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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 05-02-19, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
If only we so lucky!
We used hollowed out rat skulls....
Luxury!

We had to sell our rat skulls for tubes with holes in them
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Old 05-02-19, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
On another note, now that the SOTS April Challenge is over I want to go ahead and switch my 451 20” rims for some aluminium ones. Sorry to find out that pickings in that ISO are slim indeed. Might have to settle for a black CR18 product. Looks like it would match up close enough to tape the rims together and transfer the spokes over though.

i will be sticking with 451

Anybody else find this to be true, scarcity and ease?
Just a comment on transferring spokes - I haven't tried taping rims together but this sounds like a great idea. I got super frustrated a couple of weeks ago when I'd got confused with the instructions for lacing 40h rims and got the valve hole in the wrong place. (I can usually get 36 hole rims laced correct the 1st time, but jeebers crikey the 32h front SA drum hub with the double 'peanut' holes on one side nearly had me chucking the whole thing in the back creek).
So I needed to rotate each spoke 1 or 2 holes, can't remember now, to get the valve hole in the right place. I used tie wire at the spoke crossings so that the hub could remain spoked and be moved as a whole 'unit'. Undo spoke nipples, rotate spokes and hub, replace spoke nipples. I used the little plastic coated twist ties that come with freezer bags. Wish I'd thought of this before now.

Last edited by arty dave; 05-02-19 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 05-02-19, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ascherer
Luxury!

We had to sell our rat skulls for tubes with holes in them
Tubes with holes in 'em?
I wish!
We had to stuff our tires
full of old rags and banana peels!
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Old 05-03-19, 08:04 AM
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Old 05-03-19, 02:39 PM
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Community Spirit Makes the Wheels Go RoundPicked up my front Westwood wheel today for the 1930 Hercules.
A lot of people helped in this project.
The NOS rim from Clubman in Nova Scotia
The NOS hub from Hoop Rider in Owen Sound
The NOS tire from my friend George in Parkdale
And Riders Bikes for putting it all together.
And everyone else that makes helpful comments
on this forum.
Now to put it on the bike.

Last edited by gster; 05-03-19 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 05-03-19, 03:05 PM
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Installed.
I need to manipulate the front fender a bit.
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Old 05-03-19, 05:47 PM
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Looks great! Love it when a group effort produces the win. Great going you all!

drooling over the Bike show coming around up there. Sure to be a big time for everyone. Almost don’t want to see the great stuff you all bring home. Almost...

Today I got the new aluminium seatpost for the R20. Lots more post down the seat tube and good micro adjustments for the Colt saddle. No time to look for the SA spanners which might be hiding at the LBS. maybe tomorrow.
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Old 05-03-19, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Installed.
I need to manipulate the front fender a bit.
Looks great. I think you need a big-arse rear rack for hauling rocks, animal carcasses, piston engines...
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Old 05-03-19, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Looks great! Love it when a group effort produces the win. Great going you all!

drooling over the Bike show coming around up there. Sure to be a big time for everyone. Almost donít want to see the great stuff you all bring home. Almost...

Today I got the new aluminium seatpost for the R20. Lots more post down the seat tube and good micro adjustments for the Colt saddle. No time to look for the SA spanners which might be hiding at the LBS. maybe tomorrow.
Yeah, it's a good show.
The trouble with those SA spanners is that they're so small
and easy to misplace....
I'm sure there's a warehouse in New Jersey
full of them.
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Old 05-03-19, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
Looks great. I think you need a big-arse rear rack for hauling rocks, animal carcasses, piston engines...
I think it's time (again) for
Monty Pythons
Bicycle Repairman!

better link
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2howud

Last edited by gster; 05-03-19 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 05-03-19, 08:43 PM
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Dunelt

