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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-04-16, 10:33 AM
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BigChief,

I may know a guy who had a pair of NOS Raleigh fenders that may be for a DL-1. I noticed them in his shop, but didn't really check to see what they were exactly.
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Old 07-04-16, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I'm afraid I can't rescue the rear fender from my '72 DL-1. The metal is very thin around the reflector. I wasn't going to be able to make the fenders look nice anyway. They have more than surface rust. The steel is pitted badly. I have the touch up done on the frame. I'll post some pics in a week or so after I compound the the repairs in. I use gloss paint for touch ups because it's easier to dull a gloss that to bring one up. Most of the repairs will blend in except for the left chain stay. So the bike won't have fenders or a chain guard for a while. While I wait for the paint to harden I'll open up the SA hub. It freewheels and the pawls click nicely, but pull on the indicator chain and...nothing. Froze solid. Should still be a cool bike. Maybe I should get cream colored tires for a path racer look.
Ah, too bad about that fender. The rear on my DL-1 project is also the most rusted spot, but I think I can make it look decent. I wrapped it in OA for a couple of days, which made the rust less red, at least, and then took a scotch bright pad to it to smooth it some, but it looks like I'll need to sand and repaint a couple of spots. The tricky part is trying to match the patina of the rest of the fender (and the frame and the front fender).
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Old 07-04-16, 01:19 PM
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1947 Schwinn three speed for the Fourth of July.

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Old 07-04-16, 08:09 PM
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Yellow Jersey sells new fenders. Reasonably priced too. But a new finish wouldn't match the rather beat up finish on the frame. This bike would be a candidate for a total restoration if I didn't mind spending more than a DL-1 in decent condition would cost. Might be worth doing if it were special in some way. Hmmmm what do you think of a cream colored roadster?
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Old 07-07-16, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I'm afraid I can't rescue the rear fender from my '72 DL-1. The metal is very thin around the reflector. I wasn't going to be able to make the fenders look nice anyway. They have more than surface rust. The steel is pitted badly. I have the touch up done on the frame. I'll post some pics in a week or so after I compound the the repairs in. I use gloss paint for touch ups because it's easier to dull a gloss that to bring one up. Most of the repairs will blend in except for the left chain stay. So the bike won't have fenders or a chain guard for a while. While I wait for the paint to harden I'll open up the SA hub. It freewheels and the pawls click nicely, but pull on the indicator chain and...nothing. Froze solid. Should still be a cool bike. Maybe I should get cream colored tires for a path racer look.
I like to see the progress on these things. Path Racer is a good idea if the fenders are shot.
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Old 07-07-16, 04:02 PM
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I'm pretty happy with how my DL-1's rear fender turned out. Pics in a bit, but in short I sanded off the rust, masked the decal, sprayed gloss black, and then dulled the gloss to match the original (with a combo of 1000 grit wet sanding and ScratchX-type products). It might still be a bit too shiny compared to the rest, however.
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Old 07-07-16, 04:36 PM
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Here's the DL-1 rear fender before:



And now after re-finishing:



And the rest of the bike:







The chrome on the rims is pretty far gone, I'm afraid, not so much rusted as it's just worn through. I still need to sort out several more things to get it rideable, and need to fashion a replacement rear reflector (the plastic part) from my pile of discarded reflectors. Oh, and I need to work on the missing seat tube band decal.
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Old 07-07-16, 06:32 PM
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Good Job! This is the approach I'm taking with the frame repairs on mine. I can't truly match the patina, but I can match the color and gloss of the rest of the paint. For small touch ups, this works great, but I have a large area on the chain stay that is going to look repaired in spite of my best efforts. Here's a pic of the frame drying in the sun. I'll start compounding it in a day or two. For some reason the transfers instead of fading turned a bright yellow. Never seen that before.
Took the AW apart and found no reason for it to be jammed up.Just the usual gunk inside. Cleaned it up and it seems in order now.
How's the S5 coming along? I think it will be perfect for this bike. It's something I would surely try myself if I get the chance.
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Old 07-07-16, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
I was wondering if these crimp-on ends for a Sturmey Archer shift cable can be purchased somewhere. Or, alternatively, if anyone can recommend a suitable replacement for this small part.
There was a post in the Yahoo IGH group recently https://beta.groups.yahoo.com/neo/gr...messages/11103

Looks like Aaron has got plenty.
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Old 07-08-16, 07:31 AM
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To make that cable crimp, I use a #3 brass fishing leader sleeve and a crimper as described in this thread.
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Old 07-08-16, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
How's the S5 coming along? I think it will be perfect for this bike. It's something I would surely try myself if I get the chance.
I've decided not to fiddle with it for now but instead to (slowly) get the rest of the bike cleaned up and in working order. I'm still hopeful I can get it functioning.
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Old 07-08-16, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
I was wondering if these crimp-on ends for a Sturmey Archer shift cable can be purchased somewhere. Or, alternatively, if anyone can recommend a suitable replacement for this small part.
I sat down at the workbench the other day and cut several pieces of brass 3/32 tubing to length. You are welcome to a couple of those.
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Old 07-08-16, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
I sat down at the workbench the other day and cut several pieces of brass 3/32 tubing to length. You are welcome to a couple of those.
Actually I bought some copper 3/32 myself and have crimped and epoxied an approx 1/2 piece onto the OEM SA cable on a fast Sports [17 tooth rear sprocket] that I have.

