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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 10-25-15, 05:56 AM
  #8376  
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Nice work! Much classier than a drop bolt. I agree, a tube would look far better than the original plate. So...the 20 will be getting a new paint job. I knew she didn't like the look of the frame as it was. What color? This looks like a fun project to follow. Post pics!
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Old 10-25-15, 06:32 AM
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50! Toasted to your longevity with a Belgian white wheat from Blue Moons.

Many happy years, miles and posts wished for you, Sixty fiver !

I still remember that age...

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Old 10-25-15, 06:36 AM
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+1 on the nice work....just a dumb engineering question though: never understood why the plates are so "high" (ie. vertically wide) as they are on most bikes - could you not also use the plate but cut an arc out of the bottom?

I do agree a curved bridge will be soooo much classier.
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Old 10-25-15, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
50! Toasted to your longevity with a Belgian white wheat from Blue Moons.

Many happy years, miles and posts wished for you, Sixty fiver !

I still remember that age...
I too toasted your 50th (oh to be young again - )....couldn't get to my normal local so drank a pint of Boddington's instead. Happy Birthday!
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Old 10-25-15, 08:02 AM
  #8380  
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Off topic, but I have been noticing that all the craigslist links recently are linking to the german language (de) site with https errors. Anybody else seeing this?
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Old 10-25-15, 08:22 AM
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Pretty little bike, resonably priced. Looks all original. Hope somebody can use this one.

1960 ladies 3 speed phillips
1960 ladies 3 speed phillips - $68 (chester)




Rides good
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Old 10-25-15, 08:23 AM
  #8382  
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Originally Posted by tbo
Off topic, but I have been noticing that all the craigslist links recently are linking to the german language (de) site with https errors. Anybody else seeing this?
No, not here. Perhaps your DNS settings have been highjacked?

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...jacking%20test
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Old 10-25-15, 08:25 AM
  #8383  
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Ooops! Deleted.

Meant to post this one in the non-3-speed CL thread.

Last edited by thumpism; 10-25-15 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 10-25-15, 10:23 AM
  #8384  
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Originally Posted by gster
Yet Another 3 Speed!
Picked this one up the other day for $50.00.

1971 Eaton's Glider.
Not sure what I'm going to to with it.
The Good
-Tall frame/good paint
-rims and hubs
-brake calipers
-trigger
-new chain
-seat ok.

The Bad
-tires are shot/new tubes
-crank arm/chain ring bent
-pedals
-low end brake levers
-no fenders

For the time being, I've put a somewhat rare Torpedo Duomatic Kickback hub on it just to check it out.
You never know what kind of shenanigans (sorry for the harsh language) have gone on with a 45 year bike.
I knew this bike had one bent crank when I got it. I didn't know the bent crank was also 1/2" longer than the other one...

The chain ring was also warped but the frame itself seems to be fine and the hub appears to be unmolested. Some of the better parts have migrated over to other projects in need of finishing and I've put the Torpedo 2 speed kick back hub on it just to check it out....
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Old 10-25-15, 11:09 AM
  #8385  
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Originally Posted by markk900
+1 on the nice work....just a dumb engineering question though: never understood why the plates are so "high" (ie. vertically wide) as they are on most bikes - could you not also use the plate but cut an arc out of the bottom?

I do agree a curved bridge will be soooo much classier.
I didn't think of that! Checking again, The hole for the brake on the plate is fairly low, cutting out an arc on the bottom would remove too much material, IMO. Note how there's a stamping to add material in a plane that would stiffen the brake. The Raleigh 20 was a mass produced bike, some good engineering went into it, IMO. This is one example of an inexpensively made stamped steel part that holds not only the brake, but a fender as well. The two holes on the top held a Pletscher style rack. You can see the two places where the welds once were. Another inexpensive, but cost effective touch.



The curved brake bridge idea came up immediately as I had shown Velocivixen my fender bridge evolution. It looks very nice, IMO, and isn't nearly as hard as it seems.
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Old 10-25-15, 11:15 AM
  #8386  
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I won't be using the original fenders, nor the original Pletscher rack on this bike, so I'm so happy for these mods. I do like the original color the way it looked when new (forks still look new in spots), but the rest of the bike paint has faded and look dull despite polishing compound, wax, etc.

Color will depend. I always liked the bronze green that Raleigh used. It will also depend what the local shop has in stock. They charge around $80 to special order colors. Who knows I might do a vivid magenta or sparkle vivid turquoise.
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Old 10-25-15, 12:39 PM
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The curved tubular bridge is very slick. That's going to look great. I also like the idea of a vivid, wild color. I think bright colors, sparkle, candy apple and showy paints like hot rodders use on their cars would look nice on a small bike like this.
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Old 10-25-15, 04:04 PM
  #8388  
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help identifying this raleigh

Hey there my papa got given this Raleigh bike and I was wondering what kind it was? And if they are common and have any value? Thank you.
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Old 10-25-15, 05:48 PM
  #8389  
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Went on a nice little ride yesterday aptly named "Another Lap Around the Sun"... it was mostly IGH equipped bikes from different eras.

