For the love of English 3 speeds...
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All good stuff @BigChief
I will wander back into the LBS and look through the scrap metal piles he has. Might find a small bit that fits snug in the case. The owner used to build frames and did a lot of repairs. Kind of guy that made his own tools when he didn't have one for the job.
Rubber hammer, got one. Clean up went well. The OA used was low grade called barkeeps friend. Watched it close and treated it when the work was done. Turned out good!
I will wander back into the LBS and look through the scrap metal piles he has. Might find a small bit that fits snug in the case. The owner used to build frames and did a lot of repairs. Kind of guy that made his own tools when he didn't have one for the job.
Rubber hammer, got one. Clean up went well. The OA used was low grade called barkeeps friend. Watched it close and treated it when the work was done. Turned out good!
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Any suggestions on how to clean surface rust from around the inner hub flanges and inside 'corners' of a hub shell? The spokes are making it tricky to get anything in there. I might have to de-lace the wheel? It's been laced with stainless spokes that are in good condition.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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I think at least some of it was that the British steel industry was a matter of serious national pride, and by marketing their "All Steel Bicycles" Raleigh tapped into that sentiment.
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No chance today to put the shifter together. Probably happen tomorrow. We have a nice tropical storm walking over us then.
Ahhh, got ahead of myself. Still need to work the case back to shape
Here is everything all cleaned up.
Ahhh, got ahead of myself. Still need to work the case back to shape
Here is everything all cleaned up.
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Some of the premium steel and "stainless" steel Raleigh parts from the 1940s-50s are really beautifully finished.
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Looking good!
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0731170944-00 (2).jpgI'll be taking my bike home tomorrow. Probably start the restoration in two or three weeks so I'm trying to narrow down the year. Ser. # 69722. With everyone here's help I have it between 1950 and 1954. The oiler, the brazed guide the front drop is pressed not brazed and a couple of other features can be seen behind the late sixties repaint. I can not see a date on the single speed hub. As I search images and learn a little bit more I'm wondering if there are Raleighs of this vintage that are dated wrong, ie; if the hub says 55 it must be a 55, why do you believe that. I'm old enough to have owned this bike, at ten years old I would definitely change the hub if something went wrong. Question: are there any other subtle things that I should look for to narrow down the year.
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Raleighs were not produced in model year series. Changes occurred over time and we do have an accurate chronology of their order, but not specific dates. As you know, Raleigh serial numbers aren't an accurate resource for dating manufacture, so we are left with factory catalogs, ads, old photos and personal recollections. Luckily, Sturmey Archer usually stamped dates of manufacture on their IG hub shells. We 3 speeders use the hub dates as a general reference to date our bikes with the understanding that they aren't entirely accurate and it is possible that the hub may not be original to the frame. Although they usually are and if there is a wide difference of the hub date and frame features, the replaced hub is obvious. Still, hub dates are close enough that we have an idea of the age and style bike we are talking about.
edit: We can also tell if a wheel was built by Raleigh because they used a 3x over, over, over pattern that nobody else is likely to use. Most anybody that builds up a wheel will use a 3x over, over under pattern.
edit: We can also tell if a wheel was built by Raleigh because they used a 3x over, over, over pattern that nobody else is likely to use. Most anybody that builds up a wheel will use a 3x over, over under pattern.
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Last edited by BigChief; 08-29-17 at 08:48 AM.
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Raleighs were not produced in model year series. Changes occurred over time and we do have an accurate chronology of their order, but not specific dates. As you know, Raleigh serial numbers aren't an accurate resource for dating manufacture, so we are left with factory catalogs, ads, old photos and personal recollections. Luckily, Sturmey Archer usually stamped dates of manufacture on their IG hub shells. We 3 speeders use the hub dates as a general reference to date our bikes with the understanding that they aren't entirely accurate and it is possible that the hub may not be original to the frame. Although they usually are and if there is a wide difference of the hub date and frame features, the replaced hub is obvious. Still, hub dates are close enough that we have an idea of the age and style bike we are talking about.
edit: We can also tell if a wheel was built by Raleigh because they used a 3x over, over, over pattern that nobody else is likely to use. Most anybody that builds up a wheel will use a 3x over, over under pattern.
edit: We can also tell if a wheel was built by Raleigh because they used a 3x over, over, over pattern that nobody else is likely to use. Most anybody that builds up a wheel will use a 3x over, over under pattern.
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Raleigh used what they had on hand like many similar companies. The pedals did not change for many years. So anything from the 30s into the 60s will be the right part. If its got reflectors embedded that's a later pedal. The older pedals can be rebuilt and have very good bearings.
Brake pads vary depending on cable or rod brake of course but the same idea applies. You'll probably want Kool Stops anyway as they work a bit better
Headbadges are period specific and as far as I can make out, its all about where the rivet is in the heron's head...
Brake pads vary depending on cable or rod brake of course but the same idea applies. You'll probably want Kool Stops anyway as they work a bit better

Headbadges are period specific and as far as I can make out, its all about where the rivet is in the heron's head...
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Stuck at home while the tropical storm passes us so I went with what I had on hand to straighten the case. It involved a rubber hammer with thin pieces of hardwood built up inside and use of needle nose players to work the severe dip on the edge.
End result
Edit: when I was test fitting the handle and stop plate I came to the realization that there was still a dip in the plate which rubbed the trigger hard so I am still in fix mode. I think this photo will show the indent. It looks like someone took a hammer and screwdriver to the outside of the case to try and pound it down. Notice the marks on the letter M in Sturmey.
End result
Edit: when I was test fitting the handle and stop plate I came to the realization that there was still a dip in the plate which rubbed the trigger hard so I am still in fix mode. I think this photo will show the indent. It looks like someone took a hammer and screwdriver to the outside of the case to try and pound it down. Notice the marks on the letter M in Sturmey.
Last edited by 3speedslow; 08-29-17 at 03:45 PM.
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Clever work, @3speedslow!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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@3speedslow That case looks pretty square to me. Good job! There's the other shifter you mentioned with the broken spring. Do you have a replacement? I know a few of us here bought some from funthingsfound on ebay. Can't remember if you were one of them.
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Thanks all!
I actually like this type of fiddle work. Ultimately I will be more satisfied when I mount it to the handle bar and cable it up to the hub.
I actually like this type of fiddle work. Ultimately I will be more satisfied when I mount it to the handle bar and cable it up to the hub.
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3speedslow what's the brass thing in your 1st image?
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@3speedslow That case looks pretty square to me. Good job! There's the other shifter you mentioned with the broken spring. Do you have a replacement? I know a few of us here bought some from funthingsfound on ebay. Can't remember if you were one of them.
It's worth it to find a spring for my second shifter. It's from the same time period as the other one.