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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 10-17-17, 06:24 PM
  #14301  
plympton
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To Dweenk, that's the bike i'm working on although that one is in better shape.

1st pic. I think the rims will clean up very well. Only broke 2 spokes and 4 nuts, not bad for 65 year old rims.

next pics. So I thought, why not take apart the 49 rims. I view 4 utube videos on how to take apart a S/A aw hub none of them like this:

1017171543-00.jpg

1017171749-01.jpg

1017171751-00.jpg

1017171752-00.jpg

1017171754-00.jpg
once again sorry for the flip phone images
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Old 10-17-17, 06:24 PM
  #14302  
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Cable end
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Old 10-17-17, 06:29 PM
  #14303  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
steamĚpunk

a genre of science fiction that has a historical setting and typically features steam-powered machinery rather than advanced technology.

a style of design and fashion that combines historical elements with anachronistic technological features inspired by science fiction.
"the essence of steampunk is homage to vintage fashion with a modern, sassy twist"

you see steampunk at thinks like the Make Faire

think lots of victorian brass filagree and details, carbide lamps, etc



Thanks for the explain!


Thanks for the explain!
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Old 10-17-17, 06:29 PM
  #14304  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Does anyone know what brake end lead shape these use? I have these which fit but want to know what originally were used.
Hmmm, your photo only half loaded. Are you talking about these?
60sbrakecables.jpg
Oh...I see it now. Never seen that one before. Must be from before my time
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Last edited by BigChief; 10-17-17 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 10-17-17, 07:29 PM
  #14305  
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# 14302 post has the cable ends I have used. If anyone has the brakes I showed, would those be the ones to use. When I tried the others most would not fit where the ends go.
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Old 10-17-17, 09:15 PM
  #14306  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
# 14302 post has the cable ends I have used. If anyone has the brakes I showed, would those be the ones to use. When I tried the others most would not fit where the ends go.
Oh sorry, I see now. I missed the picture of the brake levers. I have a pair of levers just like those in my box of salvaged bike stuff. I just checked them with a modern cable and I think regular barrel shaped brake cable ends would work OK in these.
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Old 10-18-17, 07:50 AM
  #14307  
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Originally Posted by plympton
To Dweenk, that's the bike i'm working on although that one is in better shape.

1st pic. I think the rims will clean up very well. Only broke 2 spokes and 4 nuts, not bad for 65 year old rims.

next pics. So I thought, why not take apart the 49 rims. I view 4 utube videos on how to take apart a S/A aw hub none of them like this:

Attachment 584810

Attachment 584811

Attachment 584812

Attachment 584813

Attachment 584814
once again sorry for the flip phone images
Yeah, you have the old style AW hub with the cog threaded on the driver. This one also has the two flats to remove the rest of the hub from the shell instead of the notches which means you'll need a spanner wide enough to fit and can't use a simple punch. You even have all of the original gun barrel blue nuts and washers. Very nice! Thanks for the update.
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Old 10-18-17, 10:07 AM
  #14308  
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Yeah, you have the old style AW hub with the cog threaded on the driver. This one also has the two flats to remove the rest of the hub from the shell instead of the notches which means you'll need a spanner wide enough to fit and can't use a simple punch. You even have all of the original gun barrel blue nuts and washers. Very nice! Thanks for the update.
On the left side (?) is it righty tighty or righty loosey? Which way is it threaded? The rest is apart. The shifter is going to need work. The four stops are H, N, L, and B. I thought that it was a 3 but it's a B.

1018171138-01.jpg

1018171133-01.jpg

1018171133-00.jpg

1018171132-00.jpg
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Old 10-18-17, 11:18 AM
  #14309  
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Oh, you've got it apart. All done then. It looks like it will clean up nicely. Now you should be able to pry the caps off the wheel bearings with a screwdriver. There's one on the drive side driver and one on the other side in the hub shell. Nice work! The only thing that looks odd to me is the the clutch spring is usually wound so the top coil is square. I guess it doesn't matter, but it looks like it might not be an original part.
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Old 10-18-17, 11:19 AM
  #14310  
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Oh sorry, I see now. I missed the picture of the brake levers. I have a pair of levers just like those in my box of salvaged bike stuff. I just checked them with a modern cable and I think regular barrel shaped brake cable ends would work OK in these.
Thanks. I might try one of the modern cables again. Right now I will run the Rudge with these. I like the brass ring that cradles the lead end. The modern ends I tried were too big for the cable slot.
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Old 10-18-17, 11:35 AM
  #14311  
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Originally Posted by plympton View Post
On the left side (?) is it righty tighty or righty loosey? Which way is it threaded? The rest is apart. The shifter is going to need work. The four stops are H, N, L, and B. I thought that it was a 3 but it's a B.


Attachment 584882
Great! This is just the shifter you want for your restoration. Looks to be in good shape too. When they first came out with the redesigned trigger, they planned on only one for both 3 and 4 speed hubs. Didn't last long. They went back to dedicated shifters. Don't know why. Maybe they didn't work well on 4 speeds, I don't know, but they work fine on 3 speed AW hubs. Not sure what B stands for. Bottom maybe? I know N is for "normal" Odd isn't it? N on a shifter always stood for neutral in my book. It's just another Raleigh quirk.
here's an ad for the new shifter in Dec. 1949

1949 sa ad by Billy Bones, on Flickr
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Old 10-18-17, 12:32 PM
  #14312  
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Originally Posted by Scipunk
I do like those a lot. Let me ask, are the D versions that different? They are so much less expensive...lol
The steel ones are bit tricky to find. The D is a very nice pedal though!

