...the wire leader crimps they sell at fishing supply outlets and larger sporting goods stores work very well for cable crimps and come in a number of size diameters. I've been using the smallest ones for derailleur cables and a size up from that for brake cables, crimping them with an old Bell Telephone service crimper (there are a ton of them available online on e-bay in a couple of sizes, because nobody uses the for much any more, and they were in the bag of every home phone service guy who worked for the phone company for 40 years.)

You can also use them to reconstruct SA 3 speed cables with new housing and cable using the original trigger and threaded barrel if you're interested in all original.

That's the approach that I've been taking after reading about it on BF (perhaps from @rhm). Here are the leaders (size A3):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...0fa562e4_c.jpg

And the Bell Systems crimper:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...c57a3ecb_c.jpg

I crimp several times using the smaller opening, making sure the lead is narrow enough to fit in a trigger opening and/or a barrel end. No slippage yet.

I haven't tried these, but even with the 3/32 brass tubing, if I crimp too hard, they will bind in the adjuster barrel. I want that barrel to spin freely so it can adjust without twisting the cable. I used to silver braze shifter cable like I still do with the ball end 60s type Raleigh brakes, but I've found the JB Weld to be totally reliable for shifters.

This is the lower rear fender mount & fastener on a 1960 DL22 & DL22L. This pair of bikes also have a steel spring loaded dust cap on the oil port on sprocket side the BB. The 1962 has the push in tethered plastic cap. The 1962 lower fender has the snap in spring clip. Nuts & bolts are always more fun & don't mar up the paint.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...1728-local0&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...1728-local2&zw

This handlebar neck is off of a 1969 DL24 Superbe. Its a bad angle to see very well but it is different & tapers and has more contour than the one you have pictured. It's marking of Sir Walter is stamped down the stem below the top lock nut on the head set out of sight. I'll get a better picture to edit in. It has excellent chrome finishing quality after clean up. It angles the bar clamp up just a bit, or it appears to. It Probably is a casting.

SirMike1983 posted this link earlier in the thread on a 70ish Sprite 5-speed you probably are already aware of. This is a better pic of the same neck I pictured here.
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2017/10/side-by-side-1958-raleigh-sports-and.html

I acquired this bent frame 69 Superbe with all the bells & whistles mostly dissassembled Dyna equipped all original except fo maybe the Dunlaps that died or old age but could have been orginal I don't know. The chrome stem tubes w/caps held air.
I think Raleigh obviously made parts fancier & more standard features for the senior models in the lineup.


https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...safe&zwhttp://

Oh I will no worries :) the planning has begun!
Toughest part is keeping it functional and safe. Should be a fun adventure!

I really like the contoured Sprite stems of the late 60s. Didn't know they used them on Superbes too. Very elegant stem and it's true that even if some things got cheaper, Raleighs had excellent chrome all the way to the end. Too bad they're so rare. You would think all the deluxe models would get them. This stem is older. Not sure how much older. The brake lever on the right is stamped patent too. I'm collecting parts for a project I have in mind. Not sure how historically accurate it will be in the end, but my plan is to recreate a shiny new early post war Sports. This has replaced my previous daydream of building an old fashioned club bike out of a chro-mo framed road bike. I'm at the age now where a more sedate roadster suites me better.
Notice how the braze is filled and ground off at the joint. Nice work. They didn't bother with this step on the later stems.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...ebc6c03f_b.jpgstem02 by Billy Bones, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...dd1ff0f4_b.jpgbrake01 by Billy Bones, on Flickr

Back for a little more help. Yesterday I was able to put in a day on the early 50's Raleigh restoration. The frame, front fender and chain guard are stripped, cleaned and ready. Now I am moving on to the rims. The two rims on this bike are Sturmey Archer (the rims on the 49 are Raleigh) I thought that they were supposed to be Westbrook. So I'm thinking, clean the rims with Coke, soap and water then Oxylic acid (wish I had a 30" round tube) the clean water and dry. Then the buffing wheel, right? So what about the spokes and spoke nuts, just clean and steel wool? What about the axles? I will take them apart and service but should they go in the acid too? I have other parts, like rod brakes and crank and stuff for the acid but I won't be getting to those now. How long can the acid stand?

Westrick is a nickname for this rim pattern. Raleigh designed it so it could be used with either rod or caliper brakes. The official name was special design rims. So, it combines Westwood and Endrick. Sturmey Archer was owned by Raleigh.

Seems like I have one of those computers that can't spell.

Got a nice little package from @clubman :
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/...b3249d1d_b.jpgInspection axle but 64 Raleigh Sports by David Ashe, on Flickr

Not sure what the o-rings are for though :)

I can't believe they got in there. I need them for this.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ib...=w1185-h888-no

Your Rakeigh probably had one of this type chain guide originally

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...1600-local0&zw

You steampunkers need these cable pulleys I make

Use WD40 or similar with a brass brush and bronze or copper wool on the rims if still laced. Oxalic axid may dissolve the rust-resistant coating on older spokes.

Old duck here, what's steampunk?

Ever see Terry Gilliam's Brazil? Pseudo Victorian/Industrial age fashion movement, usually featuring leather, brass, tattoos with scientific overtones. Google away.

Thanks. I am taking the spokes off today. Need to find a toddlers swimming pool to soak the rims in. Only 100% chrome in oxylic acid, I think. Hubs, crank, arms, pedals, rod brake parts, handle bars, fork race parts, etc. Not the spokes but what about the spoke nuts are they chrome?

DL-1 for $125
 

Poor photos, but it looks clean. Not too far from Baltimore/Annapolis/Southern PA. Someone stop me from buying this.

https://easternshore.craigslist.org/...348636397.html

Yes... yes i do! PM me the info please :D

I caved and called the seller. He already had a potential buyer, so I'll have another chance or not on Thursday.

that is very nice

steam·punk

a genre of science fiction that has a historical setting and typically features steam-powered machinery rather than advanced technology.

a style of design and fashion that combines historical elements with anachronistic technological features inspired by science fiction.
"the essence of steampunk is homage to vintage fashion with a modern, sassy twist"

you see steampunk at thinks like the Make Faire

think lots of victorian brass filagree and details, carbide lamps, etc

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...7e6c3a483f.jpg


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_hVOW2U7K4-M/SX...srtgdsfgbd.jpg

This looks like the 22" frame. Nice roadster. I would have never guessed I would become so fond of these bikes, but most of the miles I ride these days are on my DL1

Does anyone know what brake end lead shape these use? I have these which fit but want to know what originally were used.