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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 05-27-16, 02:20 PM
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Nice Rudge. Interesting it's got the white "wheelbarrow" hand grips instead of the "torpedo" or "Dare" style. FWIW, I like all 3 styles.
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Old 05-27-16, 03:03 PM
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I put this on the ISO thread, but thought I might get a result here.

I am looking for a dust cap for a Raleigh Sports pedal. The outside end of the pedal (where the dust cap would be) is threaded. This is a 1970 Sports, so the pedals are pre-CPSC. The pedal axle is good, so a left side pedal with a bent axle would be OK as well.
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Old 05-27-16, 04:16 PM
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My local bike shop has a 1950s Rudge with chaincase, fork lock, Dynamo in the rear hub. The paint is a gorgeous maroon. The asking price is low, but the shop owner doesn't know how to market it. I'm afraid to mention the price here. I don't need this bike, so I'd like to see it land in the right hands. Any interest?
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Old 05-27-16, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
I put this on the ISO thread, but thought I might get a result here.

I am looking for a dust cap for a Raleigh Sports pedal. The outside end of the pedal (where the dust cap would be) is threaded. This is a 1970 Sports, so the pedals are pre-CPSC. The pedal axle is good, so a left side pedal with a bent axle would be OK as well.
Not that it matters but I think it's pre-70's, at least the pedal. No reflectors which started showing up in 68-69. I may have a single pedal in the stash. Get back to you.
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Old 05-28-16, 09:46 AM
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Looks like an early- or mid-1960s-era pedal. I had a '64 Dawn with the same pedals. Be sure to go over the bearings and cup/cone on the end of that pedal. The missing dust cap lets in moisture and dirt, so you may need to clean the bearings out.

Originally Posted by dweenk
I put this on the ISO thread, but thought I might get a result here.

I am looking for a dust cap for a Raleigh Sports pedal. The outside end of the pedal (where the dust cap would be) is threaded. This is a 1970 Sports, so the pedals are pre-CPSC. The pedal axle is good, so a left side pedal with a bent axle would be OK as well.
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Old 05-28-16, 05:00 PM
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Welcome Back Cotter!
I picked up an inexpensive Raleigh built Glider frame today with the intention of a quick tidy up, bearing repack etc. I've got another former student looking for some cheap transportation and have some spare wheels etc to put it on the road for $60.00 or so.

Sadly, I've encountered the most stubborn cotter pin in the history of mankind! Even George's vintage cotter pin press would not make it budge!

I 'll try again tomorrow but may just, leave it or replace the spindle and arm, we'll see....
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Old 05-28-16, 07:22 PM
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At least it's the NDS crank. It's much easier to drill than VVs drive side crank was with the chain wheel in the way. I would let it soak in a hydraulic oil/acetone mix overnight before trying to press it out again. If it stays stuck, a drill press would make short work of drilling it out.
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Old 05-28-16, 07:40 PM
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@slowtostart

The Carradice does look like a canvas shaving bag with flap. It is a but classier than that sounds, but it is still simple.

The Banjo Brothers is a barrel-shaped black canvas bag with plastic inner shell. I like both.
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Old 05-28-16, 07:49 PM
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Does anyone know of any puncture resistant roadster tires that are available in black without reflective sidewalls? Does such a thing exist? I don't feel like creme colored tires are right for my bike
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Old 05-28-16, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
At least it's the NDS crank. It's much easier to drill than VVs drive side crank was with the chain wheel in the way. I would let it soak in a hydraulic oil/acetone mix overnight before trying to press it out again. If it stays stuck, a drill press would make short work of drilling it out.
It's soaking overnight. Thanks
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Old 05-28-16, 09:35 PM
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Can anyone tell me the number and size of ball bearings that go in the headset of a Dunelt?

They seem to have had no grease in them at all and so upon removing the headset, even carefully they scattered about to the four winds .

I am contemplating having this bike powder coated, the paint is rough and the decals, well, maybe I can have some made.

J
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Old 05-29-16, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Loose Chain
Can anyone tell me the number and size of ball bearings that go in the headset of a Dunelt?

They seem to have had no grease in them at all and so upon removing the headset, even carefully they scattered about to the four winds .

I am contemplating having this bike powder coated, the paint is rough and the decals, well, maybe I can have some made.

J
More than likely, your Dunelt was made in Nottingham by Raleigh and is one of the rebranded Sports type bikes so common here.
So would have the same 25 5/32" bearings like any other Raleigh. I know the Dunelt brand goes way back and they made motorcycles and bicycles on their own, but the name was bought out by Raleigh at some point. I'm not sure when. Every Dunelt I've ever seen was a Nottingham bike.
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Old 05-29-16, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
@slowtostart

The Carradice does look like a canvas shaving bag with flap. It is a but classier than that sounds, but it is still simple.

The Banjo Brothers is a barrel-shaped black canvas bag with plastic inner shell. I like both.
I did not mean to offend with my description. A quick search discovered few pictures, but the bag doesn't look that difficult to construct. It's a cylinder with a zipper sewn in the seam. A flap then covers the zipper. I there any other feature inside the bag?

My classic and vintage sewing machines can sew through heavy canvas and leather. I have a couple of old duffle bags made of very heavy canvas. Color is limited, but the fabric is a good weight!
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Old 05-29-16, 08:57 AM
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L'il Demon!
An overnight soaking yielded no results on the stuck cotter pin. An hour of concentrated drilling and hammering finally got it out with minimal damage to the crank. Most of these pins come out like butter but every once in a while you come across a demon....Who's the boss now?
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Old 05-29-16, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
More than likely, your Dunelt was made in Nottingham by Raleigh and is one of the rebranded Sports type bikes so common here.
So would have the same 25 5/32" bearings like any other Raleigh. I know the Dunelt brand goes way back and they made motorcycles and bicycles on their own, but the name was bought out by Raleigh at some point. I'm not sure when. Every Dunelt I've ever seen was a Nottingham bike.
Thanks, I managed to find exactly that many rolling around on my garage floor. But was not sure that was correct. I think I will go to Ace and see if they have any.

What to do, what to do, Dunelt decals seem harder to find that for Raleigh.
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Old 05-29-16, 09:24 AM
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Man, it must have been fun to hunt down 50 tiny ball bearings all over the floor.^^
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Old 05-29-16, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Man, it must have been fun to hunt down 50 tiny ball bearings all over the floor.^^
Yeah it was and my wife appreciated the quality time spent together . I have an epoxy painted garage floor and I keep it fairly clean. They mostly rolled into the crack stops and I just ran a magnet over those. That got most of them. The others where hiding about like little Easter eggs. I will get new bearings, shouldn't I?

This is a Raleigh built bike. It is weird though that the bars and stem are clearly Raleigh yet the cranks are different. The frame is every bit as nice as my Raleigh bikes but the accruements are a step below largely.

I especially find the chain guard mounting less than desirable and notice in advertisements that Raleigh bragged about a three point mount and find the Dunelt two point mount not so stable (thus the bent guard). So they intentionally continued with an inferior guard mounting to allow the Raleigh bragging rights, I suppose?

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Old 05-29-16, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Loose Chain
This is a Raleigh built bike. It is weird though that the bars and stem are clearly Raleigh yet the cranks are different. The frame is every bit as nice as my Raleigh bikes but the accruements are a step below largely.
If you get a chance to look at the parts lists all the way from the 50s on up, when Raleigh bought out a brand the bikes were made pretty much identical: the notable exceptions were the finishes/decals, fork/fork crown, and the cranks. With some other minor differences everything else was the same. So I wouldn't think any brand of the Raleigh era to be that much different from each other.
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Old 05-29-16, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
L'il Demon!
An overnight soaking yielded no results on the stuck cotter pin. An hour of concentrated drilling and hammering finally got it out with minimal damage to the crank. Most of these pins come out like butter but every once in a while you come across a demon....Who's the boss now?
Ouch....but its OUT!
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Old 05-29-16, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Loose Chain
Yeah it was and my wife appreciated the quality time spent together . I have an epoxy painted garage floor and I keep it fairly clean. They mostly rolled into the crack stops and I just ran a magnet over those. That got most of them. The others where hiding about like little Easter eggs. I will get new bearings, shouldn't I?

This is a Raleigh built bike. It is weird though that the bars and stem are clearly Raleigh yet the cranks are different. The frame is every bit as nice as my Raleigh bikes but the accruements are a step below largely.

I especially find the chain guard mounting less than desirable and notice in advertisements that Raleigh bragged about a three point mount and find the Dunelt two point mount not so stable (thus the bent guard). So they intentionally continued with an inferior guard mounting to allow the Raleigh bragging rights, I suppose?

So so glad to hear the hunt was not a major deal. Great wife you got there!

Would be a good idea to start again with new bearings if you plan on keeping it, IMO. Raleigh did the slight step down on all their acquisitions so I've read. Not much, but enough. My Rudge is branded Raleigh on everything.
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Old 05-29-16, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
Does anyone know of any puncture resistant roadster tires that are available in black without reflective sidewalls? Does such a thing exist? I don't feel like creme colored tires are right for my bike
"Roadster" meaning 635 (28 x 1 1/2)?

Schwalbe Delta Cruisers come in black without reflective strips. I've got the creme version and love them. So do the Range Cruisers, which I haven't tried.
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Old 05-29-16, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by brianinc-ville
"Roadster" meaning 635 (28 x 1 1/2)?

Schwalbe Delta Cruisers come in black without reflective strips. I've got the creme version and love them. So do the Range Cruisers, which I haven't tried.
Yes, 40-635. I saw the non-reflective DCs on the Schwalbe website last night, but couldn't find any online shops that actually stock them, and I'm not having much luck finding anywhere in the US that has the RCs (which I hadn't heard of until now)
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Old 05-29-16, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
Yes, 40-635. I saw the non-reflective DCs on the Schwalbe website last night, but couldn't find any online shops that actually stock them, and I'm not having much luck finding anywhere in the US that has the RCs (which I hadn't heard of until now)
Might have to pay for shipping from the Netherlands or Germany -- shipping to the US from DE is typically a bit cheaper than from NL (I know of people who routinely drive across the border to mail stuff). Rose.de, my usual go-to, doesn't seem to have them, though.

Personally, though, I'd say that if you care enough about authenticity to avoid the reflective strip, then you probably care enough to go with the trad non-kevlar Kendas.
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Old 05-29-16, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by brianinc-ville
Personally, though, I'd say that if you care enough about authenticity to avoid the reflective strip, then you probably care enough to go with the trad non-kevlar Kendas.
It's not about authenticity as much as it is about aesthetics. I've got the Kendas on it currently, and they're fine...I'd just like to know what's out there.
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Old 05-29-16, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
L'il Demon!
An overnight soaking yielded no results on the stuck cotter pin. An hour of concentrated drilling and hammering finally got it out with minimal damage to the crank. Most of these pins come out like butter but every once in a while you come across a demon....Who's the boss now?
Congratulations! I have yet to have a cotter that didn't come out by pressing, but it's good to know the drilling method works if pressing fails.
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