For the love of English 3 speeds...
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A proper punch set is a great tool to have around. I have a Starrett set from my days as a tool and die maker, but even a cheapo set like this would be fine for occasional bike work. I would add a center punch to the kit for drilling.
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Pin-Pu...ords=punch+set
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Pin-Pu...ords=punch+set
Set one is the kind I bent haha picked it up at lowes. Likley using it wrong, or perhaps the pins were proper stuck.
Second link is similair to what I actually used to get it out. I'm glad i have them now. I'd say getting them apart is the toughest part, everything seemed pretty easy after that ordeal haha
The spring require significantly more tension than I would have thought. No wonder they wear down.
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Springs will take a set after time. Somewhere back in this thread is a photo comparison of a new trigger spring and one that had been in use for 50 years. You can re-set them if they aren't rusted. You can also use a center punch to tighten up the press fit of the trigger pins if they don't hold tightly in the hole at the back of the case. A gentle center punch will flare out the top of the pin so it holds securely.
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Luckily it was quite bendable still. I still have the new leaf springs in case I end up needing them but I figure since the old one could work, I should keep the spares new.
I didnt even try and set the punches once I found the machine bolts fit. I know it's not a full resto unless I use the pins but you've seen the bike it's on so it's not like I'm damageing any integrity haha
It just strikes me the bolts are a better set up than the pins, as far as future disassembly goes that is.
I didnt even try and set the punches once I found the machine bolts fit. I know it's not a full resto unless I use the pins but you've seen the bike it's on so it's not like I'm damageing any integrity haha
It just strikes me the bolts are a better set up than the pins, as far as future disassembly goes that is.
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And thank you @BigChief for all the help!
I could not have done it without you. There a hundred videos for dissembling hubs but none for the triggers, without you I'd have been lost!
I could not have done it without you. There a hundred videos for dissembling hubs but none for the triggers, without you I'd have been lost!
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Too hard to tell without pics. IMO very few Sports are worth $200, especially with trashed seats and rust. Many times, $50 is too much. You are more likely to screw up by jumping at offers without an informed opinion so you probably did the right thing. Don't stress, there's thousands of them out there. Where do you live?
Too hard to tell without pics. IMO very few Sports are worth $200, especially with trashed seats and rust. Many times, $50 is too much. You are more likely to screw up by jumping at offers without an informed opinion so you probably did the right thing. Don't stress, there's thousands of them out there. Where do you live?
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In New England, $200 is a top of the line price for a Sports, but there are a lot of different factors that add or subtract value. Some of them are personal to me and not important to the marketplace. Some good features can cancel out bad ones, so it's a balance of what you want to end up with against what you're willing to spend. Many variations out there, they aren't rare.
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@mtb_addict
I have a nice Sports with a B-72 that isn't too bad. Its a 1963 IIRC. The frame is a 23". I have new brake pads, tires and tubes on it so its probably going to go for about $125.00 or so. Paint is a bit faded, but the graphics are intact. I'm in St. Paul; pretty sure its not worth the drive!
If that gives you any idea of what a Sports goes for... $200 in the condition of the photo you posted is nuts IMO. You did the right thing.
I have a nice Sports with a B-72 that isn't too bad. Its a 1963 IIRC. The frame is a 23". I have new brake pads, tires and tubes on it so its probably going to go for about $125.00 or so. Paint is a bit faded, but the graphics are intact. I'm in St. Paul; pretty sure its not worth the drive!
If that gives you any idea of what a Sports goes for... $200 in the condition of the photo you posted is nuts IMO. You did the right thing.
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@mtb_addict
If that gives you any idea of what a Sports goes for... $200 in the condition of the photo you posted is nuts IMO. You did the right thing.
If that gives you any idea of what a Sports goes for... $200 in the condition of the photo you posted is nuts IMO. You did the right thing.
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@mtb_addict
I have a nice Sports with a B-72 that isn't too bad. Its a 1963 IIRC. The frame is a 23". I have new brake pads, tires and tubes on it so its probably going to go for about $125.00 or so. Paint is a bit faded, but the graphics are intact. I'm in St. Paul; pretty sure its not worth the drive!
If that gives you any idea of what a Sports goes for... $200 in the condition of the photo you posted is nuts IMO. You did the right thing.
I have a nice Sports with a B-72 that isn't too bad. Its a 1963 IIRC. The frame is a 23". I have new brake pads, tires and tubes on it so its probably going to go for about $125.00 or so. Paint is a bit faded, but the graphics are intact. I'm in St. Paul; pretty sure its not worth the drive!
If that gives you any idea of what a Sports goes for... $200 in the condition of the photo you posted is nuts IMO. You did the right thing.
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Does anyone know why some of the SA triggers have the text upside down?

Like should I be mounting this undearneath on the left side? Is it so people can read it from the front of the bike if its tilted flat?
I've seen it on the old 3 speed ones too and it just seems odd.

Like should I be mounting this undearneath on the left side? Is it so people can read it from the front of the bike if its tilted flat?
I've seen it on the old 3 speed ones too and it just seems odd.
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Does anyone know why some of the SA triggers have the text upside down?
Like should I be mounting this underneath on the left side? Is it so people can read it from the front of the bike if its tilted flat?
I've seen it on the old 3 speed ones too and it just seems odd.
Like should I be mounting this underneath on the left side? Is it so people can read it from the front of the bike if its tilted flat?
I've seen it on the old 3 speed ones too and it just seems odd.

