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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-04-18, 09:09 AM
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3-Speed Super Course, In-Process

The building didn't stop in my shop when Spring came this year. It slowed down a bit, but I had this project in the queue that needed dry ground outside so I could soda-blast the frame.

Here is what I started with:



The fork, fresh from soda-blasting:


I was surprised at the poor quality of the chrome plating under the paint. There were bubbles or pockmarks of some kind in the finish, which were hidden by the original paint.

Then I set to work with the rattle-can Rust-Oleum in Hunter Green and Almond Creme. Yes, this is a similar paint job to my Raysport Light Roadster, but the darker green on this one gives a more dramatic contrast.


The compound-curve, bamboo fenders work out really well with this color scheme.

These are only preliminary, test-ride/adjustment shots. The bike still needs a chainguard and proper cable-clips to replace the black zip-ties on there at the moment. Also, that's not the saddlebag that I will use on the finished project. It's just carrying the extra tube and flat-kit for these early rides. Another view:



I'm running a later model Sturmey-Archer AW hub on this bike. The one without an oil port. I've been draining and lubricating this one through the axle... Is that the correct procedure? Seems to work...

It will be complete in plenty of time for the ABCE (All British Cycling Event) in September. Depending on how it performs on longer rides, I may even ride this on next year's Lake Pepin Tour.



.
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Old 07-04-18, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
This popped up for $50. If I here back I am running over.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...621568343.html

It is the 4th of july and we communicated. tomorrow he has 4 old Raleighs, I'M stretching for $50 but have to .

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Old 07-04-18, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DQRider
The building didn't stop in my shop when Spring came this year. It slowed down a bit, but I had this project in the queue that needed dry ground outside so I could soda-blast the frame.

Here is what I started with:



The fork, fresh from soda-blasting:


I was surprised at the poor quality of the chrome plating under the paint. There were bubbles or pockmarks of some kind in the finish, which were hidden by the original paint.

Then I set to work with the rattle-can Rust-Oleum in Hunter Green and Almond Creme. Yes, this is a similar paint job to my Raysport Light Roadster, but the darker green on this one gives a more dramatic contrast.


The compound-curve, bamboo fenders work out really well with this color scheme.

These are only preliminary, test-ride/adjustment shots. The bike still needs a chainguard and proper cable-clips to replace the black zip-ties on there at the moment. Also, that's not the saddlebag that I will use on the finished project. It's just carrying the extra tube and flat-kit for these early rides. Another view:



I'm running a later model Sturmey-Archer AW hub on this bike. The one without an oil port. I've been draining and lubricating this one through the axle... Is that the correct procedure? Seems to work...

It will be complete in plenty of time for the ABCE (All British Cycling Event) in September. Depending on how it performs on longer rides, I may even ride this on next year's Lake Pepin Tour.



.
This bike is outstanding! Love the color. Hunter Green, I'll keep that in mind. Building a light weight roadster has been a daydream of mine for years. This one is inspiring.
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Old 07-04-18, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict
okay... so i tear apart the AWC coaster hub. Only problem so far is one ball bearing missing from left side retainer.

i dont understand how oil doesnt just leak all out?

and when oil leak out thru the bearing...isnt it washing the grease off of the bearings?

so like if you doing touring long distance...seems like you would need to add oil every day?






I've found that oil does leak out if you add too much. Which is a good thing if you're bringing a bike back on the road after a long time. It doesn't take much oil to keep things wet in the hub. It tends to spread around and last a long time. A few drops at the start of each season seems to work for me. I take mine apart every 5 years or so to regrease the bearings and there always is a nice thin coat of oil on the works and doesn't seem to degrade the grease on the bearings much.In fact, it might help it from drying out.
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Old 07-04-18, 11:44 AM
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I have to blow the budget again at $75 for this one.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...601393020.html

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Old 07-04-18, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I've found that oil does leak out if you add too much. Which is a good thing if you're bringing a bike back on the road after a long time. It doesn't take much oil to keep things wet in the hub. It tends to spread around and last a long time. A few drops at the start of each season seems to work for me. I take mine apart every 5 years or so to regrease the bearings and there always is a nice thin coat of oil on the works and doesn't seem to degrade the grease on the bearings much.In fact, it might help it from drying out.
Many Brit bearings have differing numbers of bearings on left and right sides. Something to do with the tight drive side and the slack non- drive side. The old ball-bearing adage " if in doubt leave one out" is grounded in this somewhat eccentric approach to balancing the load on bottom brackets, hub axles, pedals etc.
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Old 07-04-18, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
I have to blow the budget again at $75 for this one.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...601393020.html

Another nice one. Pre TI too. Again, English brake routing. Odd, most of the old 3 speeds I see here in New England except for rod brakes models were set up for right/rear operation. Personally, I like the look of the English style routing. The cables make a nice cross in front. Neater looking I think and I don't have any problem riding with them that way.
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Old 07-04-18, 02:33 PM
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I have no problem with the left/rear brakes on my 1958 Sun Cresta and agree with @BigChief that they do look good.
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Old 07-04-18, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I've found that oil does leak out if you add too much. Which is a good thing if you're bringing a bike back on the road after a long time. It doesn't take much oil to keep things wet in the hub. It tends to spread around and last a long time. A few drops at the start of each season seems to work for me. I take mine apart every 5 years or so to regrease the bearings and there always is a nice thin coat of oil on the works and doesn't seem to degrade the grease on the bearings much.In fact, it might help it from drying out.
If its making a mess you know you have enough
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Old 07-04-18, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Another nice one. Pre TI too. Again, English brake routing. Odd, most of the old 3 speeds I see here in New England except for rod brakes models were set up for right/rear operation. Personally, I like the look of the English style routing. The cables make a nice cross in front. Neater looking I think and I don't have any problem riding with them that way.
My fail is "TI" is What?All I
do is look at have

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Old 07-04-18, 04:26 PM
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TI is a company called Tube Investments that owned some of the other Brit brands of bikes before purchasing Raleigh in 1960. They There's probably more thorough info out there, but it's explained in this Wiki article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raleigh_Bicycle_Company
I like the earlier curve of Raleigh forks, like the curve on johnnyspags latest black step-through - I wonder if this is a pre-TI thing too? I don't know when they changed the curve.
Edit to add: maybe the fork curve is random? Sirweighsatonne has the curve I'm talking about, curvy all the way through to the drop-outs. Later forks seemed to have a sharper curve and then a straight just before the drop-outs. But Sirweighsatonne is a 70's DL-1 ?

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Old 07-04-18, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Another nice one. Pre TI too. Again, English brake routing. Odd, most of the old 3 speeds I see here in New England except for rod brakes models were set up for right/rear operation. Personally, I like the look of the English style routing. The cables make a nice cross in front. Neater looking I think and I don't have any problem riding with them that way.
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Old 07-04-18, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
The 4th of July is coming up. I've been riding American-made Schwinn 3-speeds from the 1940s. This black New World and the blue Continental are both from 1947.



...so nice, bet they ride really nicely
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Old 07-04-18, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DQRider


.
I've seen this colour scheme before and I really like it - black rims & tyres, dark green frame - looks great and like the cream in there too.
What kind of handlebars are you using? They look comfy. I have some that are very similar and would like to get hold of a 2nd for another bike. I find that handlebars for me make such a big difference to a comfortable bike. I think I must have about 10 spares at the moment from my quest for comfort. And on the roadworthy bikes I have different bars for different bikes.
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Old 07-04-18, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Velognome
'62 R Sports good for light touring...day rides
Cool Bike!! Makes me want to give drop bars one last go...I've never really tried them with a taller stem
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Old 07-04-18, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by arty dave
TI is a company called Tube Investments that owned some of the other Brit brands of bikes before purchasing Raleigh in 1960. They There's probably more thorough info out there, but it's explained in this Wiki article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raleigh_Bicycle_Company
I like the earlier curve of Raleigh forks, like the curve on johnnyspags latest black step-through - I wonder if this is a pre-TI thing too? I don't know when they changed the curve.
Edit to add: maybe the fork curve is random? Sirweighsatonne has the curve I'm talking about, curvy all the way through to the drop-outs. Later forks seemed to have a sharper curve and then a straight just before the drop-outs. But Sirweighsatonne is a 70's DL-1 ?
"Sir Wayes" is a 1979 DL1 for export to Canada. Sold at Periks Cycle in Hamilton Ontario. I will be hopefully selling this 1977 DL1 pictured here, this weekend at the CVBS in Brantford ON.
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Old 07-04-18, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by arty dave
I've seen this colour scheme before and I really like it - black rims & tyres, dark green frame - looks great and like the cream in there too.
What kind of handlebars are you using? They look comfy. I have some that are very similar and would like to get hold of a 2nd for another bike. I find that handlebars for me make such a big difference to a comfortable bike. I think I must have about 10 spares at the moment from my quest for comfort. And on the roadworthy bikes I have different bars for different bikes.
The handlebar is easy: Velo Orange Milan. I use these on bikes that I want to ride with a bit of forward lean.

The blackwall tires were a happy accident. I originally ordered Panaracer Paselas in 700c x 32 with the tan sidewall, but when I went to mount them, the first one had a slit in it, like it was nicked with a box cutter somewhere. So I pulled these down from the wall and mounted them instead. I might keep them on there, and maybe replace them with blackwall Paselas when they wear out. That color scheme works.

.
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Old 07-04-18, 07:56 PM
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This thread is making think about a three speed! A lot of them go for pretty in my area.
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Old 07-04-18, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DQRider
The handlebar is easy: Velo Orange Milan. I use these on bikes that I want to ride with a bit of forward lean.

The blackwall tires were a happy accident. I originally ordered Panaracer Paselas in 700c x 32 with the tan sidewall, but when I went to mount them, the first one had a slit in it, like it was nicked with a box cutter somewhere. So I pulled these down from the wall and mounted them instead. I might keep them on there, and maybe replace them with blackwall Paselas when they wear out. That color scheme works.

.
Thanks! Their Postino bars also looks good.
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Old 07-04-18, 09:57 PM
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The dunelt is coming along nicely.
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Old 07-05-18, 09:06 PM
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This Rudge project is fun. Lots of stuff to fix. Right now I'm considering how to touch up the old cloth cable housing covers. They are in pretty decent shape, but there are a few frayed spots. Just need something to glue the fibers together and stick to the steel housing.

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Old 07-05-18, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
This Rudge project is fun. Lots of stuff to fix. Right now I'm considering how to touch up the old cloth cable housing covers. They are in pretty decent shape, but there are a few frayed spots. Just need something to glue the fibers together and stick to the steel housing.

I've got one that looks like this too. The cloth on mine is really dry and cracking though, so I'm still thinking of doing the shoelace trick you posted about
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Old 07-06-18, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict
That Blue stuff is really hard to find. I had to drive all over town looking for it. I Finally, Lowes had some.

The Red stuff can be found every where...don't know what is the difference. I almost gave up looking and bought the Red stuff.
Good question.
Someone told me to use the blue....
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Old 07-06-18, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by arty dave
I've got one that looks like this too. The cloth on mine is really dry and cracking though, so I'm still thinking of doing the shoelace trick you posted about
They used black Plasti Dip to make those. I suppose that would work for small repairs like mine, but it's a long drive for me to get some and I'm hot and being lazy. If you have a cloth cable that's really beat, maybe it's possible to give the whole cable a coat. Worth a try, but it would be interesting to build entirely new ones with shoe laces.
I saved that link in case you lost it.
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Old 07-06-18, 06:05 AM
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Perhaps a few coats of clear shellac would fix up those cloth cable housings?
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