Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 12-20-16, 01:55 PM
  #12201  
Senior Member
 
2cam16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Mateo,Ca.
Posts: 4,339

Bikes: TRIMMED DOWN THE HERD

Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1087 Post(s)
Liked 920 Times in 588 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Great find. I like that color too. If you wanted to, since it's a solid color and not the candy apple type, you could match this paint on an old 2 point hockey stick chainguard and use a downtube transfer since they're the same on this model. The new vinyl transfers are quite good. I have one on my roadster. I like to use One Shot sign painter's enamel. I buy small cans of primary colors and experiment until I get a good match. You can spray a clear coat or not and use a more coarse compound to leave the finish a bit dull. It's possible to blend in the new chainguard pretty well and who knows, after a few years of use it might look almost original.
Here's a 64 I finished up last summer.
Gorgeous.
2cam16 is offline  
Old 12-20-16, 06:03 PM
  #12202  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
A friend bought this for me back in October in Richmond, VA (the city where old Raleighs retire). I just got it from him today and must say I am pleased with the bike. It appears to be original except for the seat, shifter cables, and tires. The only problems I have found are a front tube that needs replacing and a broken plastic faceplate on the 3 speed shift trigger. It shifts through all gears, so now I only need to wait for a warmer day to begin the cleanup. Oh, I have a sprung leather saddle waiting for it too.
You got it...great! Been waiting to see better pics. Looks to be in super condition. This is one rare bike. I've never even seen a picture of one before. All the catalogs show the gents version. Beautiful bike. Bet you're gonna like the S5. I have a different version of the bell crank on mine.
bell_crank.jpg
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-20-16, 06:25 PM
  #12203  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 9,128

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,443 Times in 1,556 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
Swung by the co-op again this afternoon for a closer look at the European 3-speed I noticed there previously. After clambering over more junk than can be found in my own garage, I saw the headbadge and turns out it's a Condor, made in Switzerland by the same company that builds the Swiss army bikes. Photo below is not the same bicycle but looks very close, and those of you with Puch/A-D mixtes will probably recognize the bend of the handlebars, missing on the bike I found. Darn.



Attachment 543112
Well, I went by the co-op again this evening and bought it. Don't tell Santa; she doesn't know about it yet. It's Swiss, not English but it has a Sturmey with the hub date of 78 and 700C alloy wheels, full alloy chainguard (never seen one before), broken taillight and no handlebars. Pics coming.
thumpism is offline  
Old 12-20-16, 10:15 PM
  #12204  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
Originally Posted by desconhecido
Mighty fine looking bike and the chainguard looks like a match. those rims are pretty nice, too. The only ones of the original rims I ever got looking decent are on a 51. Didn't have to do much to them as they are some sort of different steel alloy and they hold up very well. They are the ones with the raised matte finish centers. I was pretty surprised when I started cleaning up the bike to find the rims in nice condition and stainless spokes, too. I think they stopped using those pattern rims and the stainless spoke in 52 or 53. By 56, they were gone.
These are the usual 40H and 32H Raleigh pattern "westrick" rims and they are very clean. This bike had a bent drive side crank, some big soft dents in the rear fender, missing chain guard, shifter, grips and headlight bracket but no rust. Good 40-32 westricks are quite rare. When there's rust on the outside, it's usually worse inside and when a bike has been sitting for 40 years, there's usually one really bad spot where moisture collected at the bottom. We're lucky quality alloys like CR-18s are available in 40H. Still, anybody wanting to do a historic type restoration is going to want good westricks and they are scarce. That's what I'm trying to do with this project and why I kept the original plastic pulley. I'm quick to get rid of those on my riders. Next thing on my list for this bike are old white original grips like the ones on the green '64 above.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 01:27 AM
  #12205  
Senior Member
 
adventurepdx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,023
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 162 Post(s)
Liked 65 Times in 47 Posts
Originally Posted by Salubrious
Looks like you could do with a metal pulley. You can get them and the metal fulcrum clip from Jon the Gentleman Cyclist- see the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour website for contact info.
The Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour
More dirct link to the GC merch:
Gentleman Cyclist Merchandise
adventurepdx is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 11:11 AM
  #12206  
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,979

Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times in 225 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
You got it...great! Been waiting to see better pics. Looks to be in super condition. This is one rare bike. I've never even seen a picture of one before. All the catalogs show the gents version. Beautiful bike. Bet you're gonna like the S5. I have a different version of the bell crank on mine.
Attachment 546505
I discovered another issue with the Sprint today. The chainring is bent so that it nearly rubs the chainstay. When I take it all apart for cleaning and bearing maintenance, I'm thinking that a no-bounce mallet and a wood block may straighten it out. Any better ideas/
__________________
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
dweenk is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 11:15 AM
  #12207  
Old Boy
 
DQRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,390

Bikes: Mostly 1st-generation, top-of-the-line, non-unicrown MTBs/ATBs: All 1984 models: Dawes Ranger, Peugeot Canyon Express, Ross Mt. Whitney (chrome), Schwinn High Sierra, and a 1983 Trek 850.

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 1,715 Times in 611 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
I discovered another issue with the Sprint today. The chainring is bent so that it nearly rubs the chainstay. When I take it all apart for cleaning and bearing maintenance, I'm thinking that a no-bounce mallet and a wood block may straighten it out. Any better ideas/
A photo would help the Garage Logicians among us to formulate a solution. Also, are you willing to take it off the bike for this operation, or do you want to do it in place?
__________________

Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.


USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
DQRider is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 03:43 PM
  #12208  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
Hammering with a soft mallet works, but it's difficult to keep track of things. You need to have a nice wide flat surface like a kitchen counter top to check your progress. Because the wheel is dished and there's a fixed crank in the way, you need a 2"x2" piece of steel or hardwood chucked in a bench vise to use as an anvil and you work out the bend a small area at a time. You can also try to spot the bend by eye and chuck the chainwheel in the bench vise between two boards and use a steel rod through the spindle hole to make corrections. The trick is to go slow and keep checking against a flat surface.
__________________
Inflate Hard

Last edited by BigChief; 12-21-16 at 03:46 PM.
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 06:37 PM
  #12209  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,822

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2284 Post(s)
Liked 2,012 Times in 1,237 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
I discovered another issue with the Sprint today. The chainring is bent so that it nearly rubs the chainstay. When I take it all apart for cleaning and bearing maintenance, I'm thinking that a no-bounce mallet and a wood block may straighten it out. Any better ideas/
I've straightened a few soft steel cranks with the mallet/blocks thing 'in situ'. I also have a 16" adjustable wrench that allows you to push and pull the ring into alignment. No I don't worry about the hard steel BB's on these bikes, I find they tolerate the abuse. I guess it depends on the bike. It's easier than truing a wheel
clubman is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 07:59 PM
  #12210  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 9,128

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,443 Times in 1,556 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
Well, I went by the co-op again this evening and bought it. Don't tell Santa; she doesn't know about it yet. It's Swiss, not English but it has a Sturmey with the hub date of 78 and 700C alloy wheels, full alloy chainguard (never seen one before), broken taillight and no handlebars. Pics coming.
So, here it is in its new home. No immediate plans for it yet but I might try the 700C alloy wheels on my Raleigh Pro frame to see if it will make a neat path racer. It's not fancy but it's a really nice little bike and in such good shape. The wheels are damn near perfect; not a hop, not a wobble, not a ding.

I really hate that it's missing some parts but I probably would not have found it otherwise, and the rest is in very good shape.
1_Profile.JPG

This type frame must have a specific name. I'll have to research that. Union pedals.
2_looking down the tubes.JPG

Sturmey hub from '78.
7_Sturmey.JPG

DT spokes in a modest level bike. Must be a Swiss thang.
11_spokes.JPG

Union front hub with oil port.
10_Union.JPG
thumpism is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 09:21 PM
  #12211  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,138

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 362 Post(s)
Liked 791 Times in 301 Posts
My experience is also that the Westrick rims with the matte raised center ridge hold up better and are more rust resistant. They lasted through at least the late 1950s on standard pattern bikes, later on specialty export models. My 1958 Sports came with them stock, as did my 1964 Danish-export Dawn Tourist.

