gster

Fine looking machine.
I have one small note.
I think the fulcrum stop should be closer to the front.
It should be 2 1/4"- 2 1/2" back from the lug.
I have an unmolested Superbe in the garage that I use as a guide for placements/ cable lengths etc.
The chainguard is a good choice over a full case as it's much easier to service the rear hub, fix a flat etc.

gster

Here's a nice one...

raleigh_all_chrome_superbe1.jpg

SirMike1983 

That's exactly right for how they are normally. The catalog images and the ones I've seen usually are like 2.5 inches back from the lug. For some reason, this one was set up like this, with the fulcrum farther back. It could be that's what people wanted or had in terms of cable housing lengths in the export market. It did come with its original, fixed-length cable. I ended up just copying how it was when I got it. My other bikes are all much closer to the front lug, and I'm like you in that I like them in the more frontward setting.

SirMike1983 

Very nice condition on that bike - that's a keeper. You probably can't do much better on condition than that.

clubman 

Fulcrum position would be determined by the length of shifter cable, which came in different sizes for the myriad of models. Yours may be slightly shorter.

That's a Birmingham made mudguard on that Raleigh. I really like it too.

Ballenxj

What is going on with that rear hub? Can you post photos specifically of it? Looks almost like it has an engine?

Charmlessman

Hi all, first post in this forum. I rode a bike last time when I was 15 (now 38) and recently got back into it again. As I was browsing Craiglist I found a Raleigh LTD - 3 and started researching about this kind of bikes. Long story short I have now contacted 2 sellers in the Houston - Austin area and I would like to get your opinion on them:

Both bikes are Superbes, the cheapest is 90 but its very rusted and it is missing the Dynahub, the other ones is 200 but it looks in excellent condition (early 60s) and has the Dynahub , not sure about a key for locking fork.

I have zero experience working on bikes but find myself now with at least 30 days of free time until I start anew job.

Should I go with the cheaper one? How hard is it to work on these bikes?

johnnyspaghetti

You have found the right place to be.
It would be better if folks could see more of the second bike which looks to be in real nice shape by looking at the rear of it. I see it doesn't have original pedals.
It shouldn't matter what you pay if that is what you want.
$200 is not too much-a good deal a Dynahub equipped w/forklock if thats what your after. The fork lock is code stamped on the lock cylinder face that provides info to get a dup key.
The first Superbe appears to be a 1969'-72' shown is rough looking and you could find one in better shape under $100. It does look to be all there and may ride very well after getting your fingers dirty.

The second Superbe pictured all i can see is other than original pedal gone & a nice reflector-paint back there. Some sellers are thinking these bikes are rare investments, not really. It would be always be better to have the original parts intact, don't make it a rule. Original parts seem to be out there.

Don't be afraid to travel a couple a hundred miles for a better bike or one you want.

gster

I would opt for the better of the the two as well.
The more complete and original the better.
Leather seat? Pump. etc?
These add value.
Please post some more photos.

BigChief 

Welcome! I do have one bit of important advice for you. These bikes come in 2 different frame sizes. 21" and 23". If you are a taller person, say 5'10" or more, I would limit any purchase to the taller 23" framed bikes. Even in crummy craigslist photos, it's easy to see what frame size it is by looking at the steering tube length. The difference is obvious.

here's a 23"
73 sports800 by Billy Bones, on Flickr

here's a 21"
sprite_may_16 by Billy Bones, on Flickr

johnnyspaghetti

Things I look at when I buy one of these old bikes is screws & nuts & bolts for marred hex corners, screwdriver slots marred/rounded, these are signs that some hack has worked on the bike with ill fitting tools-don't be that guy-use wrench's/tools that fit properly for British Whitworth standards.
I look for scratches on the handle bar bends & pedal bearing caps, axle threads
Rusty chrome usually cleans up very well, if chrome is peeling that's not good.
Old decals are fragile clean with care. Most old paint will come back to a point & look better.
Straight wheels.

Some of the things I stated here can be a buyers negotiating chip and not necessarily a reason not to buy, proper fasteners are a hassle to find replacements.

All Sturmey Acrher 3 speed hubs are dated month & year 72-6 for instance, would be June/1972 I would look for pre 1975 bikes, the older they get the better they get.


