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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 09-28-17, 09:23 PM
  #13976  
adventurepdx
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
Thank good I thought I was crazy not sure how Harris didnít show up first but I found that silly price here:

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Delt.../dp/B009P3LDMM
And take a look where they're shipping from.
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Old 09-28-17, 09:30 PM
  #13977  
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Hahah how I missed that I don’t know. So the wife was like cream tires will look **** after a while, go with the panaracers lol

These will be on both my sports of which the 73 will be getting customized while the 64 will be renovated.

Can I use oxalic acid on wheels with tires? I assume so since it says use rubber gloves but not all rubber is the same.
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Old 09-28-17, 10:29 PM
  #13978  
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Originally Posted by gster
You just need a cable and a stop.
Do you have the dual shifters attached.
These throttle shifters are cool but somewhat rare
Attachment 582514
Thanks for showing me those shifters there Kinda cool, they would be noticeable "bling" that I am not familiar with on these English 3-speed type bikes.

So are those shifters the what would be originally equipped on the 67'-68' Dunelt 5-speed model?

Does that shifter set mount on the handlebar neck?

Do they need there own specific cables?

I did see that same shifter set on ebay for $35 today that is a reachable price.
I heard they may be troublesome but original equip. would be my preference. The bike has no other aftermarket with the exception of the brake cables. I am told/suggested the SA 3-speed standard trigger shifter will work just fine for left shift function on the.

I still need to deal with a bellcrank cable that appears a larger threaded thumb adjuster barrel than the 3-speed side of the hub.
Does anyone know off hand the thread spec for the bellcrank cable/lever?

I also stumbled across a bellcrank on ebay and it was $88....Thats a lot.
IMG_3385.jpg

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Old 09-28-17, 11:56 PM
  #13979  
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Google Mark Stonich, his business is called Bikesmith - he can sort you out with a much cheaper bellcrank for an S5
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Old 09-29-17, 01:06 AM
  #13980  
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Originally Posted by arty dave
Google Mark Stonich, his business is called Bikesmith - he can sort you out with a much cheaper bellcrank for an S5
Tuesday I was searching for cotters due to a crank alignment issue on a Raleigh and googled & visited the Bikesmith sight amongst others saw what I needed to know. Mark's shop is 5 blocks down the street from me. I guess I'v seen the Bikesmith out there offering items & services but had no clue he was working out of Minneapolis. I e-mailed he called right back-it was less than five minutes to peddle over to his place with my dog. I Puchased a couple of custom fitted Raleigh cotters from him and drooled some over his vast & unique collection of bikes and an examind a 5-speed set up of his or one of them and he offered tips for me.
I hadn't made this 5-speed purchase I planned for an hour or so later.
He informed me I was lucky he didn't see this Dunelt 5-spd on Craigslist or he would have beat me to it.
I sat on this ad for 4 weeks I think it was never renewed.
solex 054.jpg
So I know about him now, Very nice people. I have noticed this planter in front of his shop 100's of times.

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Old 09-29-17, 03:42 AM
  #13981  
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Great story! It would be cool to see his collection & I'm sure he'll be able to help with your S5 set-up. Mark and his website were very helpful when I first started working with the older 3 and 5 speed SA hubs. When I ordered from him I forgot to ask him for a push rod, so I made one from a nail of the right diameter I'm fairly sure that's what Mark does too.

That reminds me, rmh what was wrong with that 5 speed diagram?
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Old 09-29-17, 05:22 AM
  #13982  
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Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
Thanks for showing me those shifters there Kinda cool, they would be noticeable "bling" that I am not familiar with on these English 3-speed type bikes.

So are those shifters the what would be originally equipped on the 67'-68' Dunelt 5-speed model?

Does that shifter set mount on the handlebar neck?

Do they need there own specific cables?

I did see that same shifter set on ebay for $35 today that is a reachable price.
I heard they may be troublesome but original equip. would be my preference. The bike has no other aftermarket with the exception of the brake cables. I am told/suggested the SA 3-speed standard trigger shifter will work just fine for left shift function on the.

I still need to deal with a bellcrank cable that appears a larger threaded thumb adjuster barrel than the 3-speed side of the hub.
Does anyone know off hand the thread spec for the bellcrank cable/lever?

I also stumbled across a bellcrank on ebay and it was $88....Thats a lot.
Attachment 582673
I have the same bell crank as yours and the threads are the same as the right side indicator chain. A regular pinch bolt/barrel adjuster should work. On the Sprite, originally the cables had housings that went from the stick shifters along the top tube then down the seat stays to cable stops on the seat stays with no guide wheel. But no matter which shifter/cable routing method you choose, you will have to make custom length cable housings. If you don't already have cable cutters, it's time to get one.
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Old 09-29-17, 05:38 AM
  #13983  
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Originally Posted by arty dave
Yeah you don't want the Oxalic acid near aluminium or galvanised (think spokes) or nickel plate for very long. Same goes for phosphoric acid and the rust converter type treatments. I had some paint loss from steel, and some deep etching into a cast zinc part using phosphoric acid. But for chrome and rusted steel - go for it. Soak times will vary depending on the temperature and the depth of the rust. The paint loss didn't bother me on those particular parts as I intended to repaint them - just something to be aware of. I think (?) oxalic is safe with paint but it would be better if someone else weighed in on this.

