For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Has anyone come up with an elegant fix for adapting new brake cables to work with the old style calipers?
I've seen some rough solutions with a small nut and bolt but nothing that looks clean.
Those proprietary NOS cables are in short supply and often very expensive.
I've been swapping out the old calipers for the newer versions but would like to maintain originality where possible.
I've seen some rough solutions with a small nut and bolt but nothing that looks clean.
Those proprietary NOS cables are in short supply and often very expensive.
I've been swapping out the old calipers for the newer versions but would like to maintain originality where possible.
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Not that far back on this thread I mentioned the use of a torch and solder which uses 95% antimony and 5% silver- that's how the original cables were made. I had to replace a frayed cable on my 1935 'Model Sports' which uses drum brakes front and rear. Usually the hardware is still serviceable even though the cable itself is not. So if you are careful with measurement of lengths, you can fabricate a cable from new materials easily enough.
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Confound all ye reckless 3speeders! All your talk of "scorchers" has me working on a 1972 Raleigh built Supercycle I picked up earlier this summer. Some sort of step through (relabelled Peugeot?) donated the unique bars. The mudguards were cleaned and straightened and copious amounts of surface rust cleaned off. A Japanese front wheel was available so it was installed. The Schwalbe Delta Cruisers are overkill, but were attained for a reasonable $40.
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Confound all ye reckless 3speeders! All your talk of "scorchers" has me working on a 1972 Raleigh built Supercycle I picked up earlier this summer. Some sort of step through (relabelled Peugeot?) donated the unique bars. The mudguards were cleaned and straightened and copious amounts of surface rust cleaned off. A Japanese front wheel was available so it was installed. The Schwalbe Delta Cruisers are overkill, but were attained for a reasonable $40.
The bars and grips look like old Bridgestones.
Is there a red reflector in the ends?
Bridgestones were also sold under the Supercycle name.
p1090101.jpg
p1090108.jpg
t2ec16f0e9s37fbl2brhtyoi7tg48_20.jpg
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I've always liked those gold Supercycles.
The bars and grips look like old Bridgestones.
Is there a red reflector in the ends?
Bridgestones were also sold under the Supercycle name.
Attachment 585796
Attachment 585798
The bars and grips look like old Bridgestones.
Is there a red reflector in the ends?
Bridgestones were also sold under the Supercycle name.
Attachment 585796
Attachment 585798
The grips are labelled Bridgestone and do have the reflector in the end. The donor bike had CLB brakes and Solida cranks which led me to believe it was not Japanese. Perhaps the originals were drops and later changed to Bridgestone.
I have a '76 Supercycle Excalibur made by Bridgestone. It is a wonderful ride and one of my all time favorite bikes.
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I'm getting Schorcher embemed on my brain, will these handle bars be appropriate? This is a good complete bike the neighbor wheeled out to her trash cans so it needs to come apart.
I don't even know what a Scorcher is...
I don't even know what a Scorcher is...
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Confound all ye reckless 3speeders! All your talk of "scorchers" has me working on a 1972 Raleigh built Supercycle I picked up earlier this summer. Some sort of step through (relabelled Peugeot?) donated the unique bars. The mudguards were cleaned and straightened and copious amounts of surface rust cleaned off. A Japanese front wheel was available so it was installed. The Schwalbe Delta Cruisers are overkill, but were attained for a reasonable $40.
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Just an hour on the bikes today. Cleaned a few parts. I need a tool and I don't know what to ask for. How do I disassemble this hub? I got the outer ring off ok but the secondary ring with two slots opposite each other. It's a single speed which I'm not going to use but i want to rebuild it anyway. Is it also threaded left and what,s the tool?
5027254550_2b437d78ea.jpg This is a google image, mine still has the spokes behind the chain ring.
5027254550_2b437d78ea.jpg This is a google image, mine still has the spokes behind the chain ring.
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It's just making a hot rod out of a utility bike. A bit like taking the family 51 Mercury, gutting the interior and painting it candy apple red.
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Just an hour on the bikes today. Cleaned a few parts. I need a tool and I don't know what to ask for. How do I disassemble this hub? I got the outer ring off ok but the secondary ring with two slots opposite each other. It's a single speed which I'm not going to use but i want to rebuild it anyway. Is it also threaded left and what,s the tool?
Attachment 585814 This is a google image, mine still has the spokes behind the chain ring.
Attachment 585814 This is a google image, mine still has the spokes behind the chain ring.
Anyone else?
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Just an hour on the bikes today. Cleaned a few parts. I need a tool and I don't know what to ask for. How do I disassemble this hub? I got the outer ring off ok but the secondary ring with two slots opposite each other. It's a single speed which I'm not going to use but i want to rebuild it anyway. Is it also threaded left and what,s the tool?
Attachment 585814 This is a google image, mine still has the spokes behind the chain ring.
Attachment 585814 This is a google image, mine still has the spokes behind the chain ring.
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Nice looking golden scorcher project! I think you will be pulled into the rebel trap! Are you feeling reckless yet?
Nice looking golden scorcher project! I think you will be pulled into the rebel trap! Are you feeling reckless yet?
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Sooo, lace it back on to the rim and buy that 2 prong tool and maybe?
