For the love of English 3 speeds...
#1076
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I agree. The hub is pretty inconspicuous, especially to the untrained eye, so the specialness of this bike is not readily apparent. But we folks here can see it and understand it.
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I also don't want to strip it. I like the original look, the 'patina' if you like (but I hate that over-used word)
What should I rub with - cloth, or something a little more abrasive?
thanks for the replies, guys
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#1079
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#1080
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I don't think you have to abrade it any more. Saturate a disposable cloth with the oil of your choice, and rub that on the bike, both painted and unpainted surfaces. If you use boiled linseed oil or tung oil, it will be sticky when you're done. That's okay; let it dry somewhere where no dust will settle on it. Linseed oil may take a little longer than tung oil.
#1081
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It is technically an AG but I always find myself tossing in the "W"... they also made the FG which is the 4 speed version of this hub which is also a "W" in that it also a wide range hub.
The AG was produced from 1946 until 1983 although I have never seen one any newer than the one I have as they seem to have been superceded in popularity by the front Dynohubs.

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Figured I liked my old 3 spd winter bike so much I needed another one so built up a Mavic wheel around a '64 SA-AWG (36 4 cross) and now get to find out why it won't shift into 1st.
Still need to install my rear brake too...
So... not exactly English... and not quite a 3 speed (yet).

Still need to install my rear brake too...
So... not exactly English... and not quite a 3 speed (yet).
Sorted out the problem with the AWG and it's not finding or slipping out of first right into 2nd... the drive side adjustments were out and with a loose cone it allows everything inside to shift just enough that the planetary gears will not align in first.
Now I need a full chaincase...

I took the hub apart just to take a peek inside and the internals were squeaky clean and it does not look like my 45 year old hub has any mileage on it at all the the dynohub is cranking out the power quite nicely... the AWG seems to have less drag than a front dynohub too.
Now I need a full chaincase...

I took the hub apart just to take a peek inside and the internals were squeaky clean and it does not look like my 45 year old hub has any mileage on it at all the the dynohub is cranking out the power quite nicely... the AWG seems to have less drag than a front dynohub too.
that is a fantastic machine and it looks like you are gonna ride hell out of it - good for you
#1083
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You are correct...
It is technically an AG but I always find myself tossing in the "W"... they also made the FG which is the 4 speed version of this hub which is also a "W" in that it also a wide range hub.
The AG was produced from 1946 until 1983 although I have never seen one any newer than the one I have as they seem to have been superceded in popularity by the front Dynohubs.
It is technically an AG but I always find myself tossing in the "W"... they also made the FG which is the 4 speed version of this hub which is also a "W" in that it also a wide range hub.
The AG was produced from 1946 until 1983 although I have never seen one any newer than the one I have as they seem to have been superceded in popularity by the front Dynohubs.
Aaron

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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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has anyone fitted modern chromoplastic guards to an old English 3-speeder?
I am wondering if the 700c size will stretch to fit a 28" tyre, and if so, which width guard is best?
Or, alternatively , a set of hammered Honjos!
Any thoughts?
I am wondering if the 700c size will stretch to fit a 28" tyre, and if so, which width guard is best?
Or, alternatively , a set of hammered Honjos!
Any thoughts?
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#1086
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700c: 622mm BSD
27": 630mm BSD
28": 635mm BSD
And for reference, one inch = 25.4 mm.
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This isn't English, but it is a 3 speed. It's a '65 Schwinn Racer (unfortunately the SA hub/wheel was replaced w/ a Shimano setup...but it works perfectly). I've been enjoying this one thoroughly as an office errand or quick lunch break excursionist...very much in the correct spirit of the English 3 speed, eh? I have to say it's a plush ride...perhaps equal or even more plush than my '65 Robin Hood...hmmm.....
Tonight I replace the normal Northroads bars on my Super Course with the really wide kind off a Schwinn. I like the width and the height a lot. I wish they'd used a gentler curve where they bend from the handgrip part to the center part. I grab that when I'm pulling up a hill and the old NR was more comfy there. Maybe some cork tape will even things out some.
#1088
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I made this for another thread. I feel like I should make or do something with it.... any ideas?

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#1089
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Tom
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#1090
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I did this one of my Gran Sport too in a different style. This one is messy but I think it's a little more interesting since it shows textures.

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#1091
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#1092
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Ha, thank you. I got a little sloppy around the rear wheel because I was in a hurry. I cut a mask in Adobe photoshop and filled it with black on a separate layer.
I did this one of my Gran Sport too in a different style. This one is messy but I think it's a little more interesting since it shows textures.

I did this one of my Gran Sport too in a different style. This one is messy but I think it's a little more interesting since it shows textures.

#1093
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I never noticed how crooked the pictures were before I made them black and white. I have the ability to print on canvas, that might be cool. The sloppier image would be good for screen printing, I have a simple single frame somewhere. I might dig it out and attempt to make a t-shirt, I haven't done that since high school.
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#1094
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I may have done something stupid. I added several drops of oil to my SA today. The oil is formulated for 4-cycle lawn mowers and seems somewhere in between 10W-30 and 4-in-1 oils. When I went to ride it, the "click--click--click" of the SA hub was no longer there. The shifting also skipped or wouldn't engage when I was at slower speeds. Did I add too much or is the oil too heavy? Not sure what to do.
#1095
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I may have done something stupid. I added several drops of oil to my SA today. The oil is formulated for 4-cycle lawn mowers and seems somewhere in between 10W-30 and 4-in-1 oils. When I went to ride it, the "click--click--click" of the SA hub was no longer there. The shifting also skipped or wouldn't engage when I was at slower speeds. Did I add too much or is the oil too heavy? Not sure what to do.
I don't think motor oil that thin would hurt anything. (unless it's real cold out) I used to put 50W Valvoline racing oil in these hubs which worked fine in the summer months...

A you could try a little WD-40 or Tri-flow to thin out the oil.
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Hmmmm. You may have flushed some old goop out that is causing the pawls or something to hang up.
I don't think motor oil that thin would hurt anything. (unless it's real cold out) I used to put 50W Valvoline racing oil in these hubs which worked fine in the summer months...
A you could try a little WD-40 or Tri-flow to thin out the oil.
I don't think motor oil that thin would hurt anything. (unless it's real cold out) I used to put 50W Valvoline racing oil in these hubs which worked fine in the summer months...

A you could try a little WD-40 or Tri-flow to thin out the oil.
#1097
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Here is a little known fact about English three speeds... the tick tick tick of the AW attracts chickadees in droves and when this happens you better have some sunflower seeds to give them or it could get ugly.

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30 w oil is fine. Chances are there is too much oil in the hub, good news is that if finds it's way out by itself. IMO I'd ride it for a while, the clicking and smooth shifting will return. My experience has been: If shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd hangs up, it is more likely the cable, or the indicator chain, make sure they move freely. You can watch to see if the chain moves smoothly into the hub. If the hang up is from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st than it might be something within the hub.
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30 w oil is fine. Chances are there is too much oil in the hub, good news is that if finds it's way out by itself. IMO I'd ride it for a while, the clicking and smooth shifting will return. My experience has been: If shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd hangs up, it is more likely the cable, or the indicator chain, make sure they move freely. You can watch to see if the chain moves smoothly into the hub. If the hang up is from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st than it might be something within the hub.