For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I put 'Raleigh roadster' tyres on mine. They're made by CST (Chen Shin), search ebay for raleigh roadster tyres they are around $40 for a shipped pair. They actually have Raleigh Roadster on the tyrewall in raised block letters. Looks cool and they ride really nice. Those Niagara tyres are so inexpensive!
I've been for a few more rides on the DL-1, and after ironing out the drum brake issues -
and probably with some 'bedding in' of the shoes to the shell - the stopping power is far more adequate. I can now actually slow down and stop going down one of the hills that I have to walk up
I'm very happy with this bike, it's now my go to bike for most of my riding as it's just so much fun to ride. I occasionally wish for 5 speeds, and I have an S5 hub I want to build into the Aussie/English Speedwell roadster I've been slowly working on. I hope it's as nice to ride as the DL-1, but it won't have the same amount of fork rake.
I've been for a few more rides on the DL-1, and after ironing out the drum brake issues -
and probably with some 'bedding in' of the shoes to the shell - the stopping power is far more adequate. I can now actually slow down and stop going down one of the hills that I have to walk up

Last edited by arty dave; 02-01-18 at 06:13 PM.
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I put 'Raleigh roadster' tyres on mine. They're made by CST (Chen Shin), search ebay for raleigh roadster tyres they are around $40 for a shipped pair. They actually have Raleigh Roadster on the tyrewall in raised block letters. Looks cool and they ride really nice. Those Niagara tyres are so inexpensive!
I've been for a few more rides on the DL-1, and after ironing out the drum brake issues -
and probably with some 'bedding in' of the shoes to the shell - the stopping power is far more adequate. I can now actually slow down and stop going down one of the hills that I have to walk up
I'm very happy with this bike, it's now my go to bike for most of my riding as it's just so much fun to ride. I occasionally wish for 5 speeds, and I have an S5 hub I want to build into the Aussie/English Speedwell roadster I've been slowly working on. I hope it's as nice to ride as the DL-1, but it won't have the same amount of fork rake.
I've been for a few more rides on the DL-1, and after ironing out the drum brake issues -
and probably with some 'bedding in' of the shoes to the shell - the stopping power is far more adequate. I can now actually slow down and stop going down one of the hills that I have to walk up


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I never expected that I would enjoy riding these big roadsters as much as I do, but this is the bike I put the most mileage on these days. I did swap the 16T cog for a 22 and finally figured out how to get the brakes to work. Hard to explain, but I just love riding this bike. Finally got fenders on her. Here's the official "finished" photo.
DL-1 Roadster by Billy Bones, on Flickr

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3 Speed life
Just discovered this thread. Long live 3 speeds!
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@BigChief, what's your secret to getting the brakes to work?
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Salmon Kool Stop inserts. Side to side pad alignment on the rim (you can tap the guides up or down on the fork legs/chain stays to adjust this) Getting the pads to land on the rims evenly by holding emery cloth against the rim, applying light pressure on the lever and dressing down the higher pad until they land on the rim at the same time. Making sure there is at least 3 inches of travel between the lever and grip. I carefully bend the levers down if there's less. And I think there is some advantage (with Raleigh type brakes with offset arms on the front brake) to mount the front pads in the leading position.
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Last edited by BigChief; 02-02-18 at 04:53 AM.
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This looks like a roadster design? I just popped up locally on CL for $75 and looks to be in excellent condition I see no front wheel. Looks to be a 23" frame.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...473158291.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...473158291.html

Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 02-02-18 at 11:09 AM.
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This looks like a roadster design? I just popped up locally on CL for $75 and looks to be in excellent condition I see no front wheel.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...473158291.html

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...473158291.html

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Has anyone converted a Sports to square taper cranks? I've converted a low end Raleigh Record to square taper back in the day, so I understand the method, just not how a Sports would look without it's signature cottered crankset. My current Sports project is becoming more of a resto-mod so the thought has crossed my mind. Crank wise I'd likely go with a low-end fluted crankset like a SR.
In my mind it looks right but the doubts are there.
In my mind it looks right but the doubts are there.
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Personally, I wouldn't do it. A well adjusted Heron crankset with new bearings can run very smoothly and cotters can be managed with the right tools. The only advantage I can see would be a couple ounces of weight. Not enough to offset the classic look of the original IMO.
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My daughter's Sports was acquired as a bare frame, mudguards, and chain guard, so I had no qualms about building it up with parts I had on hand. Not just just square-taper cranks, but also Tektro dual pivot calipers:

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That's the whole reason I gear down my AWs. I sacrifice the overdrive for a granny to help me get up hills. I'm especially tempted by the idea of the FM. I love the medium spread I have on the S5. The only issue there is if you're riding the S5 in medium mode, engaging the bell crank to reach the granny in wide mode is a trickier shift. It's reliable, but not as smooth and easy as the right side shifter. Takes a bit of a knack.
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Dutch coaster brake single-speed. Probably has the 635 tire but not exactly the same bike as an English roadster. The Puch Waffenrad is another example that is made in Austria, but it also has a scrub front brake and one lever on the bars. You could modify this one pretty easily.
This looks like a roadster design? I just popped up locally on CL for $75 and looks to be in excellent condition I see no front wheel. Looks to be a 23" frame.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...473158291.html

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...473158291.html

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Dutch coaster brake single-speed. Probably has the 635 tire but not exactly the same bike as an English roadster. The Puch Waffenrad is another example that is made in Austria, but it also has a scrub front brake and one lever on the bars. You could modify this one pretty easily.
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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@PilotFishBob posted this one in the "Looking" thread.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/d...474065956.html
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/d...474065956.html

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I picked these 2 up for $20 each off CL figuring there must be $40 bucks worth of parts between them. one of them is a 1970 Hercules & the other a 1958 Robin Hood Sports. Pretty rough I think I did OK. netted some sweet parts off the 58 RHS.

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For 20 bucks you did great. I don't know if my memory is correct, but I think you already have a really clean tall frame RH. I know the earlier RIN crank will fit and I wouldn't be surprised if the earlier fork crown cover fit on the later fork. Looks like you could retro fit your good tall frame with the nicer parts from the 58 stepthrough. The steel guide wheel arm would be the wrong direction for a gents frame and they tend to be rusted in place though. So, did you get a good trigger shifter with the 58? How about the pre reflector pedals?
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For 20 bucks you did great. I don't know if my memory is correct, but I think you already have a really clean tall frame RH. I know the earlier RIN crank will fit and I wouldn't be surprised if the earlier fork crown cover fit on the later fork. Looks like you could retro fit your good tall frame with the nicer parts from the 58 stepthrough. The steel guide wheel arm would be the wrong direction for a gents frame and they tend to be rusted in place though. So, did you get a good trigger shifter with the 58? How about the pre reflector pedals?
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For 20 bucks you did great. I don't know if my memory is correct, but I think you already have a really clean tall frame RH. I know the earlier RIN crank will fit and I wouldn't be surprised if the earlier fork crown cover fit on the later fork. Looks like you could retro fit your good tall frame with the nicer parts from the 58 stepthrough. The steel guide wheel arm would be the wrong direction for a gents frame and they tend to be rusted in place though. So, did you get a good trigger shifter with the 58? How about the pre reflector pedals?
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The 58 shifter should be one like this
009 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
or this
mid50s by Billy Bones, on Flickr
The 58 should also have a nice steel fulcrum clip. You may have to do some work on the cables to get them to fit. Don't know. I've never tried swapping them from a stepthrough to gents frame.

or this

The 58 should also have a nice steel fulcrum clip. You may have to do some work on the cables to get them to fit. Don't know. I've never tried swapping them from a stepthrough to gents frame.
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The 58 shifter should be one like this
009 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
or this
mid50s by Billy Bones, on Flickr
The 58 should also have a nice steel fulcrum clip. You may have to do some work on the cables to get them to fit. Don't know. I've never tried swapping them from a stepthrough to gents frame.

or this

The 58 should also have a nice steel fulcrum clip. You may have to do some work on the cables to get them to fit. Don't know. I've never tried swapping them from a stepthrough to gents frame.