A couple of more questions about spokes. I removed the spokes from a single speed hub, a 3 speed hub and a front hub and all the spokes are the same length, 284mm. I can't find this length for sale with a quick search. The spokes off the 3 speed hub, 1949, seem to zincier (is that even a word). The nipples (spoke lugs) on the front wheel are longer then those on the 2 rear wheels. Any significance in that?
1024172028-00.jpg
A couple of more questions about spokes. I removed the spokes from a single speed hub, a 3 speed hub and a front hub and all the spokes are the same length, 284mm. I can't find this length for sale with a quick search. The spokes off the 3 speed hub, 1949, seem to zincier (is that even a word). The nipples (spoke lugs) on the front wheel are longer then those on the 2 rear wheels. Any significance in that?
1024172028-00.jpg
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@browngw
Nice looking golden scorcher project! I think you will be pulled into the rebel trap! Are you feeling reckless yet?
Nice looking golden scorcher project! I think you will be pulled into the rebel trap! Are you feeling reckless yet?
scorchern0825-1-72dpi.jpg
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Sooo, lace it back on to the rim and buy that 2 prong tool and maybe?
A couple of more questions about spokes. I removed the spokes from a single speed hub, a 3 speed hub and a front hub and all the spokes are the same length, 284mm. I can't find this length for sale with a quick search. The spokes off the 3 speed hub, 1949, seem to zincier (is that even a word). The nipples (spoke lugs) on the front wheel are longer then those on the 2 rear wheels. Any significance in that?
Attachment 585829
A couple of more questions about spokes. I removed the spokes from a single speed hub, a 3 speed hub and a front hub and all the spokes are the same length, 284mm. I can't find this length for sale with a quick search. The spokes off the 3 speed hub, 1949, seem to zincier (is that even a word). The nipples (spoke lugs) on the front wheel are longer then those on the 2 rear wheels. Any significance in that?
Attachment 585829
Good shops usually have spoke threading tools and can make you any length you need. The different length nipples are probably different brands and that should make no difference as long as the threading is correct and you have enough thread engagement.
Lacing half a wheel definitely works. I've done it. The maybe part is whether any freewheel remover you find will engage properly and provide enough grip for you to break the thing loose.
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Zincier, I like it but I'd probably spell it zinc-ier, lest someone think it's French and pronounce it ZAN-see-yay.
Good shops usually have spoke threading tools and can make you any length you need. The different length nipples are probably different brands and that should make no difference as long as the threading is correct and you have enough thread engagement.
Lacing half a wheel definitely works. I've done it. The maybe part is whether any freewheel remover you find will engage properly and provide enough grip for you to break the thing loose.
Good shops usually have spoke threading tools and can make you any length you need. The different length nipples are probably different brands and that should make no difference as long as the threading is correct and you have enough thread engagement.
Lacing half a wheel definitely works. I've done it. The maybe part is whether any freewheel remover you find will engage properly and provide enough grip for you to break the thing loose.
Is it worth the effort?
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
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He may also want to salvage the hub, although there are ways to do this without rebuilding but which destroy the freewheel in the process. Hard to get them apart without damage unless you apply a little effort.
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Gee wizz what are the origins of a Royce Union, Are they a dept. store brand?. It looks English/Raleigh to me. I'm going to go get this one this weekend. I found some pennies they are burning a whole in my pocket. I'll see if I can get it for $40. The racks are too cool and the stick shift I have not seen before. It seems to be intact with everything and looks like it will clean up well. Small frame. Its been on CL for a while here.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...329084459.html
Royce Union 1.jpg
Royce Union 2.jpg
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...329084459.html
Royce Union 1.jpg
Royce Union 2.jpg
Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 10-25-17 at 01:44 PM.
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Gee wizz what are the origins of a Royce Union, Are they a dept. store brand?. It looks English/Raleigh to me. I'm going to go get this one this weekend. I found some pennies they are burning a whole in my pocket. I'll see if I can get it for $40. The racks are too cool and the stick shift I have not seen before. It seems to be intact with everything and looks like it will clean up well. Small frame. Its been on CL for a while here.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...329084459.html
Attachment 585906
Attachment 585907
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...329084459.html
Attachment 585906
Attachment 585907
edit:
just an example. This bike was a craigslist find at $50. It had a lot of bugs to work out, but it was worth the effort in the end.
72sports.JPG
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Last edited by BigChief; 10-25-17 at 02:16 PM.
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That looks like a Shimano 333 speed stick shifter. If you have problems with it or the hub contact me. I have a lot of Shimano hub parts and a used stick shifter for the cost of shipping.
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Lots of different manufacturers made bikes under the Royce Union badge. Some of the older ones are Raleigh made, but this one isn't. Personally, this isn't one I would go after. The market still has real English 3 speeds for dirt cheap if you have patience.
edit:
just an example. This bike was a craigslist find at $50. It had a lot of bugs to work out, but it was worth the effort in the end.
Attachment 585922
edit:
just an example. This bike was a craigslist find at $50. It had a lot of bugs to work out, but it was worth the effort in the end.
Attachment 585922
A-not English
B-not a tall frame
I would make an exception for a Rudge, Philips, Robin Hood or a nice Dunelt.
I did fix up a nice Shimano 3 speed for a friend a few years ago.
My plan was to swap out the rear hub for an SA 3 speed
but once the bike was cleaned up I opted for originality and went with the 333.
p1170208.jpg
The photo doesn't really do the colour justice.
https://threespeedmania.wordpress.co...speed-project/