Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-06-18, 06:27 AM
  #17226  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
Perhaps a few coats of clear shellac would fix up those cloth cable housings?
I'm thinking along those lines too. I wish I had some badly damaged cables to experiment on.
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 08:57 AM
  #17227  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,213
Mentioned: 483 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3831 Post(s)
Liked 6,846 Times in 2,650 Posts
I'd stick with the retainer and replacing the missing ball.
nlerner is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 09:42 AM
  #17228  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,213
Mentioned: 483 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3831 Post(s)
Liked 6,846 Times in 2,650 Posts
Men's 1960s 21" Raleigh Sports on Boston's north shore for $30. While the handlebars might be beyond saving, the rims look remarkably rust free. Saddle might also be salvageable:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...635829498.html

nlerner is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 11:01 AM
  #17229  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
I am confused by Sheldon Brown webstite. It says to use white lithium grease on the gears. I thought I am not suppose to use grease on the gears, only oil. Did I misunderstand Sheldon Brown?




Confused some more by this below... Can't use oil lubrication?
Time was where I would wipe a light coating of gear oil onto all the parts. I've changed my mind about this after my more recent experience. Now, I use marine grease on the wheel bearings and only squirt 5ml of regular 10-30 motor oil in the hub once a year. I've taken hubs apart to regrease the wheel bearings after a few years of use and all the parts inside were still wet with oil. That little bit of oil spreads around well and lasts for a long time.
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 11:31 AM
  #17230  
Senior Member
 
johnnyspaghetti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556

Bikes: Raleigh Sports

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 202 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Buellster
This thread is making think about a three speed! A lot of them go for pretty in my area.
What is your area? maybe it would be helpful to account.
johnnyspaghetti is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 02:21 PM
  #17231  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
I guess these bikes were not intended for long distance traveling. But I wonder if anyone rode a vintage 3 speed long distance touring...like across country or across continents?
Right, these were utility bikes. Got you around town, to work, shopping, things like that until most people moved to cars later in the post war economy. Even back in the 50s, bikes intended for longer distances took advantage of configurations learned from racing. Here's an interesting video of bicycling clubs in England from the mid 50s.
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 03:47 PM
  #17232  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,213
Mentioned: 483 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3831 Post(s)
Liked 6,846 Times in 2,650 Posts
I've long had a goal of taking an IGH bike on a century/100-mile ride, but haven't quite pulled the trigger, even with converting relatively lightweight road frames with 700c wheels and 3- or 4-speed hubs. It's mostly on account that when riding that long, which I don't get the chance to do terribly often, I'd rather be on something I know is well-suited in terms of gears, comfort, tires, fit. And given that I'm not terribly fast on a "regular" road bike, it would be a very long day to ride a century on a 3-speed, even if I could find a mostly flat course (which is fairly difficult but not impossible here in eastern MA).
nlerner is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 05:18 PM
  #17233  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
I'd stick with the retainer and replacing the missing ball.
I concur.
gster is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 05:27 PM
  #17234  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
Men's 1960s 21" Raleigh Sports on Boston's north shore for $30. While the handlebars might be beyond saving, the rims look remarkably rust free. Saddle might also be salvageable:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...635829498.html

That looks like a real good deal. Appears to be complete and unmolested, sheet metal all in decent shape, maybe salveable rims and Brooks saddle. I'm lucky that it's about 1800 miles beyond my reach or I'd own it. Heck, it's worth way more than $30 for the sheet metal and hub, in my opinion.

Those bars are worth an oxalic soak. Can't replace missing metal, but it might end up looking decent with some copper colored freckles. Otherwise, those bars in decent shape aren't scarce.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 05:47 PM
  #17235  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
I've long had a goal of taking an IGH bike on a century/100-mile ride, but haven't quite pulled the trigger, even with converting relatively lightweight road frames with 700c wheels and 3- or 4-speed hubs. It's mostly on account that when riding that long, which I don't get the chance to do terribly often, I'd rather be on something I know is well-suited in terms of gears, comfort, tires, fit. And given that I'm not terribly fast on a "regular" road bike, it would be a very long day to ride a century on a 3-speed, even if I could find a mostly flat course (which is fairly difficult but not impossible here in eastern MA).
If I had to try it, and I never have, I'd opt for the 4-speed or 5-speed with the lower ratio high gear (as compared to the AW 3rd gear) and then one of the smaller later model chain rings (46t, I think) and a 21t or 24t rear. Sacrifice top speed for the ability to do a bit better on the hills. 46/21 with the 4th gear would probably give me more than enough speed on the flats with no head wind and that's probably fast enough for me.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 06:49 PM
  #17236  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
I guess I'm done with the Rudge front mudguard. Gotta know when to stop. I had to trim the back. Less than an inch I think. The thin area is reinforced from underneath with JB Weld, bottom painted and the brown rusted areas are covered with black enamel.
I polished the whole thing to blend in the repair.


