For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Well, no. But practically speaking, nearly all garden variety spoke nipples are chromed brass and are close enough to the same size to work for this purpose. If you see a junked bike wheel in the trash and clip a few spokes out of it and take the nipples, odds are close to 100% they'll work fine. Don't try to build a wheel with them, though.
But no, to properly answer your question, there are aluminum ones, and steel ones, and all kinds of funky ones that go on various non-traditional spokes. Avoid anything like that. The ordinary brass ones are perfect.
But no, to properly answer your question, there are aluminum ones, and steel ones, and all kinds of funky ones that go on various non-traditional spokes. Avoid anything like that. The ordinary brass ones are perfect.
One more question, my 64 is missing it's shifter cable which has to go through a guide and then a jockey wheel but i have zero clue how it attaches to the chain end.
This is how i got it, so i am missing the other piece that's attached to the cable for adjusting? I'll be updating from the grip shifter to a thumb one and it's a AW hub so hopefully its all good.
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See i would have not known any of that, i do build a lot of models etc so I'm no stranger to brass tubing, but if i can snag some from a wheel, free is free...lol
One more question, my 64 is missing it's shifter cable which has to go through a guide and then a jockey wheel but i have zero clue how it attaches to the chain end.
This is how i got it, so i am missing the other piece that's attached to the cable for adjusting? I'll be updating from the grip shifter to a thumb one and it's a AW hub so hopefully its all good.
One more question, my 64 is missing it's shifter cable which has to go through a guide and then a jockey wheel but i have zero clue how it attaches to the chain end.
This is how i got it, so i am missing the other piece that's attached to the cable for adjusting? I'll be updating from the grip shifter to a thumb one and it's a AW hub so hopefully its all good.
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The Park Tools cable cutters (CN-10) have a ferrule crimping slot built into them that might be the tool most guys already have in their kit.
Cold forged, heat treated steel handles for strength
Precision ground cutting jaws for a clean cut on every cable
Built in crimper for cable end caps and forming hole for reforming housing ends and housing ferrules
Wire latch holds handles together when not in use
Cold forged, heat treated steel handles for strength
Precision ground cutting jaws for a clean cut on every cable
Built in crimper for cable end caps and forming hole for reforming housing ends and housing ferrules
Wire latch holds handles together when not in use
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The Sturmey Archer cable has a barrel end. The barrel threads onto the threaded rod you see, at the end of the chain in your photo. If you want to make your own cable (with the crimper and bronze sleeves as mentioned) you need an old Sturmey Archer cable to reuse the pieces. If you don't have an old cable, might as well buy a new 'universal' one. New ones are not generally as nice as the old ones, but they're easy to find.
Vintage STURMEY ARCHER Ribbed 3 Speed Shifter Cable w/ Anchor NOS | eBay
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I just used the wire cutter portion of the needle nose pliers. You want to be careful with any crimp. Not even sure if it's necessary really. If the crimp makes the tube too fat, it will be a too tight fit in the shifter and get sticky in the barrel adjuster. That's where Sturmey Archer went wrong in the 60s when they started crimping tubes on the cables instead of casting the small ends on. You want the barrel adjuster to be able to spin freely. I've noticed the modern SA cables have gone back to the small cast on ends like the 50s cables had. Good idea.
Just got the cable made for my '73. Still have the brake cables to do.
Attachment 581638
Just got the cable made for my '73. Still have the brake cables to do.
Attachment 581638
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The Park Tools cable cutters (CN-10) have a ferrule crimping slot built into them that might be the tool most guys already have in their kit.
Cold forged, heat treated steel handles for strength
Precision ground cutting jaws for a clean cut on every cable
Built in crimper for cable end caps and forming hole for reforming housing ends and housing ferrules
Wire latch holds handles together when not in use
Cold forged, heat treated steel handles for strength
Precision ground cutting jaws for a clean cut on every cable
Built in crimper for cable end caps and forming hole for reforming housing ends and housing ferrules
Wire latch holds handles together when not in use
Would something like this be suitable if i cannot locate a original?
Vintage STURMEY ARCHER Ribbed 3 Speed Shifter Cable w/ Anchor NOS | eBay
Vintage STURMEY ARCHER Ribbed 3 Speed Shifter Cable w/ Anchor NOS | eBay
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Finally joined the club! I've always been attracted to English 3-speeds, but never owned one. Finally went on a hunt & after scouring CL throughout the Southeast & searching eBay, forums, etc. I actually stumbled on this one at a local bike shop on consignment!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:

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The last thing I had to do to finish my 73 Sports was mount the front brake and make up a cable. When I took the front brake off, I noticed the mounting bolt was bent. "wonder how that happened" Now I know how it happened. It happened at the factory. When they mounted the brake, they noticed how crooked the mounting hole in the fork was drilled. Instead of replacing the fork they bolted the brake on and bent it up. Well, enough for today. I'll have to think on this.
xfork.JPG
xfork.JPG
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OK so i know own 4 vintage 3 speeds and a 1950 tricycle cause my brother has a 60's Triumph with headlight (ladies) and offered it to me ...lol
It's in pretty good shape, i'll grab pics once i pick it up this weekend...lol
It's in pretty good shape, i'll grab pics once i pick it up this weekend...lol
Last edited by Scipunk; 09-21-17 at 12:57 PM.
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The last thing I had to do to finish my 73 Sports was mount the front brake and make up a cable. When I took the front brake off, I noticed the mounting bolt was bent. "wonder how that happened" Now I know how it happened. It happened at the factory. When they mounted the brake, they noticed how crooked the mounting hole in the fork was drilled. Instead of replacing the fork they bolted the brake on and bent it up. Well, enough for today. I'll have to think on this.
"Don't fix it if it ain't broke."

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So we have a Monday holiday and I should be able to get the last 2 coats of paint on my DL-1 over the next 3 days. Which leaves me pondering decal placement. Did the DL-1 have this 'high tensile steel tubing' decal somewhere?
IMG20170913070336 by arty dave armour, on Flickr
These grips arrived last week Bicycle Handlebar Grips Brown Retro-Style Fixed Gear vintage Japanese Bike Grips | eBay
- they are VERY nice, made in Japan by OGK. $16 Australian with free delivery
. I asked the supplier if white grips are available and they have ordered some. They'll let me know when they've arrived & will add these to their ebay page. The other colour they have is a honey brown and apparently there is a darker 'coffee' brown in this grip style.

These grips arrived last week Bicycle Handlebar Grips Brown Retro-Style Fixed Gear vintage Japanese Bike Grips | eBay
- they are VERY nice, made in Japan by OGK. $16 Australian with free delivery

Last edited by arty dave; 09-21-17 at 06:30 PM.
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@rhm, a few months ago, I bought one of those crimping tools because you mentioned them here. I had a chance to use it, though I've already forgotten where I used it. In any case, thank you. It's a serious tool. It has four or five pivots for lots of leverage, and it's heavily built, so yeah, it delivers a lot of force in a small area.
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Finally joined the club! I've always been attracted to English 3-speeds, but never owned one. Finally went on a hunt & after scouring CL throughout the Southeast & searching eBay, forums, etc. I actually stumbled on this one at a local bike shop on consignment!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:


She hasn't been in service for a while, tires are badly dry rotted (not badly enough to keep me from riding to work yesterday) & she had an embarrassing Huffy tractor saddle fitted. Was repainted long long ago, but they masked most of the decals. I added the B67 (I know, 66 would've been more correct, but LBS had the 67 on the shelf) & have a pair of World Tours, some Kool Stop continentals & a few other little things on the way to help freshen her up!!! Scored some grips & cable housings on eBay, but will have to evaluate when they show up. I have a line on a clean seatpost & clamp bolt, those will be good. Need to find a frame pump & a clamp style lower peg - this one was broken off before I was born. Also have my eye out for a Lucas King of the Road bell - I *NEED* a good English bell for this bike!!!
1951 Model 23 Sports Tourist w/ original recepit:


She hasn't been in service for a while, tires are badly dry rotted (not badly enough to keep me from riding to work yesterday) & she had an embarrassing Huffy tractor saddle fitted. Was repainted long long ago, but they masked most of the decals. I added the B67 (I know, 66 would've been more correct, but LBS had the 67 on the shelf) & have a pair of World Tours, some Kool Stop continentals & a few other little things on the way to help freshen her up!!! Scored some grips & cable housings on eBay, but will have to evaluate when they show up. I have a line on a clean seatpost & clamp bolt, those will be good. Need to find a frame pump & a clamp style lower peg - this one was broken off before I was born. Also have my eye out for a Lucas King of the Road bell - I *NEED* a good English bell for this bike!!!

Using the inflation calculator, this $66.00 bicycle in 1951 would cost $620.00 today.
It was a serious purchase back then.
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So we have a Monday holiday and I should be able to get the last 2 coats of paint on my DL-1 over the next 3 days. Which leaves me pondering decal placement. Did the DL-1 have this 'high tensile steel tubing' decal somewhere?
IMG20170913070336 by arty dave armour, on Flickr
These grips arrived last week Bicycle Handlebar Grips Brown Retro-Style Fixed Gear vintage Japanese Bike Grips | eBay
- they are VERY nice, made in Japan by OGK. $16 Australian with free delivery
. I asked the supplier if white grips are available and they have ordered some. They'll let me know when they've arrived & will add these to their ebay page. The other colour they have is a honey brown and apparently there is a darker 'coffee' brown in this grip style.

These grips arrived last week Bicycle Handlebar Grips Brown Retro-Style Fixed Gear vintage Japanese Bike Grips | eBay
- they are VERY nice, made in Japan by OGK. $16 Australian with free delivery

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@arty dave
Where did you get the decals? Are they stickers or water transfer? I am gonna need some for my 64 sports
Where did you get the decals? Are they stickers or water transfer? I am gonna need some for my 64 sports

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I don't know how well it worked. There was no cable connected to the brake when I got it. I can't see how it would have been very stable. The heavy washer on the back is contoured to fit the round fork crown. With the whole unit tipped back, the washer wouldn't seat on the crown correctly. It's the hole at the back that's high. I don't see any way around this except elongating it downward. Can't believe this error made it onto a finished bike.
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I don't know how well it worked. There was no cable connected to the brake when I got it. I can't see how it would have been very stable. The heavy washer on the back is contoured to fit the round fork crown. With the whole unit tipped back, the washer wouldn't seat on the crown correctly. It's the hole at the back that's high. I don't see any way around this except elongating it downward. Can't believe this error made it onto a finished bike.
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Scipunk - Yeah vinyl stickers from ebay, I think about $18 Australian + free postage. They seem to be quite good quality from what I can tell. There's also a set available from the UK that is silver where this set is gold. I prefer the gold

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Nice I look forward to seeing them installed. Now to see if they have them for mine lol. I also prefer gold as well.
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Thanks Big Chief - I didn't really like the font of the original decals so I got these ones which I think are late 50's early 60's? Not sure, but I think I've seen them on photos of DL-1's. I should really have kept a folder of images I've seen showing decals - now I'll have to go trawling again

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I have two DL1s. This one here has the transfers used in the late 60s to about 1971. The transfers on the downtube and chainguard are exactly the same. The seatpost has 2 stick on metallic strips with the heron in the middle. This same heron was also on the rear fender. It has a "Made In England" on the top side, in the middle of the top tube. There was no trace of a high tensile sticker on this one. The originals used varnish transfers. They aren't waterslides. The modern vinyl transfers look good to me. Some makers are better than others.
dl.jpg
dl.jpg
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Last edited by BigChief; 09-22-17 at 05:34 AM.
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@rhm, a few months ago, I bought one of those crimping tools because you mentioned them here. I had a chance to use it, though I've already forgotten where I used it. In any case, thank you. It's a serious tool. It has four or five pivots for lots of leverage, and it's heavily built, so yeah, it delivers a lot of force in a small area.
It really is an amazing little tool, very well made. They must be over 50 years old by now, and I haven't yet seen one that was damaged. If they were being made today at that quality level they'd cost well over $100 but we can still pick up used ones for under $20.
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I've come to my decision on how to deal with the fork on my green Sports. To do a neat job, I'll need to take it apart again, get all greasy, clean it up and bring it over to my old shop and use the milling machine to elongate the hole on the back side downward. I'm figuring that the forward friction on the pads will want to force the mounting bolt downward at the rear, so I don't need to reinforce the elongated hole at the top. The bolt and contoured washer should hold it in place anyway. Yup, these old British bikes can have their quirks.
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