Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 10-13-18, 04:01 PM
  #18226  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Yes. Not mine. I keep a collection of pictures for reference. I posted it now because it has it's original short grips. I was hunting vintage grips for my Rudge project and saw that fellow in Greece had some German NOS short grips that look very similar to the very few survivors I see in pictures and the grainy catalog scans of rod braked roadsters from the 30s and 40s. I was shopping for a 51 Rudge Sports, so they weren't what I was looking for. I just figured Peter might be interested since he has a suitable bike.
Appreciate your help on this but where is the fellow in Greece who has these, is it on ebay? I will try looking.
regards Peter
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 04:05 PM
  #18227  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Yes. Not mine. I keep a collection of pictures for reference. I posted it now because it has it's original short grips. I was hunting vintage grips for my Rudge project and saw that fellow in Greece had some German NOS short grips that look very similar to the very few survivors I see in pictures and the grainy catalog scans of rod braked roadsters from the 30s and 40s. I was shopping for a 51 Rudge Sports, so they weren't what I was looking for. I just figured Peter might be interested since he has a suitable bike.
Found these!! They are 80mm long.
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 04:12 PM
  #18228  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Yes. Not mine. I keep a collection of pictures for reference. I posted it now because it has it's original short grips. I was hunting vintage grips for my Rudge project and saw that fellow in Greece had some German NOS short grips that look very similar to the very few survivors I see in pictures and the grainy catalog scans of rod braked roadsters from the 30s and 40s. I was shopping for a 51 Rudge Sports, so they weren't what I was looking for. I just figured Peter might be interested since he has a suitable bike.
Found him, but he wants $39 a set. way too much to pay:-
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 06:03 PM
  #18229  
ambulatory senior
 
52telecaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 6,001

Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1957 Post(s)
Liked 3,669 Times in 1,683 Posts
My winter ride is shaping up with an aluminum shelled aw.

This is really pretty far from what u guys do but it's my current 3 speed plus triple crank. Studded tires and a dynamo hub make it good for lights as well.
52telecaster is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 06:08 PM
  #18230  
Full Member
 
Honusms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 227

Bikes: More than my husband knows about

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
Liked 46 Times in 20 Posts
Love that Puch mixte! Grace plus function!
Honusms is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 07:52 PM
  #18231  
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I picked up a 60's Sports from a coop a few weeks ago. I'd like to make it my daily commuter. It didn't have a seat so I took the vinyl sprung saddle from the 72 Sports. I'm thinking of sticking with the vinyl instead of a Brooks so I don't have to worry about staining. Will Kool stops provide enough stopping power with the original rims, or should I try to build alloy wheels? I've never built wheels before. Can I reuse the original spokes? I just ordered a 24T cog so I can use 3rd as the main gear. It's not really hilly in my area except for one bridge over a harbor, but I want the ride to be easy on my knees...
tigervw78 is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 07:54 PM
  #18232  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Yes it is expensive. I just thought I'd mention them. The others seem like a good deal.
BigChief is offline  
Old 10-13-18, 08:37 PM
  #18233  
ambulatory senior
 
52telecaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 6,001

Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1957 Post(s)
Liked 3,669 Times in 1,683 Posts
Originally Posted by tigervw78
I picked up a 60's Sports from a coop a few weeks ago. I'd like to make it my daily commuter. It didn't have a seat so I took the vinyl sprung saddle from the 72 Sports. I'm thinking of sticking with the vinyl instead of a Brooks so I don't have to worry about staining. Will Kool stops provide enough stopping power with the original rims, or should I try to build alloy wheels? I've never built wheels before. Can I reuse the original spokes? I just ordered a 24T cog so I can use 3rd as the main gear. It's not really hilly in my area except for one bridge over a harbor, but I want the ride to be easy on my knees...
you can reuse spokes if the rims have a similar dimension. You might get away with it using cr18s. Its a cool way to build a new wheel if you have never done it before. If you do need new spokes, dans comp will take care of you about as cheaply as you can get. 24 tooth sounds like a good idea to me.
52telecaster is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 12:29 AM
  #18234  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Originally Posted by tigervw78
I picked up a 60's Sports from a coop a few weeks ago. I'd like to make it my daily commuter. It didn't have a seat so I took the vinyl sprung saddle from the 72 Sports. I'm thinking of sticking with the vinyl instead of a Brooks so I don't have to worry about staining. Will Kool stops provide enough stopping power with the original rims, or should I try to build alloy wheels? I've never built wheels before. Can I reuse the original spokes? I just ordered a 24T cog so I can use 3rd as the main gear. It's not really hilly in my area except for one bridge over a harbor, but I want the ride to be easy on my knees...
t's been a while since I measured Raleigh Pattern rims, but my recollectiion is that you can use the same length spokes when building with CR18s that were used with the Raleigh rims. Assuming the same lacing pattern is required. My recollection is that the original spokes may be a tad longer than what you would calculate (1 or 2 mm) but the CR18s have a nice deep socket for the eyelets and there is little danger of having spokes contact the rim tape. Use good rim tapes or strips like Schwalbe blue tape or velox or something.

Within the last week, a poster above described replacing Raleigh rims with CR18 rims and the fact that the spoke pattern does not ideally match up exactly because the Raleigh rims and CR18s have the right and left spoke holes in a different relationship to the valve hole.


My personal preference is to measure the CR18 rims and your hubs, calculate the spoke lengths and use new spokes and nipples, Lots of good instruction material on how to lace and true wheels. New stainless spokes are easier for me to deal with and they look good and last a long time.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 05:10 AM
  #18235  
astro
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pennington, NJ
Posts: 357

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, '72, Bianchi Volpe, '97 (no more, it died), Greenspeed GTVS6, '05, Trek 520, '13

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 51 Times in 25 Posts
Originally Posted by markk900
I bought a set of CR18's to replace the similar rims on the 49 humber (rims are in decent shape except a very poor/chrome pitted braking surface)....I didn't do it yet because I found the CR18s were significantly narrower. Have you found that to make a difference on yours?
Narrower rims seem to work fine - there was even enough travel in the brake adjustments that I didn't have to reclamp the brake cables.

- Ed
groth is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 05:13 AM
  #18236  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Originally Posted by tigervw78
I picked up a 60's Sports from a coop a few weeks ago. I'd like to make it my daily commuter. It didn't have a seat so I took the vinyl sprung saddle from the 72 Sports. I'm thinking of sticking with the vinyl instead of a Brooks so I don't have to worry about staining. Will Kool stops provide enough stopping power with the original rims, or should I try to build alloy wheels? I've never built wheels before. Can I reuse the original spokes? I just ordered a 24T cog so I can use 3rd as the main gear. It's not really hilly in my area except for one bridge over a harbor, but I want the ride to be easy on my knees...
24T seems too big a cog to me. It would make 1st so low that I doubt you'd even use it.
I've been happy with a 20T or 22T swap.
let us know your experience with the 24T.
gster is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 05:42 AM
  #18237  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
24T seems too big a cog to me. It would make 1st so low that I doubt you'd even use it.
I've been happy with a 20T or 22T swap.
let us know your experience with the 24T.
I found 48x22 to be a bit too low for riding in flat country. I can spin out 3rd easily and don't need a granny for hills. 48x20 is about right for me. In hilly country, I need all the hill climbing help I can get and will gladly give up some overdrive.
BigChief is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 05:56 AM
  #18238  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 288 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I found 48x22 to be a bit too low for riding in flat country. I can spin out 3rd easily and don't need a granny for hills. 48x20 is about right for me. In hilly country, I need all the hill climbing help I can get and will gladly give up some overdrive.
I guess it all depends on your riding preferences and for some....
your age.
I just turned 59 (what happened?) and find 20T very comfortable.
3rd gear gets used more like 2nd.
gster is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 09:31 AM
  #18239  
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the info everyone. I've got a 22T on the 72 Sports with flipped bars and a B17 narrow. I mainly use 2nd on that one. I also recently got a 74 Sports with B66 that I plan to leave original and riding upright with the 18T is tough. I was considering the 24T because I traverse this steep harbor bridge quite a bit and Memphis humidity is a killer. Ironically, we can get pretty strong winds as well. I'll be 48 in a few days and the knees aren't as strong as they used to be....

If I find that riding upright with 24T is too low, I ordered a 22T as well, so I'll swap them. Will let you know how it goes.
tigervw78 is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 09:34 AM
  #18240  
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The 60's I picked up, the bottom pump peg is bent. Is it possible to straighten without breaking? Also, are there any leads on pumps?

Thanks again for the help!
tigervw78 is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 09:46 AM
  #18241  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,857

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2299 Post(s)
Liked 2,061 Times in 1,258 Posts
Originally Posted by tigervw78
The 60's I picked up, the bottom pump peg is bent. Is it possible to straighten without breaking? Also, are there any leads on pumps?

Thanks again for the help!
The steel is quite soft so bend it back slowly and you should be fine. Repro and original pumps aren't uncommon. The're really just for show since they don't work well and pop off the frame if sized incorrectly.

You asked about brakes and pads earlier. I find the older Raleigh calipers to be made of stern stuff so they can work well when set up. Keep your rims trued and brake tracks clean. Your pads should be filed or sanded occasionally. Experiment with the toe-in of the caliper arms and play around with your cable adjusters. There's a sweet spot where everything comes together, even with original parts.
clubman is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 09:50 AM
  #18242  
Overdoing projects
 
JaccoW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,405

Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller

Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 786 Post(s)
Liked 1,269 Times in 692 Posts
Gotta love (modern day) Sturmey Archer.

I'm giving the rusted pulleys I got off eBay a WD40 bath (Thanks @PeterLYoung) this week but the first one was succesfully dismantled and is ready for polishing.

Turns out the modern day cable guide pulleys are the exact same size (and have a brass axle to boot)!


I might get away with just polishing the wheel itself.
JaccoW is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 11:43 AM
  #18243  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by JaccoW
Gotta love (modern day) Sturmey Archer.

I'm giving the rusted pulleys I got off eBay a WD40 bath (Thanks @PeterLYoung) this week but the first one was succesfully dismantled and is ready for polishing.

Turns out the modern day cable guide pulleys are the exact same size (and have a brass axle to boot)!


I might get away with just polishing the wheel itself.
I posted earlier that soaking rusty components in White Vinegar for 3/4 days removes the rust, just clean up with a brass/copper bristle wire brush they then look like new. I have just used this process on all the small components, nuts & bolts for my 1936 BSA Roadster and they came up like new. These were originally painted parts so they were then ready for spraying with etch primer and a couple of coats of black gloss. They all look like new parts even though they are 80+ years old. Have to say the steel was much better then and did not corrode so badly.
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 10-14-18, 03:34 PM
  #18244  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
The earlier cable guides with the 2 piece bands were finished in gun barrel bluing. Sometime around 1950, SA changed to a dull gray finish. There were many different types of metal finishing and I'm not sure exactly the type, but it's similar to Parkerizing or Bonderizing. They used this same finish on the trigger shifter cases. The gun blued parts can be stripped of rust, polished and sent out to be hot blued at any gun shop. When restoring the gray finish I leave the rust in place. Maybe smooth it off a bit if it's scaley and burnish in some Brownells Action Magic dry lubricant. After a while it darkens and you would never know it wasn't the original finish.

