For the love of English 3 speeds...
08-24-17, 10:01 AM
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No. It could be British and if not might even fit, but a 3-speed stem would be very short so that there would be a clearance for the headlight. Stems like this interfere with the headlight location.
08-24-17, 12:25 PM
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This 1978 Canadian built Raleigh Superbe was the first 3 speed I bought and started my interest in these machines.
Purchased from a guy up the street seven years ago, this is my everyday work bike and gets the most use. It also gets the most attention. last year all the bearings were re-packed and new cables installed in the original ribbed housings.
Attachment 577681
Yesterday, I installed a 22T cog and a new chain. We'll see that works out.
Attachment 577681
In fact, after buying another English built Superbe in much better condition, I foolishly sold this one. Luckily the buyer had second thoughts (i.e. he didn't have any money) and the bike came back to me.
Purchased from a guy up the street seven years ago, this is my everyday work bike and gets the most use. It also gets the most attention. last year all the bearings were re-packed and new cables installed in the original ribbed housings.
Attachment 577681
Yesterday, I installed a 22T cog and a new chain. We'll see that works out.
Attachment 577681
In fact, after buying another English built Superbe in much better condition, I foolishly sold this one. Luckily the buyer had second thoughts (i.e. he didn't have any money) and the bike came back to me.
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08-24-17, 01:26 PM
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@FBOATSB
That stem really looks like the English stem they used on drop bar 10 speeds or upright Raleigh Sprites.
Nice stem but hard to get drop bars through, even if they are the right clamp diameter
That stem really looks like the English stem they used on drop bar 10 speeds or upright Raleigh Sprites.
Nice stem but hard to get drop bars through, even if they are the right clamp diameter
08-24-17, 02:48 PM
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@BigChief does it matter which pin you drive out first? Got the punch but now looking for a suitable work surface. Maybe a piece if hardwood with a hole drilled through it?
Thanks! Found the tutorial, now trying to get my head around the sequence.
Thanks! Found the tutorial, now trying to get my head around the sequence.
08-24-17, 03:14 PM
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08-24-17, 03:30 PM
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Thanks. The last English three speed I ever rode was back in the early sixties. Raleigh Superbe. We called it a "Super Bee".
08-24-17, 04:12 PM
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Hard to tell what's been done to a bike over the last 40 years or so. This one lost it's Dyno hub at some point before it reached me.
As originally found...
p1110162.jpg
And yes, I do have the key,
08-24-17, 04:31 PM
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@BigChief does it matter which pin you drive out first? Got the punch but now looking for a suitable work surface. Maybe a piece if hardwood with a hole drilled through it?
Thanks! Found the tutorial, now trying to get my head around the sequence.
Thanks! Found the tutorial, now trying to get my head around the sequence.
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08-24-17, 05:01 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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@FBOATSB
That stem really looks like the English stem they used on drop bar 10 speeds or upright Raleigh Sprites.
Nice stem but hard to get drop bars through, even if they are the right clamp diameter
That stem really looks like the English stem they used on drop bar 10 speeds or upright Raleigh Sprites.
Nice stem but hard to get drop bars through, even if they are the right clamp diameter
08-24-17, 06:01 PM
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No. But when you reassemble, it is far easier to replace the pawl pin first because this leaves you with the long trigger to hold onto while you maneuver the cam/trigger around under spring pressure to line up the second pin. Sure, wood would work. Especially something hard like maple or oak
Okay so this is how I think it it should be labeled...
08-24-17, 06:51 PM
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Yes, the bracket shapes at the steering tube and seat tube along with the button type oiler in the bottom bracket are the features that date the frame to before 1955. The guide wheel lug on the top tube is the feature that dates the frame after 1950. We know the bike was fixed up sometime after the later 60s by the rear fender and pedals, so it's hard to say if it was originally a Dawn or Dawn Tourist. The tourist was supposed to have both the enclosed chaincase and 3 speed hub as standard. I think it would be correct to restore it to either model.
08-24-17, 09:00 PM
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I don't know much about the older, pre war Raleighs, but except for the high end club type bikes, 28" wheeled roadsters and kids bikes, all the different post war models shared the same "light roadster" frame. They just had different components, names and model numbers.
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08-25-17, 05:24 AM
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Yup, and be careful as you slide the unit apart after the body pins are out. There's two small pins that connect the chrome lever to the hardened plate. They're loose in their holes and fall right out. You don't want to loose them.