They look better on drop bars or flipped bars, which was more common in that era (50's).
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Re: Triggers: I am sure a lot of you have seen this but for those that haven't here is an excellent reference for all things SA Trigger:
https://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanc...gersjuly06.pdf
Mark
https://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanc...gersjuly06.pdf
Mark
Last edited by markk900; 01-11-19 at 06:36 AM.
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Shiny!!! Really nice period piece, an Austrian Sears bike that is probably overpriced.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...792076190.html



bicycle type: other
condition: like new
frame size: other
make / manufacturer: SEARS
wheel size: other/unknown
Sears Made in Austria bicycle
Steal lugged frame
Original Royce headlight and taillight system/generator
Dual side baskets over rear wheel
Richmond va licence plate
VCU 1975 Bike Registration
3 speed internal rear hub.
Original fenders, pedals, pump
Tires and tubes have been replaced, in great shape no dry-rot.
Great bike for back to school or commuter classic.
Please text or email, or leave a voicemail. Thanks, Dak
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...792076190.html
SEARS road/commuter classic - $299 (Richmond)



bicycle type: other
condition: like new
frame size: other
make / manufacturer: SEARS
wheel size: other/unknown
Sears Made in Austria bicycle
Steal lugged frame
Original Royce headlight and taillight system/generator
Dual side baskets over rear wheel
Richmond va licence plate
VCU 1975 Bike Registration
3 speed internal rear hub.
Original fenders, pedals, pump
Tires and tubes have been replaced, in great shape no dry-rot.
Great bike for back to school or commuter classic.
Please text or email, or leave a voicemail. Thanks, Dak
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This is how I mount mine as well. That's why I prefer the older style with the longer trigger. Apparently, SA was aware of the problem of their triggers getting bent from leaning bikes against walls back in 1939 as they issued this recommendation for "Flick trigger" mounting. They advise mounting them far back on the handlebar to what I consider an inconvenient position. Things got even worse when Raleigh introduced their "light alloy prop stand" in 1954. These are notoriously tippy and today, bent window triggers are common. I think this was the motivation for the short trigger, through body mounting bolt version in the mid 50s. Mine are mounted in the convenient position, but I always use the far more stable alloy ESGE kick stands on my bikes.

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This is how I mount mine as well. That's why I prefer the older style with the longer trigger. Apparently, SA was aware of the problem of their triggers getting bent from leaning bikes against walls back in 1939 as they issued this recommendation for "Flick trigger" mounting. They advise mounting them far back on the handlebar to what I consider an inconvenient position. Things got even worse when Raleigh introduced their "light alloy prop stand" in 1954. These are notoriously tippy and today, bent window triggers are common. I think this was the motivation for the short trigger, through body mounting bolt version in the mid 50s. Mine are mounted in the convenient position, but I always use the far more stable alloy ESGE kick stands on my bikes.


At least that's my style.
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I did!
Unfortunately, I'm out of town that weekend. Thanks for the invite though! And please let me know the next time one is coming up. I'll feel like I belong now that my old style trigger is back in place Haha
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I have had the pleasure of doing Lake Pepin several times. Wonderful event.
I ride my Phillips 3-speed resto/mod up there.
I have a wonderfully original 72 Superbe in my collection as well.
I ride my Phillips 3-speed resto/mod up there.
I have a wonderfully original 72 Superbe in my collection as well.
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Now that makes sense! I'm gonna need to move mine to that position and see how it feels.
I did!
Unfortunately, I'm out of town that weekend. Thanks for the invite though! And please let me know the next time one is coming up. I'll feel like I belong now that my old style trigger is back in place Haha
I did!
Unfortunately, I'm out of town that weekend. Thanks for the invite though! And please let me know the next time one is coming up. I'll feel like I belong now that my old style trigger is back in place Haha
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Quoted wrong post.
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Shiny!!! Really nice period piece, an Austrian Sears bike that is probably overpriced.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...792076190.html



bicycle type: other
condition: like new
frame size: other
make / manufacturer: SEARS
wheel size: other/unknown
Sears Made in Austria bicycle
Steal lugged frame
Original Royce headlight and taillight system/generator
Dual side baskets over rear wheel
Richmond va licence plate
VCU 1975 Bike Registration
3 speed internal rear hub.
Original fenders, pedals, pump
Tires and tubes have been replaced, in great shape no dry-rot.
Great bike for back to school or commuter classic.
Please text or email, or leave a voicemail. Thanks, Dak
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...792076190.html
SEARS road/commuter classic - $299 (Richmond)



bicycle type: other
condition: like new
frame size: other
make / manufacturer: SEARS
wheel size: other/unknown
Sears Made in Austria bicycle
Steal lugged frame
Original Royce headlight and taillight system/generator
Dual side baskets over rear wheel
Richmond va licence plate
VCU 1975 Bike Registration
3 speed internal rear hub.
Original fenders, pedals, pump
Tires and tubes have been replaced, in great shape no dry-rot.
Great bike for back to school or commuter classic.
Please text or email, or leave a voicemail. Thanks, Dak
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I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin