For the love of English 3 speeds...
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The 60's were a transitional time for SA as markets dwindled and the company had to focus on cost cutting and that impacted the tolerances of the parts made for their hubs. When Sunrace eventually bought all the tooling for SA hubs it was mostly worn out junk and they retooled everything, at huge expense.. Sheldon Brown's pages are essential reading.
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[QUOTE=arty dave;20756675]
It does let the two-rail saddle fit a conventional seatpost, but in some way it stresses the B72s thin rails, and they break. Crazy thing? The first time it happened, Brooks replaced the saddle! Even though I told them I'd used the seat sandwich! They warned me the replacement would break if I did the same thing. So what did I do? I did the same thing. And the second one broke, too. (I took my losses with that one.) Brooks made the B68 for awhile, a B72 with single rails (like how they now make the B66 and B67). I intended to buy one eventually. Then Brooks ceased production. Frustrating. I wonder if someone at Brooks would answer the question, if asked why.
Jeebers that sucks - bad design? I'm a fan too, I've been riding the bike I put my B72 on a lot more lately, and it really works for me. I didn't like it at first, but I guess it's now reshaped itself to fit me. I need to punch some holes and lace it as it's starting to flare out a bit.
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Picked up a Koga-Miyata SilverAce today. Drum brakes, Sturmey Archer "Elite" 3-speed and more importantly, in my size!
No pics as of yet, but it's basically this model:

It's made of Koga's Hardtlite Hi-Magna HM-2 forks andFM-2 chromo tubing and lots of little details are made of stainless steel like the rear carier, rims and handlebars.
I've always wanted a steel 3-speed commuter and it seems like I found something. Mine isn't as pristine as the model above (resprayed top tube and mismatched rims). But a initial test ride shows it is a solid comfortable ride which should be great for riding around town.
No pics as of yet, but it's basically this model:

It's made of Koga's Hardtlite Hi-Magna HM-2 forks and
I've always wanted a steel 3-speed commuter and it seems like I found something. Mine isn't as pristine as the model above (resprayed top tube and mismatched rims). But a initial test ride shows it is a solid comfortable ride which should be great for riding around town.

Last edited by JaccoW; 01-21-19 at 06:44 PM.
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Mine is a SilverAce or a RoadAce (1982-1992), which is made from Hi-Magna HM-2 double butted tubing with stainless parts (~17.2 Kg). Earlier versions (1982) were available with aluminum parts (16.8 Kg).
I'll have to check the exact model in daylight The frame-tubing sticker and the actual name was sprayed over.
For the slightly lighter (16.5 Kg) Hardtlite FM-2 chromoly frames and Hi-Magna HM-2 forks check out the RoadAce (1985-1994) and RoadTourer (1994).
Later version were even made from FM-1 or FM-3 chromoly spiral splined triple buttedtubing. Many had Sturmey Archer 3-speed and 5-speed hubs. From 1998 they switched to aluminum... and a Sachs Elan 12-speed hub!
I don't remember all of this from the top of my head but Koga has an awesome collection of brochures spanning all the way back to 1976!

Last edited by JaccoW; 01-21-19 at 07:34 PM.
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If these bikes are left outside for a long time I suspect that water can get in the hub and do some damage. The majority of the damage is from poor maintenance and "Bike Mechanics" over tightening the cones. They really need to be finger tight with a little play (looseness). It's an acquired skill. With the bike inverted, the wheel should spin freely while the pedals don't spin, or spin a bit then stop. That's where those little cone spanners come in handy.


