For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Hi,
Unfortunately in Germany you see a Raleigh Sports on ebay once in a blue moon (no need to talk about the Schwinns or Robin Hoods).
So, do you know if there's a pendant for continental Europe? Since Sturmey Archer is very rare here I would say that these would use a Fichtel Sachs (Torpedo) IGH. I only finde bikes like these but the're lacking the elegance of the Raleighs:
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...08030-217-9505
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...73100-217-8190
Unfortunately in Germany you see a Raleigh Sports on ebay once in a blue moon (no need to talk about the Schwinns or Robin Hoods).
So, do you know if there's a pendant for continental Europe? Since Sturmey Archer is very rare here I would say that these would use a Fichtel Sachs (Torpedo) IGH. I only finde bikes like these but the're lacking the elegance of the Raleighs:
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...08030-217-9505
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...73100-217-8190
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This is pretty sweet!
World Championship Raleigh: Jeff Bock Lake Pepin Rider | Cycle EXIF
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RALEIGH: JEFF BOCK LAKE PEPIN RIDER
<-------->
One of Ohio’s most esteemed frame builders, Jeff Bock, is a self-confessed Raleigh addict. After a long stint working in shops that were Raleigh dealers and participating in last year’s Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour, he decided to build one of his own.
<-------->
The geometry, based on an early ‘60s Raleigh Superbe, was tweaked to accommodate 650b wheels, and the lugs and BB shell were cut from blanks, inspired by the old Prugnat lug set. He also built the front and rear racks with 4130, 5/16 inch diameter tubing.
<-------->
The original Superbe paint scheme of Bronze Green was maintained, with box lining by John Parker (with a brush), but the real star is the rear hub: a 1953 Sturmey Archer unit with an alloy shell, which had sat in a bin at his shop for decades, waiting for this build.
<-------->
World Championship Raleigh: Jeff Bock Lake Pepin Rider | Cycle EXIF
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RALEIGH: JEFF BOCK LAKE PEPIN RIDER
<-------->
One of Ohio’s most esteemed frame builders, Jeff Bock, is a self-confessed Raleigh addict. After a long stint working in shops that were Raleigh dealers and participating in last year’s Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour, he decided to build one of his own.
<-------->
The geometry, based on an early ‘60s Raleigh Superbe, was tweaked to accommodate 650b wheels, and the lugs and BB shell were cut from blanks, inspired by the old Prugnat lug set. He also built the front and rear racks with 4130, 5/16 inch diameter tubing.
<-------->
The original Superbe paint scheme of Bronze Green was maintained, with box lining by John Parker (with a brush), but the real star is the rear hub: a 1953 Sturmey Archer unit with an alloy shell, which had sat in a bin at his shop for decades, waiting for this build.
<-------->

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^ That's cool. I actually have a 40-hole 650B rim in my stash and was thinking about building it with a 40-holed Sturmey-Archer steel shelled FW that I also have. The problem is I don't have a frame currently to hang it on!
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This is pretty sweet!
World Championship Raleigh: Jeff Bock Lake Pepin Rider | Cycle EXIF
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RALEIGH: JEFF BOCK LAKE PEPIN RIDER

One of Ohio’s most esteemed frame builders, Jeff Bock, is a self-confessed Raleigh addict. After a long stint working in shops that were Raleigh dealers and participating in last year’s Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour, he decided to build one of his own.

The geometry, based on an early ‘60s Raleigh Superbe, was tweaked to accommodate 650b wheels, and the lugs and BB shell were cut from blanks, inspired by the old Prugnat lug set. He also built the front and rear racks with 4130, 5/16 inch diameter tubing.

The original Superbe paint scheme of Bronze Green was maintained, with box lining by John Parker (with a brush), but the real star is the rear hub: a 1953 Sturmey Archer unit with an alloy shell, which had sat in a bin at his shop for decades, waiting for this build.

World Championship Raleigh: Jeff Bock Lake Pepin Rider | Cycle EXIF
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RALEIGH: JEFF BOCK LAKE PEPIN RIDER

One of Ohio’s most esteemed frame builders, Jeff Bock, is a self-confessed Raleigh addict. After a long stint working in shops that were Raleigh dealers and participating in last year’s Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour, he decided to build one of his own.

The geometry, based on an early ‘60s Raleigh Superbe, was tweaked to accommodate 650b wheels, and the lugs and BB shell were cut from blanks, inspired by the old Prugnat lug set. He also built the front and rear racks with 4130, 5/16 inch diameter tubing.

The original Superbe paint scheme of Bronze Green was maintained, with box lining by John Parker (with a brush), but the real star is the rear hub: a 1953 Sturmey Archer unit with an alloy shell, which had sat in a bin at his shop for decades, waiting for this build.

I'd be afraid to ride it.
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1976 Raleigh 3 speed
My 1976 Raleigh 3 speed in rare yellow color.
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So this 58' Robin Hood Sports came with a "SW" hub. It has a 19 tooth sprocket & 48 tooth crank. What other than that is different from an "AW" hub?
As far as I know all the other hubs I have are AW w/18 tooth sprocket.
00a.JPG
As far as I know all the other hubs I have are AW w/18 tooth sprocket.
00a.JPG
Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 02-07-18 at 12:27 PM.
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Never had an SW hub. All I know about them I learned from here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sw.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sw.html
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They also tend to slip, especially in 3rd gear. The design really isn't that bad, but the metallurgy at the time wasn't up to the task. There are a series of crescent moon-shaped pawls that tend to wear and fracture (as I understand it) and then the hub starts slipping.
I have a theory that if you made new versions of the parts with better materials and used a better lubricant, that it might hold up. The wider range is certainly nice- lower low, higher high.
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Took off what I needed and what was damaged. Found a nice rack that had been lost in the shed. Almost put red and tan tires on but it didn't look right. 64' Royal, made by BPHarris for Roll fast.
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The SW is silent, and has a wider range then the AW.
They also tend to slip, especially in 3rd gear. The design really isn't that bad, but the metallurgy at the time wasn't up to the task. There are a series of crescent moon-shaped pawls that tend to wear and fracture (as I understand it) and then the hub starts slipping.
I have a theory that if you made new versions of the parts with better materials and used a better lubricant, that it might hold up. The wider range is certainly nice- lower low, higher high.
They also tend to slip, especially in 3rd gear. The design really isn't that bad, but the metallurgy at the time wasn't up to the task. There are a series of crescent moon-shaped pawls that tend to wear and fracture (as I understand it) and then the hub starts slipping.
I have a theory that if you made new versions of the parts with better materials and used a better lubricant, that it might hold up. The wider range is certainly nice- lower low, higher high.
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I've never seen a Royal badged bike before and I've never heard of BP Harris, but the frame and fork are Raleigh made and the features are consistent with the mid 60s date.
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I've had a couple of Raleighs with SW hubs, and they worked fine, but I also didn't hold on to those bikes for very long. One downside of the smaller hub shell is that you can't swap in the guts from a different hub. It was not Sturmey Archer's most brilliant idea.
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A skilled old-world mechanic friend was delighted to tear one of mine apart to see how they work. Apparently they have no pawl springs and just move in and out of position. This exploded diagram shows no springs in the parts list. My 59 works just fine but I don't ride it at all. Interesting that the date on this exploded diagram is dated 1954 Mark I. It took 3 more years before these got to market.
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From the Sheldon Brown article, the problem was wear and chipping of those tiny pawls. That would mean you're stuck. Harder steel to fight wear would be more likely to chip and softer steel would wear faster. Maybe the idea of a 3 planet design, but with husky, spring loaded pawls with more solid engagement would be even better than the trusty AW. Who cares if the pawls click if the hub is smoother and more efficient.
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From the Sheldon Brown article, the problem was wear and chipping of those tiny pawls. That would mean you're stuck. Harder steel to fight wear would be more likely to chip and softer steel would wear faster. Maybe the idea of a 3 planet design, but with husky, spring loaded pawls with more solid engagement would be even better than the trusty AW. Who cares if the pawls click if the hub is smoother and more efficient.
I find it very comforting as I ride.
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I find the ticking soothing as well. Now that I own an SW I will put it to good use though it may not be as sturdy as an AW. I cleaned off the external crud & filled & flushed it with kerosene as I worked the bearings and things are rolling very smoothly I did get some dirty crud out the hollow axle ends and the hub shell port. I will dig into it in day or so. I could hear the pawls moving around in there.
