clubman 

Flashing is usually too thick. If you're using an alloy stem, the best solution is a shim that wraps around the bars once or slightly less than so as to not create a stress riser. Brass shim stock comes in variable thicknesses if a beer can doesn't work.

Ghrumpy

The problem with using beer can aluminum or lead is that they are very malleable, and that property doesn't change once it's installed. Under cyclic pressure it will continue to get thinner and thinner. Brass is far less malleable, and is usually fine. Steel shim would be best as a set-and-forget solution.

Chaser95

This is great! Thanks to all. I will need to lengthen my cables as Big Chief suggested. My one original which is on the shifter is close now. Are there any cable housings that are preferred or, especially some I should avoid.

BigChief 

I used lead chimney flashing. I hammered it to the desired thickness and trimmed the edges to the clamp width. I cut the length so there was a gap over the gap in the clamp. It conforms easily to inside diameter of the clamp and holds the bars firmly. Lead flashing will work well for this application. It's not going to compress and it's supported on both sides. It's not so soft that it will ooze out the sides. There's nowhere for it to go. Works fine. No reason not to use it if you have material handy. Brass shim stock or aluminum would be fine also. I would pick those over unplated steel only because of rust, but since we're only talking about a .030 shim inside of a clamp, that probably wouldn't actually matter.

Ghrumpy

My neighbor gave me a 1964 Phillips Ladies' roadster today. Has what appears to be a functioning S-A twist grip shifter. Probably hasn't been ridden in 35 years. Original EA3 front tire even. She's going to look for the fork key, it wasn't with it.

Unfortunately it's covered in red spray paint, probably from her kids' attempt to make it cooler and faster. Going to try to strip that off without damaging the factory black enamel. But the Brooks saddle is burnt toast, and the tires probably too. Trying to decide whether it's worth it to spiff it up a bit and sell, or not. It's way too tiny for me, and I don't often ride in a kilt.

Ima Tumor

My friend was gifted a 1957 Norman 3 speed in average condition.
It is all original except seat.
He is not into vintage. I have photos

johnnyspaghetti

Please we love photos, Please

Chaser95

I know Raleigh built many different brands. I saw an ad for an American Flyer that has the "Raleigh Look" right down to the ribbed cables. Is it Raleigh built? Thanks!

thumpism

I have a head badge for an American Flyer stating it was built by Schwinn for Louisville Cycle, so anything is possible.

Chaser95

The ad said American Flyer but, the bike says Western Flyer for those of us who remember Western Auto Stores. Looks a lot like my wife's 74 Phillips.

BigChief 

Nice. This is an older one too. A good 10 years older than your wife's Phillips. Except for the seat, it looks all original. This bike was made by Raleigh at it's Nottingham factory. Looks like it would clean up nicely.

Ballenxj

If I remember correctly, Western Auto stores were like a combo automotive, and hardware store that happened to also sell guns and bicycles. I'm pretty sure my first bicycle was a Western Flyer.

BigChief 

The Western Auto in my town was very bicycle oriented. It had a whole wall of bicycle accessories. I remember buying the wire baskets for my paper route there. Darn, I'm getting old.

noglider 

@Chaser95, that's definitely a Raleigh.

Chaser95

Thanks for the confirmation guys! I am picking it up this evening........and another mystery bike.

ascherer 

Likewise, at 15-16 years old it was my go-to source for cheap parts and tools.

boattail71

I hope it's just my eyes but in photo one, is the down tube slightly bent near the head tube?

clubman 

My thought as well but the fork looks fine. Camera distortion? Forks been straightened?

Take a pump with you and make sure you test drive to see if it tracks straight. Unless it's dirt, dirt cheap...

Chaser95

Just got home. It was dirt cheap. Tires and tubes are rotten. Hub is dated July 62. Big Chief you were all over the date!

BigChief 

This looks like a fun project. I don't see much deep rust here. It's amazing what some time buffing the paint with polishing compound and wax will do for a bike like this. All of the scratches and different areas of fading will still be there, but with all the dirt and grime gone and a little depth and gloss to the paint it won't look neglected and you'll end up with a more dignified old look. Looks like that soft dent could be worked out of the fender.

thumpism

Western Auto stores were still around in the late '80s when I began repping, and they were a cycling source in small towns where they were frequently the only cycling source.

BigChief 

Just for the fun of it, I'll point out some cool features on this bike in case you're interested. You can compare it to your 1974 Phillips which by then was Raleigh made also. In the late 50s, Raleigh bought out the Birmingham manufacturers Phillips, Hercules ect. and for a couple of years the old Birmingham style fenders appeared on some Raleigh made bikes like this one. I don't know if Raleigh tooled up to make these or if they were left over parts from the acquisition, but it didn't last long, only a couple of years. This bike has the Birmingham style fenders. This bike still has the lug in the right side chainstay for an enclosed chaincase. It may also have an oil port in the bottom bracket, which was gone by 1963-64. It also has the blunt ends at the fork dropouts instead of the later bullet style.

BigChief 

I had no idea they were around that long. I haven't seen one since I was a kid.

Chaser95

Thanks BC! I always like to learn more. Yes, there is an oil port in the bottom bracket. When I picked up the bike there was only slipping of the chain and no wheel action. A few sprays of lube on the linkage, shifter and in the hub and all gears are working. I was delighted to find another AW hub.

The only major damage I have noticed is the front light bracket is broken off. I checked the down tube in daylight and I am happy to report it is straight. I think there was a case if lens distortion. Thanks to the guys with questioning eyes! I need all the help I can get.

The main reason I bought this bike is that I simply can't bring myself to tear down my Raleigh Sports because I want to ride all the time!! So, my plan is to overhaul the Western Flyer and when it is ready I will ride it and rebuild the Raleigh.

Thanks to EVERYONE for their knowledge and sharp eyes! Much appreciated!

BigChief 

If you're inclined to, it would be fun to see pictures as your project comes along. For me, it's the next best thing to having a project bike going myself. And for some reason I always get more excited about the older ones, say early 60s and back. It must be a nostalgia thing since these were the bikes that started me on my hobby of rescuing old broken English bikes in my younger days.