For the love of English 3 speeds...
09-02-17, 02:33 PM
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I've been pretty critical of Raleigh in the 70s, so I figured I'd give em credit where it's due and praise their decision to use Pletscher ESGE side stands on their deluxe models. Raleigh kickstands were never very stable. The aluminum Sir Walter stands were the worst offenders. They are particularly tippy. I suppose I have them to thank for a lot of the bent shifters I've had fun fixing, but I would never want one on my bike. So even for older Sports bikes, I swap them out for ESGEs original or not. The best ones for Sports frames are like this one with the long sides that come down from the top plate. They fit snug in the frame and don't need much torque to stay firm. These won't squash the chain stays and are the most stable single leg kick stands I've found for Raleigh Sports type bikes.
Attachment 578916
Attachment 578916
Learning...
09-02-17, 02:40 PM
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Really BigChief?
I've never had an issue with the Walter stands, they're contoured to fit the stays and never fall over, on my bikes anyway. I've got 5 of them in 26 and 28 inch sizes. The front wheel never flops and it has a proper stance imo. I've seen a number of them crack and break though.
Tire size may have a bearing or maybe there were subtle changes to frame design over the years. My current 3 Sports are all pre-'60 but I've had at least 20 later models pass through my hands.
I'd make an offer for any you come across
I've never had an issue with the Walter stands, they're contoured to fit the stays and never fall over, on my bikes anyway. I've got 5 of them in 26 and 28 inch sizes. The front wheel never flops and it has a proper stance imo. I've seen a number of them crack and break though.
Tire size may have a bearing or maybe there were subtle changes to frame design over the years. My current 3 Sports are all pre-'60 but I've had at least 20 later models pass through my hands.
I'd make an offer for any you come across
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09-03-17, 01:59 PM
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So I'm getting a little ahead of myself but it's a rainy Sunday and I've been looking at items that I'll need when I get to the 50's something Raleigh. BigChief recommended Yellow Jersey for the rear reflector so I looked at the site. I see that they have the rod brake handle bars. Are they good? The ones on ebay are twice+ the price. And also, what about tyres? Google images show a variety of sidewalls on vintage Raleighs. I want the style that bike came with. What do you call that rubber band thing that goes on the rim? Also again, I can't believe that with millions of bikes sold there aren't more catalogs I see 1948, 1951, and 1954. Thanks to all, Richard
09-03-17, 04:01 PM
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So I'm getting a little ahead of myself but it's a rainy Sunday and I've been looking at items that I'll need when I get to the 50's something Raleigh. BigChief recommended Yellow Jersey for the rear reflector so I looked at the site. I see that they have the rod brake handle bars. Are they good? The ones on ebay are twice+ the price. And also, what about tyres? Google images show a variety of sidewalls on vintage Raleighs. I want the style that bike came with. What do you call that rubber band thing that goes on the rim? Also again, I can't believe that with millions of bikes sold there aren't more catalogs I see 1948, 1951, and 1954. Thanks to all, Richard
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09-03-17, 04:49 PM
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Most of the roadster parts you see for sale, like the handlebars at yellow jersey are from India or China. I've only seen roadster parts, not the light roadster rod brake bars like your bike has. I wouldn't use them if I were restoring an English roadster myself. I think the reflector is pretty close to the old style though.
09-03-17, 05:28 PM
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plympton - the rubber band on a rim is called a rim strip. It stops the nipple heads making holes in the tube (apologies if you already know its function).
It's fine to re-use if the rubber is OK. Some c&v'ers seem to like using self adhesive fabric rim strip. If you're feeling crafty you can cut up an inner tube into a continuous strip and punch a hole in it for the valve.
Here's a 1950 Humber for sale in the Adelaide hills, Australia. It has a SA front hub with both dyno and drum brake, cool! I didn't know SA made this hub. It also has a rear 3 speed drum brake.
$_20 by arty dave armour, on Flickr
It's fine to re-use if the rubber is OK. Some c&v'ers seem to like using self adhesive fabric rim strip. If you're feeling crafty you can cut up an inner tube into a continuous strip and punch a hole in it for the valve.
Here's a 1950 Humber for sale in the Adelaide hills, Australia. It has a SA front hub with both dyno and drum brake, cool! I didn't know SA made this hub. It also has a rear 3 speed drum brake.
$_20 by arty dave armour, on Flickr
09-03-17, 07:20 PM
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Unique hub! I didn't know the modern version was based on a previous model. Cool bike.
09-03-17, 09:01 PM
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I doubt you'll find clean handlebars for your bike anytime soon. Maybe in England, but in the US an early 1950s Dawn is a very rare bike. This restoration will be a challenge. But consider...this bike is very much worth the effort. It would be far easier to restore a later more common model, but nowhere near as satisfying. If I were doing this project (and I wish I were) I would do things one piece at a time and fit expensive things like re-chroming parts as I could afford them. You really do have a wonderful bike there.
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09-04-17, 02:16 AM
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Raleigh produced specific models for Canada. I believe the white paint on the steering tube is common to these models as well as the name and decals.
Attachment 578469
Attachment 578469
Not only on Raleigh bikes, but also on its other brands. I have a late fifties Triumph Sports that has them and I have seen an early sixties Rudge with similar finish.
Peter
09-04-17, 06:47 AM
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Rescue me. I have a bike behind my shed that's been sitting there for years. It's a old Hub Cycle Co. coaster brake bike. It had "chain tyres" and I don't think it had inner tube. It's free, just need someone to rescue it. Where on the forum do I post it?