Also consider straight up vinegar - you may have to soak it for longer but it is much safer for you and your lungs. I soaked some rusty parts in vinegar for 2 days, but this was in winter, so in summer it would work faster. You still could probably leave it soaking all day without worrying about your parts too much. My dad did all his de-rusting with lemon juice because the neighbors had an overhanging lemon tree I haven't seen naval jelly here in Australia but I believe it's a good product for de-rusting?
Thanks for the input. I spent my 1 week R&R from Viet Nam in Perth. Nice country nice people. I will only use the OA for chrome parts then. Small steel parts I will wire wheel off the heavy rust and soak in Vinagar (never tried that) and all the painted parts will be stripped. I see on the web that the 49 chain wheel is zinc so the buffing wheel is all that will get. I'll have to look closely at the tool pouch that came on the 52 to see if the clasp is chrome or plated. I don't think OA would be good for plated. Richard
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Old 09-29-17, 06:03 AM
  #13984  
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Originally Posted by plympton
Thanks for the input. I spent my 1 week R&R from Viet Nam in Perth. Nice country nice people. I will only use the OA for chrome parts then. Small steel parts I will wire wheel off the heavy rust and soak in Vinagar (never tried that) and all the painted parts will be stripped. I see on the web that the 49 chain wheel is zinc so the buffing wheel is all that will get. I'll have to look closely at the tool pouch that came on the 52 to see if the clasp is chrome or plated. I don't think OA would be good for plated. Richard
Another option you have for a Raleigh this old is gun barrel bluing. A lot of the small parts like cable guide wheels, cable clips and small nuts and bolts were finished this way on the older bikes. Sometime in the 50s, they changed to that dull gray finish. Not sure what that is. Parkerizing maybe.
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Old 09-29-17, 06:25 AM
  #13985  
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Another option you have for a Raleigh this old is gun barrel bluing. A lot of the small parts like cable guide wheels, cable clips and small nuts and bolts were finished this way on the older bikes. Sometime in the 50s, they changed to that dull gray finish. Not sure what that is. Parkerizing maybe.
I used to have some gun blueing somewhere (used to have a 38 five shot), now where did I put that?
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Old 09-29-17, 07:30 AM
  #13986  
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
Hahah how I missed that I donít know. So the wife was like cream tires will look **** after a while, go with the panaracers lol

These will be on both my sports of which the 73 will be getting customized while the 64 will be renovated.

Can I use oxalic acid on wheels with tires? I assume so since it says use rubber gloves but not all rubber is the same.
No, you will have to take the tire and spoke strip off the rim. It's also not a good idea to get the spokes themselves in the OX, ok if they are stainless steel.
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Old 09-29-17, 10:00 AM
  #13987  
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Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
Tuesday I was searching for cotters due to a crank alignment issue on a Raleigh and googled & visited the Bikesmith sight amongst others saw what I needed to know. Mark's shop is 5 blocks down the street from me. I guess I'v seen the Bikesmith out there offering items & services but had no clue he was working out of Minneapolis. I e-mailed he called right back-it was less than five minutes to peddle over to his place with my dog.
I kindly ask you to reference post 13897 of this thread, back on page 556.

(runs away fast)
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Old 09-29-17, 10:06 AM
  #13988  
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
I kindly ask you to reference post 13897 of this thread, back on page 556.

(runs away fast)
Seriously. When speaking of bicycles you should know the difference between "peddle" and "pedal." You should anyway, but especially here.
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Old 09-29-17, 11:55 AM
  #13989  
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Well, here's the official finished" photo of the green 73 Sports. Man, this bike had quite a few bugs. No wonder the guy just wanted to be rid of it. On top of the misaligned brake hole in the fork, it also needed some cold setting. I'm not even sure where, but with the front wheel axle bottomed out in the dropouts, it was tipped off to the left. I suppose I could have milled the dropout slot a little higher on the left leg, but all the bugs in the fork inspired me to go onto ebay and sure enough, there was a tall, green Raleigh fork for a total of 27 bucks. I took a chance on it and it worked out. Perfectly good fork and even a pretty good color match. So now, the bike rides perfectly, the hub runs quietly and shifts smoothly. I installed regular brake levers with new cables, Kool Stops and a mid 60s trigger shifter, new chain, all new bearings and a 20T cog. The only bug left is from when whoever laced up the CR-18 started in the wrong place and left spokes crossed over the air valve. I'm not going to bother with fixing it. So, it wasn't a good deal money wise, but there's another good green 23" Sports on the road.

73 sports800 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
73 sports02 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
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Old 09-29-17, 02:23 PM
  #13990  
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
Really? Hmm good to know? lol

I have to admit i am a bit terrified to take this bike (the 64) apart because I've never fully tore down a old bike, just newer MTB and BMX but i was also young and wasn't paying for it out of pocket...lol

I know to keep a eye on the bearings and all that also i want to open the BB cause there seems to be a slight amount of play. So that's gonna be fun.

