For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I think it's original. The transfers are still on the down tube and chainguard. It's just a very rare model. Wish I knew the story behind it.
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I'm making a shifter cable for my green Sports project bike using the 3/32" brass tubing. Thought I'd post a picture.
Here's the tools I use. I put the JB Weld on and gave it a couple of slight crimps.
end.JPG
Here's the tools I use. I put the JB Weld on and gave it a couple of slight crimps.
end.JPG
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Yes, you can see where I slid the tube up and down and gave it a few turns to make sure it was filled with JB. The JB Weld holds tight to the cable because of all the serrations. I put a slight crimp in the brass before the JB sets as an extra measure. The hardened JB would have to pass through the smaller space at the crimp to slip. I used to silver braze these, but it isn't necessary. The JB Weld is just as strong if not stronger since the cable doesn't need to be heated. The tubing works for the barrel adjuster as well as the trigger shifter, so there is no need for a pinch bolt adapter. I've been using this system for years now and it is reliable and easy to do. I just buy regular shifter inner cable and cut the end off with a cable cutter and either reuse the old casing or cut a piece of new to fit.
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Last edited by BigChief; 09-19-17 at 08:20 PM.
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I used a pair of Tektro R559s on my Rudge Sports scorcher project. This is supposed to be a hot rod style. It already has a alloy case AW hub. Aluminum front wheel and a CR-18 rim is planned for the rear. I figured the aluminum brakes would fit nicely with the scorcher theme. On the front, it works fine, but the housing compression over the length of the rear brake uses up too much of the lever travel. I was hoping the new cable would settle in but I've been riding it a while now and it hasn't changed much. I was careful to square the housing ends and they are fitted to new ferrules. So in my opinion, the Raleigh lever and the R559 just isn't a good match for the rear brake. I'll leave one on the front, but the rear will be getting an old steel caliper with Kool Stops.
I also used the Tektro R559 calipers on my Sports but replaced the Raleigh levers with Shimano BL-R550 levers with cables. The brakes feel like a modern bike with good control. Before the purist scream I should mention that it was not my intention to restore the bike but to update it with more modern components. Only thing original to the bike is the frame, hubs and a few nuts.
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Have not posted in awhile but I read the threads often to keep up with everything.
I also used the Tektro R559 calipers on my Sports but replaced the Raleigh levers with Shimano BL-R550 levers with cables. The brakes feel like a modern bike with good control. Before the purist scream I should mention that it was not my intention to restore the bike but to update it with more modern components. Only thing original to the bike is the frame, hubs and a few nuts.
I also used the Tektro R559 calipers on my Sports but replaced the Raleigh levers with Shimano BL-R550 levers with cables. The brakes feel like a modern bike with good control. Before the purist scream I should mention that it was not my intention to restore the bike but to update it with more modern components. Only thing original to the bike is the frame, hubs and a few nuts.
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Now do I keep her as is with just safety/ maintenance repairs done, try to restore her or I dunno. Would hate to ruin a rare model if that's he case.
I'll have better pics tomorrow after I wash her. For now here is my Flickr link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/142806785@N03/
Last edited by Scipunk; 09-20-17 at 10:57 AM. Reason: Typo repair added Flickr link
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Yes, levers with more travel or a closer pivot point would solve the problem I think, but I'm going to try noglider's idea of cable stops. I have access to a lathe, so I'm going to make some steel stops and hold them in place on the top tube with Sturmey Archer shifter cable stop bands. I figure that eliminating 2 feet of cable housing should firm things up. We'll see. It will be an interesting experiment in any case.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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Yes, you can see where I slid the tube up and down and gave it a few turns to make sure it was filled with JB. The JB Weld holds tight to the cable because of all the serrations. I put a slight crimp in the brass before the JB sets as an extra measure. The hardened JB would have to pass through the smaller space at the crimp to slip. I used to silver braze these, but it isn't necessary. The JB Weld is just as strong if not stronger since the cable doesn't need to be heated. The tubing works for the barrel adjuster as well as the trigger shifter, so there is no need for a pinch bolt adapter. I've been using this system for years now and it is reliable and easy to do. I just buy regular shifter inner cable and cut the end off with a cable cutter and either reuse the old casing or cut a piece of new to fit.
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I was doing some work on the scorcher today. When I looked at the 73' shifter I noticed that both the trigger and barrel ends are crimped brass tubes!
The cable I have in the Schwinn bag has lead ends.
The cable I have in the Schwinn bag has lead ends.
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Picked up this '62 Sports earlier today to rehab for a friend. Looks pretty darn original, including cables, housing, pedals, grips, (lousy) saddle. Tires are more recent replacements and seem to be in pretty good shape:

It wasn't far from home, so I hauled it back on my trailer (though it is in rideable condition):

It wasn't far from home, so I hauled it back on my trailer (though it is in rideable condition):

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That picture looks so right! Congrats on the score. I'm sure your friend will love it.
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Amazing condition for a 55 year old bike. Really nice find. That's a S22L model. It came with lower cost fittings then the deluxe DL22L
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Yup, standard Dunlop rims, in particular, though these should clean up nicely. I had a men's version of this bike some years back with a TCW hub and a front brake caliper. I could really lock up the rear wheel with that coaster.
Last edited by nlerner; 09-20-17 at 09:38 PM.
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Posted this over in the Craigslist thread but maybe a member in the New Orleans area may be interested. The James Bicycle, unusual name but appears to be pretty common English 3 speed components and construction. Apparently "some assembly required".
https://neworleans.craigslist.org/bop...303774711.html
https://neworleans.craigslist.org/bop...303774711.html
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Just got the cable made for my '73. Still have the brake cables to do.
73sports03.jpg
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Last edited by BigChief; 09-21-17 at 04:09 AM.
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I'm making a shifter cable for my green Sports project bike using the 3/32" brass tubing. Thought I'd post a picture.
Here's the tools I use. I put the JB Weld on and gave it a couple of slight crimps.
Attachment 581398
Here's the tools I use. I put the JB Weld on and gave it a couple of slight crimps.
Attachment 581398

The old crimpers made by HPK for Bell Systems are extremely useful and widely available. This one is $13 on ebay now:

Note that this is model B. There's also a model D which is useful for making Raleigh brake cables.
Anyway, the model B above is the perfect tool to crimp a bronze fishing line sleeve onto a Sturmey Archer gear cable. It works for both ends. If I recall correctly, you want fishing line sleeve size no 3. Crimp it a few times, this way and that way, and it is permanent.
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Finally joined the club! I've always been attracted to English 3-speeds, but never owned one. Finally went on a hunt & after scouring CL throughout the Southeast & searching eBay, forums, etc. I actually stumbled on this one at a local bike shop on consignment!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:


She hasn't been in service for a while, tires are badly dry rotted (not badly enough to keep me from riding to work yesterday) & she had an embarrassing Huffy tractor saddle fitted. Was repainted long long ago, but they masked most of the decals. I added the B67 (I know, 66 would've been more correct, but LBS had the 67 on the shelf) & have a pair of World Tours, some Kool Stop continentals & a few other little things on the way to help freshen her up!!! Scored some grips & cable housings on eBay, but will have to evaluate when they show up. I have a line on a clean seatpost & clamp bolt, those will be good. Need to find a frame pump & a clamp style lower peg - this one was broken off before I was born. Also have my eye out for a Lucas King of the Road bell - I *NEED* a good English bell for this bike!!!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:


She hasn't been in service for a while, tires are badly dry rotted (not badly enough to keep me from riding to work yesterday) & she had an embarrassing Huffy tractor saddle fitted. Was repainted long long ago, but they masked most of the decals. I added the B67 (I know, 66 would've been more correct, but LBS had the 67 on the shelf) & have a pair of World Tours, some Kool Stop continentals & a few other little things on the way to help freshen her up!!! Scored some grips & cable housings on eBay, but will have to evaluate when they show up. I have a line on a clean seatpost & clamp bolt, those will be good. Need to find a frame pump & a clamp style lower peg - this one was broken off before I was born. Also have my eye out for a Lucas King of the Road bell - I *NEED* a good English bell for this bike!!!

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Hey, if it works, it works, right?
but there's an easy way... and yes, we've been over this before....
The old crimpers made by HPK for Bell Systems are extremely useful and widely available. This one is $13 on ebay now:

Note that this is model B. There's also a model D which is useful for making Raleigh brake cables.
Anyway, the model B above is the perfect tool to crimp a bronze fishing line sleeve onto a Sturmey Archer gear cable. It works for both ends. If I recall correctly, you want fishing line sleeve size no 3. Crimp it a few times, this way and that way, and it is permanent.

The old crimpers made by HPK for Bell Systems are extremely useful and widely available. This one is $13 on ebay now:

Note that this is model B. There's also a model D which is useful for making Raleigh brake cables.
Anyway, the model B above is the perfect tool to crimp a bronze fishing line sleeve onto a Sturmey Archer gear cable. It works for both ends. If I recall correctly, you want fishing line sleeve size no 3. Crimp it a few times, this way and that way, and it is permanent.
Thanks for this, as a new owner of 2 Raleigh Sports (64 and 73) and a 69 Triumph, i am gonna be replacing quite a few cables...lol. I do a lot of car audio / electronics i wonder if i have a set of crimps that will work or since my grandfather worked for Bell South as a line technician, i wonder if he doesn't have a set of these already.
Btw do you know what size tubing the brakes use? Also do you just buy the cable and then twist it, or is are there premade cables you need to modify?
@BigChief where did you get that chain for your sport, i love gold accents!
Last edited by Scipunk; 09-21-17 at 06:13 AM.
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Finally joined the club! I've always been attracted to English 3-speeds, but never owned one. Finally went on a hunt & after scouring CL throughout the Southeast & searching eBay, forums, etc. I actually stumbled on this one at a local bike shop on consignment!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:


She hasn't been in service for a while, tires are badly dry rotted (not badly enough to keep me from riding to work yesterday) & she had an embarrassing Huffy tractor saddle fitted. Was repainted long long ago, but they masked most of the decals. I added the B67 (I know, 66 would've been more correct, but LBS had the 67 on the shelf) & have a pair of World Tours, some Kool Stop continentals & a few other little things on the way to help freshen her up!!! Scored some grips & cable housings on eBay, but will have to evaluate when they show up. I have a line on a clean seatpost & clamp bolt, those will be good. Need to find a frame pump & a clamp style lower peg - this one was broken off before I was born. Also have my eye out for a Lucas King of the Road bell - I *NEED* a good English bell for this bike!!!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:


She hasn't been in service for a while, tires are badly dry rotted (not badly enough to keep me from riding to work yesterday) & she had an embarrassing Huffy tractor saddle fitted. Was repainted long long ago, but they masked most of the decals. I added the B67 (I know, 66 would've been more correct, but LBS had the 67 on the shelf) & have a pair of World Tours, some Kool Stop continentals & a few other little things on the way to help freshen her up!!! Scored some grips & cable housings on eBay, but will have to evaluate when they show up. I have a line on a clean seatpost & clamp bolt, those will be good. Need to find a frame pump & a clamp style lower peg - this one was broken off before I was born. Also have my eye out for a Lucas King of the Road bell - I *NEED* a good English bell for this bike!!!

I live in Western Mass but have been to Wellesley quite a few times. Small world.
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To make a Raleigh brake cable, use a regular barrel-end brake cable for the lever end, and crimp a spoke nipple onto the other end. In theory you're only supposed to crimp things like that once, but just to be sure I like to squeeze the crimper onto it several times, from different angles. Just be sure you get it in the right place, 'cuz once it's on there, it's staying.
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@rhm wow that's really simple, thanks for the info! Are spoke nipples all the same?
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@rhm wow that's really simple, thanks for the info! Are spoke nipples all the same?
But no, to properly answer your question, there are aluminum ones, and steel ones, and all kinds of funky ones that go on various non-traditional spokes. Avoid anything like that. The ordinary brass ones are perfect.
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