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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 08-22-15, 01:16 PM
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Best way to remove blocks [pads] from DL-1 rod brakes?

Tried finding some insight w/o success on some of the DL-1 specific threads so Hi everybody...

...on this "most visited" of 3-speed threads!

~:~:~:~:~:~

I'm putting a 1976 loop frame DL-1 back on the road for a friend.

The rod brakes are in good shape and appear to have not been boogered up BUT I'm having some trouble finding an efficient way to remove the old blocks [pads] and install the Kool-Stops I have for it.

Using a vise, punch, and hammer I have been able to move the first pad I have tried working on out about 1/4 inch but it has been slow going.

Anyone got a shortcut for me?

Tx in advance!
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Old 08-22-15, 03:45 PM
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I have drilled out old Weinmann pads before. Depending on the composition of your DL-1 blocks, that might be possible.
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Old 08-22-15, 06:11 PM
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Thanks @Gasbag . I was worried about the chainguard clearance. This will be my next project. Also bought a set of salmon Kool Stops, so I'll be right there with you getting the pads swapped. I like the idea of drilling out a bunch of the pad material. Thanks for the tip @smontanaro. I figure If I can get the old pads out, I can forge the holders open a bit with a steel rod, set in the new pads and then crimp them in.

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Old 08-22-15, 07:46 PM
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When I replaced my pads I clamped the pad firmly in my bench vice leaving about 1/4" hanging out. Then I forced an awl in between the pad and holder and pried the holder off the pad. I opened up the holder slightly and used dish soap on the pad to help slide it in. Lightly crimped it to finish.
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Old 08-22-15, 08:32 PM
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@michaelz28 how does that Brooks B72 ride? Nice bike. Im thinking about moving to a brooks and im on the fence between the B72 and the 66
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Old 08-22-15, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by scale
@michaelz28 how does that Brooks B72 ride? Nice bike. Im thinking about moving to a brooks and im on the fence between the B72 and the 66
Get the B66. The springs will absorb road chatter and have been standard equipment on three speeds for a century.
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Old 08-23-15, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NormanF
Get the B66. The springs will absorb road chatter and have been standard equipment on three speeds for a century.
Second that.

The B72 is an excellent design but IMO it was meant as a cost shaving strategy for Brooks/Raleigh/TI.

There is a lot more metal in the springs of a B66.

But the proof is in the pudding as they say and I have ridden them both quite a bit and my arse recommends the B66 hands down.
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Old 08-23-15, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
of what ?? nice original paint ?
Yes! Wanted to post how gorgeous the paint was on this bike earlier, but my phone and tablet don't like this website much for some reason.
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Old 08-23-15, 04:23 PM
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Why doesn't this ever happen to me??? Like the color and the child seat as is!
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Old 08-23-15, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by scale
@michaelz28 how does that Brooks B72 ride? Nice bike. Im thinking about moving to a brooks and im on the fence between the B72 and the 66
i don't really ride it enough to give a valued opinion . the B72 is original to the bike and its not horrible so ride on ...but it sounds as the 66 is better for the long haul .
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Old 08-23-15, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by redfoxdogs
Yes! Wanted to post how gorgeous the paint was on this bike earlier, but my phone and tablet don't like this website much for some reason.
yea , this is a one owner original bike . they sold the original owner the house too . Horn , Wald basket , schwinn speedometer , and the baby seat . unfortunately , it lost most of it's Raleigh nuts as the accsesorys didn't leave much thread for the nut . its got its original cotters and nuts ibn perfect shape
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Old 08-23-15, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
IIRC, they're Imperial 10-32 thread, which is close enough to M5 to work reliably for this purpose.
Thanks! Maybe I'll pick up some actual 10-32 stainless bolts at the hardware store sometime.
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Old 08-23-15, 07:15 PM
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Hi everyone,

Here's the Sturmey-Archer rear reflector disassembled from the outside. Is there a way to take out the metal plate at the bottom, expose the bolt that attaches it to the fender, and replace that bolt with a shorter bolt? Or is the fender bolt somehow integrated with this plate?


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Old 08-23-15, 07:42 PM
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It looks like the bolt is integral to the plate. You might want to try threading the nut all the way to the base of the bolt, cut off the amount you want, and then unthreading the nut over the cut portion to chase the burr off.
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Old 08-24-15, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by arex
Any problems with solder adhesion, or did the cable soak it right up?
I clean mine and use flux, never have a problem getting the solder to stick. For cleaning I use something along the lines of Acetone, MEK or Tolulene to strip the grease and oil out.