A gun blued cable guide, cable stop and shifter

SA 38-48 by Billy Bones, on Flickr

Gray finished guide

Me using Action Magic on a frame mounted guide

BigChief is offline  
Old 10-15-18, 03:10 AM
  #18245  
Newbie
 
oldveloman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 65

Bikes: 1951-2 BSA 900E Roadster, 1961 Triumph Sports, 1953 Raleigh Sports, 1981 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Twenty, 1951 Taxandria, ±1950 The Gold Lion Tandem

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
I found this 1936 BSA Roadster at an auction, It has BSA Three Speed plus Hub Brakes Front & Rear. It is Model 602DX Serial Number WD29996 and cost £6-12/6d when new. I have not found another when searching on-line so far. I also cannot find a spare 3Speed BSA Rear Hub with combined Hub Brake for spares though at present all works OK. I have now stripped it all completely and am rebuilding it after repainting as paintwork was very poor as it had been badly hand painted by a previous owner. Mechanically it was in good shape and all components just needed cleaning, de rusting and repainting. Frame is being powder coated and I have new transfers.
Hope to have it all finished and back on the road for next summer.
Hi Peter,
That' s a very nice find

I have a 1954 BSA Model 900E Roadster with Stirrup brakes front and rear and the normal BSA 3-speed hub.
It is my favourite ride and is used for the longer journeys. The BSA 3-speed is very robust and is a licence built Sturmey Archer hub.
Below are some links to the Sturmey Acher pages:

Sturmey-Archer Heritage :: History

Sturmey-Archer Heritage :: History

Mine has the postwar “snap-control" trigger and the original rubber BSA grips.




Enjoy it!

Peter
oldveloman is offline  
Old 10-15-18, 05:02 AM
  #18246  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,451 Times in 1,558 Posts
Raleigh 3-speed, but not your ordinary Raleigh 3-speed.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...718738260.html

Raleigh chopper 3 speed bicycle - $180 (Richmond)







bicycle type: kids
frame size: not sure
wheel size: 16 in

Our chopper is for sale, it's in great working order my son has had hours of fun on his chopper, sadly he's now out grown it. We are now passing along the opportunity for the sale of the Chopper to the next cool kid on the block when you ride this bike you will be the coolest kid in the neighborhood. After many countless hours of fun my son has had on his Chopper, we hope your child will encounter as many enjoyable memories.Rear back break not working,but an easy fix. After doing our research on Ebay most choppers on eBay are a minimum starting price of $350.00. We are asking only $180.00 for our Chopper bike. This will be a cash only transaction. Contact Christine cell/text show contact info
Many thanks for reading.
thumpism is offline  
Old 10-15-18, 05:44 AM
  #18247  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
BSA Three Speed Hubs

Originally Posted by oldveloman
Hi Peter,
That' s a very nice find

I have a 1954 BSA Model 900E Roadster with Stirrup brakes front and rear and the normal BSA 3-speed hub.
It is my favourite ride and is used for the longer journeys. The BSA 3-speed is very robust and is a licence built Sturmey Archer hub.
Below are some links to the Sturmey Acher pages:

Sturmey-Archer Heritage :: History

Sturmey-Archer Heritage :: History

Mine has the postwar “snap-control" trigger and the original rubber BSA grips.




Enjoy it!

