If you don't see a "Made in England" decal, you may well have a non-British British bike.
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Old 07-30-15, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Gasbag
@arex

In the early seventies, Raleigh began off shoring some production. I am aware of Raleighs that were built in Malaysia and also by Gazelle in the Netherlands. There were a few odd runs that crossed the features of the LTD-3 and the Sports. The endrick rims on yours makes me suspect yours may be an offshore bike. Also, the Gazelle built Raleighs offered more vibrant colors than the staid British built ones. Gazelle also traditionally built tall frames as the dutch are some of the taller people on this planet. If you don't see a "Made in England" decal, you may well have a non-British British bike.
That's interesting. I have 2 Raleighs that I bought from a guy in the estate auction business - he owned resort rental property and would leave vintage bikes for his renter's use. I bought a ladies Sports that had a locking fork (ala Superbe) and a factory rack that I had never seen on a Raleigh before. The other bike was a men's Royale 10 speed with Huret derailleurs, axle wingnuts, foil decals (including headbadge), BSA forks, and internal light wiring. The Royale is painted a medium dark green/blue. Both bikes have Belgian bike license plates that were attached to the left front fork or axle (Brabant). The Royale serial number is MG17365 which I believe denotes a Malaysian build, but has a Made in England decal. The Sports serial number is 1624904.
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Old 07-30-15, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gasbag
@arex

In the early seventies, Raleigh began off shoring some production. I am aware of Raleighs that were built in Malaysia and also by Gazelle in the Netherlands. There were a few odd runs that crossed the features of the LTD-3 and the Sports. The endrick rims on yours makes me suspect yours may be an offshore bike. Also, the Gazelle built Raleighs offered more vibrant colors than the staid British built ones. Gazelle also traditionally built tall frames as the dutch are some of the taller people on this planet. If you don't see a "Made in England" decal, you may well have a non-British British bike.
...which might also explain the non-standard stem. The seat's made in Taiwan (no idea if it's original), and the brakes are made by Polygon, a brand I don't know. I've seen the same brake levers on eBay as "Raleigh self-adjusting brakes", so I think that maybe those are original...they're pretty grinchy, so I might replace them with something more traditional.

The only decals still existent or visible are "Raleigh" on the downtube that some previous owner had carefully masked before painting it. Maybe I need to do some careful scraping with an Xacto knife to see what I can reveal.

If I'm measuring correctly, it's a 23" frame, maybe only 22". I'm a bit surprised they'd make a woman's frame this big.

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Old 07-30-15, 03:03 PM
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Lots of Canadian built Raleighs made it to the US as well. The R serials denote Canada. In bike shops in Canada we often had "made in England" bikes sitting beside Canadian models in the same colour. I sold a pair of emerald Sprites a while ago where one was Canada and the other was England (N serial) They were both sold in a shop in Ottawa Canada in 76.
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Old 07-30-15, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
first thing yesterday morning, an ad popped up in the local cl for a raleigh tourist - asking price $100. The photos looked like everything was in order, so i wasted no time in contacting the seller. We made arrangements to meet as soon as he returned from work that afternoon. I tried the bike and everything was in good order, so i didn't waste time by haggling over the price. Here are some "as found" photos.



does anyone have suggestions on the best place to find replacement consumables (tires, tubes, brake pads)? Also, is there an easy method to remove the wheels (without completely removing the brake pads) for tire repair/changes?
excellent purchase!
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Old 07-30-15, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
Lots of Canadian built Raleighs made it to the US as well. The R serials denote Canada. In bike shops in Canada we often had "made in England" bikes sitting beside Canadian models in the same colour. I sold a pair of emerald Sprites a while ago where one was Canada and the other was England (N serial) They were both sold in a shop in Ottawa Canada in 76.
Oddly, I can't find a serial number anywhere on this bike. Checked the seat lug very thorough with a bright light, checked under the bottom bracket, the dropouts...
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Old 08-01-15, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Gasbag
Great score! I got the tires for my DL1 from Wallingford Bike parts wallbike.com | Wallingford Bike PartsReplacing tires and tubes on a DL1 is a major PITA so get as close to bombproof as you can find. I put Koolstop salmon pads on mine (EBay) and they are impressive. The trick I found to adjusting the brakes is to get the pads aligned to the rims and then raising the handlebars to bring them closer to the rims.

I just finished installing a side stand on mine (never had one and now I know why). I'll get pictures up in a few days.