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Up until the 90's there we're many Euro manufacturers using cadmium plating, providing good resistance to oxidation. BMW used it on all their exposed steel (motorcycle) hardware. Maybe SA/Raleigh used it too? It's banned now.
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Yes, only a very thin cone wrench will get in there. On the old hubs I've opened, the grease and oil dried and turned to crusty sludge might have helped ward off corrosion. But sprockets, spacers, dustcap are all out in the open and all oil or grease washed off by exposure yet nothing but very superficial fine powdery rust. Well, the dustcap is galvanized, I think. This isn't "stainless" steel but it is very durable. Come to think, it would be interesting to know the alloy.
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The older outer dust caps had a black finish like the cogs. There were many black finished parts on the older Raleighs, but they slowly changed to that silver/gray finish or chrome over the years. Raleigh seemed to take finishing their steel parts seriously. All of them were of high quality.

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Interesting Bike for sale

Listed as a Canadian built Gold Medal circa 1954 with SA components.
A sharp looking bike with good paint.

Could be a CCM sub brand.
Seller is asking $180.00

Listed as a Canadian built Gold Medal circa 1954 with SA components.
A sharp looking bike with good paint.

Could be a CCM sub brand.
Seller is asking $180.00
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It still needs some work but I started a thread with some more info.
Turns out is is a 1989 RoadAce.
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Huffy Sportsman
New poster here. I have seen quite a few posts on this site while researching my recent purchase of a Huffy Sportsman. The SA hub says 1964. It was in fairly nice original condition. The add was up for months for $200, but I finally bought it for $100 which is probably too much for a Huffy. I just wanted to try a quality 3 speed.
Kinda fun to mess with, and in nice enough condition to have patina but not be a junker. Needs teardown I suppose for lube, but rides/shifts decent after some oil in the hub, and ditching the twist shift for a vintage thumb lever shifter. I recently bought a nice Brooks B72 from the era to replace the uncomfortable ugly tan springer small triangular 80s seat that was on it.
A nice casual ride for around the urban neighborhoods. I also swapped out the rear sprocket to get a bit easier gearing for this old man thanks to the info I found here. Winter here in NW Ohio, so little riding and just more reading and wrenching.
Kinda fun to mess with, and in nice enough condition to have patina but not be a junker. Needs teardown I suppose for lube, but rides/shifts decent after some oil in the hub, and ditching the twist shift for a vintage thumb lever shifter. I recently bought a nice Brooks B72 from the era to replace the uncomfortable ugly tan springer small triangular 80s seat that was on it.
A nice casual ride for around the urban neighborhoods. I also swapped out the rear sprocket to get a bit easier gearing for this old man thanks to the info I found here. Winter here in NW Ohio, so little riding and just more reading and wrenching.
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New poster here. I have seen quite a few posts on this site while researching my recent purchase of a Huffy Sportsman. The SA hub says 1964. It was in fairly nice original condition. The add was up for months for $200, but I finally bought it for $100 which is probably too much for a Huffy. I just wanted to try a quality 3 speed.
Kinda fun to mess with, and in nice enough condition to have patina but not be a junker. Needs teardown I suppose for lube, but rides/shifts decent after some oil in the hub, and ditching the twist shift for a vintage thumb lever shifter. I recently bought a nice Brooks B72 from the era to replace the uncomfortable ugly tan springer small triangular 80s seat that was on it.
A nice casual ride for around the urban neighborhoods. I also swapped out the rear sprocket to get a bit easier gearing for this old man thanks to the info I found here. Winter here in NW Ohio, so little riding and just more reading and wrenching.
Kinda fun to mess with, and in nice enough condition to have patina but not be a junker. Needs teardown I suppose for lube, but rides/shifts decent after some oil in the hub, and ditching the twist shift for a vintage thumb lever shifter. I recently bought a nice Brooks B72 from the era to replace the uncomfortable ugly tan springer small triangular 80s seat that was on it.
A nice casual ride for around the urban neighborhoods. I also swapped out the rear sprocket to get a bit easier gearing for this old man thanks to the info I found here. Winter here in NW Ohio, so little riding and just more reading and wrenching.
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The Raleigh made ones will have the cottered cranks like @BigChief mentioned, and have lugs. They should also have a "Made in England" indicator somewhere (if it didn't wear off):


The American made Huffy Sportsman will have a one piece crank and lack lugs. It'll more likely have a Shimano three speed hub (but not always.) It'll look something like this.

