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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-19-18, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict
Is that a regular bar flipped up side down? Or a mustache bar?

Btw, is the drum brake really as heavy as some people say?


No these are path racer bars. You can see from this angle how dropped they are
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Old 07-19-18, 02:46 PM
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And yes the drums are heavy, but if you are 140 lbs this is a concern. I imagine both front and back weigh less than 10 lbs so go figure as to the consequence.
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Old 07-19-18, 03:12 PM
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Are you certain you are in 1st and slipping to second, perhaps you are in 2nd slipping to third.
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Old 07-19-18, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
Mine's an 1957 BSA Silver DeLuxe, with one of those SW hubs. I'm a bit stalled on whether to change out the hub- its slips a bit, but I really like the gear range.
If you do end up lacing in a regular AW hub, you could always fit a FW or S5 into the shell if one came along. For me at least, the big roadsters need a granny gear, so I'm using a 22T cog with the 46T chainwheel. It's OK, but it would be nice to have an overdrive at times. You do loose that when you gear an AW down enough for geezer legs to climb hills.
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Old 07-19-18, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
Fill the hub with WD40 and take it for a mile ride, then see if it holds the gear after that. You may have some dried grease in the wrong place in the hub. Its not the toggle chain!
Thing is when I bought the bike in the spring I took the hub apart and although there was a lot of sludge and dried grease, I got it all cleaned off, or thought I did. But your WD40 idea can't do any harm.
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Old 07-19-18, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
Thing is when I bought the bike in the spring I took the hub apart and although there was a lot of sludge and dried grease, I got it all cleaned off, or thought I did. But your WD40 idea can't do any harm.
Here's one more thing to try, prompted by a post above.

Before doing anything else, give the wheel a spin, and while its spinning, put the shifter in low, and as the wheel continues to spin, see if you can pull out the toggle chain any further. If you didn't do this initially when setting up the shifter, the hub may have fooled you into thinking it was in low when it was really in 2nd.
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Old 07-20-18, 08:16 AM
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Newb "FTLOE3S" question: Has this thread been deemed the de facto place to pose Raleigh 3-speed questions? Would I have better luck posting here or starting a new specific thread in the main C&V sub-forum in regards to bit and pieces?
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Old 07-20-18, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Well...not really. This is how it came to me. I salvaged the front mudguard...
I suppose there's hope for mine then, Big Chief. I say "Job Well Done!"
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Old 07-20-18, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Now that you used (what I consider to be) the correct plural form of forum, you just made this an even more civilized place.
Thanks, noglider, for the compliment. I've enjoyed your entertaining and illuminating posts during my lurking phase.
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Old 07-20-18, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Lawrence_S
Thanks, noglider, for the compliment. I've enjoyed your entertaining and illuminating posts during my lurking phase.


Be sure to check out my bicycle misnomenclature thread. I'm proud of my coinage in the thread title.
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Old 07-20-18, 09:41 AM
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Just the best thread: )
But cannot have too many pics, hey?

3 x 3 speeds (Raleigh RSWs) on the Worcestershire Beacon.
Hard work on the ascent, mad coming down; )

And we never saw one MTB.
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Old 07-20-18, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider


Be sure to check out my ...
And here I thought you might be referring to a cycling beauty queen from times past!
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Old 07-20-18, 10:49 AM
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We are going to the highest point behind...
On 3 bikes that some people laugh at here in UK: )

A great scenic route & a great day out.
We might be old 'hippies' but we enjoy & use 3 speeds; )
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Old 07-20-18, 11:52 AM
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Hooks not buttons



Might help if I foto the correct side of the Dynohub


Twist and go


I have never seen these before. Apparently after 1935 the walls of the Dynohubs had oversized elongated double spoke holes to avoid this dilemma. For this one (1934) you had a twisted curl on the hub end, instead of a button, to enable the lacing up of the wheel hub. The taller wall hub housing containing the Dynohubs meant the conventional method of inserting the buttoned spokes thru the out-of-alighned hub eyelets impossible .

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Old 07-20-18, 01:09 PM
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This isn't the official all finished photo. I still have the lights to fix. Sometimes you put a lot of work into a bike only to find that you don't like to ride it much. Not so here. This one is a nice, nice ride. A keeper. Very smooth and solid feeling.
I couldn't help myself...I scanned eBay until I found a pair of 50s English roadster grips. I know I've been jabbering on about that lately. I also know that it's not entirely rational to spend 47 dollars on a pair of old handlebar grips for a 150 dollar bike, but if I was a rational person I wouldn't have a barn of full of old 3 speeds. Go figure. Still, no more projects until I unload some bikes. There's 3 I want to keep. I routed the brake cables English style. Neater and it leaves a nice spot for the headlight. I'm used to left/front from my rod brakes anyway. My thanks to RJ the bike guy on you tube. His video of the Dyno hub was super helpful.



I left the old Dunlop Sport tires on. And they do say inflate hard!

The ESGE doesn't quite cover up the damage to the left chain stay.

