Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 12-05-17, 09:31 PM
  #14876  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,243

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Liked 989 Times in 373 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
The green color really shows up in these photos. Very nice. What a classy and unusual roadster. Did you make the Dynohub functional? Light bulbs for those must be getting pretty rare these days.
I was lucky in that the system worked 'out of the box' when I got the bike - it just needed a clean up. A few years ago, I bought a couple of the drop-in halogen replacements for the original headlight bulbs, so I put one of those in. They were being sold in England and I bought a couple to try. They put out more light than the original headlight bulbs, but less than an LED. If I need serious light, I hook up a Cree LED to the handle bars.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
SirMike1983 is offline  
Old 12-08-17, 02:15 PM
  #14877  
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,808

Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups

Liked 337 Times in 226 Posts
Step down ferrules

I was able to get a few of these today, and was curious if any members needed 1 or 2. I have 6 available. PM me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_0128.JPG (324.0 KB, 261 views)
dweenk is offline  
Old 12-08-17, 09:17 PM
  #14878  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
I was able to get a few of these today, and was curious if any members needed 1 or 2. I have 6 available. PM me.
Is that a trigger or brake lever cable casing end? I don't believe I have a need, I'm just trying to place the part.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-09-17, 09:28 AM
  #14879  
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,808

Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups

Liked 337 Times in 226 Posts
Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
Is that a trigger or brake lever cable casing end? I don't believe I have a need, I'm just trying to place the part.
Brake cable size, the step-down is just a little too large for the cable opening in the trigger.
dweenk is offline  
Old 12-09-17, 11:08 AM
  #14880  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Likes: 0
Liked 104 Times in 86 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
Brake cable size, the step-down is just a little too large for the cable opening in the trigger.
These are hard to find. Much nicer looking than the big rounded aluminum modern ones and correct for early 60s Raleighs. The ferrules I've seen on older 50s Raleighs were the same as these but shorter.
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-09-17, 08:11 PM
  #14881  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
These are hard to find. Much nicer looking than the big rounded aluminum modern ones and correct for early 60s Raleighs. The ferrules I've seen on older 50s Raleighs were the same as these but shorter.
I would think the longer ones may offer more support, or do they? The ferrules I have on my 60's bikes are oll good with the exception of the spiral casing coming out has been stressed in many different conditions of severity but ar some how still working and none have broken strands or in a untwisted conditon. Seeing is these are traped parts by the assy. process ai am lucky but using kid gloves to deal with. The less severe ends I was able to use some cheap clear vinyl 3/16 ID X 5/16 OD tube and slipped it on the over the casing from the caliper end using a heat gun to soften ti expandeed over that ball end and re shrunk down to size and fits snug & will move but has tensiton over the original casing. I'll go get a picture & edit my mess. this computer crashed wpower problem I will re du. And have pics and addition bs.

Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 12-10-17 at 12:05 AM.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-10-17, 12:49 AM
  #14882  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
Brake cable size, the step-down is just a little too large for the cable opening in the trigger.
I made this mod/repair of sorts on the trigger end of the cable. Not the brake. I am on a different pc now and need to be fikin' things on the communication so's I & maybe you understand
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-10-17, 03:16 AM
  #14883  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
I made this mod/repair of sorts on the trigger end of the cable. Not the brake. I am on a different pc now and need to be fikin' things on the communication so's I & maybe you understand
OK then all that dinking with the pc's rather sucked. I took another bad picture. This seemed to help stabilize the end movement that seats on this ferrule and does a good job of stabilizing it and may offer some future protection although I take a semi concious efft to not bang the ends of cables on the bars. It is clear tube, definitely seen but you have to look. I do believe it protect it from further end fray of the fluted casing. As i look at my Raleighs I see the brake is larger and the $10 Tiawan Phillips(orwhatever)has perfect fluted white/cream cables in pristine un fettered condition & have the short ferrules. huh.



Down the line I put another peice of the same at a minor kink/bend in this pic. this was simple & cheap been on there all summer. it is snug on the ferrule but a good fit on the casing without calling it slop.


Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 12-10-17 at 03:33 AM.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-10-17, 11:04 AM
  #14884  
Senior Member
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,513
Liked 37 Times in 26 Posts
Those are nice. I have saved various ones off different 3 speeds but they look old.
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 12-10-17, 11:24 AM
  #14885  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Likes: 0
Liked 104 Times in 86 Posts
Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
I would think the longer ones may offer more support, or do they? The ferrules I have on my 60's bikes are oll good with the exception of the spiral casing coming out has been stressed in many different conditions of severity but ar some how still working and none have broken strands or in a untwisted conditon. Seeing is these are traped parts by the assy. process ai am lucky but using kid gloves to deal with. The less severe ends I was able to use some cheap clear vinyl 3/16 ID X 5/16 OD tube and slipped it on the over the casing from the caliper end using a heat gun to soften ti expandeed over that ball end and re shrunk down to size and fits snug & will move but has tensiton over the original casing. I'll go get a picture & edit my mess. this computer crashed wpower problem I will re du. And have pics and addition bs.
This is the older style from the 50s. Cables got replaced over the years so ferrules and old style housings are very rare. So if you ever run across any...hang on to em. Even if they're in rough shape.

f50s.jpg
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-10-17, 03:26 PM
  #14886  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
This is the older style from the 50s. Cables got replaced over the years so ferrules and old style housings are very rare. So if you ever run across any...hang on to em. Even if they're in rough shape.

Attachment 591842
With a step in them. I see. Good Knowledge. thank you.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-12-17, 06:48 PM
  #14887  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I need to see what I can do with this one. What a shame, the cable is intact, no fray/breaks. The spiral winding is some what mangled as you all can see. This is the result of a poor front wire basket installation.



Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 12-12-17 at 06:55 PM.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-12-17, 10:28 PM
  #14888  
Senior Member
 
browngw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,549

Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others

Liked 621 Times in 234 Posts
I'm of a different mind when it comes to cables, housings, brake pads, grips and chains. If new is available and will work, I change them. They are still very special bikes even wearing new "consumables". Sometimes concessions are made like "new" cloth bar tape but generally think a bike looks well sorted with newer components.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
browngw is offline  
Old 12-13-17, 12:59 AM
  #14889  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by browngw
I'm of a different mind when it comes to cables, housings, brake pads, grips and chains. If new is available and will work, I change them. They are still very special bikes even wearing new "consumables". Sometimes concessions are made like "new" cloth bar tape but generally think a bike looks well sorted with newer components.
There is a point when I have to agree and maybe I'm just beating a dead horse.

However to replace a cable or a casing section is one thing but this is a complete original cable assembly w/swedgged ends and so far I believe with a little tweeking can straighten that end out & get it to slide freely again on this other wise good assembly.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-13-17, 03:38 AM
  #14890  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Likes: 0
Liked 104 Times in 86 Posts
Originally Posted by browngw
I'm of a different mind when it comes to cables, housings, brake pads, grips and chains. If new is available and will work, I change them. They are still very special bikes even wearing new "consumables". Sometimes concessions are made like "new" cloth bar tape but generally think a bike looks well sorted with newer components.
Yes, I agree. It's just that preserving or copying original features is one aspect of this hobby I enjoy. I'll preserve original cable housings when ever I can. I like being faced with mechanical puzzles and solving them.
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-13-17, 11:13 AM
  #14891  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I didn't get white shrink tube for nothing. Lubed, turns freely, sliding well. Only had to dink around with it for less than a hour.




Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 12-13-17 at 11:17 AM.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-13-17, 02:28 PM
  #14892  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Yes, I agree. It's just that preserving or copying original features is one aspect of this hobby I enjoy. I'll preserve original cable housings when ever I can. I like being faced with mechanical puzzles and solving them.
Despite their age, the older, ribbed cable housings are more flexible than the modern ones and seem to follow a better path to the rear of the bikes. In particular, the brake cable as it rolls over the top bar.
gster is offline  
Old 12-13-17, 06:39 PM
  #14893  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,869

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Liked 2,070 Times in 1,262 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
Despite their age, the older, ribbed cable housings are more flexible than the modern ones
Absolutely. You'd be hard pressed to feel a difference between well-used set of pre-1960 ribbed Raleigh cables with an NOS pair. Clarks made great brake Raleigh pattern cables as well.
clubman is offline  
Old 12-13-17, 09:12 PM
  #14894  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Likes: 0
Liked 104 Times in 86 Posts
So far, I have always been able to reuse the old cable housings even when I had to replace the inner cable. Usually due to a broken cable strand or sometimes rust on the inner cable. Most of the time, the ball ends on the older style Raleigh brake cables are made of steel so you can remove them with a torch and silver solder them onto a new cable. Sometimes, they're pot metal cast onto the end and just melt. In that case, I saw off and drill through a cap screw with a head that fits the caliper and solder that on. For shifter cables, I've been attaching short sections of 3/32" brass tubing with JB Weld. I've never tried patching broken sections of housing cover with shrink tubing. Sounds like a good idea.
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-14-17, 06:32 AM
  #14895  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I've never tried patching broken sections of housing cover with shrink tubing. Sounds like a good idea.
This shrink tube is what Homedepot offered and I consider low quality & limited to 3" lengths. It does make things look better but this particular shrink tube found in packs of 5 pieces for $1.19 offers no support where the housing kinked at the end of the ferrule and is a weakened spot in the spring like housing winding. I will need to find a way to extend the end of the ferrule to add support past the weakened spot. All shrink tube/crimp couplings were not created equal and there are far better products that will not only shrink, ID will seal and then harden very stiff.

cable winding.jpg
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 12-14-17, 07:47 AM
  #14896  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Likes: 0
Liked 104 Times in 86 Posts
Ah, you've got a trickier puzzle to solve. I thought it was only the covering that was damaged. The housing is bent. But! It looks like it's only a 1/4" or so from the end. I'll bet there's enough slack to sacrifice that small amount of housing. You could also move the fulcrum clip forward or the shifter back to make up for it.
What I would do is take some cable cutters and snip off the end of the inner cable and remove it, trim off the bent housing and set up the shifter again with a brand new inner cable in the old housing. Now the easy way to do this is to use a modern Sturmey archer inner cable with the pinch bolt adapter on the indicator. Or you could have even more fun making up your own inner cable using a standard shifter cable and the 3/32" brass tubing I mentioned earlier.
BigChief is offline  
Old 12-14-17, 12:10 PM
  #14897  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,326
Liked 7,132 Times in 2,722 Posts
I've actually been able to trim housing like that without removing the inner cable. It's a bit tricky and you need some very good wire cutters, but you can stretch the part of the coiled housing out a bit, giving you enough space to snip it without snipping the inner cable. You might need two needle nose pliers to do that: one to pull and one to hold the coiled end near where the housing is still good.
nlerner is offline  
Old 12-14-17, 12:36 PM
  #14898  
Senior Member
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Liked 27 Times in 18 Posts
Some of you may remember the lightly-used ANT roadster frame I picked up a while ago. It had been built be given away as a raffle prize, so the original build included several parts that were lower-end than a full custom build might use, including a generic fork. I picked up the frame, including the generic fork and front rack, and built it up as a more practical take on my 1937 Raleigh Tourist. I recently had the idea to get a custom fork built for it, to make it look and feel more like a real roadster, and commissioned one from another Boston-area builder, Royal H Cycles, who was recommended to me by another builder. Mike Flanigan isn't really building bikes under the ANT name anymore, and gave his blessing to have Bryan do it. I'm quite happy with the result!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
20171102_141055.jpg (481.6 KB, 430 views)
File Type: jpg
20171214_131242.jpg (464.7 KB, 145 views)
File Type: jpg
20171214_131332.jpg (478.9 KB, 145 views)
File Type: jpg
20171214_131349.jpg (499.6 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg
20171214_131508.jpg (510.8 KB, 143 views)
agmetal is offline  
Old 12-14-17, 12:42 PM
  #14899  
Senior Member
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Liked 27 Times in 18 Posts
More...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
20171214_131252.jpg (475.4 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg
20171214_131433.jpg (512.3 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg
20171214_131516.jpg (470.5 KB, 143 views)
agmetal is offline  
Old 12-14-17, 03:37 PM
  #14900  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Likes: 0
Liked 104 Times in 86 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
I've actually been able to trim housing like that without removing the inner cable. It's a bit tricky and you need some very good wire cutters, but you can stretch the part of the coiled housing out a bit, giving you enough space to snip it without snipping the inner cable. You might need two needle nose pliers to do that: one to pull and one to hold the coiled end near where the housing is still good.
Interesting. I can see how that could work. It does sound like a tricky operation. I love this kind of stuff!
BigChief is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.