I had a Dunelt when I was about 10. When I finally grew enough to reach the pedals I removed the fenders, chain guard and reversed the handlebars. I was the fastest kid in town.😙
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Old 05-04-19, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Cycle Tourist
I had a Dunelt when I was about 10. When I finally grew enough to reach the pedals I removed the fenders, chain guard and reversed the handlebars. I was the fastest kid in town.😙
That makes you an official Scorcher. I even recreated my boyhood Rudge although since I don't last long on drop bars these days, the bars are upright. It also has a kickstand which I would never have had on my "racing bike" when I was a kid. I wouldn't have wanted all that extra weight slowing me down!
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Old 05-04-19, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
That makes you an official Scorcher. I even recreated my boyhood Rudge although since I don't last long on drop bars these days, the bars are upright. It also has a kickstand which I would never have had on my "racing bike" when I was a kid. I wouldn't have wanted all that extra weight slowing me down!
Good point. Those old double legged stands are quite heavy.
I remove them and usually replace with an aluminum single.
In fact, a few years ago I bought an old Dunelt (since stolen) from a guy for $50.00.
It was going to be a scorcher build.
I stripped off the fenders, kickstand, saddle, light etc
and posted the parts for sale on Kijiji.
The same guy that sold me the bike
came over and bought the parts back!
I couldn't charge much...
As Purchased

As stolen
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Old 05-04-19, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Tubes with holes in 'em?
I wish!
We had to stuff our tires
full of old rags and banana peels!
Everybody talks about the good old days but if your family was too poor to afford compressed air you knew suffering.
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Old 05-04-19, 03:58 PM
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So no SA spanners yet but did pull a shifter out of a bin which is in great shape yet missing the lever. My thinking is I can punch the pin which secures the lever and put another in its place. Plastic cover in such nice shape.

other bits are a lone lock washer, some more old metal valve caps and a one piece bolt for the 3speedslow chain. I like those better then the 2 bolt system on my R20.

Q? Anyone heard of a coaster hub with screw on cog made by Perry of England? I think the name is perry.
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Old 05-04-19, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow

So no SA spanners yet but did pull a shifter out of a bin which is in great shape yet missing the lever. My thinking is I can punch the pin which secures the lever and put another in its place. Plastic cover in such nice shape.

other bits are a lone lock washer, some more old metal valve caps and a one piece bolt for the 3speedslow chain. I like those better then the 2 bolt system on my R20.

Q? Anyone heard of a coaster hub with screw on cog made by Perry of England? I think the name is perry.
Yeah, Perry were big back in the day.
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Perry_and_Co

Well, there's your problem.: Perry Coaster Hub
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Old 05-04-19, 05:52 PM
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Old 05-04-19, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Q? Anyone heard of a coaster hub with screw on cog made by Perry of England? I think the name is perry.
Perry's were very popular in the post war period when Britain was retooling. I've come across a dozen of them in my time yet none of them worked well, if at all.
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Old 05-04-19, 05:54 PM
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Old 05-04-19, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I'll take one P314 22T at $0.70 please. Looks like the same threaded cog on my Brampton 3 speed (also made in Birmingham) on the Royal Nord President.
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Old 05-04-19, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Good point. Those old double legged stands are quite heavy.
I remove them and usually replace with an aluminum single.
In fact, a few years ago I bought an old Dunelt (since stolen) from a guy for $50.00.
It was going to be a scorcher build.
I stripped off the fenders, kickstand, saddle, light etc
and posted the parts for sale on Kijiji.
The same guy that sold me the bike
came over and bought the parts back!
I couldn't charge much...
As Purchased

As stolen
I remember going down to Western Auto and buying a "racing seat" for my Rudge when I was 12 or so. Back then, racing was anything other than a mattress. As I recall, it was a cheap molded plastic seat that was probably horribly uncomfortable. Funny, it didn't bother me at the time. And don't forget "racing" pedals...anything other than rubber blocks. I can't remember where I got those. They weren't new. Gosh, that was long ago. These days, my favorite kickstand for roadsters is the ESGE. Especially the made for Raleigh ones with the long ears on the top plate. These engage the bottom plate to help resist rotation.

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Old 05-04-19, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
I remember going down to Western Auto and buying a "racing seat" for my Rudge when I was 12 or so. Back then, racing was anything other than a mattress. As I recall, it was a cheap molded plastic seat that was probably horribly uncomfortable. Funny, it didn't bother me at the time. And don't forget "racing" pedals...anything other than rubber blocks. I can't remember where I got those. They weren't new. Gosh, that was long ago. These days, my favorite kickstand for roadsters is the ESGE. Especially the made for Raleigh ones with the long ears on the top plate. These engage the bottom plate to help resist rotation.

