For the love of English 3 speeds...
12-03-17, 11:19 AM
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Wow! What a great find. This happened to me in the 70s. Still have a pile of old shifters from that box. @plympton is in need of a clutch spring cap last I heard. I also see a splined, straight leg driver there that would be perfect for anyone looking to convert an older threaded driver hub to use modern cogs. Rare part.
Interestingly, I did not get all the stuff he had. He also had numerous rear SA hubs complete (mostly 28H) and more various parts including what I think are threaded cogs for the older threaded drivers you mention (and which I have never seen), several SunTour copies of SA 3-speed hubs, several Shimano 3-speed hubs, plus Shimano cables and parts, twistgrip shifters and cables.
12-03-17, 11:25 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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12-03-17, 11:32 AM
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16GC spindles aren't that common. BB cups are a little easier to find. I checked eBay. Right now the only one I see would end up costing over 50 dollars. It would be better to buy a junker out of CL and salvage a bunch of parts. It may be that a spindle swap is all his bike needs, but considering the damage I see, I suspect that the cups may be damaged also. I know a total BB replacement is an expensive proposition, not to mention the hassle of removing the fixed cup, but I think that is what is called for here.
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12-03-17, 11:48 AM
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12-03-17, 12:15 PM
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I just took another look and it is a 1. Ill have to look at the co-op.
thanx!
thanx!
Are you sure this is a 6 and not a "16" with the "1" partially obliterated? If you look closely at that numbering, you can almost see a "1" next to the 6 that was lightly struck. The 16GC also would be common to the Sports frame size, which is consistent with a Superbe based on the Sports platform.
When you measure it, you not only measure the full length of the spindle, but also the distance between the bearing races on it. If you get both measurements, you may be able to compare to a known 16GC set of numbers and determine if that is actually a #6 or if it was a #16 with the 1 lightly struck. If it's a 16GC, you ought to be able to find one online in fairly short order - they are very common.
When you measure it, you not only measure the full length of the spindle, but also the distance between the bearing races on it. If you get both measurements, you may be able to compare to a known 16GC set of numbers and determine if that is actually a #6 or if it was a #16 with the 1 lightly struck. If it's a 16GC, you ought to be able to find one online in fairly short order - they are very common.
12-03-17, 12:20 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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A friend of mine has a Twenty hanging in her garage. They used to live in Blacksburg VA and the bike got regular use in town on rides from home to work and grocery, but they moved to hillier Connecticut about 30 years ago and I'd wager it has not budged since. I'm tempted to pry it away from them and trick it out but there are so many new lighter machines (Origami, right here in town) that it would almost be a waste of time and money spent on the Twenty.
Also, I'm active on a Vanagon forum and one guy there has a Twenty gussied up with alloys, a suspension fork and other mods that probably cost a modest bundle. I'll see if I can find pix.
Also, I'm active on a Vanagon forum and one guy there has a Twenty gussied up with alloys, a suspension fork and other mods that probably cost a modest bundle. I'll see if I can find pix.
12-03-17, 01:55 PM
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Well, a longtime shop in the area is going away. The current owner has had it for more than three decades and he bought it from an old guy who did lots of bread-and-butter low end work. It's been years since I saw the warehouse area but this was the last day and I asked if I could see it and Randy turned me loose. Found some goodies I'll never use but could not resist, two little parts cabinets with Sturmey Archer labels on the front and chock full of SA parts. Let me know if you need anything.
Attachment 591066
Attachment 591066
12-03-17, 02:01 PM
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12-03-17, 03:42 PM
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It's been a while since I last posted to this thread. My '64 Armstrong has gotten dusty because the 21" frame with the original short seatpost was too small a fit for me, and the chromed steel rims were never confidence-inspiring.
