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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 01-29-19, 03:01 PM
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@Ged117

Are you aware that the front hub is mounted with the locknut side on the left?
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Old 01-29-19, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
@Ged117

Are you aware that the front hub is mounted with the locknut side on the left?
I am aware sir but thank you - my front wheel is a replacement that is not Raleigh type. It is a steel Canadian-made one from the 1960s or so. It will do while I consider how to replace it (I'd rather have an original Raleigh).

I was thinking that since original 1950 spec 32H 'special feature' Raleigh front wheels with stainless spokes are unobtanium (unless one is willing to pay a fortune!) I will likely find myself a 36H Raleigh front in good shape to install. Those aren't especially easy to find either, though pairs with a rear pop up on classifieds every now and again.
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Old 01-29-19, 03:47 PM
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The 32H Westricks were in use until 1973 or so. Hard to find, but not unobtanium.I would hold out for a 32. The galvanized spokes could always be replaced later.
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Old 01-29-19, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
For the headset, I was thinking of using my 12" channel lock pliers with some duct tape wrapped around the teeth for the locking nuts. Is that common for folks without large Whitworth wrenches?
for alternarive To bikesmith Cotter pin press as was mentioned you can modify harbor freight motorcycle chain breaker.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/731167-16-cotter-press.html

they have no locations in Canada but they will ship to Canada (except Quebec). You have to call for shipping rate.

https://m.harborfreight.com/customer-service-shipping-delivery.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

for headset I have a very large adjustable wrench I use but you could try channel locks with heavy rags over lock nut
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Old 01-29-19, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I'm a few years older than you. Back when I was around 10, a few friends and I developed an interest in racing bicycles. Of course, on a paperboy budget we wern't going to be buying a racing bike...but we could find old rusty English 3 speeds for next to nothing or even free on trash day. Strip off mudguards, chainguards kickstands, flip the handle bar around and bingo...racing bikes!. Later, I spent many years riding 10 speed touring bikes, but I never lost my fascination with the old fashioned 3 speeds. Now, all these years later I spend most of my riding time on old roadsters I've fixed up. It's a wonderful hobby.
Yes, a very good hobby. The more time you spend working on these bikes, the more you learn.
Very well built machines. Lots of quirks, but each presents it's own unique challenges.
No need to spend a lot of $$, I can usually turn one around for $100.00 or less..
This doesn't account for your time (= $0.00)
A rebuilt 3 speed is good for another 50+ years.
Please post photos of your progress.
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Old 01-29-19, 08:55 PM
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I made my own thread for this bike...but it belongs here too. LOVE This 74 Raleigh Superbe




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Old 01-30-19, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jjhabbs
I made my own thread for this bike...but it belongs here too. LOVE This 74 Raleigh Superbe




Your bike looks like it just came off the showroom floor.
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Old 01-30-19, 11:45 AM
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Thanks the bicycle is in good shape. It passes the 5ft test well. however when you get close you can see the wear and tear on the fenders and such.. But over all in great shape.

JJ
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Old 01-30-19, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jjhabbs
I made my own thread for this bike...but it belongs here too. LOVE This 74 Raleigh Superbe
Nothing but 1st Class, John!
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Old 01-30-19, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by crank_addict
Nothing but 1st Class, John!
Agree - wonderful bike!

As to the question around special tools: I made do with a c clamp for cotters for quite a while but finally got the Bikesmith cotter press - yes it is better but not quite the magic I expected (it works great on English cranks but some French and Canadian cranks haven’t as much clearance so it is still a challenge).

i still use a punch and hammer for the bb lock ring - not sure why you would need anything else as long as you are not a gorilla. Also use that for the SA hub.

i use a large adjustable for headsets - channel
locks work but are too easy to slip and/or bear down on too hard.


Last edited by markk900; 01-30-19 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 01-30-19, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900

Agree - wonderful bike!

As to the question around special tools: I made do with a c clamp for cotters for quite a while but finally got the Bikesmith cotter press - yes it is better but not quite the magic I expected (it works great on English cranks but some French and Canadian cranks haven’t as much clearance so it is still a challenge).

i still use a punch and hammer for the bb lock ring - not sure why you would need anything else as long as you are not a gorilla. Also use that for the SA hub.

i use a large adjustable for headsets - channel
locks work but are too easy to slip and/or bear down on too hard.


The reason I like the HCW-5 lock ring spanner is that I can tighten the lock ring single handed. I can hold the cup in place with pliers...or the HCW-11 makes it even easier, then tighten up the lock ring with my other hand.
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Old 01-31-19, 06:01 AM
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@BigChief: for sure the right tool makes the job easier....just letting @Ged117 know some specialty tools are not really required until you do those jobs regularly. I when doing my BB adjustment it often takes me several tries to get things "just so"....but I only do about one a year so up to now haven't seen the need to buy the "right" tool.
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Old 01-31-19, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by markk900
@BigChief: for sure the right tool makes the job easier....just letting @Ged117 know some specialty tools are not really required until you do those jobs regularly. I when doing my BB adjustment it often takes me several tries to get things "just so"....but I only do about one a year so up to now haven't seen the need to buy the "right" tool.
Well...I do have to admit to being a tool junkie. I'm always looking for an excuse to buy them.
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Old 01-31-19, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by clubman
I'll look tomorrow...standard Sports top tube yes?
Sorry to jump into this topic late, but it looks to me like the fulcrum needs to be rigidly fixed in position on the frame, as does the guide wheel at the top of the seat tube. If either of them moves, the indicator positions are commensurately moved, changing the shift points. A rubber shim might slip over time. I'd think a metal shim would be a better choice - maybe cobble up a few Nitto handlebar clamp shims to fill the space?
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Old 01-31-19, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Road Fan
Sorry to jump into this topic late, but it looks to me like the fulcrum needs to be rigidly fixed in position on the frame, as does the guide wheel at the top of the seat tube. If either of them moves, the indicator positions are commensurately moved, changing the shift points. A rubber shim might slip over time. I'd think a metal shim would be a better choice - maybe cobble up a few Nitto handlebar clamp shims to fill the space?
Correct on all counts. Set your pulley position, (or use braze-on), thread cable and then find the optimal position for the fulcrum stop and clamp and secure firmly.

The clamps generally came in 2 sizes to match the common tube diameters so James needed the smaller. Shims are less than ideal. Usually fulcrums were clamped to bare (painted) steel, although a little clear tape underneath couldn't hurt.

Last edited by clubman; 01-31-19 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 01-31-19, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Yes, vinegar is another step milder than Evapo-rust and is the only thing I would use to get rust stains off a shifter faceplate. The chrome there is very fragile. Never use abrasives. It's not the usual type of chrome plating. It's almost like it was printed on somehow. The back of the plate is bare brass and even the embossed areas aren't plated. If the color comes off, you can see there's no plating underneath. By the way, I can repair that shifter. If the bend is towards the back, the repair won't be noticeable. If the bend is forward and the faceplate is bent, it gets more tricky. A soft bend in the faceplate might smooth out, but there's no way to get a crease looking flat again. The colors in the embossed areas can be replaced.
Very interesting! I'm hoping to be close to finally getting my Rudge's chainset disassembled, and then comes the frame. It's 1952 and has similarly wonderful paint to Peter's Phillips. The figured painting or decals are wonderful and in good condition. I have a few tasks after mechanically stripping, and I wonder what's the best order of operations. I would like to preserve but not renew the decals as they exist, and repaint or touch up the rust spots once they have been cleared. After that I'll have to peruse available equivalents to the Raleigh/Rudge/Super Lenton blue that was used and see about a match. I'm a better mechanic than paint technician.

As I see it:

> strip off all the parts
> photograph the decals and the details
> degrease inside and out - citrus degreaser? what about the decals?
> use vinegar or Evaporust soaked onto rags to address spot-corrosion and larger corrosion areas (seat lug and BB)
> smooth, prime, and stabilize as necessary [at this point it should be rideable with OEM chainset and BB]
> (somehow) address the decals and worn paint,
> Consider hot-rodding
>>>light rims, alloy double chainset, alloy seat pillar and stem, match the brake handles, possible build a new wheel with my FG hub.

I think this will ultimately be a great century rider if I can manage a wider gear range, fenders, and some lighting!
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Old 01-31-19, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by markk900
@BigChief: I recently stripped down my 49 Humber and was surprised that the frame felt as light as it did, but I have not had access to a post 2030 frame in the same size to compare.

Riding it I did find it a bit heavy feeling but I attributed that partly to the Panaracer tires (lovely ride but soft) and the higher gearing of the Humber chainwheel - perhaps it was indeed the weight.

Warning to the patina police: I finally decided I was fed up with the condition of the paint (it was Humber blue over black and the factory blue was 3/4 missing) so I’ve repainted and I must say I am glad I did. Looks amazing (not up to @SirMike1983 level but ...). Photos coming after I put on the decals which won’t be for a while - too icy here.
According to Peter Kohler's blogs (On the rivet) Humbers in those days were clones of Raleigh designs as were Rudges, all the way down to the same chainring/rear sprocket counts, fork offset, and frame angles. Plus, on many of the Clubman series, Reynolds 531 at least main tubes was supplied, of course with appropriate decals. I wonder how the two types of frame you evaluated would compare to a "Guaranteed Built with Reynolds 531 Plain Gauge Tubes, Fork, and Stays?"
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Old 01-31-19, 03:59 PM
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The Root Beer Express

A first showing of my 1972 Raleigh Sports 23" frame winter project. With the help of a good friend we got the front mudguard and chain guard acceptably straightened . I went with the original style of cable routing for a change. It will be compared "head to head" with SWAT my DL1 for summer town cruising.
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Old 01-31-19, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
A first showing of my 1972 Raleigh Sports 23" frame winter project. With the help of a good friend we got the front mudguard and chain guard acceptably straightened . I went with the original style of cable routing for a change. It will be compared "head to head" with SWAT my DL1 for summer town cruising.
Wow! That is one beautiful roadster. Computer images can be deceiving, but that looks to be burgundy. The 72 catalog doesn't mention that color. Then again, it shows the top tube cable routing and self adjust levers too. Can't always depend on catalogs with Raleighs.
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Old 01-31-19, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Fan
Sorry to jump into this topic late, but it looks to me like the fulcrum needs to be rigidly fixed in position on the frame, as does the guide wheel at the top of the seat tube. If either of them moves, the indicator positions are commensurately moved, changing the shift points. A rubber shim might slip over time. I'd think a metal shim would be a better choice - maybe cobble up a few Nitto handlebar clamp shims to fill the space?
I have a nice untouched Superbe in the garage and often use it as a guide for cable routing, parts placement etc.
I've discovered the three finger measure for the fulcrum stop and stand by it.


Measure from the lug back and you're good.
This one's got a leather shim.
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Old 01-31-19, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
A first showing of my 1972 Raleigh Sports 23" frame winter project. With the help of a good friend we got the front mudguard and chain guard acceptably straightened . I went with the original style of cable routing for a change. It will be compared "head to head" with SWAT my DL1 for summer town cruising.
Beautiful bike.
My only comment is I'd prefer the trigger "flattened"...
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Old 01-31-19, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I have a nice untouched Superbe in the garage and often use it as a guide for cable routing, parts placement etc.
I've discovered the three finger measure for the fulcrum stop and stand by it.

Measure from the lug back and you're good.
This one's got a leather shim.
This method works if you're got the right gear cable. There were different lengths available over the years. Ultimately, the indicator chain needs to have the right range of movement to dial in the gears and that may require adjustment of the fulcrum
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Old 01-31-19, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
This method works if you're got the right gear cable. There were different lengths available over the years. Ultimately, the indicator chain needs to have the right range of movement to dial in the gears and that may require adjustment of the fulcrum
Yes, based on a full sized cable with a nice wide arc at the front.
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Old 01-31-19, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Beautiful bike.
My only comment is I'd prefer the trigger "flattened"...
Flattened??
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Old 01-31-19, 11:53 PM
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What brand of bicycle is it?

Hola, mi nombre es Nicolás, soy de Uruguay. Me gustaría saber qué marca ?es esta bicicleta vieja, tiene ruedas 28x 1 1/2 number frame 23032
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