BigChief is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 07:32 PM
  #17237  
Full Member
 
Honusms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 227

Bikes: More than my husband knows about

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
Liked 46 Times in 20 Posts
Nice job with that mudguard!
Honusms is offline  
Old 07-06-18, 08:07 PM
  #17238  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,213
Mentioned: 483 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3831 Post(s)
Liked 6,846 Times in 2,650 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I guess I'm done with the Rudge front mudguard. Gotta know when to stop. I had to trim the back. Less than an inch I think. The thin area is reinforced from underneath with JB Weld, bottom painted and the brown rusted areas are covered with black enamel.
I polished the whole thing to blend in the repair.


Nice recovery!
nlerner is offline  
Old 07-07-18, 02:36 AM
  #17239  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 852

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 333 Times in 185 Posts
On the underside I hand paint loads of epoxy two pack lacquer over the enamel. Let guard dry inverted so the inevitable excessive lacquer pools on the underside . It will soon be covered in road grit so no bother. The idea is to keep salt, stone chips etc from exposing the weakened/rusted repairs to the elements again.
Very well saved guard.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 07-07-18, 11:47 AM
  #17240  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 852

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 333 Times in 185 Posts
AW hub standing for 75 years.

Originally Posted by BigChief
Time was where I would wipe a light coating of gear oil onto all the parts. I've changed my mind about this after my more recent experience. Now, I use marine grease on the wheel bearings and only squirt 5ml of regular 10-30 motor oil in the hub once a year. I've taken hubs apart to regrease the wheel bearings after a few years of use and all the parts inside were still wet with oil. That little bit of oil spreads around well and lasts for a long time.
Having never rebuilt an AW hub I asked my LBS owner's retired Dad this exact question regards my 1934 Sports resurrection.
It had stood for 75 years and the rim had literally dissolved where it had sat on the garage floor.
He advised WD 40 in the filler cap, free it up, spin it up by hand over the next few days. Shake the WD 40 out as much as poss and then pore a tablespoons worth of gear oil whatever into the filler cap and off you go.
With serious doubts I followed his advice.
I've loaded it with 4 panniers and done 500 miles and I swear the gear changing is getting smoother by the day.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 07-07-18, 04:44 PM
  #17241  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Originally Posted by Johno59
Having never rebuilt an AW hub I asked my LBS owner's retired Dad this exact question regards my 1934 Sports resurrection.
It had stood for 75 years and the rim had literally dissolved where it had sat on the garage floor.
He advised WD 40 in the filler cap, free it up, spin it up by hand over the next few days. Shake the WD 40 out as much as poss and then pore a tablespoons worth of gear oil whatever into the filler cap and off you go.
With serious doubts I followed his advice.
I've loaded it with 4 panniers and done 500 miles and I swear the gear changing is getting smoother by the day.
These hubs are 90% bullet proof.
A quick clean out will revive these things.
gster is offline  
Old 07-07-18, 07:10 PM
  #17242  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
I'm so used to AW hubs that I enjoy a tear down and clean up, but the alternative for getting AWs that have been sitting for years going is to flood it with a light oil like AT or brake fluid and let it make a mess for a few days then start the regular oil routine. Personally, I think it's more work cleaning the oil off the rim than taking the hub apart, but it is an option. I wouldn't pour in heavy gear oil. I think it may interfere with the pawls. Those pawl springs are very light and I think the gear oil may be too sticky. I don't know this, it's just a thought.
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-07-18, 07:34 PM
  #17243  
Old Boy
 
DQRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,127

Bikes: Mostly 1st-generation, top-of-the-line, non-unicrown MTBs/ATBs: All 1984 models: Dawes Ranger, Peugeot Canyon Express, Ross Mt. Whitney (chrome), Schwinn High Sierra, and a 1983 Trek 850.

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 985 Post(s)
Liked 1,716 Times in 611 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
I've long had a goal of taking an IGH bike on a century/100-mile ride, but haven't quite pulled the trigger, even with converting relatively lightweight road frames with 700c wheels and 3- or 4-speed hubs. It's mostly on account that when riding that long, which I don't get the chance to do terribly often, I'd rather be on something I know is well-suited in terms of gears, comfort, tires, fit. And given that I'm not terribly fast on a "regular" road bike, it would be a very long day to ride a century on a 3-speed, even if I could find a mostly flat course (which is fairly difficult but not impossible here in eastern MA).
You may find some inspiration here: https://www.charliechadwick.org/

This fellow rode English bikes on English roads in the 1920s and beyond. Distances of 170 miles in a day on a 28-inch roadster? What you are proposing would be a doddle compared to that.

(Apologies if this has been discussed before here. I was too lazy to look... at the end of a very long day.)

.
__________________

Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.


USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
DQRider is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 06:01 AM
  #17244  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Getting Organazized!
I bought a nice vintage tackle box yesterday and decided to re organize
my small parts.

It's a nice old Summers tackle box from Smith Falls, Ontario.

On another note,
I've pulled this 1964 Glider out for a bit of attention.
I like the ride I'm just not keen on the colour.
The mini fenders were suitable with the inverted bars but will
probably be taken off.
The saddle is a "Belt" from Japan.
It also has a larger cog on the hub, I think it's a 20T but will check.

gster is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 06:19 AM
  #17245  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I'm so used to AW hubs that I enjoy a tear down and clean up, but the alternative for getting AWs that have been sitting for years going is to flood it with a light oil like AT or brake fluid and let it make a mess for a few days then start the regular oil routine. Personally, I think it's more work cleaning the oil off the rim than taking the hub apart, but it is an option. I wouldn't pour in heavy gear oil. I think it may interfere with the pawls. Those pawl springs are very light and I think the gear oil may be too sticky. I don't know this, it's just a thought.
I've revived many hubs with a simple flush
A quart of varsol poured through the hub followed by
a big pot of boiling water.
Time to dry and then add some 3 in 1.
If the hub is still troublesome I'll open
in up and and see what the problem might be.
Problems found so far:
-Seized/rusted pawl (my fault as I tried to make a spring out of a staple years ago before I really understood how they worked)
-bent axle (Same hub, cause unknown)
-mashed up sun gear (Over tightened nuts)
-broken indicator key. (again, my fault. Came loose during re assembly)
Considering that I've currently got 15 3 speeds (all running like clocks)
and another 20 or so that have been passed on I continue
to be impressed with the quality and reliability of these
vintage machines.
gster is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 06:23 AM
  #17246  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Eaton's Glider
A clean example here in Toronto @ $225.00
gster is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 09:52 AM
  #17247  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660

Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 17 Posts
I'm short of recent three speed news because I need to wait until the next local bike jumble sale (early September) to find parts to continue the projects. And so, because they don't yet have rear racks, I'm not using the Rudge sports or the step-thru Raleigh for rides to beach; which they're perfect for the 20 mile round trip. Meanwhile as frequently happens I'm the Grim Reaper with photo of another local derelict. Past the point of no return, I'd say.
Has the auto adjusting brake levers. Early 70s? I couldn't read the stamping on the AW hub. You'd think someone going to the trouble to do a changeover to cotterless would be more interested in the bike. As it's U-locked at the Brooklyn Long Island Railroad terminus in a spot that's always busy and patrolled I don't think I'll be trying to pull bits and pieces, despite there's things I could make use of. Sigh. What a shame.
paulb_in_bkln is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 10:01 AM
  #17248  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660

Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 17 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Right, these were utility bikes. Got you around town, to work, shopping, things like that until most people moved to cars later in the post war economy. Even back in the 50s, bikes intended for longer distances took advantage of configurations learned from racing. Here's an interesting video of bicycling clubs in England from the mid 50s.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPkT0paGEnQ
I love the Cyclists Special film! Love it! Can't get over the traveller's wagon at 10:36.
paulb_in_bkln is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 10:05 AM
  #17249  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 920

Bikes: Diamond Back Apex, Mongoose IBOC Aluminum Road Bike, SR road bike

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 515 Post(s)
Liked 167 Times in 116 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
Getting Organazized!
I bought a nice vintage tackle box yesterday and decided to re organize
my small parts.
<-------->
It's a nice old Summers tackle box from Smith Falls, Ontario.
<--------?
I've pulled this 1964 Glider out for a bit of attention.
<-------->
The mini fenders were suitable with the inverted bars but will
probably be taken off.
I like the idea of using a tackle box as a parts organizer. The Glider is looking GOOD!
About the shorty fenders, while they may look cool, I doubt they really do their job on wet and muddy roads.
Ballenxj is offline  
Old 07-08-18, 10:07 AM
  #17250  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660

Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 17 Posts
Originally Posted by Dannihilator
The dunelt is coming along nicely.
Dunelt was my pride age 11 or 12. LBS, Eddie's on Jerome Avenue in the Bronx, sold many of them way back. Eddie showed me how to move the fulcrum stop to adjust the shift cable. He also straightened many a bent cottered crank. And stamped all bills of sale, in red ink and big capital letters, DO NOT JUMP CURBS!
paulb_in_bkln is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.