Thanks for the tip about Koolstop salmon pads. Didn't know about them. Bought some sort of NOS pads years ago and they're pretty bad.
Really looking forward to trying these.
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Old 08-01-15, 04:42 PM
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Here is the before and after on a 1985 robin hood i acquired and got back on the road. It rides fine (yes i know the fork is bent). I belive the crank might be tweaked as well but again....its a blast to ride and the 3 speed trigger shifter SA AW work great. Best shifting 3 speed rig i have been on. The fork is a bit jibbered in that the headset threads are about worn away in one spot. I am thinking of getting a chrome replacement for from Niagara but im not sure how that would look or if the rake is the same.
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Old 08-01-15, 04:50 PM
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And finally this one has taken me about 8 years.....mostly because im slow. 1963 Huffy Sportsman (Raleigh Sports). This thing is great but i cant get the shifting sorted. 2 and 3 work great but 1 just doesn't exist. ITs almost if the cable pulls right past it. IF the indicator is pulled to its max......i just sit and spin First gear is very hard to find. Lots of jiggling and hoping and i have tried everything. Its an AW. It sometimes goes in fine and other times there is nothing there. I am wondering if something inside is sticking. The rear wheel is wobbly. I wish i knew if the hub was junk too.....because at that point id just source another rear wheel. Id hate to lose my '63 stamp. I suppose i could rebuild it onto another rim. The only thing left on it is to polish the chain guard, and maybe scrap the grip shift for a trigger shift. I might throw some Kool Stops on it too. The John Bulls are a bit hard

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Old 08-01-15, 05:06 PM
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Wow - great job! Didn't think she'd clean up so well. What tires did you use - they look period and I'm always looking for new sources (this is for the Robin Hood).

On the huffy, I was having an ongoing issue with 1st on my Humber in spite of replacing almost everything in the hub with NOS parts. Slipped a new complete hub in there (retained the 49 stamp) and never looked back - best $25 I ever spent.
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Old 08-01-15, 05:14 PM
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This is a Robin Hood someone's selling for $100. I knew about this when I bought the Raleigh, but I'd forgotten about it at the time.

I see now what @noglider meant about the short fender. However, at the top end of the fender (forward of the fork) it seems identical, including the little peaked bit at the end that I previously was questioning.

Been fiddling with the weird "auto-adjusting" brake levers...I think they're original, based on some stuff I dug up, but they're a PITA. I think I'm going to find different levers.

I think the pedals are the newer, crappier non-rebuildable pedals, which is a shame because they're actually in really good shape for their age. I'd like to preserve them, if possible...if anyone has some tips on rebuilding the unrebuildable, I'm all ears.
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Old 08-01-15, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by arex
If I'm measuring correctly, it's a 23" frame, maybe only 22". I'm a bit surprised they'd make a woman's frame this big.
I think the British are, on average, taller than Americans. And if they had the Dutch market in mind, this would be a bit too short for many women there.
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Old 08-01-15, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I think the British are, on average, taller than Americans. And if they had the Dutch market in mind, this would be a bit too short for many women there.
Must be the beer.
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Old 08-01-15, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
Wow - great job! Didn't think she'd clean up so well. What tires did you use - they look period and I'm always looking for new sources (this is for the Robin Hood).

On the huffy, I was having an ongoing issue with 1st on my Humber in spite of replacing almost everything in the hub with NOS parts. Slipped a new complete hub in there (retained the 49 stamp) and never looked back - best $25 I ever spent.
Thanks...The tires on the robin hood are mismatched. Im looking for another like the rear. The front is an original. The rear is a Duro which was likely a replacement from what it orginally had on it. It is a bit skinnier than the front. The front may or may not be original but i can tell you it is quite weathered.

On the huffeigh......i didnt even think of swapping internals. I have another bare hub here somewhere. Ill have to give that a shot when i get time. I was convinced that the problem was in the grip shift/cable..but even working it by hand going down the road....1st is tough to engage. Im going to try oiling the hub. Pretty sure i did that a few years back with the oil can but it has been so long i cant recall.

I have no before pics of the huffeigh but it wasnt quite as bad as the robin hood. Not far from it though. OF the 2, i like the huffeigh the best to far but time will tell. I flipped the bars on the RH because i wanted a lower stance. The frame is a bit smaller the cockpit was a bit small. Flipping the bars put more weight on my hands and feels better overall.

Why did they put such short stems on them? There is litteraly 0 reach. I dont need much......heck...i ride a 80mm road stem on my road bike The steering is so twichy with them as short as they are.
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Old 08-01-15, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by scale
Why did they put such short stems on them? There is litteraly 0 reach. I dont need much......heck...i ride a 80mm road stem on my road bike The steering is so twichy with them as short as they are.
Not only that, the fork rake makes them twitchy. My wife tried my three speeds and absolutely refused to ride them. She couldn't deal with the short reach, and she is not a long-waisted person. She doesn't adjust well to different bikes.
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Old 08-01-15, 05:59 PM
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i got used to it quick....but it was a surprise at first. I suppose you could run an adapter and get longer stem to work with that but then you would have to get different bars and it would look weird. Ill get over it soon enough.

