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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 04-08-18, 11:51 AM
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Originally our old 3 speeds used varnish transfers. These new ones are vinyl transfers and are much more durable. No need to clear coat. They are just as tough as all the vinyl transfers you see today on signs, trucks and pretty much any graphics you see around. A few of the things like the 20-30 High Tensile and the gold seat tube strips are peel and press on stickers, but the others are transfers sandwiched between 2 pieces of paper. Plenty of instructions on you tube about applying vinyl transfers.
Personally, I prefer doing my own enamel paint jobs...as long as it's black.
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Old 04-08-18, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
Nice bike @gster ! Didn't see you at Brantford Winter this year. I do like a Robin Hood, in any guise. That saddle may help to keep costs down. Going to have a closer look. Where was it purchased?
Didn't make it Brantford, work has been taking up to much of my time lately.
Bike was a Kijiji listing out in west hill.
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Old 04-08-18, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
@gster: lovely bike! I am jealous as all of the 3-speeds I have picked up in the past 5 years have been fun but the paint and decals never seems to come up as well as the bikes posted here.
Keep in mind that they always look better in photos than in person.
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Old 04-08-18, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
A few other threads asked a question about these bikes that I don't think was entirely answered. With a full alloy conversion--rims, seat post, stem, handlebars, crankset, pedals, maybe brakes and levers--and plastic fenders, could the weight be brought down to 25 or 26 pounds? Asking for a friend, of course.

I actually did just that with my first ever Raleigh Twenty, but haven’t weighed it. I’ll have to dig up the before and after photos. Or if you want to dig around you can find them on this forum......

Actually if you go to Flickr and search Velocivixen, then look in albums for “1971 Raleigh Twenty Before/After” I’ve got about 69 photos.
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Old 04-08-18, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Originally our old 3 speeds used varnish transfers. These new ones are vinyl transfers and are much more durable. No need to clear coat. They are just as tough as all the vinyl transfers you see today on signs, trucks and pretty much any graphics you see around. A few of the things like the 20-30 High Tensile and the gold seat tube strips are peel and press on stickers, but the others are transfers sandwiched between 2 pieces of paper. Plenty of instructions on you tube about applying vinyl transfers.
Personally, I prefer doing my own enamel paint jobs...as long as it's black.
Thanks BC: I haven't decided to go the powder coat route; was just wondering about the decals if one does take that path. I was quite satisfied with my work painting another frame, however to be honest I found the paint extremely soft for more than 1 year after I painted it.....powder coating just seems so much more immediate, and they have sandblasters etc and my arm is getting tired just thinking of taking the Humber down to bare metal!
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Old 04-08-18, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Some more photos.
The very nice trigger came with the bike as well as the calipers and pedals. All in good condition.
I didn't check but I'm sure I've got an 18T cog on the back but will likely swap out for a 20 or 22.
Attachment 606360

Attachment 606361

Attachment 606362

Attachment 606363

Attachment 606364
I took the bike out today for a short shakedown ride and have some notes:
All in all, quite sturdy and rideable.
-One cotter seems to be loose and needs seating.
-Will swap out rear cog with a 22T next weekend.
-A fresh chain would improve the appearance.
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Old 04-08-18, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
Thanks BC: I haven't decided to go the powder coat route; was just wondering about the decals if one does take that path. I was quite satisfied with my work painting another frame, however to be honest I found the paint extremely soft for more than 1 year after I painted it.....powder coating just seems so much more immediate, and they have sandblasters etc and my arm is getting tired just thinking of taking the Humber down to bare metal!
Something to consider with both sandblasting and powder coating. There are good jobs and poor jobs. It's best if the person doing the job has some sensitivity toward restoring vintage bicycles.
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Old 04-08-18, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
-Will swap out rear cog with a 22T next weekend.
Curious, how many teeth does the current cog have, and what do three speeds usually have on the rear cog? TIA.
@ BigChief, from my experience with cars, the quality usually reflects directly on the person doing the prep work.
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Old 04-09-18, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ballenxj
Curious, how many teeth does the current cog have, and what do three speeds usually have on the rear cog? TIA.
@ BigChief, from my experience with cars, the quality usually reflects directly on the person doing the prep work.
I haven't actually counted but it feels like an 18T, which I think was the standard factory cog.
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Old 04-09-18, 05:00 AM
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18T does seem to be the most common. Keep in mind that in the early 70s, Raleigh changed from a 48T chain ring to 46T. When I was riding my 48T x 22T semi scorcher around flat southern Florida, I found the gearing to be a bit too low. Even the stiffest headwind didn't cause me to use low gear. Without hills to climb, I had no use for it. A comfortable tempo in high gear got me to, I'll guess around 15 mph. I figure that would be a fair trade off if I needed a lower low for hill climbing, but for flat land 18T or maybe 20T would be better for me with the 48T chain ring.
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Old 04-09-18, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
18T does seem to be the most common. Keep in mind that in the early 70s, Raleigh changed from a 48T chain ring to 46T. When I was riding my 48T x 22T semi scorcher around flat southern Florida, I found the gearing to be a bit too low. Even the stiffest headwind didn't cause me to use low gear. Without hills to climb, I had no use for it. A comfortable tempo in high gear got me to, I'll guess around 15 mph. I figure that would be a fair trade off if I needed a lower low for hill climbing, but for flat land 18T or maybe 20T would be better for me with the 48T chain ring.
I'll count teeth this weekend and make a plan as to what cog to use. I've got 18/19 and 22 in stock.
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Old 04-09-18, 11:00 AM
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Here's an "after" of the Bottom bracket. Oh, and a "before" as a reminder.

1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr


1971 R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr
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Old 04-09-18, 11:51 AM
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Well that cleaned up nicely - good work.
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Old 04-09-18, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Here's an "after" of the Bottom bracket. Oh, and a "before" as a reminder.

1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr


1971 R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr
Quite the improvement.
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Old 04-09-18, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
I think most of the round cranks were either shorter, had less teeth or both. Typical of junior bikes maybe, and with that Twenty's of course. Vv, how long are your crank arms?
The rounded crank arm were used more in the 1950s and 1960s. My understanding was that the Twentys were made in the 1970s, which made a rounded crank arm with eye herons unusual- that is a 1960s part at the latest. Dunelt also used rounded crank arms; not sure how late but into the late 1960s for sure. The crank arm length was 165mm on all the examples I've seen, with chainwheels of either 44 or 46 teeth (the 44 tooth units are much more rare). The eyed herons on Vv's Twenty suggests that the crank was made years before the rest of the bike.
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Old 04-09-18, 01:51 PM
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My research on the Raleigh Twenty indicated that the first Twenty (it went by multiple names over the years) was manufactured in 1969 (anecdotal). If I recall exports to Canada then the US happened in around 1970 (again anecdotal). The first FOLDING Twenty was manufactured in 1971.

They originally came with the 451 20” wheels for all but the US. BMX was getting popular then & the US customers would have better access to the 406 20” tires.
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Old 04-09-18, 05:27 PM
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Anybody heard of an "English Ranger?" I'm sending a link to it to BigChief, as I'm not sure it should be posted here.
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Old 04-09-18, 06:54 PM
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If it's English and a 3-speed, it belongs. Post it up.
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Old 04-09-18, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Here's an "after" of the Bottom bracket. Oh, and a "before" as a reminder.
It might not have been that clean when it left the factory. It certainly sets a standard to be aspired to. Nice that you were able to get that adjustable cup out without chewing it to pieces.
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Old 04-09-18, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
If it's English and a 3-speed, it belongs. Post it up.
OK, The seller says it's English anyway. Does look it too. https://boise.craigslist.org/bik/d/1...555378595.html
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Old 04-10-18, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ballenxj
OK, The seller says it's English anyway. Does look it too. https://boise.craigslist.org/bik/d/1...555378595.html
Could be a Raleigh built hardware store bike or a Philips Ranger..
00A0A_gKUvkLlS4wT_600x450.jpg

tumblr_mj1xbysEKv1s6uu7ro1_1280.jpg

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Old 04-10-18, 03:36 AM
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This is the only 19 tooth hub gear in my fleet. 1958 SW hub.The hub case is actually smaller in diameter so it looks different side by side with SA hub. Its in good shape but haven't put in on anything yet. It has a higher 3rd & lower 1st & uses a 48T. I have a 17T that was on a 1970 Herc with a 44T SA hub.


ralg


knura washr.

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Old 04-10-18, 03:57 AM
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Raleigh Built Glider

Posted on Kijiji Toronto at a reasonable $165.00.
$_59.jpg
Just noticed it was a 5 speed...

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Old 04-10-18, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Here's an "after" of the Bottom bracket. Oh, and a "before" as a reminder.

1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr


1971 R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr
Next time as you get the cup out a bit, lube it and turn it back in a little, that puts a bit of lube on the inside. If you do this a couple of times it makes the extraction easier.
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Old 04-10-18, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Could be a Raleigh built hardware store bike or a Philips Ranger..
Attachment 606629
Thanks for your input. Philips Ranger?
I was also wondering about the headset on that bike, as it looks abnormally tall. Was that a stock item?
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