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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 05-04-16, 03:59 PM
  #10376  
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Got this neat little RSW today, other then the odd peddles its all there and has a basket i usaly dont see on them on the front.
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Old 05-04-16, 04:26 PM
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^ Total cool.
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Old 05-04-16, 04:59 PM
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Cotter War.
So I could not wait. Had some more daylight left and the back hasn't killed me yet so I took it to the shed vise.

It broke the vise. Defiantly off to the LBS tomorrow!

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Old 05-04-16, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
@Loose Chain I should also mention that, if you want to stay on the cheap. Since the fixed cup is LH threaded, you can just use a big bolt and whatever washers you need to get it tight on the cup and use a big breaker bar to tighten the nut until the cup breaks free. Just the friction of the washers on the cup is enough to hold it. This works, but BikeSmith's tool is better. Cleaning out the BB with the fixed cup still in place is an even better method IMO.

Thank you for the info, appreciated.


Soooo, those Denaults, the front axle, is it the same as that of a Raleigh?

Not having removed a cotter yet. But I would be tempted to use something along the lines of the clamp method and then while under tension, tap the end of the crank adjacent the BB with a heavy brass rod driven by a hammer smartly. This works on my Jeep when parts refuse to part company. On the Jeep I dispense with the brass rod and just use a hammer . But there is no chrome down there to worry over like on a cottered crank.

My second method would be to employ my 4X rivet gun (or air hammer) to the brass drift directly to the cotter (with nut in place).

As you can see, I am planning my attack. Working on Plan C now above being A and B!

Last edited by Loose Chain; 05-04-16 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 05-04-16, 07:08 PM
  #10380  
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The best advice on cotter pins is to buy the Bikesmith press, a small torch, and a bottle of Kano Kroil.

Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Cotter War.
So I could not wait. Had some more daylight left and the back hasn't killed me yet so I took it to the shed vise.

It broke the vise. Defiantly off to the LBS tomorrow!
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Old 05-04-16, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
The best advice on cotter pins is to buy the Bikesmith press, a small torch, and a bottle of Kano Kroil.
You left out the beer !

I am in agreement on the Bikesmith press.
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Old 05-04-16, 08:20 PM
  #10382  
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
The best advice on cotter pins is to buy the Bikesmith press, a small torch, and a bottle of Kano Kroil.
+1

And your beverage of choice...
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Old 05-04-16, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
This little darling followed me home today - for $60!
Originally Posted by arex
Aonther one???
Is it time for an intervention?
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Old 05-04-16, 08:52 PM
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Did a little "gravel grinding" tonight on my DL-1, exploring the Bruce Vento Wildlife Sanctuary. Of course, these old roadsters were made for this.

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Old 05-04-16, 09:40 PM
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What a classy bike and I love your pictures.
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Old 05-04-16, 11:36 PM
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I have a Park Tool Cotter Press that works well also. Never had a problem so far, although I typically let them soak overnight with penetrating oil as a frustration preventative.
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Old 05-05-16, 12:45 AM
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I just use my work bench vise and a socket to remove the pins. works pretty good. if stiff and wont go. a small bit of heating makes it pop
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Old 05-05-16, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
This little darling followed me home today - for $60! Has Sturmey ARcher AW rear 3-speed and G6 front Dynohub, both dated 1973. This bike has surface rust and when I spin the rear wheel hear screeching horrible noise! This will be a project. Apparently the light works, but doesn't work when I spin the front wheel.
Looks like a fun project. I hope you take the time to post your progress. I enjoy seeing other people's projects as well as doing my own.
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Old 05-05-16, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
What a classy bike and I love your pictures.
Thanks, Chief. These two hobbies, cycling and photography, really compliment each other. And I get to take "trophies" home from every ride.

Almost through preppin' for Pepin, I weighed this bike the other day: 48 lbs with empty bags and water bottle. It's quite a load to lift onto the rear carrier. When it's packed with all my gear, I expect it will weigh about 56 - 60 or so. I've already resigned myself to the fact that I will be walking some of the steepest hills - the frame geometry doesn't encourage standing out of the saddle on steep grades - and even if it did, that would be asking an awful lot from the old Sturmey Archer.
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Old 05-05-16, 07:37 AM
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What would be an appropriate drink carrier for a late '30s roadster? Ideally, I'd like to be able to carry my Dunkin coffee with me without needing to ride one-handed, or using one of the modern-looking Origin8 ring-style coffee cup holders.
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Old 05-05-16, 09:45 AM
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Cotter mission accomplished!

Took the frame over to the friendly LBS and put the cotter in the jig. Tightened it on down, nothing. Went to look for the cheater bar for the last few turns. POP, happy and relieved am I. Did not want to go through another drill out.

