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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 12-31-17, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
Parts continued........
Nice pile o' parts.
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Old 01-01-18, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
An interesting bike for sale here in Toronto.
A 1953 Eatons Commander. Built by Hercules with a 3 speed Herc-u-matic hub and shifter.
Priced at $60.00.
Attachment 585017

Attachment 585018

Attachment 585019

Attachment 585020



This bike looks familiar, i picked this up about 3 weeks ago, i was surprised how long it was listed for without being scooped up.
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Old 01-01-18, 12:39 PM
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Because I am feeling unhappy about the prospects of drilling a cotter out of the just started '77 DL1, I'm posting a shot of my '79 DL1 to cheer me up. Happy New Year, 3speeders!
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Old 01-01-18, 12:46 PM
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It bent over using the vise socket method which has always worked before.
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Old 01-01-18, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 68sd
This bike looks familiar, i picked this up about 3 weeks ago, i was surprised how long it was listed for without being scooped up.
Glad to hear it's found a good home.
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Old 01-01-18, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Glad to hear it's found a good home.
Yes the gentleman who was selling it has a recycle bin on his property, somebody dumped this bike in it with a similar red 1951 Raleigh sports, i was able to purchase both .
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Old 01-01-18, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
It bent over using the vise socket method which has always worked before.
we all feel your pain.
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Old 01-01-18, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 68sd
Yes the gentleman who was selling it has a recycle bin on his property, somebody dumped this bike in it with a similar red 1951 Raleigh sports, i was able to purchase both .
Well, start posting some pictures.
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Old 01-01-18, 02:36 PM
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The operation was a success. Successively larger drillings, followed by strategic whacking with a hammer and punch finally worked. Much quicker than the seat post which took about seven weeks of soaking in penetrating oil and moving with a big old pipe wrench.
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Old 01-01-18, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
the operation was a success. Successively larger drillings, followed by strategic whacking with a hammer and punch finally worked. Much quicker than the seat post which took about seven weeks of soaking in penetrating oil and moving with a big old pipe wrench.
welc0171.jpg
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Old 01-01-18, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 68sd
This bike looks familiar, i picked this up about 3 weeks ago, i was surprised how long it was listed for without being scooped up.
Glad you got it!! It's a good one. 50s 3 speeds are getting more rare all the time. Birmingham made tall framed even more rare. Keep us up to date. Would love to see this project come along.

Last edited by BigChief; 01-01-18 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 01-01-18, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
The operation was a success. Successively larger drillings, followed by strategic whacking with a hammer and punch finally worked. Much quicker than the seat post which took about seven weeks of soaking in penetrating oil and moving with a big old pipe wrench.
Good job. Nice neat work. I know that even with a press, people sometimes end up having to drill out cotters, but I think the concave drive pin on the press centers on the cotter more accurately and allows for more pressure before bending the threaded end than you get with a flat vise jaw. A good excuse to buy a new tool!!
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Old 01-01-18, 09:08 PM
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Went on a 20km ride on the DL-1 on Saturday with its new chainring and front drum shoes. The previous chainring (non-Raleigh) had started rubbing too much on the bottom bracket; there have been no problems with this one. This is the 3rd set of drum shoes I've tried in the front hub, and were salvaged from a modern Sturmey Archer XL-RD5 with wrecked gears (a cheap purchase at the local recycling centre). Braking is still best described as 'speed modulation', but then I'm not hammering along on my rides - well, only sometimes. I did have a couple of downhill stretches where I was able to spin out and enjoy the coasting. But only because I was on a bike path with clear views ahead . I've yet to bend the brake levers to enable more pull, as Big Chief suggested - Big Chief did you take the levers off when you did this to yours, or did you bend the levers in place?

IMG20171230185744 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

I'll have to work on the bell - it started to jam and I had to call out 'ding ding' when approaching people on the path. The internals are slightly warped, and this allows the striker to get stuck in the frame. I should hopefully be able to bend things around to fix this issue. I'm very happy with the ride quality of this bike.

Last edited by arty dave; 01-01-18 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 01-01-18, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by arty dave
Went on a 20km ride on the DL-1 on Saturday with its new chainring and front drum shoes. The previous chainring (non-Raleigh) had started rubbing too much on the bottom bracket; there have been no problems with this one. This is the 3rd set of drum shoes I've tried in the front hub, and were salvaged from a modern Sturmey Archer XL-RD5 with wrecked gears (a cheap purchase at the local recycling centre). Braking is still best described as 'speed modulation', but then I'm not hammering along on my rides - well, only sometimes. I did have a couple of downhill stretches where I was able to spin out and enjoy the coasting. But only because I was on a bike path with clear views ahead . I've yet to bend the brake levers to enable more pull, as Big Chief suggested - Big Chief did you take the levers off when you did this to yours, or did you bend the levers in place?

IMG20171230185744 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

I'll have to work on the bell - it started to jam and I had to call out 'ding ding' when approaching people on the path. The internals are slightly warped, and this allows the striker to get stuck in the frame. I should hopefully be able to bend things around to fix this issue. I'm very happy with the ride quality of this bike.
What a beautiful roadster! Glad you found a heron crank. This bike deserves one. Looks great.
I found that I needed at least 3" of travel between the end of the lever and the grip to get the best performance from the rod brakes. Mine are set at 3 1/4". I just used a small pipe and bent them while on the bars. Very carefully. I always go slow cold setting. Lots of small adjustments are always better than fewer large ones.
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Old 01-01-18, 10:56 PM
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Haven't been active for a while and missed the British motors back on page 599....he's my Triumph to add to the posts


And to stay on topic, here is my 30's era Hercules 3spd clubman still sporting Dunlop tires or rather tyres




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Old 01-02-18, 02:35 AM
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At what point does everyone here replace their drum shoes? Can you describe the feeling for me?
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Old 01-02-18, 05:42 AM
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This one was discovered by user [MENTION=360647]Piff[/MENTION] and posted in the "Are you looking..." thread and I suggested he post it here but don't think he did. This bike looks like an Asian-production 3-speed and it's named Sport, not Sports. I was not aware that Raleigh sourced that series of bikes from there. As I noted in the other thread it simply does not look like an English Raleigh. Chainwheel appears to be distinctly un-heron-y and the fenders are insufficiently peaked, among other things. Perhaps one of you experts can enlighten us.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/...443642334.html


Last edited by thumpism; 01-02-18 at 05:47 AM.
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Old 01-02-18, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Velognome
Haven't been active for a while and missed the British motors back on page 599....he's my Triumph to add to the posts

And to stay on topic, here is my 30's era Hercules 3spd clubman still sporting Dunlop tires or rather tyres
Nice bike! I'm not surprised to see this crossover between old British bicycles and old British motorcycles. Seems natural to me.
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Old 01-02-18, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
This one was discovered by user @Piff and posted in the "Are you looking..." thread and I suggested he post it here but don't think he did. This bike looks like an Asian-production 3-speed and it's named Sport, not Sports. I was not aware that Raleigh sourced that series of bikes from there. As I noted in the other thread it simply does not look like an English Raleigh. Chainwheel appears to be distinctly un-heron-y and the fenders are insufficiently peaked, among other things. Perhaps one of you experts can enlighten us.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/...443642334.html

Yeah, you got it right. After the factory in Nottingham shut down these bikes were sold as Raleighs. Made in Taiwan I belive.
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Old 01-02-18, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JaccoW
At what point does everyone here replace their drum shoes? Can you describe the feeling for me?
Sturmey drum brakes are a mystery. Some work well, some don't, some improve with new shoes, others get worse. I think that the cable actuated models have an edge over the rods. I have a '48 AB hub on this CCM that is a marvel. Feather it to a stop or hit the panic button and burn a 10 foot skid. I hope it never requires service.
Note there is only the one brake on this tank.
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Old 01-02-18, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by clubman
Sturmey drum brakes are a mystery. Some work well, some don't, some improve with new shoes, others get worse. I think that the cable actuated models have an edge over the rods. I have a '48 AB hub on this CCM that is a marvel. Feather it to a stop or hit the panic button and burn a 10 foot skid. I hope it never requires service.
Note there is only the one brake on this tank.
What a cool bike. I don't remember seeing this one before.
I've never had a hand actuated drum brake on a bicycle, but for calipers and rod brakes, I find that there's a place in the lever travel where I want full on brake to be. Like around half or a little more into it's travel. If it's too high or too close to the grip, I loose efficiency in my grip. The inefficiency may be in my hand, but it makes the brakes feel less powerful.
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Old 01-02-18, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
This one was discovered by user [MENTION=360647]Piff[/MENTION] and posted in the "Are you looking..." thread and I suggested he post it here but don't think he did. This bike looks like an Asian-production 3-speed and it's named Sport, not Sports. I was not aware that Raleigh sourced that series of bikes from there. As I noted in the other thread it simply does not look like an English Raleigh. Chainwheel appears to be distinctly un-heron-y and the fenders are insufficiently peaked, among other things. Perhaps one of you experts can enlighten us.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/...443642334.html

It's really odd to see a Sports without a thimble fork crown! Kind of like a generic three speed with some new decals applied.
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Old 01-02-18, 10:52 AM
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Yup, Taiwan. Had these pics in my reference folder.

taiwan raleigh002.jpg

taiwan raleigh001.jpg
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Old 01-02-18, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
A similar pair here in Toronto (one CCM) for $350.00 CDN.
I think a lot of couples back then decided to get in shape together and bought these bikes as pairs. I suspect that most saw little use.
I bought my wife a nice ladies Superbe to match mine. She rode it to the first Toronto Vintage Bicycle Show and promptly put a for sale sign on it....
Attachment 592616

Attachment 592617

nice Superbe, do you find Toronto has quite a number of them around? im surprised how many i see on kijiji
must have been a hot seller in the mid 70s.
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Old 01-02-18, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
What a cool bike. I don't remember seeing this one before.
I've never had a hand actuated drum brake on a bicycle, but for calipers and rod brakes, I find that there's a place in the lever travel where I want full on brake to be. Like around half or a little more into it's travel. If it's too high or too close to the grip, I loose efficiency in my grip. The inefficiency may be in my hand, but it makes the brakes feel less powerful.

very nice, love to have a double bar someday
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