For the love of English 3 speeds...
#1526
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Looks like it would work and wouldn't be that far off. Just from a different time period I think. You could always put it on now and find a matching crank later that matches your other driveside.
It depends on the price. Like I said before I used to find these cranks attached to a whole bike every few weeks in the $40 price range. I'm looking for a non-drive sie crank myself for my last purchase as it came without one and it looks like the market dried up here too for a while.
It depends on the price. Like I said before I used to find these cranks attached to a whole bike every few weeks in the $40 price range. I'm looking for a non-drive sie crank myself for my last purchase as it came without one and it looks like the market dried up here too for a while.
#1527
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Post "looking for a Raleigh Twenty crank" on the folding bikes forum, see what happens. Most of the Raleigh Twenty fans are to be found there, rather than here, and have already upgraded to cotterless.
For what it's worth, my Raleigh Twenties have the left side crank arm shown above, and the more angular arm on the drive side. In other words, they came from the factory with non-matching crank arms.
For what it's worth, my Raleigh Twenties have the left side crank arm shown above, and the more angular arm on the drive side. In other words, they came from the factory with non-matching crank arms.
#1528
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Post "looking for a Raleigh Twenty crank" on the folding bikes forum, see what happens. Most of the Raleigh Twenty fans are to be found there, rather than here, and have already upgraded to cotterless.
For what it's worth, my Raleigh Twenties have the left side crank arm shown above, and the more angular arm on the drive side. In other words, they came from the factory with non-matching crank arms.
For what it's worth, my Raleigh Twenties have the left side crank arm shown above, and the more angular arm on the drive side. In other words, they came from the factory with non-matching crank arms.
#1529
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I don't know of any difference between the cranks on Raleigh Twenties and Raleigh Superbes, though I admit I have not actually compared them side by side.
#1530
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I am not sure either and was just saying it. Anyways I posted a Wanted thread in the folder section hopefully someone have a spare one lying around. Thanks anyways!
#1531
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Cool. Good luck!
#1532
Cottered Crank
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Ask for a complete junk bike. You might get lucky. Just about anything will work for you that came out of Nottingham. It really doesn't matter how ugly it is either because it is amazing how they will clean up with a little bit of Oxalic Acid in weak solution.
Look for the brands on this page here. Most of that stuff will work for you. If you can get it cheap/free and has a bunch of part you can at least get a Frankenbike running so you can ride it. Then you can replace stuff little by little with exactly correct parts later if you still want to make it perfect.
Look for the brands on this page here. Most of that stuff will work for you. If you can get it cheap/free and has a bunch of part you can at least get a Frankenbike running so you can ride it. Then you can replace stuff little by little with exactly correct parts later if you still want to make it perfect.
#1533
Schwinnasaur
Is it 'not right' to put these kind of crankset on my Superbe? Notice those crank arms are rounded edges instead. I've been looking for the original crank for my bike long enough and I am finding alternatives. 46t and regular non-rounded edge crank is just hard to find! I search around ebay and ebay uk almost every single day. 



I would like to trade even for a rear rack in Bronze Green in similar condition. I am not sure if this is an even trade. I have not been following eBay of late except for the price of R nuts, which is obscene.
Email if you are interested in discussing this.
#1534
aka Tom Reingold
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I have just fallen completely in love with my 1960 or 1961 Rudge. I have it just about the way I want it. It has the whitewall Schwalbe tires and a Brooks B72 saddle. Everything is original except fo the tires, one spoke, one chainguard attachment bolt, and the rear sprocket. I went from an 18 to a 22.
I rode it last night 11 miles to Montclair State University to perform in a masters thesis composition recital. I was quite a spectacle wearing a suit and tie going through all those streets, and I got a lot of waves and hollers and astonished looks.
The trips there and back took a long time, but I enjoyed them a lot.
Today I took the bike to Manhattan wig me, on the train. I'm typing this message on the train back to NJ with he bike leaning up against me. Tonight in the train station, a young woman took a picture of me with her phone. Life is so funny!
I rode it last night 11 miles to Montclair State University to perform in a masters thesis composition recital. I was quite a spectacle wearing a suit and tie going through all those streets, and I got a lot of waves and hollers and astonished looks.
The trips there and back took a long time, but I enjoyed them a lot.
Today I took the bike to Manhattan wig me, on the train. I'm typing this message on the train back to NJ with he bike leaning up against me. Tonight in the train station, a young woman took a picture of me with her phone. Life is so funny!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#1536
aka Tom Reingold
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And surprisingly, the bike is incredible agile in traffic. I can make tight turns at high speeds. It brakes extremely well with Kool Stop brake shoes on the original calipers and rims. Shifting in traffic is great, because my first gear is now super low. Whenever I brake, I shift down. I pedal again when it's time to pedal, and in two strokes, I shift back up. I shift because I can. And it's nice.
It's slow, though, but I don't mind. I can do almost anything with this bike, including bang it around. It's very sturdy and reliable. It's dented and rusted, so I don't worry about ruining the way it looks. And it takes some effort to dent it further.
I might shine it up eventually, but not soon. I might upgrade the rims or tires or both one day, but I'm happy with them for now. The brakes are really amazing in the dry. I don't know what they'll be like in the wet.
I need a bell!
It's slow, though, but I don't mind. I can do almost anything with this bike, including bang it around. It's very sturdy and reliable. It's dented and rusted, so I don't worry about ruining the way it looks. And it takes some effort to dent it further.
I might shine it up eventually, but not soon. I might upgrade the rims or tires or both one day, but I'm happy with them for now. The brakes are really amazing in the dry. I don't know what they'll be like in the wet.
I need a bell!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#1537
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
Tom...Just wipe the frame and exposed bits down with a little light oil... you will be amazed at the transformation and it provides a very good shield against moisture as well.
#1538
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Only difference is I use the heavy weight transmission oil for the first go around, put it on heavy and let it sit overnight, then wipe off. Maintenance consists of wiping the bike down with an oily rag every now and again.
Aaron

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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#1539
Cottered Crank
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I think I have one (46T) that is in very nice condition BUT it is from a Royal Scot, Raleigh B line, and is not the Heron pattern. No R nuts either. One of the cranks shows a little tinge of rust but I think it would clean.
I would like to trade even for a rear rack in Bronze Green in similar condition. I am not sure if this is an even trade. I have not been following eBay of late except for the price of R nuts, which is obscene.
Email if you are interested in discussing this.
I would like to trade even for a rear rack in Bronze Green in similar condition. I am not sure if this is an even trade. I have not been following eBay of late except for the price of R nuts, which is obscene.
Email if you are interested in discussing this.
This guy makes a set for $20 plus shipping. Don't forget to add that to the price of acquiring the nuts themselves if the set you have isn't OEM and/or serviceable condition.
If the OP isn't interested in that crankset I would be willing to trade you a set of R nuts for just the left-side e crank if it is 165mm.
#1540
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Be aware that the R-nuts only work with original raleigh-threaded cotters. New commercially-available cotters have a different threading that the old R-nuts are not compatible with. There is a guy out there machining the cotters with the Raleigh thread but they aren't as cheap as the ones you can buy at a bike shop.
This guy makes a set for $20 plus shipping. Don't forget to add that to the price of acquiring the nuts themselves if the set you have isn't OEM and/or serviceable condition.
If the OP isn't interested in that crankset I would be willing to trade you a set of R nuts for just the left-side e crank if it is 165mm.
This guy makes a set for $20 plus shipping. Don't forget to add that to the price of acquiring the nuts themselves if the set you have isn't OEM and/or serviceable condition.
If the OP isn't interested in that crankset I would be willing to trade you a set of R nuts for just the left-side e crank if it is 165mm.

#1541
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Are Raleigh partsd really a pickle to find? you should see how many of them things I always have, where abouts are you in ontario Ahson? I always have alot of Raleigh stuff.
#1542
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#1543
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Depends on where you are...
In my part of NC they are quite scarce, none of the current bike shops maintain any vintage stock, in fact one throws "old junk" out on a regular basis, however I act like a dumpster and catch most of it.

Aaron

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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#1544
Get off my lawn!
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In NYC/NJ they're pretty common, conditon varies quite a bit.
#1545
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After some cleaning on the bits, nuts, bolts, I decided to take a picture on some of the 'stuff' that I've removed from the bike so far. 
Bits, Nuts, Cranks, Stem, Hub... by W....., on Flickr


#1546
Schwinnasaur
[QUOTE=Amesja;12437457If the OP isn't interested in that crankset I would be willing to trade you a set of R nuts for just the left-side e crank if it is 165mm.[/QUOTE]
I will check on the size tomorrow. I would like to keep the set together with the sprocket and axle. I now have slight surplus, 1 extra R nut, for crank so I am not looking for them any longer.
I would like to find an original rack, bronze green in good condition and could make up any difference in parts or cash. Would also consider a vintage Pletchor (sp?) rack.
I will check on the size tomorrow. I would like to keep the set together with the sprocket and axle. I now have slight surplus, 1 extra R nut, for crank so I am not looking for them any longer.
I would like to find an original rack, bronze green in good condition and could make up any difference in parts or cash. Would also consider a vintage Pletchor (sp?) rack.
#1547
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I will check on the size tomorrow. I would like to keep the set together with the sprocket and axle. I now have slight surplus, 1 extra R nut, for crank so I am not looking for them any longer.
I would like to find an original rack, bronze green in good condition and could make up any difference in parts or cash. Would also consider a vintage Pletchor (sp?) rack.
I would like to find an original rack, bronze green in good condition and could make up any difference in parts or cash. Would also consider a vintage Pletchor (sp?) rack.
https://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-70s-RALE...item4aa9dd3804
#1548
Count Orlok Member
After some cleaning on the bits, nuts, bolts, I decided to take a picture on some of the 'stuff' that I've removed from the bike so far. 
Bits, Nuts, Cranks, Stem, Hub... by W....., on Flickr


#1549
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#1550
Schwinnasaur
Pretty much that or a Pletchor. I will likely try to snipe it. There looks to be another one perhaps in a little a better condition but not as many pics to tell.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT