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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 12-24-16, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Wow, that came out nice. Good job. What a good rags to riches story
Thanks Bigchief!
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Old 12-24-16, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
Neat- sent you a PM about these. I am interested.






What I do when they're like that is clean up the brake with WD-40 and bronze wool or a bronze/brass bristle brush and just run them as is. If the brake track wear is through the plating but not through the base steel, I consider it "honest wear" and just ride them as they stand.
I have to inspect them with a closer eye, but I think the brake surface wear is pretty uniform. I remember them being rustier than they looked early today, but they have been hanging in the garage rafters for a couple years and I don't remember trying to clean them up at all. Obviously, somebody did, and I'm the likely suspect.

Typically I would clean something like this with 0000 or 00000 steel wool wetted with WD40. With the really fine steel wool, it won't scratch the surface much, particularly if gently done. I like the really fine steel wool for polishing aluminum also. 0000 with Mother's and then just Mother's and it makes short work of it so long as there were no flaws that had to be sanded out.
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Old 12-26-16, 10:13 AM
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I'm starting work on a 56 hub date Robin Hood that's had a poor black repaint some time in the past. Thinking about doing a DIY repaint on this one since the paint isn't great and there are so many black 3 speeds out there. Do you guys want to see in progress pics?












Last edited by 9volt; 12-26-16 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 12-26-16, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 9volt
I'm starting work on a 56 hub date Robin Hood that's had a poor black repaint some time in the past. Thinking about doing a DIY repaint on this one since the paint isn't great and there are so many black 3 speeds out there. Do you guys want to see in progress pics?









The cable pulley lug mount on the top tube is consistent with the 56 date on the hub. I'm sure you'll have an oil port in the bottom bracket and possibly a lug in the drive side chainstay for an enclosed chainguard. You bet I'd like progress pictures. Next best thing to having a new project myself. Since it's overpainted, you have a nice choice of restoration or customization possibilities.
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Old 12-26-16, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 9volt
I'm starting work on a 56 hub date Robin Hood that's had a poor black repaint some time in the past. Thinking about doing a DIY repaint on this one since the paint isn't great and there are so many black 3 speeds out there. Do you guys want to see in progress pics?
+1 to pics. A great bike to refurbish. Look at how nice the chrome plating cleans up. The head badge is outstanding too. Do you have the metal pulley wheel for the top tube mount? That may be harder to find that most. I have an extra metal pulley that you might work with. Metal fulcrum stops as well.

I also like the Terry (?) mattress saddle if it's not too beat. Otherwise a Brooks will do.
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Old 12-26-16, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 9volt
I'm starting work on a 56 hub date Robin Hood that's had a poor black repaint some time in the past. Thinking about doing a DIY repaint on this one since the paint isn't great and there are so many black 3 speeds out there. Do you guys want to see in progress pics?











Most definitely start a project thread or update us here!
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Old 12-26-16, 11:56 AM
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I think the windowed shifter is also correct for 56. There is a lug on the drive chain stay near the kick stand. Would that be for an enclosed guard?

It's being very cooperative so far. Pins only needed a rubber mallet to be convinced to come out and the BB looks good. Someone painted over the fixed cup and it's cranky but I think I'll just clean it from the other side. Stem bolt head is a bit stripped. Probably going to file it down to resurface the flats.

Is it ok to post this stuff here or should I start a project thread?





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Old 12-26-16, 12:16 PM
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Here is just fine. It's where the love is.
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Old 12-26-16, 12:31 PM
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Well it looks like the fork is shot. It's unfortunate, the lugs on this one were kind of interesting. There is a dent near the top on the wheel side in this pic and then 1-2 smaller ones lower down the arm.

I have a some road forks that might be the right length. Is it likely one of those would work on this thing until a decent Raleigh fork turns up?

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Old 12-26-16, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 9volt
Well it looks like the fork is shot. It's unfortunate, the lugs on this one were kind of interesting. There is a dent near the top on the wheel side in this pic and then 1-2 smaller ones lower down the arm.

I have a some road forks that might be the right length. Is it likely one of those would work on this thing until a decent Raleigh fork turns up?

Just because the fork tubes are dented does not mean the fork can't be used. If there are no cracks and if the wheel is straight in the fork and the bike tracks straight I'd use it until something better comes along.
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Old 12-26-16, 01:16 PM
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I'm not that familiar with how much damage a steel for can take and still be safe. If the dents are not a big deal I'll keep going on the RH. lf the fork is toast I'd do this Raleigh Sports step through instead. Any preferences?





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Old 12-26-16, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 9volt
lf the fork is toast I'd do this Raleigh Sports step through instead. Any preferences?

I'm partial to Sportses.
Pearl together.jpg
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Old 12-26-16, 01:35 PM
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If the fork tracks fine, I would trust it. Dents and dimples aren't likely to affect the integrity of those forks.
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Old 12-26-16, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 9volt
I'm not that familiar with how much damage a steel for can take and still be safe. If the dents are not a big deal I'll keep going on the RH. lf the fork is toast I'd do this Raleigh Sports step through instead. Any preferences?





Another vote for the fork being OK. Why not refurbish them both?
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Old 12-26-16, 02:40 PM
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Since you're repainting, you could replace the forks. If you do, take care to preserve the chrome crown cap. It is pretty much irreplaceable. I think it will fit a more modern Raleigh fork crown. In later years, Raleigh used the standard plain chrome cap on Robin Hoods. Like this one.
forks.jpg
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Old 12-27-16, 09:38 AM
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The RH is getting put on hold and the 68 Sports is on deck. I really like the font design on this one:



The gold seat tube graphics are chewed up. Would you leave them as is or remove them? I'm planning to leave the paint alone for the most part.



Bars and stem:





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Old 12-27-16, 10:00 AM
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Don't forget to go back to the RH when you're done. IMO, a superior bike and a man's frame to boot.
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Old 12-27-16, 11:43 AM
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The Robin Hood will get back on the road. Lots of progress on the Sports but the DS cotter is winning. I don't have a proper cotter press, what are the chances that this setup will work? I'm hesitant to put too much torque on the clamp with it not lined up 100%.




Last edited by 9volt; 12-27-16 at 11:48 AM. Reason: Trying a bigger c clamp
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Old 12-27-16, 11:45 AM
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I'd reverse the clamp so the floating end is on the socket.

And then I see a BFH in your future. A controversial method at the best of times but I've used it with about 90% effectiveness back in the dark ages. I bought a Park press and never looked back.

Last edited by clubman; 12-27-16 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 12-27-16, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by clubman
I'd reverse the clamp so the floating end is on the socket.
I uploaded a new pic with a bigger c clamp setup as you suggested. Thanks.

Is it useful to leave the clamp installed on the pin under tension for a while?

Last edited by 9volt; 12-27-16 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 12-27-16, 11:56 AM
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Just confirm that the exposed part of the cotterpin has threads on it? I can't see them and it bugs me. And if so, you can thread the original bolt on the pin till it's flush to give the clamp more stability. You could soak with penetrating oil but it's not in my repetoire. I'd just go at it.
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Old 12-27-16, 12:00 PM
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The exposed part of the pin has threads showing. I took the nut off so that the pressure of the nut on the threads wouldn't damage the threads. Is it better to leave the nut on and slightly unscrewed from the crank arm?
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Old 12-27-16, 12:20 PM
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The method you are using should work. Did you use penetrating oil on the cotter before applying pressure (and let it sit for an hour or so)?
I keep the nut on the threads, fully engaged if possible, until the pin moves. If it doesn't pop out I apply more pressure and wait a while longer. A couple of times I have lightly tapped the crank with a hammer - the pin under pressure from the clamp popped right out.

The BFH is the last gasp method for me.
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Old 12-27-16, 12:55 PM
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It's had penetrating oil on it since yesterday.

The nut was backed off a few turns and the pin bent a little under pressure. Not ideal. How would you guys proceed in this situation? The grease in the BB looks clean and fresh, probably because there is a zerk fitting on the bottom of the shell. I'm leaning towards regrease from the NDS and run it.
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Old 12-27-16, 12:58 PM
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PB Blaster always works for me. Soak it for quite a bit. Then I use a mallet. Only once have I used a fh (not a b) and only because I was going to replace the pins.
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