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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 09-06-15, 10:03 AM
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[QUOTE=gster;18141986]Here's a mid 60's CCM Galaxie 3 Speed for sale on Kijiji here in Toronto with the SA throttle shifter. A lot of bike for $135.00!


Sweet, except for those saddles which should be banned under the Geneva conventions on torture.



We had a 1940 CCM roll into the shop in beautiful condition and it had one of these saddles which got changed out right off... there is not much cushion under that cover.

It's new owner is going to replace the coaster wheel with a new SA 3 speed / coaster.
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Old 09-06-15, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by gster;
Here's a mid 60's CCM Galaxie 3 Speed for sale on Kijiji here in Toronto with the SA throttle shifter.
CCM's stamped headbadges gave way to stickers in 1965, date codes on CCM bicycles are not hard to interpret either as there is very good information on them.

One of the pre-eminent collectors of CCM bicycles lives here and much of his work has helped provide this.
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Old 09-06-15, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
Four speed might disqualify it from inclusion in this thread.

Moulton 4 Speed Vintage English Bicycle Archer

Moulton 4 Speed Vintage English Bicycle Archer - $495 (Ashland) < >







condition: good


Made in England.
Has some wear & scratches to paint finish.
May have some shifting issues.
I'm not quite sure of the operation of the Archer shifter.
Otherwise overall good condition for its age.
Rides nice.
$495.00 obo
Email, text or call Kenny show contact info (cel).
I think this gets a pass...
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Old 09-06-15, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
CCM's stamped headbadges gave way to stickers in 1965, date codes on CCM bicycles are not hard to interpret either as there is very good information on them.

One of the pre-eminent collectors of CCM bicycles lives here and much of his work has helped provide this.
This is the chart I use.
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Old 09-06-15, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
I'd go for the Delta Cruisers. They are fine for crushed gravel, and I ride them regularly on other non-paved surfaces. While I thought the ride quality of the Col de la Vie were better than Delta Cruisers, the lack of decent puncture protection meant that I ended up fixing flats more often than I should for a "city" bike. If only Panaracer made a Pasela in 590 size...

And yeah, cream Delta Cruisers can get "dirty" but not as bad as some people think. And if you have steel rims, you don't have to worry so much about brake dust dirtying the wheels. This pic is from Saturday, and it's hard to tell that the Delta Cruisers are dirty, you'd have to get pretty close to tell.

You know I am a huge fan of these tyres, they suit a vintage bicycle in the aesthetic department and have those nice modern touches like scotchlite and kevlar to makes one's ride a little safer and more reliable.
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Old 09-06-15, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
You know I am a huge fan of these tyres, they suit a vintage bicycle in the aesthetic department and have those nice modern touches like scotchlite and kevlar to makes one's ride a little safer and more reliable.
Oh I know you are!

If/when the cream ones wear out, I might consider getting the Delta Cruisers in "gumwall". Wish they also did the brown/terra cotta color in Delta Cruisers as well, that would be nice.
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Old 09-06-15, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I have another little project I'm working on and bought a 28" coaster brake wheel today. It's stamped Bayliss Wiley 36/12. There's not much info out there but it's in remarkably clean condition. It even had a new tire on it.
I've done a little research and the Bayliss, Wiley Co. was taken over by Perry at some point. The numbers stamped on the hub 36/14 refer to the number of holes and the spoke gauge.
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Old 09-06-15, 07:05 PM
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Bayliss Wiley was making cottered bottom brackets for Raleigh road bikes into the early 70s, so was it just the hub division that Perry took over?
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Old 09-06-15, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Bayliss Wiley was making cottered bottom brackets for Raleigh road bikes into the early 70s, so was it just the hub division that Perry took over?
Makes sense, never seen a Perry spindle. Perry's were great, until they weren't. Some Achilles heel in them apparently, I've seen lots of them in parts drawers and very few on functioning bikes. An early BW version is very cool.
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Old 09-06-15, 10:35 PM
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Needing some help finding handlebars. We recently purchased a couple of Raleigh Twentys. The 1971 has swept back ape hanger like bars while the 1975 has bars that are closer to straight.the stems look to be the same. I prefer the ape hanger bars because the rise and swept back grip are far more comfortable for my musician's carpal tunnel. I've read that the size is unusual and you can't get them. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-06-15, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
Makes sense, never seen a Perry spindle. Perry's were great, until they weren't. Some Achilles heel in them apparently, I've seen lots of them in parts drawers and very few on functioning bikes. An early BW version is very cool.
From the interweb:

The Bayliss-Wiley Company was located in Tyseley, Birmingham, England and was founded by Cecil Bayliss and Arthur Wiley in 1919.The company had what we would call today a niche marlet; they produced inexpensive but high quality bicycle components. Bayliss-Wiley kept the British working man on the road, back in the day when the bicycle was often the only form of transport for the working class.
They primarily made hubs, single speed freewheels, and bottom brackets; the parts that wore out and needed regular replacement. The company thrived through the 1920s, 30s and 40s, but not surprisingly declined in the late 1950s, when the British working man abandoned the bicycle and started buying cars for the first time.
Taken over by Reynold Chains Ltd., the Bayliss-Wiley name finally disappeared in 1969. One of the most recognizable brand names when I started cycling in the 1950s, but not too many of today's generation will have heard of Bayliss-Wiley even in the UK.
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Old 09-07-15, 06:42 AM
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Found this Perry hub on a 1950s Schwinn. I was surprised to see an English hub, but the rim looks original to the bike.
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Old 09-07-15, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by redfoxdogs
Needing some help finding handlebars. We recently purchased a couple of Raleigh Twentys. The 1971 has swept back ape hanger like bars while the 1975 has bars that are closer to straight.the stems look to be the same. I prefer the ape hanger bars because the rise and swept back grip are far more comfortable for my musician's carpal tunnel. I've read that the size is unusual and you can't get them. Any suggestions?
Photos...the ivory 1971 has the handlebars we like!

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Old 09-07-15, 09:49 AM
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Also...here is a link to a site that shows how my neighbor is making a "new" Raleigh out of an old one for me!

John's Bicycle Restorations
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Old 09-07-15, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by redfoxdogs
Also...here is a link to a site that shows how my neighbor is making a "new" Raleigh out of an old one for me!

John's Bicycle Restorations
Nice! Any particular reason for the repaint? The original paint looks pretty good.
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Old 09-07-15, 11:49 AM
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Perry hubs are very efficient when they are going as they are very smooth, when it comes to stopping they are better described as speed attenuators.

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Old 09-07-15, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Perry hubs are very efficient when they are going as they are very smooth, when it comes to stopping they are better described as speed attenuators.

I would agree.
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Old 09-07-15, 12:53 PM
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The paint did look good in most places, but there were also some bad spots. The gouges look particularly bad against the ivory paint. Would be acceptable to me if the bike was green or coffee. This bike is a substitute for an all new bike and will be my main bike for awhile so I wanted it to look nice. The ivory twenty is a notch better and will stay as is.
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Old 09-07-15, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Perry hubs are very efficient when they are going as they are very smooth, when it comes to stopping they are better described as speed attenuators.

Last post on this one until I find a 28" front wheel and mini fender. I'll probably add a front caliper brake as well (recommended). The saddle is a well worn and broken in leather, Japanese Speedic. Total cost of this project is about $60.00 Canadian so about $45.00 U.S. Please ignore the rabid cat in the background.
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Old 09-07-15, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Last post on this one until I find a 28" front wheel and mini fender. I'll probably add a front caliper brake as well (recommended). The saddle is a well worn and broken in leather, Japanese Speedic. Total cost of this project is about $60.00 Canadian so about $45.00 U.S. Please ignore the rabid cat in the background.
I ran a Perry hub on my 1951 CCM, with a front brake.

It was a really nice set up.
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Old 09-07-15, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
I ran a Perry hub on my 1951 CCM, with a front brake.

It was a really nice set up.
I'm going to give it a go next weekend.
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Old 09-07-15, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I'm going to give it a go next weekend.
Before I installed the front brake I got cut off by a car and broad sided it... I was running a modern coaster brake on a different wheel and was able to lock up the rear but that still wasn't enough.

After I replaced my fork and installed a front brake I went back and measured the stopping distance using the front brake as the skid marks were still etched on the road... had I been running that I never would have hit the car.

I use this as a cautionary tale when the hipsters roll into the shop and tell me they don't need a front brake and any coaster equipped bike we can add a front brake to gets one.

Now the CCM runs a fixed wheel with a front brake... it stops on a dime.

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Old 09-08-15, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Before I installed the front brake I got cut off by a car and broad sided it... I was running a modern coaster brake on a different wheel and was able to lock up the rear but that still wasn't enough.

After I replaced my fork and installed a front brake I went back and measured the stopping distance using the front brake as the skid marks were still etched on the road... had I been running that I never would have hit the car.

I use this as a cautionary tale when the hipsters roll into the shop and tell me they don't need a front brake and any coaster equipped bike we can add a front brake to gets one.

Now the CCM runs a fixed wheel with a front brake... it stops on a dime.


Good advice. The frame came with a Tektro brake on the back. I was going to put it on the front but the bolt was too short. I'll work on it next weekend

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Old 09-08-15, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by redfoxdogs
Also...here is a link to a site that shows how my neighbor is making a "new" Raleigh out of an old one for me!

John's Bicycle Restorations
It is fun to do a frame up, like new restoration. I usually use bikes that were destined for the dump for this. Here's my latest. Missing the rear wheel though. That could be a hang up. Raleigh rims tend to be expensive and I would need to match the front since it's in surprisingly good shape.
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Old 09-08-15, 07:17 AM
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Wow, what a nice job Sixty. Very sharp bike there!
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