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08-25-17, 07:37 AM
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I don't know much about the older, pre war Raleighs, but except for the high end club type bikes, 28" wheeled roadsters and kids bikes, all the different post war models shared the same "light roadster" frame. They just had different components, names and model numbers.
Anyway the 50 catalog shows the Dawn Tourist with the little seat bag which my bike has. A small detail but a good detective leave no stone unturned.
08-25-17, 09:36 AM
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I don't know much about the older, pre war Raleighs, but except for the high end club type bikes, 28" wheeled roadsters and kids bikes, all the different post war models shared the same "light roadster" frame. They just had different components, names and model numbers.
08-25-17, 02:27 PM
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Just looked. Using my tape the top tube is 1" whereas the seat tube and down tube are 1 1/8. I will search headset and light bracket. This light bracket have Raleigh engraved.
08-26-17, 02:37 AM
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>dramatic music<...There will be no frankenABS5 hub...unless someone else can figure it out 
The reason I thought it might work is that I read somewhere that the gear holding portion of the AB shell was the same size as an AW shell; alas 'tis not so.
The S5 shell is 60mm deep, the AB only 45mm deep
The S5 planet cage is 40mm high, the AB only 25mm
The driver, ball ring, and gear ring are the same for both, and also for the AW hub (they have the same part no's).
I suspect that the planet cage of an AW will also be 40mm high (although different part).
The AB insides were coming apart quite clean, and showing little signs of wear, until I got to the planet pinions - one of the little gears is missing 3 teeth. So weird coz it's such a clean, wholesome looking hub with just tiny tips of shiny on the ends of the pawls. Also it ran through the gears well when I first got the bike, with no strange noises. I did find the missing teeth when I wiped out the inside of the hub shell.
soooo I guess I'll be pulling apart the spare AW hub tomorrow to harvest a planet pinion gear. I'll measure the planet cage for interested SA nerds (like me). Lucky I like playing with these little guys.
The reason I thought it might work is that I read somewhere that the gear holding portion of the AB shell was the same size as an AW shell; alas 'tis not so.
The S5 shell is 60mm deep, the AB only 45mm deep
The S5 planet cage is 40mm high, the AB only 25mm
The driver, ball ring, and gear ring are the same for both, and also for the AW hub (they have the same part no's).
I suspect that the planet cage of an AW will also be 40mm high (although different part).
The AB insides were coming apart quite clean, and showing little signs of wear, until I got to the planet pinions - one of the little gears is missing 3 teeth. So weird coz it's such a clean, wholesome looking hub with just tiny tips of shiny on the ends of the pawls. Also it ran through the gears well when I first got the bike, with no strange noises. I did find the missing teeth when I wiped out the inside of the hub shell.
soooo I guess I'll be pulling apart the spare AW hub tomorrow to harvest a planet pinion gear. I'll measure the planet cage for interested SA nerds (like me). Lucky I like playing with these little guys.
Last edited by arty dave; 08-26-17 at 02:42 AM.
08-26-17, 06:18 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Nice camelback from the local CL. Not mine.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...278512864.html
1959 Hercules men's 3 speed - $67 (chester)
Good shape
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...278512864.html
1959 Hercules men's 3 speed - $67 (chester)
Good shape
08-26-17, 07:15 AM
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>dramatic music<...There will be no frankenABS5 hub...unless someone else can figure it out
The reason I thought it might work is that I read somewhere that the gear holding portion of the AB shell was the same size as an AW shell; alas 'tis not so.
The S5 shell is 60mm deep, the AB only 45mm deep
The S5 planet cage is 40mm high, the AB only 25mm
The driver, ball ring, and gear ring are the same for both, and also for the AW hub (they have the same part no's).
I suspect that the planet cage of an AW will also be 40mm high (although different part).
The AB insides were coming apart quite clean, and showing little signs of wear, until I got to the planet pinions - one of the little gears is missing 3 teeth. So weird coz it's such a clean, wholesome looking hub with just tiny tips of shiny on the ends of the pawls. Also it ran through the gears well when I first got the bike, with no strange noises. I did find the missing teeth when I wiped out the inside of the hub shell.
soooo I guess I'll be pulling apart the spare AW hub tomorrow to harvest a planet pinion gear. I'll measure the planet cage for interested SA nerds (like me). Lucky I like playing with these little guys.
The reason I thought it might work is that I read somewhere that the gear holding portion of the AB shell was the same size as an AW shell; alas 'tis not so.
The S5 shell is 60mm deep, the AB only 45mm deep
The S5 planet cage is 40mm high, the AB only 25mm
The driver, ball ring, and gear ring are the same for both, and also for the AW hub (they have the same part no's).
I suspect that the planet cage of an AW will also be 40mm high (although different part).
The AB insides were coming apart quite clean, and showing little signs of wear, until I got to the planet pinions - one of the little gears is missing 3 teeth. So weird coz it's such a clean, wholesome looking hub with just tiny tips of shiny on the ends of the pawls. Also it ran through the gears well when I first got the bike, with no strange noises. I did find the missing teeth when I wiped out the inside of the hub shell.
soooo I guess I'll be pulling apart the spare AW hub tomorrow to harvest a planet pinion gear. I'll measure the planet cage for interested SA nerds (like me). Lucky I like playing with these little guys.
08-26-17, 07:16 AM
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08-26-17, 07:28 AM
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>dramatic music<...There will be no frankenABS5 hub...unless someone else can figure it out
The reason I thought it might work is that I read somewhere that the gear holding portion of the AB shell was the same size as an AW shell; alas 'tis not so.
The S5 shell is 60mm deep, the AB only 45mm deep
The S5 planet cage is 40mm high, the AB only 25mm
The driver, ball ring, and gear ring are the same for both, and also for the AW hub (they have the same part no's).
I suspect that the planet cage of an AW will also be 40mm high (although different part).
The AB insides were coming apart quite clean, and showing little signs of wear, until I got to the planet pinions - one of the little gears is missing 3 teeth. So weird coz it's such a clean, wholesome looking hub with just tiny tips of shiny on the ends of the pawls. Also it ran through the gears well when I first got the bike, with no strange noises. I did find the missing teeth when I wiped out the inside of the hub shell.
soooo I guess I'll be pulling apart the spare AW hub tomorrow to harvest a planet pinion gear. I'll measure the planet cage for interested SA nerds (like me). Lucky I like playing with these little guys.
The reason I thought it might work is that I read somewhere that the gear holding portion of the AB shell was the same size as an AW shell; alas 'tis not so.
The S5 shell is 60mm deep, the AB only 45mm deep
The S5 planet cage is 40mm high, the AB only 25mm
The driver, ball ring, and gear ring are the same for both, and also for the AW hub (they have the same part no's).
I suspect that the planet cage of an AW will also be 40mm high (although different part).
The AB insides were coming apart quite clean, and showing little signs of wear, until I got to the planet pinions - one of the little gears is missing 3 teeth. So weird coz it's such a clean, wholesome looking hub with just tiny tips of shiny on the ends of the pawls. Also it ran through the gears well when I first got the bike, with no strange noises. I did find the missing teeth when I wiped out the inside of the hub shell.
soooo I guess I'll be pulling apart the spare AW hub tomorrow to harvest a planet pinion gear. I'll measure the planet cage for interested SA nerds (like me). Lucky I like playing with these little guys.
08-26-17, 08:10 AM
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Never worked on a AB hub, but I've always been impressed with how clean and unworn the gears have been in the AW hubs I've had apart. Even from bikes that obviously had tons of use. In my old job I sometimes had to rebuild electric motor gear reduction boxes. The gear teeth never broke off until after they were worn thin. Maybe these gears weren't hardened properly. I'd replace all of them just in case.
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08-26-17, 10:34 AM
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08-26-17, 12:27 PM
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08-26-17, 08:25 PM
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Thanks for the offer John but I'm in Australia. I'll use the pinions from my spare AW if they're in good condition; and I can order some replacements, 4 for $4 from a bike store in Australia.
3speedslow I was reluctant to crack my 1st hub open, but the insides only have so many parts - and the parts all form 4 main sections plus the axle. I followed the SA disassembly/assembly instructions and watched the youtube clips.
gster I'll put up some photos later, I'd like to get one of them all together once I've opened the AW.
BC I'm impressed that the hub kept working normally without the teeth bits destroying anything inside the hub! - and for how many years? it's a '63 hub! I guess they just stayed stuck to the shell wall out of the way of the internals.
3speedslow I was reluctant to crack my 1st hub open, but the insides only have so many parts - and the parts all form 4 main sections plus the axle. I followed the SA disassembly/assembly instructions and watched the youtube clips.
gster I'll put up some photos later, I'd like to get one of them all together once I've opened the AW.
BC I'm impressed that the hub kept working normally without the teeth bits destroying anything inside the hub! - and for how many years? it's a '63 hub! I guess they just stayed stuck to the shell wall out of the way of the internals.