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Old 08-24-15, 07:26 PM
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Thanks - I haven't cut a bolt before and I'm concerned about messing it up. Maybe I should practice on another bolt first!

Originally Posted by Gasbag
It looks like the bolt is integral to the plate. You might want to try threading the nut all the way to the base of the bolt, cut off the amount you want, and then unthreading the nut over the cut portion to chase the burr off.
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Old 09-05-15, 03:47 PM
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I have another little project I'm working on and bought a 28" coaster brake wheel today. It's stamped Bayliss Wiley 36/12. There's not much info out there but it's in remarkably clean condition. It even had a new tire on it.
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Old 09-05-15, 04:33 PM
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Cool! You remind me that I picked up a wheel some time back that a neighbor had tossed to the curb. I trash picked it for the New Departure single-speed, coaster brake hub. Never did get around to putting it back together after disassembly and cleaning. I plan to religiously follow my copy of Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual.
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Old 09-05-15, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Cool! You remind me that I picked up a wheel some time back that a neighbor had tossed to the curb. I trash picked it for the New Departure single-speed, coaster brake hub. Never did get around to putting it back together after disassembly and cleaning. I plan to religiously follow my copy of Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual.
I'm glad to see this forum coming back to life. it was quiet for quite a while.
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Old 09-05-15, 07:15 PM
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It has been quiet too long so... I'll post some pics of a bike I've had for a long time, but just got back on the road today. It's an oddball Sports badged Royal Scot. AW hub date 64. I Kept this one because it's a 23" frame. Seems to be all original. It has a 46t chainwheel and a 18t cog. There was enough adjustment in the dropout to use the current chain, so I put a 19t cog in since I had it apart anyway. I'm happy with the gearing. Notice the chainstay. It looks like somebody set it on an anvil and gave it a couple whacks with a hammer to gain more clearance behind the ring. From the look of the paint, I think this was done at the factory. It is the type of thing I can see them doing. Hmmm, this one's a little short to the top of the bottom bracket. Wham, wham. There ya go, all better.
there. not backwards!
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Old 09-05-15, 07:22 PM
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I had a Royal Scot in the fleet for a while. Interestingly, it was quite a bit lighter than the stock Raleigh Sports, particularly the fenders, which just seemed made from a lighter gauge steel.
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Old 09-05-15, 09:59 PM
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You're the first person I've found that ever heard of them. I did find some images on Google. The few there all have the two tone seats. They sure didn't design these seats for 180 pound guys. My weight compresses the springs half way so I get this weird floating feeling rolling down the road.
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Old 09-05-15, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
It has been quiet too long so... I'll post some pics of a bike I've had for a long time, but just got back on the road today. It's an oddball Sports badged Royal Scot. AW hub date 64. I Kept this one because it's a 23" frame. Seems to be all original. It has a 46t chainwheel and a 18t cog. There was enough adjustment in the dropout to use the current chain, so I put a 19t cog in since I had it apart anyway. I'm happy with the gearing. Notice the chainstay. It looks like somebody set it on an anvil and gave it a couple whacks with a hammer to gain more clearance behind the ring. From the look of the paint, I think this was done at the factory. It is the type of thing I can see them doing. Hmmm, this one's a little short to the top of the bottom bracket. Wham, wham. There ya go, all better.
there. not backwards!
Good lookin' bike.
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Old 09-06-15, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
I have another little project I'm working on and bought a 28" coaster brake wheel today. It's stamped Bayliss Wiley 36/12. There's not much info out there but it's in remarkably clean condition. It even had a new tire on it.
Someone at work gave me this old Raleigh frame and I thought I'd put a quick 3 speed Path Racer together from some spare parts i have in the shed. I stopped in to see George at Parts Unknown yesterday for a new (vintage) Raleigh crank set
and spotted an interesting coaster brake wheel that I bought. I can't find too much info on the Bayliss Wiley company but it would suggest the wheel is quite old.The bike is coming along and I just need a few things to finish it off. The hub has a nice metal oil port as well. The front wheel is a 26" SA rim but may swap out for a 28" if I find one.
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Last edited by gster; 09-06-15 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 09-06-15, 06:48 AM
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Here's a mid 60's CCM Galaxie 3 Speed for sale on Kijiji here in Toronto with the SA throttle shifter. A lot of bike for $135.00!
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Last edited by gster; 09-06-15 at 06:52 AM.
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