Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-26-18, 07:41 AM
  #17451  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Lawrence_S
Good to know you like the Kool Stops and I'm thrilled that FINALLY someone is taking a scientific approach to brake pads! I'll make do with the Fibrax units for the time being. The old pads are so worn I'm afraid they'll disintegrate at any moment and it will be metal on metal. Mind sharing your source for the correct pad holders?
I still had the original pad holders. The old pads from the 70s were dried out and the bike would barely stop. This was my first bike with rod brakes so the straight Fibrax holders and pads caught me by surprise. I thought they would be curved like the originals. Still, I installed them figuring they would wear in at some point. They were awful. Maybe someday when the radius wore in they would work better, but I decided to send for the salmon Kool Stop inserts. I also set off on a mission to get the best braking possible out of these brakes. I got some very helpful tips from DL-1 riders here on this thread. So now, my DL-1 has respectable, as far as rod brakes go, braking, but they are difficult to set up compared to calipers.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 07:54 AM
  #17452  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Cute Boy Horse
I believe it's definitely a British made bike. The UK superbe in the 1980s got a luggage rack and mudguard mounted tail light, although I've never seen one with a white safety patch. The late 70s was when they introduced the loop frame version too.

What has me curious is that it's black. Superbes are green, not black... Except I've come across one in perfect condition that was black. That was cable braked, rack and mudguard mounted light too. Usually the other coloured versions were called "Royal Roadster" at that time, not that you'll ever find it in a catalogue...

Does the front mudguard have any sign there was a flap attached? Two rivets near the bottom? Is there a fork lock? The superbe decal on the gearcase isn't right for the time. Could be a lower model tarted up a bit?
I was totally unaware of the loop frame light roadster until now. Nice looking bike. It's a shame they're so rare. The rear carrier is the same design as the Danish use and the chevron transfer on the seat tube is similar also. The Superbe was eliminated from the US catalog after 1975 and even the Sports lost the leather saddle. Raleigh was cost cutting like crazy by the later 70s and like you mentioned, even the white blaze on the rear mudguard was eliminated. This is a very unusual bike.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 08:48 AM
  #17453  
You gonna eat that?
 
Doohickie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Posts: 14,723

Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked 67 Times in 44 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
Not English and not cheap, but a nice example of the Speedster breed in a tall size, despite what he measured. That's pretty unusual, but I know of a rougher one at the local co-op for about a tenth of the price.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...652627865.html

Schwinn Speedster ~1972 3-speed men - $299 (Glen Allen)





bicycle type: other
condition: excellent
frame size: 17.5"
make / manufacturer: Schwinn
model name / number: Speedster
serial number: DK612159
wheel size: 26 in
This 1970s Schwinn is in excellent condition and is all original. It has been completely cleaned and lubed. All bearings are in very good condition and the wheels are true. It rides and shifts smoothly. I have more photos and videos if you would like to see them.
call or text 5%4$0-9(0)8-0)7&0)4
Looks like what I did with an old Varsity I came across. I guess you could say I Speedsterized it.



and just to stay on topic, my 1966 DL-1
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.


Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
Doohickie is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 08:54 AM
  #17454  
Senior Member
 
ollo_ollo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Soviet of Oregon or the NW Florida Redoubt
Posts: 5,323

Bikes: Still have a few left!

Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 456 Post(s)
Liked 481 Times in 246 Posts
When the new alternator hubs first came out, they were very expensive, while Dynohubs could still be found cheaply. So I got 2 Dynohubs for $30, built 1 into a new wheel & used it to power a modern Halogen bulbed, Lumotec headlight and SA tail light. It worked well on my commute but I also had 10 and 15 watt battery powered headlights on my bar plus cheap Nashbar red blinkies on the rear to supplement multiple reflective devices.

The DH was more for insurance against no headlight if battery or bulb failed. My hub was still working fine when I sold the bike in 2007 and I had traded the 2nd hub to a co-worker for the French bar and stem now on my Grand Jubile.