The pull chain has half a broken link at the chain pin and the threaded pin section looks to be different than indicators for the AW hub, will these possibly swap out?
This could be a problem. The SW rod has a collar and is thinner than an AW pin.
Sheldon Brown & links provided by his SW page pretty much tell all about the shortcomings of the SW hub in an understandable way.
The pull chain has half a broken link at the chain pin and the threaded pin section looks to be different than indicators for the AW hub, will these possibly swap out?
This could be a problem. The SW rod has a collar and is thinner than an AW pin.
Sheldon Brown & links provided by his SW page pretty much tell all about the shortcomings of the SW hub in an understandable way.
Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 02-08-18 at 12:15 PM.
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It's an interesting design: slightly wider gear range than the AW, and far fewer parts inside, none of which interchange with the AW. It's much easier to overhaul than the AW, and slightly lighter.
Its "Achilles heel" are the springless pawls, which while contributing greatly to the ease of overhaul also introduced their own problems. As noted above, they can chip under heavy use, but OTOH, can be flipped around to get a fresh new wear surface.
But the biggest issue, in my experience, is poor cold weather performance. The springless pawls in general take longer to engage than sprung pawls, and when the temperature gets cold enough (~0°C or colder), often fail to engage at all for several full crank revolutions.
Sheldon Brown's SW page does include a description of modifying the hub to use flat springs, which eliminates this problem. But in my experience, it's not a permanent fix. The pawls rock back and forth on the flat springs, and eventually wear through the springs, requiring replacement.
But, if you intend to ride in reasonably warm conditions, and/or are willing to modify the hub to use flats springs, the SW isn't bad. The unmodified hub is eerie-quiet, and even the modified hub is quieter than an AW. The wider gear range may be appreciated as well.
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 02-08-18 at 08:09 AM.
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I find the ticking soothing as well. Now that I own an SW I will put it to good use though it may not be as sturdy as an AW. I cleaned off the external crud & filled & flushed it with kerosene as I worked the bearings and things are rolling very smoothly I did get some dirty crud out the hollow axle ends and housing port. I will dig into it in day or so. I could hear the pawls moving around in there.
The pull chain has half a broken link at the chain pin and the threaded pin section looks to be different than indicators for the AW hub, will these possibly swap out?
This could be a problem. The SW rod has a collar and is thinner than an AW pin.
Sheldon Brown & links provided by his SW page pretty much tell all about the shortcomings of the SW hub in an understandable way.
The pull chain has half a broken link at the chain pin and the threaded pin section looks to be different than indicators for the AW hub, will these possibly swap out?
This could be a problem. The SW rod has a collar and is thinner than an AW pin.
Sheldon Brown & links provided by his SW page pretty much tell all about the shortcomings of the SW hub in an understandable way.
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I believe the SW indicator is a two-piece unit as shown in this diagram. I think I might actually have one if you need a replacement.
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It's a long winter in Minnesota.
This is removed from the subject . Watching the morning news at 5am this story was told.
Failure to Launch: Man Hurt After Jumping 'Rocket Bike' Off Roof in Willmar | KSTP.com
As I browsed craigslist this afternoon this ad popped up- the same contraption shown on the news
Rocket Bike - $100 (Willmar)
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/d...488891703.html
This is removed from the subject . Watching the morning news at 5am this story was told.
Failure to Launch: Man Hurt After Jumping 'Rocket Bike' Off Roof in Willmar | KSTP.com
As I browsed craigslist this afternoon this ad popped up- the same contraption shown on the news
Rocket Bike - $100 (Willmar)
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/d...488891703.html

Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 02-08-18 at 04:49 PM.
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^^ There is no substitute for good old-fashioned stupid.
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So the difference between an AW top & SW below is a no brainer. They are different animals. The collar is a threaded bushing of sorts that screws on the threads inside the hub. The broken link is guarantee fail not to mention the twisted chain.
Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 02-08-18 at 09:53 PM.
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Are my pictures posting? I'v been told not.