I rode the bike around a couple of blocks casually the other evening but I haven't gotten on it and cranked it up but I plan to this weekend.

If it stands up to the number of downshifts I expect to have then I will assume that the copper - used with epoxy anyway - can hang with the brass.

Thanks for the offer though, if the copper fails I may want a couple of the pieces you cut.

How did you cut them? I used a cutting disc on a rotary tool and a stone tip on the same tool to clean up the jagged edges and to grind down the bulges where I had crimped.
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Old 07-08-16, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Actually I bought some copper 3/32 myself and have crimped and epoxied an approx 1/2 piece onto the OEM SA cable on a fast Sports [17 tooth rear sprocket] that I have.

I rode the bike around a couple of blocks casually the other evening but I haven't gotten on it and cranked it up but I plan to this weekend.

If it stands up to the number of downshifts I expect to have then I will assume that the copper - used with epoxy anyway - can hang with the brass.

Thanks for the offer though, if the copper fails I may want a couple of the pieces you cut.

How did you cut them? I used a cutting disc on a rotary tool and a stone tip on the same tool to clean up the jagged edges and to grind down the bulges where I had crimped.
I have found that a jewelers saw with a 56 tpi blade works very well. A finer blade may be OK as well. I tried a small tubing cutter, but it compressed the end of the small tubing.

Last edited by dweenk; 07-08-16 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 07-08-16, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by badmother
There was a post in the Yahoo IGH group recently https://beta.groups.yahoo.com/neo/gr...messages/11103

Looks like Aaron has got plenty.
Some interesting info there. I like the idea of converting some bikes to stainless cables and lined housings. Wonder how the net effect feels.
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Old 07-08-16, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
I have found that a jewelers saw with a 56 tpi blade works very well. A finer blade may be OK as well. I tried a small tubing cutter, but it compressed the end of the small tubing.
Don't you still have some fine filing to do when you use the saw?
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Old 07-08-16, 05:50 PM
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I'm lost on this. What are the merits of this bike if it's not a folder?
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Old 07-08-16, 07:29 PM
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I use the corner of a fine file to saw the brass tubing then deburr with a pointy knife. The 3/32 tubing works for the shifter trigger too. I'm out of SA cables, so for my current DL-1 project, I'll be cutting the barrel end off a standard shifter cable. Still, I had to buy new tires, tubes, chain, grips and a chain tensioner. I have a serfas RX seat that will have to do for now. and I used up my supply of ball bearings. I replaced all of them on this bike. Might be of use to somebody so I'll list em here.
In the hub...ball ring 24 3/16. axle bearings 16 1/4
Steering tube 50 5/32
front wheel 18 3/16
bottom bracket 22 1/4
edit: also needed anti rotation washers. What is it with these? Why do people always throw them away. It seems like every old Raleigh I buy is missing them.

Last edited by BigChief; 07-08-16 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 07-09-16, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Don't you still have some fine filing to do when you use the saw?
Sometimes I need to de-burr the bottom of the cut with a file, but often the cut is clean.
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Old 07-09-16, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
edit: also needed anti rotation washers. What is it with these? Why do people always throw them away. It seems like every old Raleigh I buy is missing them.
BigChief, Harris Cyclery is a good source for these.
Sturmey-Archer Spare Parts from Harris Cyclery
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Old 07-09-16, 01:37 PM
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Thanks dweenk, good resource there. Those are different than the anti rotation washers I'm used to. The raised section extends the whole way across the washer instead of just a short wall near the hole. Seems that these would use up more chain adjustment compared to the others. I found some of the short walled washers on the bay. Even with all the stuff I needed, I'm still under a hundred bucks with this project. If I end up loving the bike I might consider another 60 for fenders and another 70 for a leather seat even if it takes the project under water value wise.
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Old 07-10-16, 06:24 AM
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This nice Sports in 23" turned up on our local CL.


Vintage Raleigh 3-speed
Vintage Raleigh 3-speed - $80 (Chester)
< image 1 of 1 >











1974 Raleigh 3-speed. Rides,shifts,and stops as it should. tires and tubes were installed recently. Could use a cleaning. All original except for tires. 58cm. Cash only please. Thanks
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Old 07-10-16, 08:32 AM
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Nice bike. Earlier than 74. No brazed on cable guides, the chainwheel still has the V brackets and the chain guard still has the older style transfer instead of "Raleigh Sports". Glad it's far away. It would be hard to resist at 80 bucks even with the missing Brooks saddle.
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Old 07-10-16, 11:50 AM
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Richmond must be where old Raleigh 3-speeds go to die (or end up on CL). Nice price too.
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Old 07-10-16, 03:45 PM
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I no longer know how to post images on this site since the interface was changed....
The "upload from computer" option seems to have disappeared...
I love progress.
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