But as the weather has cooled off, I've had the itch to play with bikes, and I thought: "what could I do to make this bike work better for me?" So I ordered a longer seatpost for better leg extension and a Sun CR18 rim for the front wheel:
This was my first time re-rimming a wheel using the existing hub and spokes, and I had an interesting confound, in that one rim was drilled left-handed while the other right-handed (I'm not sure which is which.) At any rate, I decided to advance all of the right-side spokes by one hole on the hub, and then purposefully lace everything one hole "off" to the new rim. That put the valve back between parallel spokes and got the handedness right:
(For those who may be interested, I found that the ERD of the original steel rim and the Sun CR18 wasn't an exact match, as is sometimes claimed. While I was able to reuse the old spokes, the CR18's ERD is smaller, so I had to file down a few spoke ends to keep them from poking out through the holes in the rim's well.)
Replacing the seatpost was an interesting operation, as the original was a little shy of 1" in diameter, and the replacement isn't! The seat tube ears had of course bent inward over the years, and so I tried the old trick of "jacking" the seat tube ears back out using a quill stem and a shim. I had to file the inside edges of the seat tube ears to take off some sharp edges, and upended the bike for this operation to keep filings from dropping into the bottom bracket. Some careful wiping and a little grease, and the new seatpost went right in!
I finally got the bike back together this afternoon and rode it around the neighborhood, stopping and making adjustments now and then. Much better! Maybe I'll ride this bike more often now.
But as the weather has cooled off, I've had the itch to play with bikes, and I thought: "what could I do to make this bike work better for me?" So I ordered a longer seatpost for better leg extension and a Sun CR18 rim for the front wheel:
This was my first time re-rimming a wheel using the existing hub and spokes, and I had an interesting confound, in that one rim was drilled left-handed while the other right-handed (I'm not sure which is which.) At any rate, I decided to advance all of the right-side spokes by one hole on the hub, and then purposefully lace everything one hole "off" to the new rim. That put the valve back between parallel spokes and got the handedness right:
(For those who may be interested, I found that the ERD of the original steel rim and the Sun CR18 wasn't an exact match, as is sometimes claimed. While I was able to reuse the old spokes, the CR18's ERD is smaller, so I had to file down a few spoke ends to keep them from poking out through the holes in the rim's well.)
Replacing the seatpost was an interesting operation, as the original was a little shy of 1" in diameter, and the replacement isn't! The seat tube ears had of course bent inward over the years, and so I tried the old trick of "jacking" the seat tube ears back out using a quill stem and a shim. I had to file the inside edges of the seat tube ears to take off some sharp edges, and upended the bike for this operation to keep filings from dropping into the bottom bracket. Some careful wiping and a little grease, and the new seatpost went right in!
I finally got the bike back together this afternoon and rode it around the neighborhood, stopping and making adjustments now and then. Much better! Maybe I'll ride this bike more often now.
12-03-17, 03:49 PM
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There's a 20 near me for sale @ a reasonable $80.00 (CDN).
It's the Supercycle branded version but I still can't see myself riding one.
Perhaps I'm a "sizeist"....
12-03-17, 03:54 PM
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Yes - co-op, Sports junker, online; you will probably find a decent 16gc if you dig a little. Look for a bike with frame or fork damage, orn incomplete, but with the bb parts still there. You can probably get one cheaply with a little effort.
12-03-17, 04:04 PM
working on my sandal tan
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Thanks, gster! These old 3-speeds exude a lot of class for what you pay. 
12-03-17, 04:12 PM
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OK, I've got to do something here. I've got 30 years worth of boxes to dig through. I already found a 16GC spindle and an adjustable cup that's not part of a set. I'm sure I remember a clutch spring cap somewhere. It was one of those new plastic ones, bright red as I recall. I'll keep looking.
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12-03-17, 07:09 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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I gave a cursory look in all the drawers and no K529-Clutch Spring Cap. I'll let you know if I find one. Might have one in a junk hub, if I can dig out one of those. I would think you could make a cap easily enough if you found the right piece to begin with, like maybe the cap from a Chapstick that you could cut down and drill.
Sturmey diagram.JPG
Sturmey diagram.JPG
Last edited by thumpism; 12-03-17 at 07:14 PM.
12-03-17, 07:26 PM
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A couple pictures from a 60-degree day here. Really good weather for December.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
12-03-17, 07:40 PM
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I gave a cursory look in all the drawers and no K529-Clutch Spring Cap. I'll let you know if I find one. Might have one in a junk hub, if I can dig out one of those. I would think you could make a cap easily enough if you found the right piece to begin with, like maybe the cap from a Chapstick that you could cut down and drill.