Further Dynohub info courtesy of Jobst Brandt after he added a voltage stabilizer to his Halogen light:

Speed (mph) Volts Watts Lumens
8 4.0 0.8 7.4
10 4.8 1.1 15.3
12 5.2 1.3 21.1
14 5.5 1.5 26.4
16 5.8 1.7 32.6
18 6.0 1.8 37.3

Last edited by ollo_ollo; 07-26-18 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Tried to fix chart spacing lost in BF posting. Oh Well!
ollo_ollo is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 09:07 AM
  #17455  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
OK, so from the nicelite website, they claim it's essential to run the wires in parallel straight from the hub terminals. That would mean no switch. Which they claim is fine because the bulbs last for so many thousands of hours. Nobody here has mentioned totally rewiring their system this way when using LED bulbs. I have a feeling this isn't actually necessary, but like most things Dynohub related, I don't know.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 09:22 AM
  #17456  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 9,128

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,445 Times in 1,557 Posts
Originally Posted by Doohickie
Looks like what I did with an old Varsity I came across. I guess you could say I Speedsterized it.
If you did that to a derailleur bike you Suburbanized it. Speedsterizing is generally a Sturmey thang, although it does sound much cooler.
thumpism is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 09:57 AM
  #17457  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Doohickie
Looks like what I did with an old Varsity I came across. I guess you could say I Speedsterized it.



and just to stay on topic, my 1966 DL-1
Classic! I love these bikes.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 10:25 AM
  #17458  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 852

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 331 Times in 185 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
OK, so from the nicelite website, they claim it's essential to run the wires in parallel straight from the hub terminals. That would mean no switch. Which they claim is fine because the bulbs last for so many thousands of hours. Nobody here has mentioned totally rewiring their system this way when using LED bulbs. I have a feeling this isn't actually necessary, but like most things Dynohub related, I don't know.
It is a 3 way switch , all on, all off and front only. I just leave in on , the LED lasts forever. I have 4 other lights on my helmet - the Dynohub is for purely sentimental reasons.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 12:16 PM
  #17459  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 634
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times in 11 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I was totally unaware of the loop frame light roadster until now. Nice looking bike. It's a shame they're so rare. The rear carrier is the same design as the Danish use and the chevron transfer on the seat tube is similar also. The Superbe was eliminated from the US catalog after 1975 and even the Sports lost the leather saddle. Raleigh was cost cutting like crazy by the later 70s and like you mentioned, even the white blaze on the rear mudguard was eliminated. This is a very unusual bike.
The only UK superbe I've ever seen with the white bit on the mudguard was a very early one (before 1950), also had a white mudflap on the back. That one is also a mystery. In the UK market lost proper leather saddles some point in the 70s, for vinyl mattress saddles, still branded brooks. Although it was always a "while stocks last" feature anyway.

Erring on the side of this black bike being made in the UK for the European market. Why they had to customize them for each country I can't figure out, considering human beings are roughly the same shape everywhere you go.

Originally Posted by BigChief
OK, so from the nicelite website, they claim it's essential to run the wires in parallel straight from the hub terminals. That would mean no switch. Which they claim is fine because the bulbs last for so many thousands of hours. Nobody here has mentioned totally rewiring their system this way when using LED bulbs. I have a feeling this isn't actually necessary, but like most things Dynohub related, I don't know.
Sounds like a misunderstanding - where does it say that? They have circuits up REGULATORS FOR DYNAMO GENERATORS

What they really don't want you doing is, if you're rectifying it to DC, that you try and use the frame as a ground wire, cos then you've got AC and DC banging back into each other. But if you're not doing that then they don't need wiring up any differently to an ordinary bulb. We've got the advantage with dynohubs because they don't use the frame for the circuit.

The principle of operation is that the D in LED will block the current when it's gone the other direction. Doesn't damage anything, but does throw half the power away, and so flashes. An incandescent light bulb stays hot and so still glows for the short time that AC power takes to drop and switch direction, but a LED has a very strict operating voltage and a very fast reaction time. So Flash Flash Flash Flash.

