Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 09-04-18, 07:09 PM
  #17901  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times in 1,557 Posts
The local co-op moved and I went to the new location. A step down from the previous place and I hope they survive. There's a dumpster out back with detritus from the move. I may have to go diving.


How it looked at the old place.
thumpism is offline  
Old 09-04-18, 07:38 PM
  #17902  
Senior Member
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,107

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 809 Post(s)
Liked 1,018 Times in 664 Posts
A dl-1 with one crank arm and missing the seat stays. Well, at least the price is right. It could be a project. Any 28" wheels in there? Fenders?

I see that you already have a DL-1 so, that frees you up to get creative. The seat stays can be fabricated. This can even be a point of creativity. Polished Aluminum perhaps?

Did you grab it? Is this a project for you then? If so, keep us up to date on the plans and how things are going.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 09-04-18, 09:27 PM
  #17903  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
The local co-op moved and I went to the new location. A step down from the previous place and I hope they survive. There's a dumpster out back with detritus from the move. I may have to go diving.


How it looked at the old place.
I have a chainguard and a non Raleigh 28" rear fender that would fit. I also have a roll of heavy galvanized wire that chainstays could be made from.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-04-18, 10:52 PM
  #17904  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I have one on my customized Rudge. It is an aluminum rim. The hub is steel with that modern chrome that you see these days. I can vouch for it. It's a good wheel for the price and whoever laced it up did a good job. Here it is on my Rudge. I'm also using Tektro R559 brakes.

I was thinking that the axle diameter was the goofy thing about Raleigh forks that might cause a problem, but reflecting on it, I think it's the OLD that can be a problem. The Raleigh Sports bikes were spaced for 90 mm OLD (or about that) and most hubs are about 100 mm. I put a modern Shimano generator hub on a Sports some years ago and it was not an easy fit to get that sucker in there. Is the Rudge spaced for 90 mm, like the Raleighs and was the hub compatible?
desconhecido is offline  
Old 09-04-18, 11:07 PM
  #17905  
Senior Member
 
jamesj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 922

Bikes: 2015 Specialized AWOL, 2006 Paul Frank Cruiser, 1987 Specialized Street Stomper, 1980 Trek 412, 1979 Raleigh Sport,

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 60 Times in 25 Posts
Hello all,

So I finally forked over the cash for a BIKESMITH press I'm overhauling the bottom bracket on my 1979 Sport. First cotter pin was tight and ended up bending and needing to be punched out a bit, second one came out perfect.

Cleaning the parts tonight, tomorrow I'm going to repack it.

My question is this, when adjusting the bottom bracket how smooth should it be? I know I should adjust for no binding and no play, I'm sure it will not be super smooth like a modern bottom bracket when spinning. The reason I ask is on the Superbe I have, when I repacked that bottom bracket it didn't spin super smooth, it would bind in some places. I made sure to check the bottom bracket on the 1980 Sport and it was also not smooth, im sure that was because the grease was old.

So any help would be appreciated.
jamesj is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 04:51 AM
  #17906  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by desconhecido
I was thinking that the axle diameter was the goofy thing about Raleigh forks that might cause a problem, but reflecting on it, I think it's the OLD that can be a problem. The Raleigh Sports bikes were spaced for 90 mm OLD (or about that) and most hubs are about 100 mm. I put a modern Shimano generator hub on a Sports some years ago and it was not an easy fit to get that sucker in there. Is the Rudge spaced for 90 mm, like the Raleighs and was the hub compatible?
I've found many Raleigh forks to be too tight even on original hubs. Sometimes, it can be a real battle just to remove the front wheel. I cold set the fork whenever I one of these situations comes up so I'm used to fitting Raleigh forks to hubs. This Rudge has some unknown to me non Raleigh fork. It came to me with a Schwinn 597 front wheel. That's why I needed a replacement. It's not hard to adjust these forks. All you need is a threaded rod that fits the fork dropouts, a couple nuts and washers.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 05:15 AM
  #17907  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by jamesj
Hello all,

So I finally forked over the cash for a BIKESMITH press I'm overhauling the bottom bracket on my 1979 Sport. First cotter pin was tight and ended up bending and needing to be punched out a bit, second one came out perfect.

Cleaning the parts tonight, tomorrow I'm going to repack it.

My question is this, when adjusting the bottom bracket how smooth should it be? I know I should adjust for no binding and no play, I'm sure it will not be super smooth like a modern bottom bracket when spinning. The reason I ask is on the Superbe I have, when I repacked that bottom bracket it didn't spin super smooth, it would bind in some places. I made sure to check the bottom bracket on the 1980 Sport and it was also not smooth, im sure that was because the grease was old.

So any help would be appreciated.
These cranks can and should be just as smooth as a modern crank. What I've found is that even though the 1/4" ball bearings might look fine, the crank can feel rough if you reuse them. Try a new set of grade 25 1/4" bearings. On some newer Raleighs, they use a plastic cage with, I think 7 bearings. I never saw the sense in this. There's a lot of stress on these and it seems to me that the original 11 loose bearings would be far better. It's not difficult to load them. The grease holds them on the spindle while I carefully thread the spindle through the fixed cup hole.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 06:11 AM
  #17908  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,571

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 439 Times in 287 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
To me it seems like much more trouble and expense to convert the BB and replace the crank than it would to just service the existing crank. Besides, the heron crank is an important to the aesthetics of these vintage roadsters. A cotter press is $59 from Bikesmith and is an excellent quality tool. The only issue that could come up is if the cotter starts to bend before it breaks loose. This does happen, but for me it has been very rare. I've rebuilt many old Raleigh BBs and I'll say that 19 times out of 20, the press will pop the cotters loose and they'll be reusable. I do always remove the cotter nuts and washers a couple days before I plan on the rebuild and fill the wells around the threads with penetrating oil. In all these years I have only had to resort to plan B twice. Although I have had instances where the cotter broke free but bent slightly and didn't fall all the way out so I had to drive it through with a punch. Then I needed to replace the cotter. Again, Bikesmith is the place to go for Raleigh cotters.
edit...It's nice to have the spanners for the adjustable cup and lock ring, but you can get by fine with a hammer, punch and channel lock pliers. And a chopstick and rag works well for cleaning the still attached fixed cup.

New Crank Cotter Press
I concur!
gster is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 08:09 AM
  #17909  
Senior Member
 
clengman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 499

Bikes: '73 Schwinn World Voyageur, '98 Nishiki BSO

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 89 Times in 61 Posts
I'm planning to make one of these:


Looks pretty straightforward and about 1/10 the price of the tool from Bikesmith.
clengman is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 09:46 AM
  #17910  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Here's a good looking late 50s 21" Sports near Beantown at a reasonable asking price. Even has a usable looking non-orginal leather saddle.
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 12:26 PM
  #17911  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,843

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2295 Post(s)
Liked 2,043 Times in 1,252 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Here's a good looking late 50s 21" Sports near Beantown at a reasonable asking price. Even has a usable looking non-orginal leather saddle.
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
It's amazing that Raleigh cables have lasted 60 years or longer without
breaking apart or rusting out. If only we manufactured products today with that ethos.
clubman is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 01:03 PM
  #17912  
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,597

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 265 Times in 119 Posts


1950 Claud Butler
All British Cycle Event coming up...
Bronze-welded 'All-rounder' frame, Alloy AW hub, Chater Lea cranks, Weber pedals, Reynolds stem, GB Sport alloy brakes, Bayliss Wiley front hub and bottom bracket. Total weight with fenders about 24 pounds.
Salubrious is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 08:46 PM
  #17913  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,143
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 6,634 Times in 2,599 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Here's a good looking late 50s 21" Sports near Beantown at a reasonable asking price. Even has a usable looking non-orginal leather saddle.
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
I think that one might have a 4-speed hub. Note the non-drive side axle nut. The trigger is clearly marked 3-speed, however.
nlerner is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 09:26 PM
  #17914  
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 32

Bikes: '78 Raleigh Competition GS, 63 Raleigh Sports, '34 Raleigh Sports

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Still working on this one - many kinks to work out. It started as a quadrant shifter - the rest of the bike followed.
jon.612 is offline  
Old 09-05-18, 09:48 PM
  #17915  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Originally Posted by jon.612
Still working on this one - many kinks to work out. It started as a quadrant shifter - the rest of the bike followed.
Very nice. Can't really make out the brakes, not common, I'd guess, Looks like something that @rhm posted about a couple years ago, maybe.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 09-06-18, 05:43 AM
  #17916  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner


I think that one might have a 4-speed hub. Note the non-drive side axle nut. The trigger is clearly marked 3-speed, however.
Wouldn't that be nice. Even looks possible to be an alloy shell. But, like you say, that shifter looks pretty original. This is the kind of bike I hate to pass up, but I have to until I unload some past projects. I can tell, even in these pictures that it would polish and clean up to one of those beautiful patinas. Pre TI, all there except for the saddle and grips, transfers look good, no bad rust and even a good later Brooks. It's a good one.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-06-18, 05:45 AM
  #17917  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Salubrious


1950 Claud Butler
All British Cycle Event coming up...
Bronze-welded 'All-rounder' frame, Alloy AW hub, Chater Lea cranks, Weber pedals, Reynolds stem, GB Sport alloy brakes, Bayliss Wiley front hub and bottom bracket. Total weight with fenders about 24 pounds.
Nice! Seeing this gets me thinking about super light roadster projects again.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-06-18, 05:51 AM
  #17918  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by jon.612
Still working on this one - many kinks to work out. It started as a quadrant shifter - the rest of the bike followed.
I like this! But you can't just post this photo without some more details! Not fair. So, what do we have here? Is that an early 30s Raleigh frameset? More pics...more info please
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 09-06-18, 06:03 AM
  #17919  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times in 1,928 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
I think that one might have a 4-speed hub. Note the non-drive side axle nut. The trigger is clearly marked 3-speed, however.
FWIW, I have a couple SW 3-speed hubs that use the two-piece indicator and left-side windowed nut.

A close-up of the hub shell would clarify this.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 09-06-18, 09:42 PM
  #17920  
Senior Member
 
agmetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541

Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 26 Times in 18 Posts

I recently inherited a couple old cameras from my grandfather, one of which is an early 1950s Voigtländer Perkeo II in excellent working condition. I took it out for a test run a few days ago, and felt that my ANT roadster would be a good subject:



*
agmetal is offline  
Old 09-07-18, 04:51 AM
  #17921  
ambulatory senior
 
52telecaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,998

Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 3,657 Times in 1,677 Posts
Originally Posted by agmetal

I recently inherited a couple old cameras from my grandfather, one of which is an early 1950s Voigtländer Perkeo II in excellent working condition. I took it out for a test run a few days ago, and felt that my ANT roadster would be a good subject:



*
thank you very much!
52telecaster is offline  
Old 09-07-18, 06:29 AM
  #17922  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 920

Bikes: Diamond Back Apex, Mongoose IBOC Aluminum Road Bike, SR road bike

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 515 Post(s)
Liked 167 Times in 116 Posts
Originally Posted by agmetal

I recently inherited a couple old cameras from my grandfather, one of which is an early 1950s Voigtländer Perkeo II in excellent working condition. I took it out for a test run a few days ago, and felt that my ANT roadster would be a good subject:

*

*Nice. They go well together, the camera and bike that is. Looks to be 6x6 format?

*
Ballenxj is offline  
Old 09-07-18, 06:35 AM
  #17923  
Old Boy
 
DQRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,127

Bikes: Mostly 1st-generation, top-of-the-line, non-unicrown MTBs/ATBs: All 1984 models: Dawes Ranger, Peugeot Canyon Express, Ross Mt. Whitney (chrome), Schwinn High Sierra, and a 1983 Trek 850.

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 984 Post(s)
Liked 1,715 Times in 611 Posts
Originally Posted by agmetal

I recently inherited a couple old cameras from my grandfather, one of which is an early 1950s Voigtländer Perkeo II in excellent working condition. I took it out for a test run a few days ago, and felt that my ANT roadster would be a good subject:

*
Wow! That is an excellent* photograph.
Two questions:

1) What film did you use?

2) Did you develop and print this yourself?

I have toyed with the idea of getting another film camera, but digital is just so darned easy that it is hard to justify the expense.

Thanks for sharing that!

.


*
__________________

Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.


USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
DQRider is offline  
Old 09-07-18, 09:36 AM
  #17924  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times in 1,557 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I have a chainguard and a non Raleigh 28" rear fender that would fit. I also have a roll of heavy galvanized wire that chainstays could be made from.
I would get it for the parts. My own 22" Tourist is much rattier than this one and those rod brake pieces could come in handy someday if I ever take mine down off the hook and get it into the stand.
thumpism is offline  
Old 09-07-18, 09:40 AM
  #17925  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times in 1,557 Posts
Originally Posted by Velo Mule
A dl-1 with one crank arm and missing the seat stays. Well, at least the price is right. It could be a project. Any 28" wheels in there? Fenders?

I see that you already have a DL-1 so, that frees you up to get creative. The seat stays can be fabricated. This can even be a point of creativity. Polished Aluminum perhaps?

Did you grab it? Is this a project for you then? If so, keep us up to date on the plans and how things are going.
Did not get it (yet) and the place is only open two days a week. If it's still there next visit and not completely buried I will probably fish it out. I'd hate to let something that quaint get away, as demonstrated by paying ten bucks for the battered 22" that I got from them at the old place.
thumpism is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.