Attachment 591191
Attachment 591191
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12-04-17, 07:17 AM
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@BigChief - if I’m not mistaken, SA changed their parts numbering scheme along the way. I figured it out when I was looking for a part once.
@gster- It’s all good. I ride my Twenty’s short distances - maybe in a 3 mile radius from home, but that’s just me. I’m 5’6”, so a Twenty is a good size for me and my proportions.
@gster- It’s all good. I ride my Twenty’s short distances - maybe in a 3 mile radius from home, but that’s just me. I’m 5’6”, so a Twenty is a good size for me and my proportions.
12-04-17, 09:26 AM
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I don't know why they used those "K" designations on those exploded diagrams. They don't seem to be the official part numbers. Or maybe they were at one time. The HSA numbers are more useful for parts searching. In this case the clutch spring cap is HSA 129. I'm sure I have one somewhere. It stuck in my mind because it is red plastic and I didn't know what it was at first. I'll look again tomorrow.
12-04-17, 02:05 PM
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^^ Yes.
12-04-17, 05:11 PM
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I don't know why they used those "K" designations on those exploded diagrams. They don't seem to be the official part numbers. Or maybe they were at one time. The HSA numbers are more useful for parts searching. In this case the clutch spring cap is HSA 129. I'm sure I have one somewhere. It stuck in my mind because it is red plastic and I didn't know what it was at first. I'll look again tomorrow.
12-05-17, 02:50 AM
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So much for autumn, Winter arrived in Minnesota YES. Changing seats to water resistant. Might squirt some oil more often. I like getting the rims oily& dirty they clean so nicely in the spring! It was 57 F at 4:00pm and is now 15 F at 6:00am
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12-05-17, 07:23 AM
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[QUOTE=thumpism;20030655]I gave a cursory look in all the drawers and no K529-Clutch Spring Cap. I'll let you know if I find one. Might have one in a junk hub, if I can dig out one of those. I would think you could make a cap easily enough if you found the right piece to begin with, like maybe the cap from a Chapstick that you could cut down and drill.
Yes I have made one from a lamp part where the neck was just right. It's seems to be working fine and I have another idea for making one. It will be a while before these bikes are reassembled so I'm just keeping the option of finding the correct part open. It's a matter of being a cheap Irishman, 70 cents parts and $4.62 to ship.
Yes I have made one from a lamp part where the neck was just right. It's seems to be working fine and I have another idea for making one. It will be a while before these bikes are reassembled so I'm just keeping the option of finding the correct part open. It's a matter of being a cheap Irishman, 70 cents parts and $4.62 to ship.
12-05-17, 07:51 AM
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[QUOTE=plympton;20033852]
Ah good! Backyard ingenuity is always helpful when dealing with obsolete machinery. The original part for your hub would have been stamped steel anyway. The newer ones are plastic. There's a bunch of stuff I remember having that I can't find now. Must not have survived the last move.
I gave a cursory look in all the drawers and no K529-Clutch Spring Cap. I'll let you know if I find one. Might have one in a junk hub, if I can dig out one of those. I would think you could make a cap easily enough if you found the right piece to begin with, like maybe the cap from a Chapstick that you could cut down and drill.
Yes I have made one from a lamp part where the neck was just right. It's seems to be working fine and I have another idea for making one. It will be a while before these bikes are reassembled so I'm just keeping the option of finding the correct part open. It's a matter of being a cheap Irishman, 70 cents parts and $4.62 to ship.
Yes I have made one from a lamp part where the neck was just right. It's seems to be working fine and I have another idea for making one. It will be a while before these bikes are reassembled so I'm just keeping the option of finding the correct part open. It's a matter of being a cheap Irishman, 70 cents parts and $4.62 to ship.
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12-05-17, 11:14 AM
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Second option: I then made this one.
1205171235-00.jpg
1205171235-00.jpg
12-05-17, 12:36 PM
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The green color really shows up in these photos. Very nice. What a classy and unusual roadster. Did you make the Dynohub functional? Light bulbs for those must be getting pretty rare these days.
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