For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Very nice Veloman, I like that rack on the back, I've seen them a lot discarded at the local recycling centre, but always thought they were 60's/70's. Are they older than that? There's a good amount of greasy dirt protecting the important bits of the bike...should hopefully clean up well.
I visited a guy I'd been emailing about parts and picked up some nice bits and pieces I'd been looking for - an early fifties sturmey archer front drum, a philco rear brake, williams 5 pin cranks, and some really nice brake levers matched to the brakes. He also offered me a 30's bike with 28 x 1 3/8" (642mm) wheels for a price I couldn't refuse. Again, this would most likely have been built here in Australia with English tubing and parts. Yesterday on the way home I stopped at an antique shop that had 2 probably 50's Speedwells down the end of their lane, a ladies with a rear beautiful chrome westwood 26 x 1/12 wheel, and a mens roadster with front 28" painted westwood wheel in really good condition and some nice Williams cranks. Both for $40, so for parts these will be great, as the front westwood wheel I have for my existing Speedwell roadster is a bit iffy on the inside, possibly unsafe to use.
So the arrival of the 30's bike has decided for me the need to let go of the Papillionaire along with 3 other bikes I had already earmarked for sale. The 30's bike has a flip flop hub but I'll lace in a SA 3 speed or an S5 might be nice with the hills around here.
Almost forgot! The whole point of this story was to mention the woven fabric coated brake outer that came with the Sturmey front drum and lever. The steel outer is in good condition so I think I'll give the shoelace covering idea a go. (That Big Chief posted about a while back)
I visited a guy I'd been emailing about parts and picked up some nice bits and pieces I'd been looking for - an early fifties sturmey archer front drum, a philco rear brake, williams 5 pin cranks, and some really nice brake levers matched to the brakes. He also offered me a 30's bike with 28 x 1 3/8" (642mm) wheels for a price I couldn't refuse. Again, this would most likely have been built here in Australia with English tubing and parts. Yesterday on the way home I stopped at an antique shop that had 2 probably 50's Speedwells down the end of their lane, a ladies with a rear beautiful chrome westwood 26 x 1/12 wheel, and a mens roadster with front 28" painted westwood wheel in really good condition and some nice Williams cranks. Both for $40, so for parts these will be great, as the front westwood wheel I have for my existing Speedwell roadster is a bit iffy on the inside, possibly unsafe to use.
So the arrival of the 30's bike has decided for me the need to let go of the Papillionaire along with 3 other bikes I had already earmarked for sale. The 30's bike has a flip flop hub but I'll lace in a SA 3 speed or an S5 might be nice with the hills around here.
Almost forgot! The whole point of this story was to mention the woven fabric coated brake outer that came with the Sturmey front drum and lever. The steel outer is in good condition so I think I'll give the shoelace covering idea a go. (That Big Chief posted about a while back)
Last edited by arty dave; 05-10-18 at 08:19 PM.
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You probably already know these things, but I really like this project bike and can't resist talking about it. Here's a couple parts I see missing.
This is the correct lamp bracket for this period Raleigh. There are 4 different variants that I know of. You can't see in this picture, but this one mounts on the steering tube top like the more modern ones. Earlier versions bolted onto the handlebar clamp. This steering tube mounted, skinny neck heron is the one you would need.
Here's the frame mounted cable guide wheel that is original to this bike.
This is the correct lamp bracket for this period Raleigh. There are 4 different variants that I know of. You can't see in this picture, but this one mounts on the steering tube top like the more modern ones. Earlier versions bolted onto the handlebar clamp. This steering tube mounted, skinny neck heron is the one you would need.
Here's the frame mounted cable guide wheel that is original to this bike.
One favor to ask: Anyone with the 23-in Sports frame, what's the length of the top tube, center seat tube to center head tube? It's 22 inches on my Rudge; wondering if or by how much it goes up with the larger frame.
Last edited by paulb_in_bkln; 05-10-18 at 05:04 PM.
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Thanks, Chief, glad you like it 
Interesting stuff. Now I know what to look for.
I also found this blog that has some useful information on a similar bike too.
Peter

Interesting stuff. Now I know what to look for.
I also found this blog that has some useful information on a similar bike too.
Peter
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I measure 21 3/4" on my mid-'70s 23" men's Sports. Need the measurement for the ladies' 23" also? That bike is more difficult to reach at the moment.
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Thanks for the recommendations folks. The Dutch bike rack looks really appealing. Perhaps when I install one the streets in my city will suddenly become more like Amsterdam.
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Ah, found it. Here's a picture of 3 headlamp bracket variations. I don't know the timeline for these except that I have seen the skinny heron on pre 1955 Raleighs.

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Ive had a pretty interesting early Spring this year and have finally been able to finish my first 3-speed project. I had a lot of help from a friend, but I also got a lot of info from members here - THANKS! Just when the weather was going to allow for some serious riding, I found out I had a pulmonary embolism and pneumonia. That certainly put the kibosh on doing the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour with my friend this weekend. Fortunately, the embolism has dissolved and the pneumonia has disappeared - now I just have to deal with the blood thinners for a few months. The bike is a conglomeration of parts I assembled from various sources: 1963 frame and 1965 everything else except the fork. I just hauled it out of my shop, and it rides great. I think I need to replace the shift cable (too short) and the brake pads (hard as a rock). Otherwise, it's good to go!

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I had seen the bottom bracket tool in the link you posted too. Simple but ingenious

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Ive had a pretty interesting early Spring this year and have finally been able to finish my first 3-speed project. I had a lot of help from a friend, but I also got a lot of info from members here - THANKS! Just when the weather was going to allow for some serious riding, I found out I had a pulmonary embolism and pneumonia. That certainly put the kibosh on doing the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour with my friend this weekend. Fortunately, the embolism has dissolved and the pneumonia has disappeared - now I just have to deal with the blood thinners for a few months. The bike is a conglomeration of parts I assembled from various sources: 1963 frame and 1965 everything else except the fork. I just hauled it out of my shop, and it rides great. I think I need to replace the shift cable (too short) and the brake pads (hard as a rock). Otherwise, it's good to go!


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Ive had a pretty interesting early Spring this year and have finally been able to finish my first 3-speed project. I had a lot of help from a friend, but I also got a lot of info from members here - THANKS! Just when the weather was going to allow for some serious riding, I found out I had a pulmonary embolism and pneumonia. That certainly put the kibosh on doing the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour with my friend this weekend. Fortunately, the embolism has dissolved and the pneumonia has disappeared - now I just have to deal with the blood thinners for a few months. The bike is a conglomeration of parts I assembled from various sources: 1963 frame and 1965 everything else except the fork. I just hauled it out of my shop, and it rides great. I think I need to replace the shift cable (too short) and the brake pads (hard as a rock). Otherwise, it's good to go!
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Put some pads from Dia Compe called gray matter or #76s on a Sports five years ago and they've been good; still good, in fact. With the alloy CR18 rims they work well and they sure were not expensive.
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I see a couple of those guide wheels on ebay for not big money, but no sign of the lamp bracket. Anyone stumbling across a Rudge hand chainwheel for less than $25 I might be interested.
One favor to ask: Anyone with the 23-in Sports frame, what's the length of the top tube, center seat tube to center head tube? It's 22 inches on my Rudge; wondering if or by how much it goes up with the larger frame.
One favor to ask: Anyone with the 23-in Sports frame, what's the length of the top tube, center seat tube to center head tube? It's 22 inches on my Rudge; wondering if or by how much it goes up with the larger frame.
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Cool Raleigh alert for New Englanders. early post war gents Dawn Tourist in 23". I love bikes like this. Fresh find, needs help, not messed up, won't be expensive. Can't take on another project right now.
Dawn Tourist
Dawn Tourist
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I just saw a Rudge chainwheel literally an hour ago at a bike shop here in Toronto
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I was thinking (or whatever I do that approximates thinking) that salt is generally very hard on most materials. And I can't think of too many things that would soak up more salt than a leather bicycle saddle, especially one used on long rides in warm weather. Water itself isn't harmful to leather, AFAIK. Would it extend the life of a frequently ridden leather saddle if once or twice a year it got a soak in clear water for a few hours to leech out the salt? Let it dry naturally, then rub in some Proofide. I'm not going to ask Brooks because I figure they'd tell me to soak my head, not the saddle.
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I was thinking (or whatever I do that approximates thinking) that salt is generally very hard on most materials. And I can't think of too many things that would soak up more salt than a leather bicycle saddle, especially one used on long rides in warm weather. Water itself isn't harmful to leather, AFAIK. Would it extend the life of a frequently ridden leather saddle if once or twice a year it got a soak in clear water for a few hours to leech out the salt? Let it dry naturally, then rub in some Proofide. I'm not going to ask Brooks because I figure they'd tell me to soak my head, not the saddle.
However, an old dried out saddle can be revived with water.
Soak the saddle (submerge) in hot water for about 5 minutes,
pull it out and dry it off and then use some elastic bands
to re shape the sides.
Let it air dry for a couple of days and then treat with proof hide or mink oil etc.
I've done it to a couple of very old saddles that seemed beyond help and it works.
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Raleigh Tourist for sale in Hamilton, Ontario.
Seller is asking $450.00 but says it has a new saddle..
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...m_medium=email
Seller is asking $450.00 but says it has a new saddle..
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...m_medium=email