Putting the old crank away and cleaning up the really good condition BB. This is an early 60's Rudge so everything is Raleigh stamped.

Size 22" Hi-Ten steel frame ready to hang the parts. Must go find an appropriate single crankset.
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Old 05-05-16, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
This little darling followed me home today - for $60! Has Sturmey ARcher AW rear 3-speed and G6 front Dynohub, both dated 1973. This bike has surface rust and when I spin the rear wheel hear screeching horrible noise! This will be a project. Apparently the light works, but doesn't work when I spin the front wheel.
I agree, for $60, how can you resist the lure of a Twenty? The dyno lighting is a real find, and I'm sure with a little looking you can source the red tail light lens. I finally got my own 1969 folder sorted out with new alloy rims and a chrome rear basket that complements the fenders and Wald chainguard. After much chain fiddling and addition of a 1/2 link, I restored the hub to a stock 15T cog (someone had installed an 18T) and am very pleased with the ultra-zippy performance of this little machine. The dropouts are a snug fit for the flatted hub axle, but I installed new antirotation washers anyway. And the Brooks mattress saddle turns out to be very comfortable with a bonus of looking " period correct". Braking is much better with the alloy rims, but I ordered some Kool Stop Continental pads and expect they will be a worthwhile improvement.

IMAG1004 by w1gfh, on Flickr

IMAG1016 by w1gfh, on Flickr

IMAG1013 by w1gfh, on Flickr

IMAG1070 by w1gfh, on Flickr
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Old 05-05-16, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
What would be an appropriate drink carrier for a late '30s roadster? Ideally, I'd like to be able to carry my Dunkin coffee with me without needing to ride one-handed, or using one of the modern-looking Origin8 ring-style coffee cup holders.
If you look back a few messages, you will see my DL-1 with a water bottle mounted on the handlebar. I've used the Velo Orange Retro Cage MkII (no tab), with the handlebar bracket.

VO Retro Cage MKII, no tab - Water Bottles & Cages - Accessories

VO Handlebar to Bottle Cage Mount - Water Bottles & Cages - Accessories

That should do the trick.
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Old 05-05-16, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Cotter mission accomplished!

Took the frame over to the friendly LBS and put the cotter in the jig. Tightened it on down, nothing. Went to look for the cheater bar for the last few turns. POP, happy and relieved am I. Did not want to go through another drill out.

Putting the old crank away and cleaning up the really good condition BB. This is an early 60's Rudge so everything is Raleigh stamped.

Size 22" Hi-Ten steel frame ready to hang the parts. Must go find an appropriate single crankset.
I think either one of these traditional cranks would look nice on the Rudge.
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Old 05-05-16, 11:42 AM
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Here are a few before & after photos. I don't have a "keeper", so obviously didn't separate the armature from the magnet, and there is rust between the two. i used a dremel with stainless bristle brush to get the light rust off the outside of everything, even going as far as pushing the magnet/armature slightly higher/lower and brushing off the rust. When I spin the wheel now it makes a scratchy noise and it's not the bearings. Do you think that the rust causing friction between the two will resolve after awhile? If not, I have two other GH6's - one is "free" in a box & the other is laced to a Raleigh normal sized rim.
Sturmey ARcher GH6 Dynohub by velocivixen, on FlickrGH6 Magnet & Armature by velocivixen, on Flickr
Magnet & Armature GH6 by velocivixen, on Flickr
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Old 05-05-16, 12:01 PM
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My Dynohub was in similar condition with a gritty feel when rotated. I used very fine sandpaper between the armature and the magnet and a lot of WD40, and that seemed to work.
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Old 05-05-16, 12:25 PM
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Lake Pepin 3-speed tour comin' up!!
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Old 05-05-16, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I think either one of these traditional cranks would look nice on the Rudge.
That is the direction I need to head in. Between the two, I would have to go with the hand! Maybe I can find one of the cranks with the detachable ring.
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Old 05-05-16, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by PatrickZ
My Dynohub was in similar condition with a gritty feel when rotated. I used very fine sandpaper between the armature and the magnet and a lot of WD40, and that seemed to work.
Thanks. I may disassemble & try that.

Right now I've bent both cotters and despite having the non drive side off and lock right and adjustable cup removed I'm afraid to go further with the bent cotter on the drive side. I let penetrating oil work overnight, whacked it with a rubber mallet to help crack up the gunk holding things stuck. I'll have to research how to get that cotter out without having to drill. I have replacement cotters from Mark Stonich, but won't be threaded for the raleigh nuts.
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Old 05-05-16, 02:08 PM
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Drilling, anything but the drilling !

Good luck
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