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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 05-26-19, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesj
Iím putting my 1974 Superbe back together and I noticed that the top headset cup pops into place without a headset press. The bottom did need to be pressed into place. It is tight but still rotates a bit. It does look like it was reamed at some point.







If you are concerned about it, a retaining compound such as Loctite 641 would hold it securely.
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Old 05-26-19, 08:45 PM
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I wouldn't be concerned about it. The upper race and bearings will hold it square to the fork tube and the ball bearings prevent any torque that would turn it in the frame. No need for a tight press fit in my opinion.
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Old 05-27-19, 12:12 PM
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Mixed news on the Raleigh Sport. The seat post is NOT stuck (yay!), but the IGH is frozen. I inserted a new indicator pin, but it won't budge. Guess I'll have to consult Sheldon. I may start taking things apart tonight, after it cools down to 90!
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Old 05-27-19, 05:36 PM
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My New Best Friend
Vinegar
I half soaked this spindle overnight in
a cup of vinegar.
It really works to remove
the rust.

left side soaked, right side not.
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Old 05-27-19, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by horatio
Mixed news on the Raleigh Sport. The seat post is NOT stuck (yay!), but the IGH is frozen. I inserted a new indicator pin, but it won't budge. Guess I'll have to consult Sheldon. I may start taking things apart tonight, after it cools down to 90!
If they sit for a long time, water can collect and pool in the bottom causing
problems...
Perhaps filling it with vinegar might work?
I've never tried it.
I normally open the non drive side and
flush out the hub with
-2 kettles of boiling water
followed by a good flush with
varsol/paint thinner.
spinning the cog as you go.
let dry and then
add some oil.
It's like getting your ear flushed.
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Old 05-27-19, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
If they sit for a long time, water can collect and pool in the bottom causing
problems...
Perhaps filling it with vinegar might work?
I've never tried it.
I normally open the non drive side and
flush out the hub with
-2 kettles of boiling water
followed by a good flush with
varsol/paint thinner.
spinning the cog as you go.
let dry and then
add some oil.
It's like getting your ear flushed.
There's a YouTube guy who recommends flushing everything with WD40. May give that (or the more environmentally-friendly vinegar) a try, before taking everything apart. The axle threads are very rusty on the drive side, so I imagine the internals look similar. I did find one really good video on hub cleaning. I think I can manage, just need to remember what goes where! Of course, there will be pics.
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Old 05-27-19, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by horatio
There's a YouTube guy who recommends flushing everything with WD40. May give that (or the more environmentally-friendly vinegar) a try, before taking everything apart. The axle threads are very rusty on the drive side, so I imagine the internals look similar. I did find one really good video on hub cleaning. I think I can manage, just need to remember what goes where! Of course, there will be pics.
Next time I flush a hub
I'm going with the vinegar.
Caution!
Do not mix with bleach.
= Chlorine Gas.
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Old 05-27-19, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by horatio
Mixed news on the Raleigh Sport. The seat post is NOT stuck (yay!), but the IGH is frozen. I inserted a new indicator pin, but it won't budge. Guess I'll have to consult Sheldon. I may start taking things apart tonight, after it cools down to 90!
This could be serious but it isn't necessarily. The AW I'm using on my mixte conversion was frozen, too. I sprayed it full of Power Blaster from Home Depot. A little while later a few tugs on the indicator chain and it freed up. I then put real lube in it pending a tear down but it's been working fine.
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Old 05-27-19, 07:36 PM
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I have had a couple AW hubs that were rusty inside, but that's rare. Most of the time it's just dried up oil and gunk. Both rusty hubs I rebuilt needed new pawl springs.
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Old 05-27-19, 08:49 PM
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I took my AG apart after filling it with wd40 and then some PB blaster and it looked great. There was a lot of old grease from 1950 that was gellied. I think the hub was barely broken in when the bike was put away. I filled it with 20w oil.

The donor 1979 Sports AW is immaculate on the outside, however the inside is dry and crusty. I am going to rebuild it as a test of methods before I rebuild my 1953 FW. They are neat machines. Do you guys know how to attach a new sturmey archer shifter cable to a 1950 shifter? Its a bit of a mystery to me.
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Old 05-28-19, 03:47 AM
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Thanks, all. I’ll give it a good flush sometime this week, when the mood strikes.
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Old 05-28-19, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
I took my AG apart after filling it with wd40 and then some PB blaster and it looked great. There was a lot of old grease from 1950 that was gellied. I think the hub was barely broken in when the bike was put away. I filled it with 20w oil.

The donor 1979 Sports AW is immaculate on the outside, however the inside is dry and crusty. I am going to rebuild it as a test of methods before I rebuild my 1953 FW. They are neat machines. Do you guys know how to attach a new sturmey archer shifter cable to a 1950 shifter? Its a bit of a mystery to me.
With the early 3 or 4 speed shifters, you have to lift the pawl up with a small screw driver to thread the cable end through. Also, the ferrule is threaded with a blank spot at the bottom so it spins freely once screwed in all the way. To remove it, just pull back and turn until the threads engage.
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Old 05-28-19, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
With the early 3 or 4 speed shifters, you have to lift the pawl up with a small screw driver to thread the cable end through. Also, the ferrule is threaded with a blank spot at the bottom so it spins freely once screwed in all the way. To remove it, just pull back and turn until the threads engage.
Thanks BigChief. I was confused about attaching the new one to the 3/4 speed shifter. I will be gentle with the pawl. So the new cable ferrule should thread into the shifter without an issue? That's a relief. I'm setting it up this weekend, running the brake cables, and taking it for a ride after testing. I can't wait!
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Old 05-28-19, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
Thanks BigChief. I was confused about attaching the new one to the 3/4 speed shifter. I will be gentle with the pawl. So the new cable ferrule should thread into the shifter without an issue? That's a relief. I'm setting it up this weekend, running the brake cables, and taking it for a ride after testing. I can't wait!
Some cable ferrules are ball ended for the later triggers with keyhole slots, some are threaded. If you're using a pinch bolt adapter at the indicator, the cable comes apart so you can use your original ferrule if the new one has the ball end type. Another issue is that some cables use crimped on ends can be too fat to fit into the slot in the hardened plate in the shifter. It's good to check to see if it fits nicely because it's a pest to remove them when they're stuck in tight. Just file it down a bit if it's too tight. Most replacement cables you find today are universal fit and use a pinch bolt adapter at the indicator end. There are ways to avoid the adapter and have the cable run directly into the barrel adjuster like the original, but it's more work and only crazy people like me care about this sort of thing.
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Old 05-28-19, 07:38 PM
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Spotted this bike on Craigslist and thought it was cool looking. Very much old school, but looks brand new I'm not familiar with the brand.
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Old 05-28-19, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 88Tempo


Spotted this bike on Craigslist and thought it was cool looking. Very much old school, but looks brand new I'm not familiar with the brand.
It's Chinese, a Raleigh copy.
Interesting bikes but very heavy
and no gears.
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Old 05-28-19, 08:09 PM
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@gster
The Ad said it was from Uganda. I just thought it was interesting because it appeared newish, but the style/geometry was very much old.
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Old 05-28-19, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 88Tempo
@gster
The Ad said it was from Uganda. I just thought it was interesting because it appeared newish, but the style/geometry was very much old.
You can buy one new
They still make them.
$40.00 approx over there.
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Old 05-28-19, 08:28 PM
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I think they are cool looking, but for really old stuff like that I'd prefer the Clubman? style. The one that looks like an old school road bike with a 3 speed hub.


I'm new at this whole vintage thing.
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Old 05-29-19, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 88Tempo
I think they are cool looking, but for really old stuff like that I'd prefer the Clubman? style. The one that looks like an old school road bike with a 3 speed hub.


I'm new at this whole vintage thing.
They are cool looking.
They're copies of a classic Raleigh
DL-1 (Tourist)

These were made up until 1981 or so.
These are big heavy bikes as well but not
as bad as the Chinese/Indian copies.
The build quality is better and they
have 3 speeds.
There's plenty of them out there (as well as other
British 3 speeds) at reasonable prices.
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Old 05-29-19, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 88Tempo
I think they are cool looking, but for really old stuff like that I'd prefer the Clubman? style. The one that looks like an old school road bike with a 3 speed hub.


I'm new at this whole vintage thing.
Ah yes, those are the cream of the crop. Bikes like Raleigh Clubmans and Rudge Pathfinders. These were the lightweight sport models that go back to the days of English riding clubs.

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Old 05-29-19, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Ah yes, those are the cream of the crop. Bikes like Raleigh Clubmans and Rudge Pathfinders. These were the lightweight sport models that go back to the days of English riding clubs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPkT0paGEnQ
No idea if it's still around now but that tradition of a social and sporting life centered on club participation (such as in A Boy a Girl and a Bike) was still important not even that long ago.

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Old 05-29-19, 07:43 AM
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@BigChief

Yes those are exactly what I'm talking about. Unfortunately at 6'2" I'm rather unlikely to come across one in my area that also fits.

Not to mention budget wise I couldn't do a restoration justice.
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Old 05-29-19, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Ah yes, those are the cream of the crop. Bikes like Raleigh Clubmans and Rudge Pathfinders. These were the lightweight sport models that go back to the days of English riding clubs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPkT0paGEnQ
I never tire of watching Cyclist's Special. That traveler's wagon at 10:30.
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Old 05-29-19, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Ah yes, those are the cream of the crop. Bikes like Raleigh Clubmans and Rudge Pathfinders. These were the lightweight sport models that go back to the days of English riding clubs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPkT0paGEnQ
I really like that video. I think I'd like to find a Raleigh Clubman or Lenton Sports machine one day to complement my 1950 Superbe in a lighter, faster flavour to take on country road day rides. I imagine 23" models are few and far between though. I got lucky enough finding an early model 23" Superbe I suppose.
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