gster

Raleigh Pair
Here in Toronto
$180.00 OBO
Happy New Year!!!

thumpism

I rode my two Sportses today in an effort to get the new year off to a good start. Actually rode all seven ready bikes but some do not qualify for this thread. The L23 works but is taking up a hook so it will be boxed up until I retire the M23 when I can no longer swing a leg over it and at that time I'll swap the good bits from the men's bike to the ladies' bike. The men's bike works but it really needs a taller stem with longer reach, the brake levers need to be changed to DC135s or something sleek without that protruding pinch bolt, and the nice-looking-but-uncomfortable B72 has to go. Don't know what will replace that saddle and I hope I have something in the stash that works. I probably also need alloy rims, so will try the 700C 3-speed alloys from my Swiss Condor before I build new wheels for it. Here's the fleet after two hours of shuffling them through the 2.3 mile loop.

Buellster

Seemingly... haha
Rode it around the parking lot at my shop for a few minutes and with a touch of tuning it shifted into all 4 gears up and down!
I think it must be a testament to thier design skill throughout thier history that this shifter from this year uses the same "clicks" as my hub from 64. The old adage "don't fix what isnt broken" seems to be in practice at SA.





It has been a crazy Journey getting this thing into a bike. The frame has been identified as a 70s Giante Interclub. Other than a sub par paint job it's in good shape. Only big issue is the stem is seized in so bad that trying to remove it turns the headset. It's fine where it is and as long as I dont try and take it out everything works haha
I've read these inter clubs are on par, if not better riding, with the UO8 and I loved my pugeot so I'm excited for this. The tubing is "Gitane Special" hi-ten which will likely work out wonderful as the base for this three speed.
My girlfriend got me a vintage french badge from a company I dont think is around anymore (I only found other head badges when searching Google and no full bike examples) and given that this bike is french I decided to put it on for the heck of it.
Here it is with the badge...


It may be blasphemous to some people to just apply a headbadge willy nilly but it will make her happy to see it on something and a french badge on a french bike is good enough for me.
Given it's new to me badge I think it shall be named "The Four Speed Flying French goat"
or perhaps
"The Flying Goat" for short.

obeachron

A really nice looking bike. 5 stars'

thumpism

Tourist alert: see C&V Sales for my Tourist pile.

thumpism

Nice oldie at a decent price, and a fine contender for the "Crustiest Brooks" title.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...786419746.html

Vintage 1960's/70's Raleigh 3-speed - $65 (City of Richmond)

bicycle type: road
frame size: Medium
wheel size: 26 in Needs new tires and a seat, light rust that will clean-up.

Dan Burkhart 

That's interesting. Their 5 speed shifters are not cross compatible across the generations of those hubs.

Buellster

I was quite surprised. Found it on Ebay for $18 which is a lot less than the older 4 speed trigger so I figured I'd try it still hoping to rebuild the original someday.
if I can ever get the danm pins out! Haha

SirMike1983 

Nice day for early January...

Ged117 

Hi folks,
I'm slowly disassembling the '50 Sports. Currently I'm working on rebuilding the pedals, but I can't seem to separate the housing pieces. The axle came out fine, but I'd like to remove and wash the blocks and polish the housing. Not sure how to do so (the method for later pedals doesn't seem to work). See below. Thanks...

Bad Lag

My bike is not English and is not three speeds. What it has is a sprung BROOKS saddle carrying a black BROOKS saddle bag. It is my homage to black English 3 speeds but with more than a few modern updates to greatly enhance the bike's usefulness - 8 speed IGH, North Roads bars, double-butted Cro-Mo frame, cantilever brakes and stainless steel fenders covering lovely big, fat tires.

BigChief 

Those are just long bolts through the rubber blocks. I didn't remove them because I was afraid I'd mess up the threads if I hammered on the ends. I put some polish on a cloth and threaded it through to polish the chrome. I love these early style pedals.

thumpism

Found this prize at a hole-in-the-wall shop's open house. Never seen one in the metal before. If it had been cheap I'd have bought it, but it was nowhere near cheap. Laced to an ancient Weinmann tubular rim.

Dan Burkhart 

Look at the length of those spoke nipples. Looks like nipples made for wooden rims.

thumpism

And the thinnest spokes I've seen in a built wheel.

clubman 

A deadblow or wooden mallet should start the bolts moving, drip some lubricant in and they should come out without too much fuss.

jamesj

Does anyone have a 1 inch fulcrum clip for the top tube they are willing to get rid off?

dweenk 

I thought I had you covered, but mine measures as 1 1/8. Could you shim it with a piece of inner tube? If you can use it, it is yours for free.

clubman 

I'll look tomorrow...standard Sports top tube yes?

jamesj

I think I might have one of those, I just don't want to shim it cause the brake line runs along the top tube and it isn't the movable kind. I don't know maybe I'm overthinking it.

jamesj

Yes, just regular Sports.

Buellster

Phew. So I was going at the pins in my 4 speed shifter, when the hole punch bent on me! I bent it back with some pliers but it just kept bending. The punch did not work. So I picked up a similair tool, one actually made to punch nails out of wood, it was much sturdier and I was able to bust it through!

Before I did this job I bought some small machine screws with the hopes of replacing the pins. It worked! They fit in through the first hole and then could be screwed through the rear faceplate. After taking them in and out a few times the metal widened and I can now just pull them out. Attaching a nut keeps them in place. To me this was perfect because I can adjust how tight the case is. I'm glad I went this route because I had to experiment with the old spring and how much bend was not enough or too much. To do that I had to take it apart quite a few times and had I been using the pins I definitely would have lost patience. Now I can service the spring easy if and when it wears again!




Also it should be noted that though the new shifter works for awhile, that first gear manages to pull itself out going up hills or on heavy pushes of any kind. So it kind of works.
just an fyi to anyone considering it.

clubman 

Pm'd

BigChief 

A proper punch set is a great tool to have around. I have a Starrett set from my days as a tool and die maker, but even a cheapo set like this would be fine for occasional bike work. I would add a center punch to the kit for drilling.
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Pin-Pu...ords=punch+set

BigChief 

center punch
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-117C...s=center+punch