In any case, @sd5782 please post a pic!
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Those are some mighty interesting frame angles! Wish I was in the market as I love mystery bikes....
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Bicycles remind me of musical instruments. They're different from other machines in the way that they require constant input and close contact to operate. Just like musical instruments, seemingly minor details make large differences in the overall feeling you get from using them. I put a lot of miles on my 51 Rudge during my visit to Florida. It gave me a chance to really bond with this bike. I've never had a Raleigh this old before and now I'm ready to relay an opinion to my fellow roadster enthusiasts. I am now going to make a distinction between 2030 and pre 2030 Raleighs. In the 1954 catalog, Raleigh states " Most Raleigh cycles are now built of 2030 the new high carbon content steel tubing. 2030 gives a stronger and more rigid cycle combined with extra liveliness" I believe this is accurate. When I had the 51 Rudge apart, I noticed that the frame felt heavier than other 23" Raleigh Sports frames. Riding, this bike doesn't feel as "lively" as later light roadsters. The feeling is more old fashioned. Not bad at all, enjoyable in it's own way, like a DL-1, but not as sporty as the 2030 framed bikes.

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@BigChief: I recently stripped down my 49 Humber and was surprised that the frame felt as light as it did, but I have not had access to a post 2030 frame in the same size to compare.
Riding it I did find it a bit heavy feeling but I attributed that partly to the Panaracer tires (lovely ride but soft) and the higher gearing of the Humber chainwheel - perhaps it was indeed the weight.
Warning to the patina police: I finally decided I was fed up with the condition of the paint (it was Humber blue over black and the factory blue was 3/4 missing) so I’ve repainted and I must say I am glad I did. Looks amazing (not up to @SirMike1983 level but ...). Photos coming after I put on the decals which won’t be for a while - too icy here.
Riding it I did find it a bit heavy feeling but I attributed that partly to the Panaracer tires (lovely ride but soft) and the higher gearing of the Humber chainwheel - perhaps it was indeed the weight.
Warning to the patina police: I finally decided I was fed up with the condition of the paint (it was Humber blue over black and the factory blue was 3/4 missing) so I’ve repainted and I must say I am glad I did. Looks amazing (not up to @SirMike1983 level but ...). Photos coming after I put on the decals which won’t be for a while - too icy here.
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If so that is definitely raleigh built and was/is a nice bike. Let's see pictures. Here's my '65 sports that I am selling in case you need another . Also have '63 and need to make room!
Last edited by Slowride79; 01-26-19 at 08:15 AM.
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Yes, mine is a Huffeigh, and nearly identical to the black one pictured by Adventurepdx. I knew it was a Raleigh actually, but didn't think the Huffy branded ones were as desirable in the collecting world, and hence my reluctance to pay too much. The condition is very similar to the one pictured. It had a cheap "Persons" 80s tan triangular compact springer seat similar in style to the two tone one pictured. Will try to get a couple pics up soon too.
Slowride is also correct about seeing the bike listed for sale. It was posted for months with no takers, and did have the basket on the front which interfered greatly with the cables. I was able to engineer the basket to the rear. The twist grip shifting worked poorly. I was able to get a nice vintage SA thumb shift and a NOS shift cable. One NOS brake cable too. I did manage to find a very nice vintage B72 saddle for it, but haven't ridden on it much yet. Pics soon.
Slowride is also correct about seeing the bike listed for sale. It was posted for months with no takers, and did have the basket on the front which interfered greatly with the cables. I was able to engineer the basket to the rear. The twist grip shifting worked poorly. I was able to get a nice vintage SA thumb shift and a NOS shift cable. One NOS brake cable too. I did manage to find a very nice vintage B72 saddle for it, but haven't ridden on it much yet. Pics soon.