browngw 

Celebrated Canada Day by riding "Sir Wayes A. Tonne" across town to our annual family 1st of July party. This season he is sporting a new Brooks B67 saddle, vintage Lucas Headlamp donated by a friend and a '70s Cat Eye Tail lamp. The lights have been converted to LED and are powered by a battery pack and switch under the saddle.

gster

Revisiting an Old Friend
I bought this 1964 Eaton's Glider several years ago and turned it into a semi scorcher
with inverted bars. As a result, it's sat there un-ridden most of the time.

A quick re visit today and the bars are back up and it's quite pleasant (for me) to ride.
It may go back into rotation.

Johno59

Wow, that is one fine bicycle!

BigChief 

I see you changed the stem too. Looks like a good 2 extra inches of reach.

BigChief 

What a beautiful roadster. Very well set up and outfitted. Pure class all around. The lights fit perfectly.

SirMike1983 

The 4th of July is coming up. I've been riding American-made Schwinn 3-speeds from the 1940s. This black New World and the blue Continental are both from 1947.

DQRider 

Sir Wayes A. Tonne is looking better than ever, and those are extraordinary photographs.

I'd like to read more about the LED conversions. But the burning question in my mind is: what camera are you using? The resolution is astounding!

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browngw 

Thanks for the kind words. I was about to say I took the shots with my cherished Sony NEX ILC and realized I actually used my Fuji Film XP Water /Shock/Dust Freeze Proof that I often carry in the bike. With decent lighting, it is capable of some good shots.

johnnyspaghetti

They are routed "English style" or the wrong side to be "American style". This is true. I didn't know what to think. They still work the same. Easy enough to switch around, but should I ? The rear cable is a fluted cable so it has been replaced. The others are smoothies.
If you recall I parts out one of these 1958 step thru Robin Hood Sports and have all parts whether or not the cables are the same I'll have dig and look. I gave that frame to my friend Jolio and he made a lamp out of it.
I can deal with left side rear, learned quickly but I am use to having the dog leash on the right & using rear on the right brake..I almost switched them around I'll wait. The dog (Penny the poodle) trots on the right side only.
I am not privy to the origins of this bike. I will find out more.

Johno59

For the LED conversion they recommend to mount the regulator btw the two poles on the dynohub itself. On my daughter's 1948 I put the regulator in the lamp housing itself. There's plenty of room for a reg and a battery if no dynohub.


Have always found the 'Lightweight' tag somewhat ironic - especially when considering how short and diminutive the average malnourished Brit was before WW2. However I've been riding my 1934 touring 'tank' with full panniers and rode this today and fair whipped along.


Can't have enough horseshoes in your life.


Must be the '''No weight - Cellulose\" mudguards that make all the difference.

BigChief 

This site sells LED conversions for both Dynohub and battery lights. The Rudge I'm working on now is my first Dynohub, so I've been doing some research.
LED

Johno59

I got mine from the site Big Chief linked in his post. It was pretty straight forward. The LED bulb screwed into the 74 year old mount (make sure you get the correct bulb base that is currently in your lamp.) As I said earlier, I put the regulator in the lamp housing. There is enough room in thete for ten, so no worries.

The only thing is both of my set-ups flicker. With the Dyno hub the faster you go the quicker the pulse. Back in the day the filament bulb got brighter the faster you went. I'm fine with that as I believe a flashing light is more visible to lunatic drivers - especially so during the daytime.
The site highlights all these trials and tribulations and provides meanful solutions.

Ballenxj

Oh BOY! Yet another Rabbit Hole to go down. I have to read through that sites products thoroughly. Thanks for the link,( I think).

johnnyspaghetti

I shelled out $100 American. He asked $150. Thats hard on the budget but I could get more than that for the front wheel. Its a complete unit.

johnnyspaghetti

Very nice but too new & way way too expensive.

johnnyspaghetti

This popped up for $50. If I here back I am running over.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...621568343.html

clubman 

The slack angles set you pretty far back so it's hard to get power over the pedals. I find it's best to reverse the seat clamp to move the saddle forward. Generally, most Sports were designed for an upright ride.

browngw 

Some "Sports Model"s were built with drop bars. Such is the case with my 1971 Robin Hood "Sports Model" (Was Robin Hood the only one to have the decal read "Sports Model"?). It has a very short stem and quite narrow bars by modern standards. I have toured for a few hours at a time and enjoyed it a lot. In fact where it is less comfortable is short errands around town as the brake levers are less accessible. If you normally ride with some drop bar bikes it becomes familiar quickly. Note Garmin on top tube, little room on bars.

DQRider 

Thanks, BigChief! I've filed it for future reference. There's just something wrong with using modern plastic rechargeable LED lights on an old British classic, in my mind. Maybe I'll do a dynohub someday...

.

Johno59

Robin Hood with period "drop bars"

rustystrings61 

1962-ish Dawes Realmrider 4-speed set up with modern drop bars, as used for a metric century in 2005. It worked nicely, but the angles are around 72 degrees parallel, and I think the Sports was what, 69 or 70 degrees parallel?

BigChief 

Well, there's no continuity from the center contact in the bulb socket to that central hot terminal on the switch board. Wonder what's wrong. Nice and clean in there. No corrosion at all. Looks like I'll have to take it apart and have a look inside. The socket looks to be held together with bent tabs. I was expecting to see a more solid socket in there like a tube with pressed in threads. This just has a thin ridge, cut and bent down a bit so it sort of engages the bulb thread. We'll see how it goes. Maybe the bulb will still work once it gets juice.

Ballenxj

From the sounds of it, you may want to try your hand at replacing the original socket with a newer, more well connected and grounded one. That would also give you more bulb options too.

Johno59

The brass reflector mirror is supposed to provide circuit continuity to the bulb. Bypass the mirror with a wire directly to the bulb mount. See if the LED illuminates when you actuate the Dynohub. The slightest rotation should illuminate the LED. Basically your bridging wire is doing what a brand new brass mirror and the securing bolts/clips would have done ie. provide continuity for the circuit.

Velognome 

'62 R Sports good for light touring...day rides