Originally Posted by BigChief
So here's another feature question. This stem has a different shape than the ones I'm used to seeing. It's necked down to the clamp, stamped with "patent number" instead of Sir Walter and somebody took the time to grind the joint smooth at the back. A bit less boxy and more elegant than the later versions I think. I've never had a Raleigh with this style stem. If anybody here has one, I'd love to know the hub date. Thanks

stem01 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
That stem is very similar to the one on my 1935 Sports...
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Old 10-18-17, 01:10 PM
  #14313  
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So the part that is still left on the hub, before I breakout the big hammer, does it thread left or right?
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Old 10-18-17, 04:51 PM
  #14314  
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The only thing I see left to take apart in the photos are the wheel bearing retainer caps. But, this hub is older than the ones I'm familiar with. A person that would know better than me is the post right above. @Salubrious He has a 1935 Sports and just came through with the answer to a question I had about a stem. No AW hub I've ever worked on had any LH threads.
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Last edited by BigChief; 10-18-17 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 10-18-17, 04:55 PM
  #14315  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
The steel ones are bit tricky to find. The D is a very nice pedal though!



That stem is very similar to the one on my 1935 Sports...
Thanks! This stem may be older than what ever frame I come up with for my project, but I'll use it anyway. I like it
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Old 10-18-17, 05:02 PM
  #14316  
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Originally Posted by plympton
So the part that is still left on the hub, before I breakout the big hammer, does it thread left or right?
Leave it there. This is the 'Left hand Ball cup' you're talking about? Think of it as the fixed cup on your bottom bracket, only more so Leave it there, clean it in place.
I think they can be removed, but they are really easy to clean leaving them in place. I haven't read or heard of anyone removing them, even for a complete strip-down clean & re-build.
I enjoy pulling these hubs apart and re-building them.

Last edited by arty dave; 10-18-17 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 10-18-17, 05:33 PM
  #14317  
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Originally Posted by arty dave
Leave it there. This is the 'Left hand Ball cup' you're talking about? Think of it as the fixed cup on your bottom bracket, only more so Leave it there, clean it in place.
I think they can be removed, but they are really easy to clean leaving them in place. I haven't read or heard of anyone removing them, even for a complete strip-down clean & re-build.
I enjoy pulling these hubs apart and re-building them.
Thanks: That seems like the way to go. The hub is in VG shape and a wash and buff ought to do it.
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Old 10-18-17, 05:48 PM
  #14318  
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This is DL1 in MPLS CL are asking $100 https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...281396445.html
This one is just a couple miles from the house.


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Old 10-18-17, 05:57 PM
  #14319  
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Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
This is DL1 in MPLS CL are asking $100 https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...281396445.html
Wow
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Old 10-18-17, 07:20 PM
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Haven't had quite as much time w/ the new '51 as I'd like, but I have ticked several little things off my "to-do" list and she's riding very nicely!!!



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Old 10-18-17, 09:17 PM
  #14321  
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Marfield brand? This one looks like a very clean mid to late 60's Raleigh product in Chicago area.

https://offerup.com/item/detail/362438262/?ref=Search

marfield.jpg

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Old 10-18-17, 09:48 PM
  #14322  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Does anyone know what brake end lead shape these use? I have these which fit but want to know what originally were used.
This is a "lever and swivel link" system. Rather than having the cable end rest in the lever itself, the lever is riveted to a swiveling link with a hole and slot in it to house the cable end. The levers you show are usually from the 1960s when we find them in the US now. For some reason, they were popular in the 1960s for lower-end road bikes. But the lever and link system is much older and goes back to at least the 1940s or earlier.

Schwinn used the lever and swivel link system, which I believe they partially copied from British designs.



The levers that you show I also have a pair of on a 1941 New World. They resemble the much more expensive Schwinn levers and use the same general system, at least enough for purposes of rehabilitating the New World. For $20 I was able to buy levers that look enough like Schwinn levers for this project. A pair of original Schwinn levers is easily $100+.



These post-war English-made lever and swivel parts seem to like the basic, generic "mushroom" ended cables. I actually use the generic "Bell Pit Crew" cables on my Schwinn and English levers of this design.

I've also seen the levers you show on Schwinn Varsity and Continental "touring" configuration bikes from the 1960s.
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Old 10-19-17, 06:16 AM
  #14323  
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1953 Eaton Commander 3 Speed

An interesting bike for sale here in Toronto.
A 1953 Eatons Commander. Built by Hercules with a 3 speed Herc-u-matic hub and shifter.
Priced at $60.00.
$_5bvhnz9.jpg

$_5fdgth9.jpg

$_5sacf9.jpg

$_fdb59.jpg
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Old 10-19-17, 06:45 AM
  #14324  
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Originally Posted by gster
An interesting bike for sale here in Toronto.
A 1953 Eatons Commander. Built by Hercules with a 3 speed Herc-u-matic hub and shifter.
Priced at $60.00.
Nice one and thanks. I've always wondered who built my wife's Commander roadster and now I know.

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Old 10-19-17, 06:52 AM
  #14325  
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Originally Posted by clubman
Nice one and thanks. I've always wondered who built my wife's Commander roadster and now I know.

They appear to have the same chainguard.
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