For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Awesome posts from everyone!
I took the DL-1 for a night ride tonight - I had to exercise my knee, the 'plica' part of it is inflamed but on the mend. The nicest part of the ride was pushing (walking) the bike up the final hill, and a friendly voice in the dark asking if I needed anything to help me get home. I thanked him for asking with a brief explanation of 'crook knee' and continued to the top for the final stretch home. The B33 saddle is finally conforming to my nether regions. For some time I've been considering swapping it out for a B72, but I'm glad I stayed the distance. Definitely my favourite bike to ride.
IMG20180425181702 by arty dave armour, on Flickr
There's a modern light strapped to the handlebars but it disappears into the background darkness. I really should revisit the Miller headlight I'd like to use on this bike.
I took the DL-1 for a night ride tonight - I had to exercise my knee, the 'plica' part of it is inflamed but on the mend. The nicest part of the ride was pushing (walking) the bike up the final hill, and a friendly voice in the dark asking if I needed anything to help me get home. I thanked him for asking with a brief explanation of 'crook knee' and continued to the top for the final stretch home. The B33 saddle is finally conforming to my nether regions. For some time I've been considering swapping it out for a B72, but I'm glad I stayed the distance. Definitely my favourite bike to ride.

There's a modern light strapped to the handlebars but it disappears into the background darkness. I really should revisit the Miller headlight I'd like to use on this bike.
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Funny you should mention this.... Derelict, a few blocks from my house. BB axle cut through, no idea why. It wouldn’t be all that difficult to make this a good bike again, although maybe not valuable, even here in Brooklyn. There’s a way to snap a U-lock quietly with a 2x4; I know because it happened to me, but I don’t know the trick. As for unbolting the very useful bits and pieces, it’s not worth the possibility of being arrested. Makes me sad.
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Funny you should mention this.... Derelict, a few blocks from my house. BB axle cut through, no idea why. It wouldn’t be all that difficult to make this a good bike again, although maybe not valuable, even here in Brooklyn. There’s a way to snap a U-lock quietly with a 2x4; I know because it happened to me, but I don’t know the trick. As for unbolting the very useful bits and pieces, it’s not worth the possibility of being arrested. Makes me sad.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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For dark green Raleighs I have found that Rustoleum 7733 Hunter Green is a good match. It does not match the bronze green.
I have a step through Belgian Raleigh that was missing a chain guard. I found a white chain guard on the auction site and prepped and painted it. It turned out to be a damn close match - from 5 feet away you cannot tell that it is not original except for the lack of a decal.
I have a step through Belgian Raleigh that was missing a chain guard. I found a white chain guard on the auction site and prepped and painted it. It turned out to be a damn close match - from 5 feet away you cannot tell that it is not original except for the lack of a decal.
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Funny you should mention this.... Derelict, a few blocks from my house. BB axle cut through, no idea why. It wouldn’t be all that difficult to make this a good bike again, although maybe not valuable, even here in Brooklyn. There’s a way to snap a U-lock quietly with a 2x4; I know because it happened to me, but I don’t know the trick. As for unbolting the very useful bits and pieces, it’s not worth the possibility of being arrested. Makes me sad.
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I don't think Raleigh exported any of the 28" wheeled bikes to the US during the 60s. They don't show up in the US catalogs until 1970. The 22" gents frame doesn't appear until the 1978 catalog. They may have sent them to Canada, I don't know, but by far the most common DL-1 you'll find in the US these days are 1970s 24" frame gents. The 1970 DL-1 Tourist does still have the 1960s style transfers and the black cased rear reflector.

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Last edited by BigChief; 04-25-18 at 04:35 PM.
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Too bad shipping one of these tanks would cost a fortune. I have one I don't need but bought it for the enjoyment of bringing it back to life. Its a 1977 Canadian import model which has no chaincase. Likely taken off at purchase. I have one on my 1979 Canadian model but they are truly a pain. The story goes that the American model got the smaller hockey stick style to save weight for tariffs that Canada was not subject to. If I find a smaller chain guard, I think I would install it. The bike will be going to the Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show in late June if its not sold before.
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Too bad shipping one of these tanks would cost a fortune. I have one I don't need but bought it for the enjoyment of bringing it back to life. Its a 1977 Canadian import model which has no chaincase. Likely taken off at purchase. I have one on my 1979 Canadian model but they are truly a pain. The story goes that the American model got the smaller hockey stick style to save weight for tariffs that Canada was not subject to. If I find a smaller chain guard, I think I would install it. The bike will be going to the Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show in late June if its not sold before.
I'd price it at $500.00 (in Toronto).
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I know I'm probably being greedy, but I'd like a 2nd DL-1. I'll keep looking but I think they're quite rare here (Australia). I'm going to look at a China Post roadster on Saturday, looks just like a 22" DL-1. Not sure what to expect, I've heard quality can vary...
BC I couldn't make it quite to the top before my knee was injured! Besides, you get to see a lot more when you're pushing the bike

BrownGW that should be an easy sale, looks to be in top condition. I remember you posting about the clean-up rebuild.
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I'm fine with the hockey stick chainguards on DL-1s. Enclosed chaincases are classy but rear wheel removal plenty difficult enough without one.
I have two. I really don't need two, but selling one off just seems to keep getting put on the back burner. Wonder why.
73DL1a by Billy Bones, on Flickr
DL-1 Roadster by Billy Bones, on Flickr
I have two. I really don't need two, but selling one off just seems to keep getting put on the back burner. Wonder why.