Those are the stands I like as well (or similar)
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Old 05-04-19, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by browngw
I'll take one P314 22T at $0.70 please. Looks like the same threaded cog on my Brampton 3 speed (also made in Birmingham) on the Royal Nord President.
Spendthrift.
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Old 05-05-19, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Installed.
I need to manipulate the front fender a bit.
Looks Great, you have done a really nice restoration here, enjoy the ride!!!!
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Old 05-05-19, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
I'm a little confused about the angle. There isn't room to place the press overtop of the cotter and align the bolt properly above the cotter pin. During disassembly, the press fits with the crank arm inside the 'C', and I just pushed out the cotter pin.

It may be something obvious I'm missing. I also can't seem to get the AG hub cone adjustment done correctly today either. I did take apart the right (drive) side to have a look inside and service the bearings. Now I can't get thr adjustment right - it also seems like I have less space on the drive side axle end. I think the right side cone isn't correct. One of those shop days...
Did you follow Sheldon Brown's Instructions, step 11 spells out critical setting of Drive Side Cone which if not correctly followed upsets gear mechanism. It is reproduced below:-

Re-Assembly

1. If the left hand ball cup has been removed from the hub shell, replace it by screwing anti clockwise (it has a left-hand thread).

2. Prepare the following subassemblies:

o Fit the ball cage into the driver, with the ring of the ball-retainer facing outwards and the recess in the dust cap also facing outwards. If a new ball retainer is being fitted, the dust cap also should be new. If the sprocket has been removed, see No. 23 below.

o Fit the balls (only 24) and the inner dust cap to the right-hand ball ring, making sure that the balls can revolve freely with the dust cap in place.

o Fit the pawls, pins and springs into the gear ring as described in the general instructions to 'The Re-Assembling of Sturmey Archer Hubs'. (The planet-cage pawls, pins and springs are not fitted at this stage.)

o Smear grease in the channels of the dust cap of the driver and in the recess of the right-hand ball ring. Do not use grease anywhere else.

3. Hold the left-hand end of the axle in a vise, so that the slot for the axle key is above the sun pinion, and fit the planet cage.

4. Ad the planet pinions and pins. (The small ends of the pins protrude.)

5. Fit the sleeve (flange first), the sliding clutch with the recess over the flange of the sleeve and the axle key (with the flat of the key facing upwards), and screw in the indicator rod to hold them in that position.

6. Fit the thrust ring and washer, making sure that the flattened ends of the key engage properly in the slots of the thrust ring. [These parts are combined into one in later production.]

7. Fit the previously prepared gear ring sub-assembly.

8. Fit the previously prepared right-hand ball-ring sub-assembly.

9. Fit the previously prepared driver sub-assembly.

10.Drop the clutch spring over the axle.

11.Fit the cap and screw up the right-hand cone finger-tight. Then Loosen it back half a turn and lock it in that position with the special washer and locknut. On no account must the cone be unscrewed more than half a turn, as that would throw the gear mechanism out of adjustment.

12.Invert the assembly in the vise and pour about two teaspoonfuls of good quality thin oil into the planet cage, then fit the planet cage pawls as described in the general instructions to 'The Re-assembling of Sturmey-Archer Hubs'.

13.Screw up the left-hand cone.

14.If the magnet and armature have been separated, take the magnet and keeper ring in the left hand and, with the right hand, lay the armature alongside it.

15.While holding the magnet with the chamfer facing outwards, push the armature and the keeper through so that the magnet slides from the keeper on to the armature

16.Fit the card disc (carrying patent numbers) inside the cover plate, with its notches opposite the magnet notches.

17.Fit the cover plate over the magnet, chamfer inwards, making sure that the four holes in the cover plate are in line with the notches in the card and the magnet.

18.Fit the metal spacing ring into the hub shell.

19.Fit the shim washer.

20.Push the complete dynamo unit into the hub shell, making sure that the holes in the cover plate are in line with those in the hub shell.

21.Fit the magnet fixing screws, washers and nuts.

22.Fit the spacing washers, adjusting washers and dynamo cone lock nut in arrangement noted when dismantling. Check wheel adjustment.

23.If the sprocket has been removed from the driver, fit the outer dust cap over the driver before replacing the sprocket, and see that the dust cap is properly centerd on the flange of the driver. Replace the sprocket and spacing washers in the arrangement noted when dismantling, and add the circlip.

24.Replace the wheel in the cycle frame and adjust the gear as described in 'The Installation and Adjustment of Sturmey-Archer Hubs.'
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