All the information you need to learn about the maintenance of these Raleigh's is here in this forum maybe all is in this 1st thread you posted in. Any task at hand you will find guidance with here.

Charmlessman

Here are a few more pics of each bike.

@johnnyspaghetti , thanks, I am searching on different areas and this morning a few came up.

@BigChief thanks , I am 5 6 so its not a problem for me but thank you for pointing that out, actually I think I like the ladies version better.

johnnyspaghetti

I have a 21" ride pretty much everyday for going on 4 years and still do most days. It is too small being over 6' tall but use to it and happy to have a bike that is there outside 24/7 all seasons. I bought a parts bike cheap in rough condition 1962 Sports 23" and after looking it over-Why would I remove a 1 part off of this complete bicycle after a little grease & oil this bike rides so much more comfortably than the 21" the riding enjoyment is way better. After going through every ball bearing and cleaning up the paint & chrome wah-la! its too nice to leave outside.

BigChief 

Both of those are 23". At 5'6" you'd be fine with a 21" or a stepthrough. Most of the stepthroughs you find are 19 1/2" . That makes it easier. Tall frames are generally harder to find. Good luck with the hunt. Let us know what you find.

73emgee

Nope, it seems to be a mystery bike.

Charmlessman

I think the hunt is over. I talked to the seller on this bike which is about an hour away from home but I believe this might be a better choice. Any advice on the saddle that it has? Should I replace it?

johnnyspaghetti

That one looks very good. 1965-1967 era I'm pretty sure. I have a 69' Raleigh Superbe that came with those type of pedals. They likely replacements because pedal reflectors really didn't begin until the 70's, I could be mistaken. I don't like then as much as the rubber blocks pedals with the screw on bearing caps. As far as the seat goes it looks to be in good shape Use it if you don't like it-upgrade. May be it will be comfortable for you. A good long ride and you'll know if you want something else. The handle grips are wrong. Seems like small but I would give it 1 demerit for grips & 1 demerit for pedals. That bike looks like it will cleanup real nice. I don't know what others think about the pedals, it would be a considerable cost to replace them. Good grips are not cheap either.

BigChief 

An excellent choice. A classic late 60s Raleigh. I like it. It would have originally come with a leather Brooks saddle and in my opinion, even though it would be expensive, this bike deserves one. My personal pick would be a Brooks B66 but saddles are personal things. Opinions vary. Congrats on a great find. This bike should clean up nicely.
Here's the 1968 catalog page.

gster

I'm a big fan of these MKS pedals.
They cost about $30.00/pair here in Canada,
so I imagine $24 + US.
Real rubber NOT plastic.
pedal-money-shot.jpg

jon.612

A while ago I bought a Sturmey Archer K Quadrant shifter. I decided I needed to build a bike around it. I just bought this 1934 Raleigh Sports frame, which will use 1960's vintage parts and new lauterwasser bars to complete a roadworthy bike. If I find 1930s vintage parts, the newer parts will get replaced, but they are difficult to source and are sometimes more expensive than the bike is worth. We'll see. Anyway, it's winter here in Minnesota and I work in the garage, which will be likely below freezing until April. I'm in no hurry. This will give me something to dream about this winter.

SirMike1983 

That measurement made me curious, so I checked a Sports that has its original cable set up. The fulcrum there is right at 2 1/2 inches back from the lug, so that must have been about where they were standard. I moved the rod brake bike's fulcrum to 2 1/2 inches this evening.

SirMike1983 

I've never actually been able to find these here in the US - only seen the 3000R with reflectors. I've been using a stock of unused German waffle block pedals from the 1960s I've built up, but those are starting to run out now. I think I'm down to my last set in the parts box. I have some pairs of Raleigh pedals, but the blocks tend to spin more than the German pedals, which have spikes set into the block ends.

Does anyone have source for MKS 3000S (without reflectors) here in the US?

I have a feeling the CPSC reflector requirement is part of why I'm seeing only the 3000R's. I have a pair of MKS rat traps on my Raleigh Grand Prix - they make good pedals.

gster

I was thinking a while back how this was measured at the factory.
Three fingers is about right and a lot easier than a tape measure.
Just like a good glass of free pour Scotch.
P1190444.jpg

gster

They're not that easy to find here in Toronto.
I've been running a pair on my everyday Superbe for 4 years or so.
Damn fine pedals!

gster

It is.
Found on the interweb.