I took the Moulton... figured I should ride a bike that was as old as me.



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Old 10-25-15, 07:15 PM
  #8390  
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That's a very cool 1963 DL-1 roadster. I have a 1973 and in some ways it's my favorite bike. It has a couple of things I haven't seen before that may or may not be original. Usually, DL-1s with this hockey stick chainguard have the heron chainwheel. This one has the plain Raleigh chainwheel and a mount for an enclosed chaincase. I have never seen a small decal like this one on the downtube. Dollar value...not much, but it has mojo in spades. Nice find.
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Old 10-25-15, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RURAIDHBROWN
Hey there my papa got given this Raleigh bike and I was wondering what kind it was? And if they are common and have any value? Thank you.
I agree with Big Chief. As is, not worth much, the seat is good. You could put some sweat equity into it and it would be a nice bike. Some hard work and $50.00 (30 pounds) would probably get it back on the road. A good cleaning, repack the bearings, new tubes/tyres and a new chain.
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Old 10-25-15, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I agree with Big Chief. As is, not worth much, the seat is good. You could put some sweat equity into it and it would be a nice bike. Some hard work and $50.00 (30 pounds) would probably get it back on the road. A good cleaning, repack the bearings, new tubes/tyres and a new chain.
Thank you Big Chief and gster. The bike looks great in the picture once finished
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Old 10-26-15, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RURAIDHBROWN
Thank you Big Chief and gster. The bike looks great in the picture once finished
After looking at your photos again I realize that I was a little light on my cost of $50.00. It looks like you need a new shifter cable ($8.00) plus some $ for supplies/tools. The Dynohub is a nice feature as is the battery pack. When you account for your time to restore you'll never make any profit should you sell. As others on this site have said previously, these bikes were built to last.
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Old 10-26-15, 06:18 AM
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Personally, I would be thrilled to find this old DL-1 in this condition. True, I would never be compensated in terms of money for the time and effort I would put into it, but the result of bringing this beautiful, classic old roadster back to life would be more than enough payment for me. From what I can tell from the pictures, the cost of repairing this bike would be modest and you would end up with a very, very nice bike.
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Old 10-26-15, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Personally, I would be thrilled to find this old DL-1 in this condition. True, I would never be compensated in terms of money for the time and effort I would put into it, but the result of bringing this beautiful, classic old roadster back to life would be more than enough payment for me. From what I can tell from the pictures, the cost of repairing this bike would be modest and you would end up with a very, very nice bike.
The bike is very nice. Will need to get it out this weekend and give it a clean then take some more picture. I don't know if I should get it fixed up or sell it as a project. I really do like these old bikes and stuff but don't know the first thing about bikes when it comes to fixing them up.
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Old 10-26-15, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RURAIDHBROWN
The bike is very nice. Will need to get it out this weekend and give it a clean then take some more picture. I don't know if I should get it fixed up or sell it as a project. I really do like these old bikes and stuff but don't know the first thing about bikes when it comes to fixing them up.
Pretty much everything you need to know has been discussed on this site (probably more than once). There are also some good tutorials on Youtube as well. If you live in Britain parts should be easy to locate. I agree with Big Chief (again), it's a great bike and well worth the time to fix up.
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Old 11-02-15, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Really sweet... we don't see full chain cases and battery cases very often.
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Old 11-02-15, 09:55 AM
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Happy belated birthday, @Sixty Fiver!
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Old 11-02-15, 10:00 AM
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Boring but Potentially Helpful
The front brake on this one was feeling "crunchy" and binding with no obvious signs as to why.

I pulled the cable apart and measured the casing against an original one and found it to be 2-3 inches longer than it should have been. I trimmed the excess, re installed and it seems fine now.

Not sure where these bars originally came from but I quit like them for around the city.
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Old 11-02-15, 11:23 AM
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@gster - great looking bikes!

So @gugie agreed to do some welding work for me on my 1971 Raleigh Twenty. I'm using modern brakes and the rear one wouldn't reach the rim (Tektro R559), so wanted the rear brake bridge plate moved down. The plate serves 3 purposes; brake bridge, fender mount and original rack mount. I am using a modern rack, so he suggested using those eyelets for mounting racks on the seat stays, then using a normal piece for the brake bridge. I also had him remove the chain guard attatchment piece since I am not using the chain guard. Of course now it will really need painting.
Raleigh Twenty Brake Bridge by velocivixen, on Flickr
R20 New Bridge by velocivixen, on Flickr
Rack Eyelets R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr
Here's a photo of @gugie doing the final touches.
Mark's Final Touches by velocivixen, on Flickr

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