1964 Dawn Tourist rim:



1964 Dawn Tourist for the Danish market:



__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/

Last edited by SirMike1983; 12-21-16 at 09:25 PM.
SirMike1983 is offline  
Old 12-21-16, 10:11 PM
  #12212  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
Originally Posted by clubman
I've straightened a few soft steel cranks with the mallet/blocks thing 'in situ'. I also have a 16" adjustable wrench that allows you to push and pull the ring into alignment. No I don't worry about the hard steel BB's on these bikes, I find they tolerate the abuse. I guess it depends on the bike. It's easier than truing a wheel
I thought about leaving the crank on the bike and bending the outer rim with a wrench. It makes sense that it would reverse the bend since it got hit on the outer rim and was fixed at the spindle when it bent originally. Never tried it because I was afraid I'd end up making an S bend or kink and never get the wobble out. I felt safer putting the fulcrum point at the center of the bend, but if bending it from the rim with a wrench works, that would sure be the easy way to go. Maybe I'll have the courage to try it next time. I always straighten crank arms while they're still mounted on the bike. Doesn't hurt the bearings a bit.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-22-16, 12:45 PM
  #12213  
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,979

Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times in 225 Posts
I plan to regrease the bottom bracket on the Sprite, so I may as well pull the chainwheel. I have a vise with wooden jaws, so I can give lots of support to the area in question.

BYW, the bike has a shop sticker on it that reads "Dieners, Pottstown, PA".
__________________
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin

Last edited by dweenk; 12-22-16 at 12:51 PM.
dweenk is offline  
Old 12-22-16, 02:38 PM
  #12214  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
I've straightened many crank arms over the years but only 2 chainwheels. Both were the standard Raleigh spoked type not heron wheels. The bench vise method did work, but I'm very interested in what clubman said about tweeking the wheel with a large wrench while it was mounted on the BB. You could just spin the crank and make adjustments by eye. I'm going to try this next time. I spent a long time getting those to lie flat on the surface plate. Bending it with a wrench would be far more efficient and may work just as well.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-22-16, 03:43 PM
  #12215  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
My experience is also that the Westrick rims with the matte raised center ridge hold up better and are more rust resistant. They lasted through at least the late 1950s on standard pattern bikes, later on specialty export models. My 1958 Sports came with them stock, as did my 1964 Danish-export Dawn Tourist.

1964 Dawn Tourist rim:



1964 Dawn Tourist for the Danish market:



I think chrome plating was more rugged on the 50s and early 60s bikes in general. Quality seemed to suffer some by the 70s and today, most of it is poor. It doesn't even look the same new and rusts quickly.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-22-16, 03:53 PM
  #12216  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,822

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2284 Post(s)
Liked 2,012 Times in 1,237 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I've straightened many crank arms over the years but only 2 chainwheels. Both were the standard Raleigh spoked type not heron wheels. The bench vise method did work, but I'm very interested in what clubman said about tweeking the wheel with a large wrench while it was mounted on the BB. You could just spin the crank and make adjustments by eye. I'm going to try this next time. I spent a long time getting those to lie flat on the surface plate. Bending it with a wrench would be far more efficient and may work just as well.
You got it. The ability to spin the cranks lets you quickly identify the wow in the rings. 5 mins using the wrench and a deadblow hammer to get it close enough to be unnoticeable. Large C clamps are also good options, they let you get a purchase closer to the spindle if needed.
clubman is offline  
Old 12-23-16, 05:41 PM
  #12217  
Senior Member
 
2cam16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Mateo,Ca.
Posts: 4,339

Bikes: TRIMMED DOWN THE HERD

Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1087 Post(s)
Liked 920 Times in 588 Posts
Just finished restoring my Huffy yesterday:
2cam16 is offline  
Old 12-23-16, 06:05 PM
  #12218  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Spokane, Wa.
Posts: 20

Bikes: Lots

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Got er' done just in time for the winter solstice.

1960 Raleigh Sports with 6 speed conversion. Except for the grips it is ready. Also, this bike has the Westrick rims as noted in the previous post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Raleigh Snow.JPG (78.6 KB, 136 views)
drday is offline  
Old 12-23-16, 06:45 PM
  #12219  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,822

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2284 Post(s)
Liked 2,012 Times in 1,237 Posts
Originally Posted by 2cam16
Just finished restoring my Huffy yesterday:
Really nice work, best $10 Huffy I've ever seen. Don't forget to drizzle lots-o-oil into the rear brake housing. Water likes to get in there causing seizures.
clubman is offline  
Old 12-23-16, 07:36 PM
  #12220  
Senior Member
 
2cam16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Mateo,Ca.
Posts: 4,339

Bikes: TRIMMED DOWN THE HERD

Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1087 Post(s)
Liked 920 Times in 588 Posts
Originally Posted by clubman
Really nice work, best $10 Huffy I've ever seen. Don't forget to drizzle lots-o-oil into the rear brake housing. Water likes to get in there causing seizures.
Thanks,Clubman! Will do.
2cam16 is offline  
Old 12-24-16, 06:41 AM
  #12221  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 9,128

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,443 Times in 1,556 Posts
Okay, so it's not English, but German. However it is a 3-speed. Actually, it's kinda like two 3-speeds.

Vintage German Westfalen tandem cruiser bicycle

Vintage German Westfalen tandem cruiser bicycle - $500 (Williamsburg)



condition: excellent
make / manufacturer: Westfallen
model name / number: Top Modell
size / dimensions: 22" front post 21" rear post

Reluctantly selling my 1980's Westfalen Top Modell tandem bike. This tandem is in beautiful condition, new tires and tubes, freshly tuned and ready to ride. Features a Sachs 3 speed coaster brake hub, dual Aero Continental cranksets, front and rear Weinmann side pull brakes, Pletscher rack, full lighting, chrome fenders, 26" CST Classic E-Bike tires with reflective sidewall. 22" / 21" frame that sports the original air pump, original tool kit, and a rear wheel lock built into the frame. Built and sold in Germany to a high standard with detail and aesthetics that are rare anymore and hard to find.

This is a gorgeous bike that rides perfectly. I collect, restore and ride vintage bikes and consider this one of my best but it does not get ridden like it should! The bike is perfect for rides on the Capitol bike trail, Colonial Parkway, the oceanfront, or around Richmond.

May consider trades of quality men's mountain bike MTB or road bike.
thumpism is offline  
Old 12-24-16, 07:54 AM
  #12222  
Senior Member
 
markk900's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,643
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 473 Post(s)
Liked 623 Times in 330 Posts
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
My experience is also that the Westrick rims with the matte raised center ridge hold up better and are more rust resistant. They lasted through at least the late 1950s on standard pattern bikes, later on specialty export models. My 1958 Sports came with them stock, as did my 1964 Danish-export Dawn Tourist.
I have those rims on my 1949 Humber, and for the most part they are in excellent shape, except the brake surfaces were quite worn and rusty. Cleaned them up and they work as well as can be expected, and I bought some replacement CR18s for when I eventually replace them, but the trainspotter in me thinks the rim profile and the matt centre are details too nice to lose.

Any idea how to rechrome that type of rim and retain the satin centre? The fellow in Greece has a couple of NOS ones but chroming might be cheaper!
markk900 is offline  
Old 12-24-16, 12:36 PM
  #12223  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
old Raleigh rims

I looked through old photos that I took when I acquired a couple bikes about two years ago. One is a 51 Sports
step through the other is a 56 21" Sports. There is definitely a difference between the rims on the 51 and the
56.

This first picture shows, from left to right, 590 CR18, 51 Sports front wheel, 56 Sports rear wheel, two 79
Sturmey Archer rims from a 79 Sports



The difference between the 51 and the 56 rims is readily apparent. They don't appear to me to be the same alloy
though they seem to be the same extrusion (or however the flat rim stock is formed) which is clearly different in
shape from the 79 rims, though that may not be obvious in the photo. Of course, the obvious difference is how
corrosion resistant the 51 rim seems as opposed to the 56.


Here's a pretty clear photo of the 51 rim which shows the raised center section which is, I believe etched perhaps
mechanically.



Here's a photo of the 56 which, for some reason, didn't come out as clear.



The brand stamping is not nearly as clear and though the raised center is sort of a matte finish, it is not nearly as
distinct as the 51. Interesting, the "registration" number on the 56 rims is the same as that on the 51 rims, so it
seems that Raleigh considered to be identical, though they were clearly not.

Here's a picture of the weld joint on the 51 rim that was in the above pictures



There is very little corrosion and the workmanship/machining is, by Raleigh standards, extraordinary. This rim did
not get any work other than just wiping the grease off with a rag. No steel wool or wire brushing or oxalic acid
treatment -- just degreasing. I don't know anything about what alloy they used back then, but it wasn't, in my
opinion, what the were using in 56 and the difference compared to the mid to late 70s is obvious.

