For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Regards Peter.
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Arrived today, my special tool to extract the end cap of BSA 3 Speed inside Brake Drum. Because of the Hub Brake the 3 speed end cap is situated inside the brake drum, too deeply to get an effective wrench purchase on it. BSA had a special tool to extract the end cap but these are probably rarer than Hens Teeth and if anyone has one they probably do not know what it is for. I want to overhaul the 3 Speed while I am restoring the bike so the only way to be able to dismantle the hub was to design my own tool and have it made by a machine shop. I produced a drawing and sent it for quotes and Oakhammer Engineering Ltd of Corby UK contacted me with a very reasonable cost and once I said go ahead made it in 24hrs. It arrived today and is a perfect fit, I will probably start on it tomorrow but here are some photos and my drawing which is free to use by anyone with BSA 3 Speed Hubs to overhaul. Incidentally instead of case hardening the flats they used EN24T which is a tougher steel and perfectly adequate for the amount of use this toll will endure:-
Design Drawing for Extractor Tool.
You can see the two flats on the BSA 3 Speed End Cap.
The tool fits onto the spindle mating with the flats on the end cap and the spindle nut locks it in place. Remember to keep slackening the hub bearings and the tool securing nut to provide space as the end cap is unscrewed.
Design Drawing for Extractor Tool.
You can see the two flats on the BSA 3 Speed End Cap.
The tool fits onto the spindle mating with the flats on the end cap and the spindle nut locks it in place. Remember to keep slackening the hub bearings and the tool securing nut to provide space as the end cap is unscrewed.
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Arrived today, my special tool to extract the end cap of BSA 3 Speed inside Brake Drum. Because of the Hub Brake the 3 speed end cap is situated inside the brake drum, too deeply to get an effective wrench purchase on it. BSA had a special tool to extract the end cap but these are probably rarer than Hens Teeth and if anyone has one they probably do not know what it is for. I want to overhaul the 3 Speed while I am restoring the bike so the only way to be able to dismantle the hub was to design my own tool and have it made by a machine shop. I produced a drawing and sent it for quotes and Oakhammer Engineering Ltd of Corby UK contacted me with a very reasonable cost and once I said go ahead made it in 24hrs. It arrived today and is a perfect fit, I will probably start on it tomorrow but here are some photos and my drawing which is free to use by anyone with BSA 3 Speed Hubs to overhaul. Incidentally instead of case hardening the flats they used EN24T which is a tougher steel and perfectly adequate for the amount of use this toll will endure:-

Design Drawing for Extractor Tool.

You can see the two flats on the BSA 3 Speed End Cap.

The tool fits onto the spindle mating with the flats on the end cap and the spindle nut locks it in place. Remember to keep slackening the hub bearings and the tool securing nut to provide space as the end cap is unscrewed.

Design Drawing for Extractor Tool.

You can see the two flats on the BSA 3 Speed End Cap.

The tool fits onto the spindle mating with the flats on the end cap and the spindle nut locks it in place. Remember to keep slackening the hub bearings and the tool securing nut to provide space as the end cap is unscrewed.
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Very cool. Is that from a movie we might recognize?
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Awesome! An old tool has been reborn. We are always lucky to have technical members present in this vintage hobby! Everybody has a skill to bring to this work we do on our steeds. We are all the richer!
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Adding the drum brake makes it necessary to have a special tool to extract the N/S end plate. The normal one can be got off with a large adjustable spanner.
Last edited by PeterLYoung; 02-27-19 at 05:32 PM.
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I think the internals are identical as I have a spare that I have dismantled as a practice exercise and I don't see any real difference. BSA copied the Sturmey Archer 'X' type under a licence granted by SA in 1907 if my memory is correct and never really made any improvements manufacturing it up until the early fifties as I understand it when the switched to the SA AW 9unless others know better than I). My understanding is that it was a very reliable design. I am only dismantling this one from my 1936 BSA to give it a good internal clean/inspection & lube as I am restoring the bike. It has been working perfectly.
Adding the drum brake makes it necessary to have a special tool to extract the N/S end plate. The normal one can be got off with a large adjustable spanner.
Adding the drum brake makes it necessary to have a special tool to extract the N/S end plate. The normal one can be got off with a large adjustable spanner.
There are couple of critical elements to the assembly procedure which I demonstrated in this video. I think I shared this here before. It's the only video on Youtube showing detail of a BSA hub as far as I am aware.
The reason the hub came to me in the first place is the owner tried to overhaul it himself, and missed the part about ensuring the high speed pawls were seated up on the running track, and they were jammed against it.
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Arrived today, my special tool to extract the end cap of BSA 3 Speed inside Brake Drum. Because of the Hub Brake the 3 speed end cap is situated inside the brake drum, too deeply to get an effective wrench purchase on it. BSA had a special tool to extract the end cap but these are probably rarer than Hens Teeth and if anyone has one they probably do not know what it is for. I want to overhaul the 3 Speed while I am restoring the bike so the only way to be able to dismantle the hub was to design my own tool and have it made by a machine shop. I produced a drawing and sent it for quotes and Oakhammer Engineering Ltd of Corby UK contacted me with a very reasonable cost and once I said go ahead made it in 24hrs. It arrived today and is a perfect fit, I will probably start on it tomorrow but here are some photos and my drawing which is free to use by anyone with BSA 3 Speed Hubs to overhaul. Incidentally instead of case hardening the flats they used EN24T which is a tougher steel and perfectly adequate for the amount of use this toll will endure:-

Design Drawing for Extractor Tool.

You can see the two flats on the BSA 3 Speed End Cap.

The tool fits onto the spindle mating with the flats on the end cap and the spindle nut locks it in place. Remember to keep slackening the hub bearings and the tool securing nut to provide space as the end cap is unscrewed.

Design Drawing for Extractor Tool.

You can see the two flats on the BSA 3 Speed End Cap.

The tool fits onto the spindle mating with the flats on the end cap and the spindle nut locks it in place. Remember to keep slackening the hub bearings and the tool securing nut to provide space as the end cap is unscrewed.
Not sure where the new topic tab is...
Newly listed on Toronto Kijiji.
Could be a Dunelt? @ $150.00


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Speaking of odd internal gear hubs, this one came to me a few days ago. It's obviously missing some crucial components, such as the axle, but anyone recognize what it might be?





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Looks like BSA internals, which are a copy of Sturmey Archer X model.
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Re: forum appearance, you likely slipped into mobile mode. Look for pull down menu upper left and switch to Full Site
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Yes, it is a Glider.
I should have known.
I had the same one through here a few years ago with the
same bracket...and same colour.
I suspect that they were sometimes assembled from the parts bins...


Last edited by gster; 02-28-19 at 09:24 AM.
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This is my 1936 BSA roadster BSA 3 Speed.
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PS Oh wait, I see it's recessed and you can't reach the flats with a wrench.
Last edited by paulb_in_bkln; 02-28-19 at 04:57 PM.
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I'll have to watch for that, thanks.
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Yes Dan the flats are deep inside the brake drum. The tool works brilliantly, I removed the N/S Bearing put the tool on and secured it with a wheel nut. I then turned the wheel over and clamped the tool in the vice and rotated the wheel (Left Hand Thread) and it released immediately. This tool would even be a help with a normal hub as it provides such a secure method of release.
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1936 Hetchins Brilliant with Sturmey Archer K hub, Resillion brakes, Chater Lea chainset and pedals, Brooks B17 saddle and Dunlop lightweight rims.


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Last edited by Steve Bauserman; 03-05-19 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Typo
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I have put about 50 miles on the bike over that last few weeks.
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)