Peter
I have been looking on the Veteran Cycle Club Website and found some clarification of how the BSA Three Speed came into being and I Quote the VCC & Tony Hadland below:-
--------------------------------------------------------------------Quote
By 1907 BSA were desperate to produce a three-speed hub gear. They had merged with Eadie, makers of the Fagan two-speed and a two-speed coaster brake, early in 1907. Towards the end of that year they acquired the rights of the Hub Two-Speed Gear Company. BSA therefore had the rights to produce no less than three two-speed hubs: the Fagan (Eadie), the Hub and their own Mark II hub. In addition, they had the rights to the Eadie Two-Speed coaster. But demand for two-speeds was now much reduced, whereas the market for three-speeds was almost insatiable. The Hub Company had patented a three-speed in 1903 (#22,306) but nothing commercial seems to have come of it. BSA therefore approached the Three-Speed Gear Syndicate requesting permission to build the Sturmey-Archer three-speed under license. According to Henry Sturmey, writing in 1924, the Syndicate were unable to cope with demand in 1907 and therefore granted a license to BSA.
The Sturmey-Archer Story by Tony Hadland
The Fagan two-speed hub had been introduced at the 1903 Stanley Show for the 1904 season, and fitted as standard on the Royal Enfield Modele Riche, while a coaster brake was fitted to the ‘Royal Enfield’ and ‘Model B.’ BSA at this time only sold components, not complete bicycles, but their order books were full, and their bikes in knock-down form were in much demand from abroad, particularly Australia. Motorcycle builders favoured BSA bicycles, in particular their spring-frame models. BSA were about to expand their business: with the success of the motorcycle market, by 1910 they had also re-commenced full-scale cycle production. This was why it was essential for them to be able to fully control the supply of three-speed hubs.
------------------------------------------------------------------Unquote
So it is now clear to me that BSA did not design their three speed hub but I still need to determine the SA version I have, though it looks very much like the 'X' version copied from the SA History site and it has the same very fine threaded gear change spindle that is so easy to break if has corroded together.

Last edited by PeterLYoung; 10-15-18 at 06:04 AM. Reason: Grammar Correction
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 10-15-18, 05:55 AM
  #18248  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
Raleigh 3-speed, but not your ordinary Raleigh 3-speed.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...718738260.html

Raleigh chopper 3 speed bicycle - $180 (Richmond)







bicycle type: kids
frame size: not sure
wheel size: 16 in

Our chopper is for sale, it's in great working order my son has had hours of fun on his chopper, sadly he's now out grown it. We are now passing along the opportunity for the sale of the Chopper to the next cool kid on the block when you ride this bike you will be the coolest kid in the neighborhood. After many countless hours of fun my son has had on his Chopper, we hope your child will encounter as many enjoyable memories.Rear back break not working,but an easy fix. After doing our research on Ebay most choppers on eBay are a minimum starting price of $350.00. We are asking only $180.00 for our Chopper bike. This will be a cash only transaction. Contact Christine cell/text show contact info
Many thanks for reading.
Not the $350 Chopper you see on eBay. This isn't an English Raleigh. Much more recent, made in Asia somewhere.
BigChief is offline  
Old 10-15-18, 06:32 AM
  #18249  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
I found this 1936 BSA Roadster at an auction, It has BSA Three Speed plus Hub Brakes Front & Rear. It is Model 602DX Serial Number WD29996 and cost £6-12/6d when new. I have not found another when searching on-line so far. I also cannot find a spare 3Speed BSA Rear Hub with combined Hub Brake for spares though at present all works OK. I have now stripped it all completely and am rebuilding it after repainting as paintwork was very poor as it had been badly hand painted by a previous owner. Mechanically it was in good shape and all components just needed cleaning, de rusting and repainting. Frame is being powder coated and I have new transfers.
Hope to have it all finished and back on the road for next summer.






Just arrived in post today a BSA 3 Speed Hub plus a NOS BSA Hub Drive Piece, still has some greaseproof paper on it.

Now I can experiment with dismantling the hub plus have spare parts in case of repair or loss of components:-



Managed to unscrew the Gear Change Spindle OK so thats a good sign!!!
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 10-15-18, 09:25 PM
  #18250  
Senior Member
 
adventurepdx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,030
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 84 Times in 52 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
24T seems too big a cog to me. It would make 1st so low that I doubt you'd even use it.
I've been happy with a 20T or 22T swap.
let us know your experience with the 24T.
"So low"?
Well, maybe for pretty flat Toronto...
I have a 23T cog for both my three speeds, and appreciate the low for the varied topography of Portland. I don't care too much about the overdrive, I want something that'll get me up the hills.
adventurepdx is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.