Here are the 56 rims earlier today



Apparently I cleaned these up with oxalic acid as there are still traces of that yellow crud that gets left behind.
The chrome is mostly intact, except for the brake surfaces all the way around both rims. Note that the center
section on the rim is a matte finish but, to my eye, not the same as on the earlier rims.

All considered, these rims actually cleaned up reasonably well. But, I'll never use them. If anybody can use them,
they can have them for the cost of shipping, or for free in Houston. If they prove useful, I'd accept some random
Raleigh/three speed stuff considered by the recipient to be of equal value. No considered value, no charge.
Specifics: 56 Raleigh EA3 rims cleaned with oxalic acid. 40h and 32h.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 12-24-16, 02:38 PM
  #12224  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times in 84 Posts
Originally Posted by 2cam16
Just finished restoring my Huffy yesterday:
Wow, that came out nice. Good job. What a good rags to riches story
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-24-16, 03:10 PM
  #12225  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,138

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 362 Post(s)
Liked 791 Times in 301 Posts
Originally Posted by desconhecido
I looked through old photos that I took when I acquired a couple bikes about two years ago. One is a 51 Sports
step through the other is a 56 21" Sports. There is definitely a difference between the rims on the 51 and the
56.

This first picture shows, from left to right, 590 CR18, 51 Sports front wheel, 56 Sports rear wheel, two 79
Sturmey Archer rims from a 79 Sports



The difference between the 51 and the 56 rims is readily apparent. They don't appear to me to be the same alloy
though they seem to be the same extrusion (or however the flat rim stock is formed) which is clearly different in
shape from the 79 rims, though that may not be obvious in the photo. Of course, the obvious difference is how
corrosion resistant the 51 rim seems as opposed to the 56.


Here's a pretty clear photo of the 51 rim which shows the raised center section which is, I believe etched perhaps
mechanically.



Here's a photo of the 56 which, for some reason, didn't come out as clear.



The brand stamping is not nearly as clear and though the raised center is sort of a matte finish, it is not nearly as
distinct as the 51. Interesting, the "registration" number on the 56 rims is the same as that on the 51 rims, so it
seems that Raleigh considered to be identical, though they were clearly not.

Here's a picture of the weld joint on the 51 rim that was in the above pictures



There is very little corrosion and the workmanship/machining is, by Raleigh standards, extraordinary. This rim did
not get any work other than just wiping the grease off with a rag. No steel wool or wire brushing or oxalic acid
treatment -- just degreasing. I don't know anything about what alloy they used back then, but it wasn't, in my
opinion, what the were using in 56 and the difference compared to the mid to late 70s is obvious.

Here are the 56 rims earlier today



Apparently I cleaned these up with oxalic acid as there are still traces of that yellow crud that gets left behind.
The chrome is mostly intact, except for the brake surfaces all the way around both rims. Note that the center
section on the rim is a matte finish but, to my eye, not the same as on the earlier rims.

All considered, these rims actually cleaned up reasonably well. But, I'll never use them. If anybody can use them,
they can have them for the cost of shipping, or for free in Houston. If they prove useful, I'd accept some random
Raleigh/three speed stuff considered by the recipient to be of equal value. No considered value, no charge.
Specifics: 56 Raleigh EA3 rims cleaned with oxalic acid. 40h and 32h.
Neat- sent you a PM about these. I am interested.



Originally Posted by markk900
I have those rims on my 1949 Humber, and for the most part they are in excellent shape, except the brake surfaces were quite worn and rusty. Cleaned them up and they work as well as can be expected, and I bought some replacement CR18s for when I eventually replace them, but the trainspotter in me thinks the rim profile and the matt centre are details too nice to lose.

Any idea how to rechrome that type of rim and retain the satin centre? The fellow in Greece has a couple of NOS ones but chroming might be cheaper!

What I do when they're like that is clean up the brake with WD-40 and bronze wool or a bronze/brass bristle brush and just run them as is. If the brake track wear is through the plating but not through the base steel, I consider it "honest wear" and just ride them as they stand.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
SirMike1983 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.