Anyone near western mass wanna come down and check her out? PM me if so im near the CT northern border also and can travel
Lube jobs aren't that tough. Cotterpins might be the only hiccup. Headsets are straightforward.grease all the races after cleaning. Mine had 24 bearings each cup. Put them in the fork race, then load up the top race. Put the fork into the headtube and screw down the top cup. Adjust and set.
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Old 09-29-17, 02:57 PM
  #13991  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Lube jobs aren't that tough. Cotterpins might be the only hiccup. Headsets are straightforward.grease all the races after cleaning. Mine had 24 bearings each cup. Put them in the fork race, then load up the top race. Put the fork into the headtube and screw down the top cup. Adjust and set.
Ok thats not terrible.

I was gonna get the Phil's grease and oil, but is there a grease i can use that i can get locally? I have CRC synthetic grease i use for my Subaru caliper slides would that work?
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Old 09-29-17, 03:29 PM
  #13992  
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Originally Posted by arty dave
Very nice! I've seen this somewhere before...ratrodbikes.com?
Is that a Gimondi crankset? I've got one waiting to go on a Dyno cruiser. It's patiently waiting for me to finish the DL-1 before it gets some resto-rat-love.
edited to say: Just looked at your other bikes, cool Schwinns! That tomato red really suits the cruiser.
Thanks, and yes it is a Gimondi. I was quite surprised and impressed by the level of polish that FSA brought it to, for being an inexpensive crank.
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Old 09-29-17, 03:51 PM
  #13993  
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
Ok thats not terrible.

I was gonna get the Phil's grease and oil, but is there a grease i can use that i can get locally? I have CRC synthetic grease i use for my Subaru caliper slides would that work?
Lowes is local to most places so I went there. I use this. I'm not saying it's the best...lord know I would not want to start another grease war, but I use this.
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Old 09-29-17, 03:53 PM
  #13994  
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It's already been said but I have to say it again... Beautiful bike Looks very much like the almond Linus.

The phony fillet brazing and spindly tubing of the Varsity and Continental is actually quite beautiful when given a chance. And they are amazing frames for casual cruising.

When I first got into vintage bikes a few years these were my favorite to find and fix. That's almost funny to admit now.

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
The answer is here. A good read too.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/varsity.html

I disagree with the lump of rock description. Both of mine roll nicely, absorb bumps and vibration well, handle and steer well, no creaks, and tip the scale at ~26.5 lbs. A quality saddle and tires makes a big difference, but the frames themselves are straight, strong, and reliable.


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Old 09-29-17, 04:10 PM
  #13995  
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Originally Posted by Lovenutz
It's already been said but I have to say it again... Beautiful bike Looks very much like the almond Linus.

The phony fillet brazing and spindly tubing of the Varsity and Continental is actually quite beautiful when given a chance.
Thanks for the compliment. I agree that the frames can be cleaned up nicely. Schwinn was bad about leaving nasty slag on the bottom braket/stay junction and the stays where they join the rear dropouts. That's the first thing I clean up after cold setting the rear triangle and grinding off the unnecessary bits. A file, a Dremel, and wire wheel and you can make them look decent. Not pretty, but improved.

Here is the brown bike's industrial cousin, a Jumbo '77 Varsity in black 'n blue.

Apologies for clogging a British 3-speed thread with American single speed photos. But it's really all about the comfy upright ride, right?




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Old 09-29-17, 04:42 PM
  #13996  
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Miller72-In reference to; # 13879 I Did pay the asking price $100. Didn't bother with a haggle effort . My Pc screwed & wouldn't support the forum up for days & I thought I responded to you.
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Old 09-29-17, 05:18 PM
  #13997  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Lowes is local to most places so I went there. I use this. I'm not saying it's the best...lord know I would not want to start another grease war, but I use this.
Haha can't blame you there! I'll double check my stuff i believe its ceramic grease, but im good with anything.

Now onto lubricant, i know a lot swear by Phil's but again is there a suitable alternative that is trust worthy?
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Old 09-29-17, 05:30 PM
  #13998  
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You mean to lube a chain? I use dry lube. Or do you mean, lube a hub? I use 3 in 1 machine oil, blue bottle. It's important not to use anything with vegetable oil in it.
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Old 09-29-17, 05:46 PM
  #13999  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
You mean to lube a chain? I use dry lube. Or do you mean, lube a hub? I use 3 in 1 machine oil, blue bottle. It's important not to use anything with vegetable oil in it.
Yeah i have dry lube, i meant for the hub. Ill grab a bottle tomorrow then im gonna take the 73 hub apart and figure out why its making noise when i coast
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Old 09-29-17, 05:52 PM
  #14000  
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
Yeah i have dry lube, i meant for the hub. Ill grab a bottle tomorrow then im gonna take the 73 hub apart and figure out why its making noise when i coast

Check the bearings on the non drive side first. They might need grease. Hubs sometime need oil doses and miles before they start behaving right when they have sat for awhile. Check the grease, load with oil and ride it for awhile.
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