I have an extra raleigh light bracket. I know finding a light that fits these is tough.....plus i dont really want to run one of those goofy rub on the tire style generators. Has anyone found any kind of aftermarket light that fits on those mounts? Id like to find maybe an old headlight bucket and mount it with an LED.
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Old 08-01-15, 06:51 PM
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I re-built an old 60's vintage Top-Lite with a modified socket and LED flashlight bulb that fits on the old brackets. I have been moving it around and would love to find some more.


It is still powered by two D cells.
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Old 08-01-15, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
I re-built an old 60's vintage Top-Lite with a modified socket and LED flashlight bulb that fits on the old brackets. I have been moving it around and would love to find some more.


It is still powered by two D cells.
That is excellent. Thats just what im looking to do. Ill have to hunt for one of these. Do they have a mount on the rear for the bracket or did you have to fabricate something?
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Old 08-01-15, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by scale
And finally this one has taken me about 8 years.....mostly because im slow. 1963 Huffy Sportsman (Raleigh Sports). This thing is great but i cant get the shifting sorted. 2 and 3 work great but 1 just doesn't exist. ITs almost if the cable pulls right past it. IF the indicator is pulled to its max......i just sit and spin First gear is very hard to find. Lots of jiggling and hoping and i have tried everything. Its an AW. It sometimes goes in fine and other times there is nothing there. I am wondering if something inside is sticking. The rear wheel is wobbly. I wish i knew if the hub was junk too.....because at that point id just source another rear wheel. Id hate to lose my '63 stamp. I suppose i could rebuild it onto another rim. The only thing left on it is to polish the chain guard, and maybe scrap the grip shift for a trigger shift. I might throw some Kool Stops on it too. The John Bulls are a bit hard

Might just need a good cleaning. I put a bike on the repair stand, spray carburetor cleaner into the oil port and then spend a few minutes cranking the pedals while shifting the gears and letting it freewheel too. Stop with the oil port facing downward and place a rag directly under it. Open the oil port and let it drain. Repeat a couple of times and finish with an overnight draining. I personally use Tri-Flow to lube my hubs after cleaning them.

If that fails, open up the hub and inspect the pawls and springs as you take it apart. I would be most suspicious of the clutch thrust collar not sliding cleanly over the axle key. Axle keys can become damaged by shifting while the hub is under heavy pedal load.
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Old 08-01-15, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by scale
That is excellent. Thats just what im looking to do. Ill have to hunt for one of these. Do they have a mount on the rear for the bracket or did you have to fabricate something?
There is a mount on the back of the light for that purpose.
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Old 08-01-15, 10:18 PM
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What a beautiful bike. My first and favorite three speed is my 1963 black Huffy Sportsman. I bought it two years ago and have put a couple thousand miles on it. I too have the grip shift and while everyone else poo poos the grip shift, I just love mine. I find that I use my gears more with the grip because it is easier to shift. I have a 1958 Humber, 1964 Raleigh Sports, 1963 Hercules, 1971 Phillips, 1972 Triumph, and find my Huffeigh to be my most trusted steed. I put Kool stop brakes and a Brooks b67 saddle on mine. Both are a huge improvement over the mattress saddle and old brakes.
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Old 08-02-15, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by arex

I think the pedals are the newer, crappier non-rebuildable pedals, which is a shame because they're actually in really good shape for their age. I'd like to preserve them, if possible...if anyone has some tips on rebuilding the unrebuildable, I'm all ears.
I recently did an autopsy on a non-rebuildable Raleigh pedal. Alas and woe be upon us, the spindle is crimped in to the outer bearing cone rather than threaded. I am going to try using a grease needle to lubricate a couple sets of nice ones I have. I might have to drill a tiny hole in the outer cover to have a place to insert the needle
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Old 08-02-15, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Gasbag
I recently did an autopsy on a non-rebuildable Raleigh pedal. Alas and woe be upon us, the spindle is crimped in to the outer bearing cone rather than threaded. I am going to try using a grease needle to lubricate a couple sets of nice ones I have. I might have to drill a tiny hole in the outer cover to have a place to insert the needle
I wonder if using an AW hub oiling port cap would be a good way to plug the hole afterwards, even though that would necessitate making the hole bigger.
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Old 08-02-15, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by arex
I wonder if using an AW hub oiling port cap would be a good way to plug the hole afterwards, even though that would necessitate making the hole bigger.
A dab of clear silicone should do the job. I might try drilling the hole to the inside to make it less visible.
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Old 08-02-15, 09:15 AM
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A picture of my 1963 Rudge. Since the last time it was seen in this thread I have added a Prestube rack and a proper Rudge chain ring. The chain ring dropped it two teeth from 44 to 42.

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