09-04-17, 07:36 AM
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Last edited by clubman; 09-04-17 at 07:44 AM.
09-04-17, 10:15 AM
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plympton - the rubber band on a rim is called a rim strip. It stops the nipple heads making holes in the tube (apologies if you already know its function).
It's fine to re-use if the rubber is OK. Some c&v'ers seem to like using self adhesive fabric rim strip. If you're feeling crafty you can cut up an inner tube into a continuous strip and punch a hole in it for the valve.
Here's a 1950 Humber for sale in the Adelaide hills, Australia. It has a SA front hub with both dyno and drum brake, cool! I didn't know SA made this hub. It also has a rear 3 speed drum brake.
It's fine to re-use if the rubber is OK. Some c&v'ers seem to like using self adhesive fabric rim strip. If you're feeling crafty you can cut up an inner tube into a continuous strip and punch a hole in it for the valve.
Here's a 1950 Humber for sale in the Adelaide hills, Australia. It has a SA front hub with both dyno and drum brake, cool! I didn't know SA made this hub. It also has a rear 3 speed drum brake.
09-04-17, 02:11 PM
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09-04-17, 02:38 PM
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A link to a document on the VCC.
https://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...20Library).pdf
https://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...20Library).pdf
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I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
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09-04-17, 05:46 PM
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Most of the roadster parts you see for sale, like the handlebars at yellow jersey are from India or China. I've only seen roadster parts, not the light roadster rod brake bars like your bike has. I wouldn't use them if I were restoring an English roadster myself. I think the reflector is pretty close to the old style though.
09-04-17, 06:01 PM
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Very nice dweenk, thanks for posting, I love seeing the old catalogues and manuals. Apart from the 60's Raleigh/SA wheel-building instuctions...jeebers that did my head in 
To be fair I was quite tired when I sat down to build the wheel - but it was my first time lacing a BF hub with large flange/small flange. I got it right the 3rd time...just had to read the instructions really really carefully
To be fair I was quite tired when I sat down to build the wheel - but it was my first time lacing a BF hub with large flange/small flange. I got it right the 3rd time...just had to read the instructions really really carefully
09-04-17, 09:53 PM
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09-06-17, 04:14 PM
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Was someone looking for replacement bars for a DL-1? I just found these as I was cleaning out my basement:
Chrome is in decent shape; otherwise, wysiwyg. Yours for the cost of shipping.
Chrome is in decent shape; otherwise, wysiwyg. Yours for the cost of shipping.
09-06-17, 04:45 PM
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I received the replacement spring from @BigChief so got some time today to pop the case open on the 50's shifter. Rivets were tight but tri-flow, a little time to soak and one or two firm whacks with the 1 1/16 punch brought them out. All parts were oily but cleaned up nice. Case is nice and straight, thank goodness!
Will reassemble tomorrow while my knee recovers from my hard riding today. One place I went was back to the LBS with the dark bins of forgotten parts. Out from them came an NOS Schwinn SA trigger cable with accessories. i got a good price!
Will reassemble tomorrow while my knee recovers from my hard riding today. One place I went was back to the LBS with the dark bins of forgotten parts. Out from them came an NOS Schwinn SA trigger cable with accessories. i got a good price!
09-07-17, 06:51 AM
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I received the replacement spring from @BigChief so got some time today to pop the case open on the 50's shifter. Rivets were tight but tri-flow, a little time to soak and one or two firm whacks with the 1 1/16 punch brought them out. All parts were oily but cleaned up nice. Case is nice and straight, thank goodness!
Will reassemble tomorrow while my knee recovers from my hard riding today. One place I went was back to the LBS with the dark bins of forgotten parts. Out from them came an NOS Schwinn SA trigger cable with accessories. i got a good price!
Will reassemble tomorrow while my knee recovers from my hard riding today. One place I went was back to the LBS with the dark bins of forgotten parts. Out from them came an NOS Schwinn SA trigger cable with accessories. i got a good price!
09-07-17, 06:55 AM
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Robin Hood
A nice project for some one.
Listed on Toronto Kijiji @ $159.00
A 1957 Robin Hood 3 speed with a leather saddlle. I'm tempted but I'm only buying tall frames from now on.
$_2bfdhtr7.jpg
$_dsgrhye.jpg
$_vnmhky27.jpg
$bfyju7_27.jpg
Listed on Toronto Kijiji @ $159.00
A 1957 Robin Hood 3 speed with a leather saddlle. I'm tempted but I'm only buying tall frames from now on.
$_2bfdhtr7.jpg
$_dsgrhye.jpg
$_vnmhky27.jpg
$bfyju7_27.jpg
Last edited by gster; 09-08-17 at 07:30 AM.
09-07-17, 07:21 AM
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09-07-17, 09:55 AM
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I was very excited to get that cable. Made the cap to a great day. Was so happy I didn't mind the rain pelting me as I raced home on my bike.
09-07-17, 08:43 PM
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The whole wheel should work. Any Raleigh Sports would have the dual purpose rims you need for your rod brakes. The catalogs do list a regular AW 3 speed hub as an option, but they don't show the Dawn with a rear carrier. The Brooks B66 saddle shown in this 1951 catalog is still in production.
I had no idea Raleigh used stainless spokes way back then. Wow!!
09-08-17, 06:30 AM
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