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Ive had a pretty interesting early Spring this year and have finally been able to finish my first 3-speed project. I had a lot of help from a friend, but I also got a lot of info from members here - THANKS! Just when the weather was going to allow for some serious riding, I found out I had a pulmonary embolism and pneumonia. That certainly put the kibosh on doing the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour with my friend this weekend. Fortunately, the embolism has dissolved and the pneumonia has disappeared - now I just have to deal with the blood thinners for a few months. The bike is a conglomeration of parts I assembled from various sources: 1963 frame and 1965 everything else except the fork. I just hauled it out of my shop, and it rides great. I think I need to replace the shift cable (too short) and the brake pads (hard as a rock). Otherwise, it's good to go!


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Leather's an organic material that will always break down but you can't really go wrong using the tried and true methods. I would never soak a useable saddle in water.
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I wouldn't do it to a saddle in good shape.
However, an old dried out saddle can be revived with water.
Soak the saddle (submerge) in hot water for about 5 minutes,
pull it out and dry it off and then use some elastic bands
to re shape the sides.
Let it air dry for a couple of days and then treat with proof hide or mink oil etc.
I've done it to a couple of very old saddles that seemed beyond help and it works.
However, an old dried out saddle can be revived with water.
Soak the saddle (submerge) in hot water for about 5 minutes,
pull it out and dry it off and then use some elastic bands
to re shape the sides.
Let it air dry for a couple of days and then treat with proof hide or mink oil etc.
I've done it to a couple of very old saddles that seemed beyond help and it works.

Last edited by paulb_in_bkln; 05-13-18 at 07:08 AM.
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Seems a low price for a Tourist but I'm not a judge of condition.
https://us.letgo.com/en/i/raleigh-bi...4-1b68f19d432a
https://us.letgo.com/en/i/raleigh-bi...4-1b68f19d432a
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Wow, another 23" Dawn Tourist. This one looks a little later than the other, but still early 50s. Replaced front wheel and , of course, grips. I like it!
edit: If the seller thinks it's from 1960, perhaps he's going by an AW hub date which would mean that the rear wheel is replaced also. The rim looks trashed anyway. So, might be missing both wheels, but still a great deal at $75.
edit: If the seller thinks it's from 1960, perhaps he's going by an AW hub date which would mean that the rear wheel is replaced also. The rim looks trashed anyway. So, might be missing both wheels, but still a great deal at $75.
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Last edited by BigChief; 05-13-18 at 08:04 AM.