That's why the ones rated for bike bulbs have to be special, they've got a fancy miniaturized regulator in there so it can go down to 2.5V. Still flashes, but not so much. So then its a matter of making sure the power never drops below 2.5V, and for that sturmey archer accidentally solved it for us in ninteen forty whenever with those battery tubes. Little rectifier circuit in there converts the Dynohub's AC power to DC, so that it can't damage the batteries. Then the batteries are hooked to that in parallel. The magic of electrics is that if you offer a load (a light bulb, motor, etc) two sources of power, it always picks the higher voltage one. So the bulb uses the battery until the dynamo voltage is more, and then switches over automatically. (there is also a separate diode there to make sure the 6V of Dynamo power doesn't defeat the battery's 4.5V and result in 1.5V going backwards and blowing them up, but details, details...)

The practical result is you now have bike lights powered by 3 D Cells, but they last for a couple of years because 90% of the time the dynamo is doing it. You can also do one with rechargables, Raleigh used to advertise that as "Car-Type Lighting". The LED beam is very bright but doesn't extend out more than about 3 meters when aiming at the ground, just a limitation of the old headlight reflectors.

It's a little bit of a project, if you don't want your headlight flashing. The other solution is to leave the wiring alone and just ride faster.
Cute Boy Horse is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 01:42 PM
  #17460  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
This a quote from this page. "Nicelite bulbs should always be wired in parallel - where each bulb is connected directly to the bicycle generator. Do not connect in series."
Starting to get a headache from this nicelite site. I think I need to leave it alone for a while.
NICELITE SUPER LED LIGHT BULBS
__________________
Inflate Hard

Last edited by BigChief; 07-26-18 at 02:17 PM.
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 03:10 PM
  #17461  
You gonna eat that?
 
Doohickie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Posts: 14,723

Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked 67 Times in 44 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
If you did that to a derailleur bike you Suburbanized it. Speedsterizing is generally a Sturmey thang, although it does sound much cooler.
Good point.

I Sturmey-ized a Raleigh Marathon... the derailleur hanger got honked up and couldn't accept a derailleur any longer, so I put a wheel with a S-A 2-speed kickback hub on it. It's a bit more of a Racer than the Varsity I suppose. It's the bike in the foreground.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.


Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
Doohickie is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 06:09 PM
  #17462  
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Cute Boy Horse
The only UK superbe I've ever seen with the white bit on the mudguard was a very early one (before 1950), also had a white mudflap on the back. That one is also a mystery. In the UK market lost proper leather saddles some point in the 70s, for vinyl mattress saddles, still branded brooks. Although it was always a "while stocks last" feature anyway.

Erring on the side of this black bike being made in the UK for the European market. Why they had to customize them for each country I can't figure out, considering human beings are roughly the same shape everywhere you go.
From fleabay.uk: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232859614350

Advertised as a "Ladies raleigh superb [sic], 1980's." Other than being a rod brake frame, there are a number of similarities to my Superbe. Virtually identical decal layout, brazed seat stays, full chain case with stylized Superbe decal. Rolled welded mudguard stays. Looks like this one may have the modern version of a rear dynohub? And black paint but no white flash on the rear mudguard (on closer inspection perhaps a dark green?)

I wonder if mine was just the top-tier loop frame from this period? Perhaps someone got enthusiastic with the white rattle can on that mudguard? Oh, and no evidence of ever having mudflaps on my bike and the generator wire to the rear tailight is routed through the lower down tube.

Here's the photo from the auction listing:


Last edited by Lawrence_S; 07-26-18 at 06:14 PM. Reason: Additions.
Lawrence_S is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 06:15 PM
  #17463  
Old Boy
 
DQRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,390

Bikes: Mostly 1st-generation, top-of-the-line, non-unicrown MTBs/ATBs: All 1984 models: Dawes Ranger, Peugeot Canyon Express, Ross Mt. Whitney (chrome), Schwinn High Sierra, and a 1983 Trek 850.

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 1,715 Times in 611 Posts
From Yesterday's Ride

It was a beautiful day down by the Saint Paul waterfront.



I rode my Super Course Sturmey-Archer conversion about 40 miles through the parks along the river. This bike draws a lot of attention whenever I stop to photograph it. Kind of like dating a super-model.

.
__________________

Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.


USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
DQRider is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 06:45 PM
  #17464  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Lawrence_S
From fleabay.uk: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232859614350

Advertised as a "Ladies raleigh superb [sic], 1980's." Other than being a rod brake frame, there are a number of similarities to my Superbe. Virtually identical decal layout, brazed seat stays, full chain case with stylized Superbe decal. Rolled welded mudguard stays. Looks like this one may have the modern version of a rear dynohub? And black paint but no white flash on the rear mudguard (on closer inspection perhaps a dark green?)

I wonder if mine was just the top-tier loop frame from this period? Perhaps someone got enthusiastic with the white rattle can on that mudguard? Oh, and no evidence of ever having mudflaps on my bike and the generator wire to the rear tailight is routed through the lower down tube.

Here's the photo from the auction listing:

On this one, the downtube and seat tube transfers match the Danish versions exactly. I think there is some kind of connection.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 07:02 PM
  #17465  
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by BigChief
On this one, the downtube and seat tube transfers match the Danish versions exactly. I think there is some kind of connection.
I've seen many pics of Danish and Dutch bikes with the rear wheel slide lock, which mine has. My downtube/seat tube decals (or I should say what's left of them) are identical to the fleabay bike. Too many coincidences to be ignored? I am finding more of these loop frames by perusing fleabay.uk. Most are identified as 1980's vintage.
Lawrence_S is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 07:40 PM
  #17466  
Senior Member
 
billnuke1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: St Cloud Fl.
Posts: 1,973

Bikes: Only my riders left...

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 782 Times in 389 Posts
Visiting old friends...










Lost my storage space last year. Haven’t seen these for awhile. The missing brooks seats are back at my shop being “restored”.
Too many road bike projects started to do these, but I do need to get my rider Superb home. I’ll slot these in as time allows, or I get scorcher fever!
My first tourists, too! New tires and tubes are back at the shop.
These things are not easy to move!
billnuke1 is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 08:36 PM
  #17467  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
What a nice collection of British steel you got there! Personally, I'd get to one of the DL-1s pretty quick. Life is better when you have one of those big bad boy roadsters ready to roll when the mood strikes. Nothing else like em.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 08:36 PM
  #17468  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 634
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times in 11 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
This a quote from this page. "Nicelite bulbs should always be wired in parallel - where each bulb is connected directly to the bicycle generator. Do not connect in series."
Starting to get a headache from this nicelite site. I think I need to leave it alone for a while.
NICELITE SUPER LED LIGHT BULBS
Yeah he just means in parallel, not series, he's saying "directly" as in "not through other bulbs/phone chargers/mystery things". That doesn't count a switch. A switch is just a swing bridge for electricity, it's not a destination.

Originally Posted by Lawrence_S
From fleabay.uk: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232859614350

Advertised as a "Ladies raleigh superb [sic], 1980's." Other than being a rod brake frame, there are a number of similarities to my Superbe. Virtually identical decal layout, brazed seat stays, full chain case with stylized Superbe decal. Rolled welded mudguard stays. Looks like this one may have the modern version of a rear dynohub? And black paint but no white flash on the rear mudguard (on closer inspection perhaps a dark green?)

I wonder if mine was just the top-tier loop frame from this period? Perhaps someone got enthusiastic with the white rattle can on that mudguard? Oh, and no evidence of ever having mudflaps on my bike and the generator wire to the rear tailight is routed through the lower down tube.

Here's the photo from the auction listing:

It's the standard dark green UK superbe colour. Dynohub is the AG unit that the bike originally came with when the model launched just after the war, never modernized. I have the mens version of this, it's a completely ordinary UK superbe, complete with tattered stump left over from the rubber mudflap that cracks and falls off, and the Brooks vinyl mattress saddle that they want you to forget they ever made.

The UK market bikes went through very very few changes over the decades and most of the ones that did were temporary and reverted. With the exception of the lug pattern being a bit fancier (changed early 60s), the useless rectangular headlight (1979), the decals (once a decade), and the looped crossbar, it is exactly the same as they were at the beginning.