Not much wear on the rubber pedals. Don't think this bike ever saw much mileage.
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Old 07-20-18, 01:20 PM
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that
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Old 07-20-18, 01:29 PM
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Why would the teacher give me a d-
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Old 07-21-18, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
This isn't the official all finished photo. I still have the lights to fix. Sometimes you put a lot of work into a bike only to find that you don't like to ride it much. Not so here. This one is a nice, nice ride. A keeper. Very smooth and solid feeling.
I couldn't help myself...I scanned eBay until I found a pair of 50s English roadster grips. I know I've been jabbering on about that lately. I also know that it's not entirely rational to spend 47 dollars on a pair of old handlebar grips for a 150 dollar bike, but if I was a rational person I wouldn't have a barn of full of old 3 speeds. Go figure. Still, no more projects until I unload some bikes. There's 3 I want to keep. I routed the brake cables English style. Neater and it leaves a nice spot for the headlight. I'm used to left/front from my rod brakes anyway. My thanks to RJ the bike guy on you tube. His video of the Dyno hub was super helpful.



I left the old Dunlop Sport tires on. And they do say inflate hard!

The ESGE doesn't quite cover up the damage to the left chain stay.

Not much wear on the rubber pedals. Don't think this bike ever saw much mileage.
Very smartly done.
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Old 07-21-18, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
The recent conversations about long-distance riding on a 3-speed inspired me to kit together a build and take on this challenge. The frameset is a mid-1970s Wes Mason (the second M in the MKM/Ron Kitching enterprise), full DB Reynolds 531, so reasonably light weight. To continue the keep the weight down (and compensate for the relatively heavy IGH), I went with a set of CLB brakes, a 122bcd later-model Nervar crankset with 45t ring, American Classic seat post, Brooks Swift with Ti rails, Nitto technomic stem, GB bars, and Brooks leather wrap, Shimano aero levers, Shimano A520 pedals. Wheelset is a rear 40-hole Titan Matrix and front is a Mavic with similar box section and color. Tires are Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30mm (and a bit of a tight fit between the chain stays). Rear hub is an FM with alloy shell dated Sept 1954 (okay, I cheated and went with a 4-speed!). Total weight on my hanging scale as shown is about 22.5 lbs.

The frame is a smidge on the small side for me, but that keeps the weight down for this purpose and fit feels pretty good as shown. I'll take it for a 20-30-mile test ride in the next day or so and decide if it'll suffice for a century ride next week.
Well, I took the Wes Mason out for its test run this morning, and I'm afraid to say that it didn't go very well. About two miles into my ride, I was in my lowest gear, climbing a mild hill, when I heard a metallic "ping" coming off the back end. The gears seemed to be working, so I wasn't sure what was going on, but when I stopped, I spotted my left-side gear indicator ejected a few feet across the road. Hmm. I tried screwing it back in (for those unfamiliar with these two-piece indicators, the left side is a threaded rod, which screws into the right side rod w/ the indicator chain), but no go. And once I released the trigger, I had only neutral for my gear, so I walked/coasted the bike home. I haven't put the bike up in the stand yet to do more diagnosis, but at least I didn't eject any pawls from the hub shell!
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Old 07-21-18, 10:12 AM
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This is strange. There was no continuity from the center bulb contact to the switch pole. So I took it apart. There's not even any from the bare wires to the brass tab. I can't imaging how that could happen. That wire has been sitting still, yet it's broken under the insulation somehow. I suppose I'll have to bend those tabs back and see what horror awaits me on the other side of that Masonite. Nice soldering job huh? Those guys were really on the ball. Well, here's one thing wrong. I'll see if I can repair it and hope it's the only issue.

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Old 07-21-18, 12:54 PM
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Three Speeds Plus

Spotted these sweet CCM multi-speeds at the Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show a few weeks ago. The idea of using a Sturmey-Archer three speed with a derailleur intrigues me. Perhaps its time to start some research. If the owner of these bikes in on BF, kudos for a great collection.

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Old 07-21-18, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
.... I was a rational person I wouldn't have a barn of full of old 3 speeds. Go figure. ...



I
First of that is a beautful build, a nice english 3 speed is on my someday list, right after I move to someplace flatter your if I were a rational person quote makes me think my corollary " If I were a rational person there wouldn't be a bike work stand in my dining room .."
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Old 07-21-18, 01:26 PM
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@Buellster if$$ isn't an object you might even consider converting the Harding to a 700c wheels and the sourcing a (gasp!) new IGH wheelset with more gears, but since vintage 3 speeds are abundant and can be had relatively inexpensively in most places you might start with a purpose built 3 speed to restore and see how you like it before tackling a conversion project. YMMV
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Old 07-21-18, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
Spotted these sweet CCM multi-speeds at the Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show a few weeks ago. The idea of using a Sturmey-Archer three speed with a derailleur intrigues me. Perhaps its time to start some research. If the owner of these bikes in on BF, kudos for a great collection.
Somewhere in the bicycle fora (as opposed to fawna, I suppose) someone posted a picture of a remarkable JC Higgins bike that had a 3 speed hub with either a 3 or 4 speed cluster with a derailleur AND a two sprocket chainset with a suicide shifter. I tried to calculate the possible gear combinations, but my slide rule broke. I thought it was earlier in this very thread, but searching does not reveal it so maybe it was somewhere else in BF. In any event, it was one of the coolest old bikes to ever be an old bike.
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Old 07-21-18, 02:19 PM
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Since you wrote "fora", I am obliged to state that "fawna" is incorrect. This comes from having multiple aunts who were teachers. The word is "fauna" (there will be no slap across the palm with a ruler).
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