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Last edited by BigChief; 04-25-18 at 06:23 PM.
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Thanks, it was a total fluke, plus I had help from the sports field floodlights
I know I'm probably being greedy, but I'd like a 2nd DL-1. I'll keep looking but I think they're quite rare here (Australia). I'm going to look at a China Post roadster on Saturday, looks just like a 22" DL-1. Not sure what to expect, I've heard quality can vary...
BC I couldn't make it quite to the top before my knee was injured! Besides, you get to see a lot more when you're pushing the bike
BrownGW that should be an easy sale, looks to be in top condition. I remember you posting about the clean-up rebuild.

I know I'm probably being greedy, but I'd like a 2nd DL-1. I'll keep looking but I think they're quite rare here (Australia). I'm going to look at a China Post roadster on Saturday, looks just like a 22" DL-1. Not sure what to expect, I've heard quality can vary...
BC I couldn't make it quite to the top before my knee was injured! Besides, you get to see a lot more when you're pushing the bike

BrownGW that should be an easy sale, looks to be in top condition. I remember you posting about the clean-up rebuild.
They're heavy and cumbersome.
The metal can be soft.
Still, could be part of the fleet...
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I'm fine with the hockey stick chainguards on DL-1s. Enclosed chaincases are classy but rear wheel removal plenty difficult enough without one.
I have two. I really don't need two, but selling one off just seems to keep getting put on the back burner. Wonder why.
73DL1a by Billy Bones, on Flickr
DL-1 Roadster by Billy Bones, on Flickr
I have two. I really don't need two, but selling one off just seems to keep getting put on the back burner. Wonder why.


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A couple shots of a 1941 Schwinn New World 3-speed from this past weekend.



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Maybe a little closer to a Raleigh? I briefly owned a 22" Burmese roadster but at the time couldn't keep it. It was a cool looking bike but yeah, no match for the Raleigh.
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Those shark fin front fenders are just so cool. Really gave the bike a distinct look. Whoever decided to change to plain janes should have been run out of Chicago.
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Gster you have an Eastman roadster don't you? Do you think the Indian roadsters are better made or better metal than Chinese roadsters?
Maybe a little closer to a Raleigh? I briefly owned a 22" Burmese roadster but at the time couldn't keep it. It was a cool looking bike but yeah, no match for the Raleigh.
Maybe a little closer to a Raleigh? I briefly owned a 22" Burmese roadster but at the time couldn't keep it. It was a cool looking bike but yeah, no match for the Raleigh.
I have an Eastman Roadster that I originally bought when I realised that I couldn't afford a Pashley Path Racer.
I bought it and modified it to replicate the Pashley.
I bought this before i got into the 3 speeds.
It looks good...
p1100972.jpg
p1100970.jpg
Rod and lever brakes work as well as they can....
Geometry is very laid back with the front wheel way out front.
It doesn't get much use.
I also have an old (1957?) Flying Pigeon.
p1050369.jpg
This has drum brakes and is very heavy, no gears...
It doesn't see much use either.
It can only be ridden on level ground.
I still like them both and have had no issues with the quality of the materials used.
This Superbe was my first 3 Speed (since I was a kid) and it's still my everyday bike.
p1110162.jpg
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Yes that's right, the double top bars! I really like that frame with the 2 top bars close together. I didn't realise the bar ends dropped down. And that's why we all need 2 roadsters - 1 path racer 'scorcher', and 1 'full dress' roadster
That was the thing with the Burmese roadster too - no gears in a hilly area, and less knowledge at the time about bike tinkerings and internal gears.
Sir Mike what wheel size is the '41 Schwinn New World?

That was the thing with the Burmese roadster too - no gears in a hilly area, and less knowledge at the time about bike tinkerings and internal gears.
Sir Mike what wheel size is the '41 Schwinn New World?
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I didn't even know about Schwinn's filet brazed bikes when they were in production--just the standard heavyweight models, and the Paramounts. But reading the article on Sheldon's site, they seem like wonderful bikes and it seems a shame that Schwinn didn't highlight them. Could you post some closeups of the '41?
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I didn't even know about Schwinn's filet brazed bikes when they were in production--just the standard heavyweight models, and the Paramounts. But reading the article on Sheldon's site, they seem like wonderful bikes and it seems a shame that Schwinn didn't highlight them. Could you post some closeups of the '41?

The New World could come with a US-style one-piece crank, but also could be bought with three-piece cottered cranks. Schwinn was "modern" in its view of branding - that is to say, it put its name everywhere it could. Cranks were stamped "Schwinn" and the chainrings sometimes had the company's initials.

Graphics:

I keep an eye out for reference pictures because I find the Schwinn experiment so interesting. They were trying to sell decent bikes to adults in the 1930s-40s in the US, when the "bike boom" was still a generation away. They couldn't compete with the automobile, especially after the war.
I found pictures of a bare New World frame on the internet, which show the brazing joints nicely:
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Amen on that.
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