Fixed stays don't mean anything. All 26" Raleighs after WWII have them. Conversely all 28" Raleigh stays are bolted because they were only kept on to market for the police, who only recruited very tall people, so it's still with the ancient 100+ year old design.

Totally run of the mill thing this. Only interesting part is it's still got the saddlebag. Those always vanish.

Originally Posted by BigChief
On this one, the downtube and seat tube transfers match the Danish versions exactly. I think there is some kind of connection.
The connection is they're both made in England but one is changed with a tyre dynamo and worse paint for export Probably there is some regulations in Holland, denmark or wherever that says you must have 3W lighting power and a white flash on it's arse. I know germany was like that.

Last edited by Cute Boy Horse; 07-26-18 at 08:43 PM.
Cute Boy Horse is offline  
Old 07-26-18, 08:58 PM
  #17469  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
This loop frame light roadster is super rare on this side of the pond. In all my years of fixing old 3 speeds, I have never seen one. Loop frames here are always either ancient pre war bikes or the ladies DL-1L usually from the 70s.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 04:56 AM
  #17470  
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by DQRider
It was a beautiful day down by the Saint Paul waterfront.



I rode my Super Course Sturmey-Archer conversion about 40 miles through the parks along the river. This bike draws a lot of attention whenever I stop to photograph it. Kind of like dating a super-model.

.
Just can't get over how stunning this super mode....uhm....Sturmeyfied Super Course is! Something to aspire to.
Lawrence_S is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 05:12 AM
  #17471  
Senior Member
 
Stadjer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Groningen
Posts: 1,307

Bikes: Gazelle rod brakes, Batavus compact, Peugeot hybrid

Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5840 Post(s)
Liked 945 Times in 721 Posts
Originally Posted by arty dave
The brake section is a standard size, and the shoes are also interchangeable. So whatever small parts you need to work with your bikes rod or cable, you can take from one and put on the other.
To be honest, now I got the new brake and I'm working on it, I start to doubt the interchangeability. I didn't really tighten the nut yet, just by hand, but there's about a 2 mm gap and it's not turning smoothly. It also seem to wobble slightly when turning. The bike is a Gazelle and Gazelle has a habit of doing things a little bit differently often for the sake of beeing different and beeing able to charge more for parts, even in using SA parts. The company has never been as likeable as the bikes.

I guess I'll have to connect the brakeshoes to the old plate, or do you (or somebody else) have a better idea?
Stadjer is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 05:20 AM
  #17472  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Cute Boy Horse
Yeah he just means in parallel, not series, he's saying "directly" as in "not through other bulbs/phone chargers/mystery things". That doesn't count a switch. A switch is just a swing bridge for electricity, it's not a destination.
.
I always thought that if both bulbs share poles on the switch it would be considered series from the switch onward and that parallel would be two separate wires through the whole system. Perhaps I'm wrong. I have a learning curve to go through here.
__________________
Inflate Hard

Last edited by BigChief; 07-27-18 at 05:32 AM.
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 06:30 AM
  #17473  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
Interesting Raleigh Built Glider
Seller says 1967, located in Hamilton. Asking price $168.00 (CDN)

gster is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 06:46 AM
  #17474  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
Another Interesting Bike On Kijiji
This one popped up today in Hamilton and I'm 99.9% sure it's my old Supercycle CCM 3 Speed that I sold to a guy I worked with 5/6 years ago.

Originally, it had a very nice 3 stage green paint with a silver undercoat.

I rode this one quite hard for a couple of years. A good work/city bike but decided to sell as I wanted to focus on British built bikes.
The transformation from green to red found here:
https://threespeedmania.wordpress.co...an-old-friend/
gster is offline  
Old 07-27-18, 07:22 AM
  #17475  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Short ride this morning. Diddn't last long.Already getting hot and humid out there. Happy to report that I like these scientific Fibrax brake pads. I don't notice a difference between these and the Kool Stops. Nice looking, higher quality plating on the steel parts too. I'd say these are a very credible alternative to Kool Stops if you want a more traditional look. They're stamped "STEEL" on the side. I assume they're meant for steel rims. Glad I tried them.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.