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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 09-25-17, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Day 2 of a nasty cold has me slowed down. Got one of the 501 pedals I have to look at. The nub which sticks up from the cage for some reason hits the crank arm and won't move past it. I will take it apart and see if the axle is bent. Really want to use these but could go to the block ones which came with it. I see a set is for sale here but wow! No can do..

Shifter cable is hooked, brakes are next. I found my Raleigh kickstand and decided to install.
MKS make very good rubber pedals at a reasonable $25.00 -30.00
mks-3000r-rubber-block-pedals-3.jpg

Last edited by gster; 09-26-17 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 09-25-17, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Nice to see that the lights are still on and hope everyone is well.

Have just started to get back on a bike that does not have a motor and think a certain old Raleigh Sports needs to get out for a fall ride.
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Old 09-25-17, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
If you have matching gouges on the other side I'd guess someone had a Wald basket mounted on that bike at some point. It's probably safe enough but I'm sure someone will bring expertise to this discussion.
I'll look, but it seems to be the one side, also the curved part is confusing...lol you might be right though
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Old 09-25-17, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
MKS make very good rubbers pedal at a reasonable $25.00 -30.00
So true, but before I would go that route, I would use some of the block Raleigh pedals I have. I just like the look of the old steel Raleigh pedals.
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Old 09-25-17, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Miller72
Dying to know!!
Did you break the bank and buy it!?
If I was just 8/9 states closer I would already have it LOL!!
The gal selling it is out of the country right now but a friend of hers is storing it locally, amazingly close by the house here in Minneapolis and will meet that friend of hers around dinner time tommorrow. I am fairly certain I will be overcome by my weakness and have to make this purchase.
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Old 09-26-17, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Day 2 of a nasty cold has me slowed down. Got one of the 501 pedals I have to look at. The nub which sticks up from the cage for some reason hits the crank arm and won't move past it. I will take it apart and see if the axle is bent. Really want to use these but could go to the block ones which came with it. I see a set is for sale here but wow! No can do..

Shifter cable is hooked, brakes are next. I found my Raleigh kickstand and decided to install.
I always have a bike in the living room.
My wife doesn't mind, it's an improvement over a motorcycle....
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Old 09-26-17, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by plympton
Attachment 582142

Attachment 582143

Attachment 582144Well back from Maine and since we have had 4 days of tropical storm weather on Cape Cod I started to take the Raleigh apart. I am calling it a 1952 (serial number no help) in honor of the owners name inscribed on the crank arm. I searched him on ancestry.com and he was born in 1952 which is consistent with the changes made to the bike in the 60's when he would have been about 12yo. There are a few nuts and bolts that are not period but over all everything looks right. Rookie mistake was buying the BikeHand tool kit. I didn't need a thing in it. I have just ordered two Park bottom bracket tools [can't get the BB off. I am concerned about a video I saw on removing the BB. I bent 2 pipe clamps (yes pipe clamps) trying to remove cotter. I finally used heat. Now the video shows a plastic race. If so it's probably NG now. I've tried three different paint strippers. The repaint came off easy. The factory paint not so much. Back to Maine today to winterize cabin back to bike next week.
I've never found plastic or metal caged bearings in a British BB. Always loose bearings
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Old 09-26-17, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
I've never found plastic or metal caged bearings in a British BB. Always loose bearings
Raleigh did start using 7 bearing plastic cages in the late 60s -early 70s, but not always. The rusted out 69 Sports I salvaged parts from had them, but the green 73 Sports I'm working on now didn't. He's referencing a BB rebuild video on you tube where the bike had them. In the video, he puts them back in instead of using 11 loose. The guy in the video also removes the fixed cup using the friction method which is a lot of work and not necessary. No idea why he would bother to do that or use 7 bearings instead of the much better 11.

Last edited by BigChief; 09-26-17 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 09-26-17, 05:51 AM
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Yesterday evening I got my Falcon three speed out of my bike locker, pumped up the tire (story told elsewhere), and rode off. A hundred yards later I stopped for a traffic light. When the light went green I started pedaling and something went PANG! and my pedals spun freely. It turned out the circlip had popped off the driver, and the cog had slipped out to the groove where the circlip was supposed to be. I had to take the wheel off to get it back on, pain in the neck. But why had this happened? There are two 1/16" spacers, and one cog, so there really should be plenty of room for the circlip, but it seemed to be just barely hanging on. This was the first time the circlip had popped off, though, and the hub has been on this bike for several years.

Today on the way to the station, it happened again. Again I had to take the wheel off to get the circlip back on. I removed one of the 1/16" spacers, so the hub is now noisier than before, but the circlip fits better.
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Old 09-26-17, 05:57 AM
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I've had a circlip pop off mid ride, too, [MENTION=73614]rhm[/MENTION]. It was on a bike that had never had that problem before, and has never had it again since (my '49 Raleigh Clubman). Circlip gremlins, clearly.
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Old 09-26-17, 10:09 AM
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I've noticed on some hubs that between the dust cap, cog and the 2 spacers, that channel for the circlip gets pretty crowded and on others, it's almost too loose. I guess there's some variation on where the circlip channel is cut on the driver. This last '72 AW I worked on seemed very tight. I can't really tell if the clip is seated all the way down in the groove because it's pressed so tight against the cog.
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Old 09-26-17, 01:14 PM
  #13912  
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I have a pair of aluminized steel fenders that fit a 26 x 1 3/8 wheel. The rear fender has no stay and is pretty clean. The front fender has the stay and some rust coming through the aluminized coating. They are free for cost of shipping to someone on this forum.
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Old 09-26-17, 01:37 PM
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So my wife says "this is how it starts!" Just picked up for $40.00. This Sturmey has no date and notice the oiler. Other features my help date it. I haven't looked for serial number yet. What do you think? 0926171432-00.jpg

0926171429-00.jpg

0926171431-02.jpg

0926171433-00.jpg

0926171430-01.jpg
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Old 09-26-17, 01:40 PM
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Here's a couple more pics. 0926171447-00.jpg

0926171449-01.jpg

0926171431-00.jpg
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Old 09-26-17, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by plympton
So my wife says "this is how it starts!" Just picked up for $40.00. This Sturmey has no date and notice the oiler. Other features my help date it. I haven't looked for serial number yet. What do you think? Attachment 582356

Attachment 582357

Attachment 582358

Attachment 582359

Attachment 582360
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say mid 50's?

The oiler is new to me, but that chainguard is something i want...lol I believe they were used until the 60's , also i am jealous as that bike here would be probably $150+
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Old 09-26-17, 01:48 PM
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You may have a mongrel Raleigh, but I will not claim to be an authority. I see that the chain case is not fully enclosed. Obviously the grips are new. The stem and bars may be replacements (can't tell from the photos). The oiler port on the bottom bracket makes it older, as do the decals on the frame. Someone will surely weigh in on the age.
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Old 09-26-17, 01:52 PM
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Wow! You got yourself a winner. No date hub has me stumped. Did not think it was way back old. Nice script on the chaincase.

Let me jump and say late 40's? Edit: history says this is a 1950-3 year shifter.

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Old 09-26-17, 02:09 PM
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This is what I am having to deal with. The left pedal seems to have suffered some damage at some time. I can't even remember what these came on, no surprise there!

On the crank it hits the side. So I took it apart, cleaned everything. Put the bare spindle on the crank and did not see any distortion, looked like a perfect 90 deg.
Put the cage in my trusty workmate and filed down the side nub until it looked like it would clear. Once assembled, it being mounted showed good clearance now. I hit the bare rusty area with converter, then will paint.

Hopefully these will not be wonky.
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Old 09-26-17, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by plympton
Where do you find these bikes? Killer find. This dates to before the brazed on pully guide lug. It's only a question of how much before. Shifters can be replaced, but this style of shifter was advertised December 1949

1949 sa ad by Billy Bones, on Flickr
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Old 09-26-17, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
You may have a mongrel Raleigh, but I will not claim to be an authority. I see that the chain case is not fully enclosed. Obviously the grips are new. The stem and bars may be replacements (can't tell from the photos). The oiler port on the bottom bracket makes it older, as do the decals on the frame. Someone will surely weigh in on the age.
Yes. The grip, front rim and saddle are wrong. The serial number is raised not inscribed 12781 ARL? I think, without .glasses
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Old 09-26-17, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by plympton
Yes. The grip, front rim and saddle are wrong. The serial number is raised not inscribed 12781 ARL? I think, without .glasses
This might be of help, but i don't see anything with ARL at the end:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html#serial
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Old 09-26-17, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Where do you find these bikes? Killer find. This dates to before the brazed on pully guide lug. It's only a question of how much before. Shifters can be replaced, but this style of shifter was advertised December 1949

1949 sa ad by Billy Bones, on Flickr
Looking at the Headbadge web site this probably is a 1949. ser. #12781 ARL, can't tell if that is an L. I can find others of this vintage but they want 100 to 200 for them. here are two near by $125 and $25000U0U_4YvMfroZRQV_1200x900.jpg

superbe54-big.jpg
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Old 09-26-17, 06:00 PM
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[MENTION=466518]plympton[/MENTION] where are you located? Prices here vary from 125 to 300+ >.>
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Old 09-26-17, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
[MENTION=466518]plympton[/MENTION] where are you located? Prices here vary from 125 to 300+ >.>
New England, Maine.
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Old 09-26-17, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by plympton
New England, Maine.
Well no kidding, were down in Massachusetts! We are talking about moving to Maine someday
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