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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 06-14-19, 06:37 PM
  #20701  
clubman
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Originally Posted by Alloyboy View Post


Remember extra links needed going from 18 teeth to a 22. Old faithful link splitter does wonders.
I have my old faithful chain link thingy for many years.
Loves me the Rivoli (won'r use Park AGAIN. (PINS BEND)

Last edited by clubman; 06-14-19 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 06-14-19, 06:38 PM
  #20702  
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Originally Posted by dweenk View Post
I had a cheap chain tool that I bought around 1972 - doubt if I paid more than $3 for it. It lasted until 2015 when one of the chain stops sheared off. I bought a Bell tool for around $10 and broke the pin on the second use. Now I have a Park chain tool and Park link pliers for quick links and life is good.
I've had a number of quick links that aren't 1/8" gauge. Which are you using?
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Old 06-14-19, 06:51 PM
  #20703  
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Yikes...I must be the last one here using archaic master links with the tiny "loose me please" clips and I never knew it.
I still like and use the master link. Canadian Tire now sells the chain and the link as
separate pieces....
Charging $4.00 for the link.
You need to align the clip so it "pulls" against the curve.
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Old 06-14-19, 06:59 PM
  #20704  
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Originally Posted by Alloyboy View Post
Special thanks to Dan Burkhart for the 22 tooth cog.
I quite like the 20-22 cog range.
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Old 06-14-19, 07:23 PM
  #20705  
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Originally Posted by sykerocker View Post
Will probably replace with a B-72, which would look proper and is a heck of a lot easier to find.
Although Brooks have discontinued the B72 I learned a couple weeks ago they still have some new black ones for sale. VERY EXPENSIVE however: $190.
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Old 06-14-19, 07:25 PM
  #20706  
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Originally Posted by Alloyboy View Post

Remember extra links needed going from 18 teeth to a 22. Old faithful link splitter does wonders.
I have my old faithful chain link thingy for many years.
I still have my Rivoli chain tool also! But the pin is bent. It's useless now.
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Old 06-14-19, 08:09 PM
  #20707  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
I quite like the 20-22 cog range.
It's great to have these cog choices. My DL-1 is from 1970 so it has the later 46T chainring. The 22T cog makes all the difference in the world for me. I use all three on that bike. With the original 16T, it was a two speed for me. The scorcher is happy with 48x20, but the much heavier full dress 51 Rudge I only ride in normal and low with that configuration. I don't think 22T would be enough to make high a good cruising gear on that bike. I was surprised how much heavier the pre 2030 frames are. Especially when you add a dyno hub and B66. I haven't weighed it but it doesn't feel any lighter then the DL-1.
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Old 06-14-19, 08:20 PM
  #20708  
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Originally Posted by Alloyboy View Post


Remember extra links needed going from 18 teeth to a 22. Old faithful link splitter does wonders.
I have my old faithful chain link thingy for many years.
That's the same one I have. Your box is in slightly better shape though. Everytime I get it out I think to myself I probably should get a new one, but now I'll just think of it as classic.
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Old 06-14-19, 11:17 PM
  #20709  
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln View Post
I still have my Rivoli chain tool also! But the pin is bent. It's useless now.
Bend it back! It may break off, but, the tool doesn't work now, so there no loss if bending it back doesn't work.
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Old 06-15-19, 06:38 AM
  #20710  
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
It's great to have these cog choices. My DL-1 is from 1970 so it has the later 46T chainring. The 22T cog makes all the difference in the world for me. I use all three on that bike. With the original 16T, it was a two speed for me. The scorcher is happy with 48x20, but the much heavier full dress 51 Rudge I only ride in normal and low with that configuration. I don't think 22T would be enough to make high a good cruising gear on that bike. I was surprised how much heavier the pre 2030 frames are. Especially when you add a dyno hub and B66. I haven't weighed it but it doesn't feel any lighter then the DL-1.
Yes, I find the standard 18T cog doesn't suit me anymore. It's possible it never did but
I didn't know how easy it was to change.
I've been riding my Robin Hood SS (Semi-Scorcher) to work lately.
I think it has a 20 on it.
I find the gear range both useful and comfortable.
I'm riding with rush hour traffic so I have no need to be
a speed demon.

Frame year unknown with a '63 hub, new tires and brakes with a vintage Wrights saddle.
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Old 06-15-19, 09:05 AM
  #20711  
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Yikes...I must be the last one here using archaic master links with the tiny "loose me please" clips and I never knew it.
Uhh.... not exactly.
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Old 06-15-19, 09:11 AM
  #20712  
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Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
Bend it back! It may break off, but, the tool doesn't work now, so there no loss if bending it back doesn't work.
Worth trying. I bought the little Park version and that one not only is a bit more comfortable in the hand than the Rivoli but the pin can be replaced. It's about the same size and weight as the Rivoli. I still have I think two bikes where the chains don't have a master link. When I went to buy a chain for the mixte conversion the bike shop was out of stock so Mike grabbed up like a dozen bits of leftover single speed chain (all matching) threw them in a bag and handed them to me and I spent maybe a half hour or a little more pinning them all together.
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Old 06-15-19, 09:18 AM
  #20713  
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Rudi the saddle guy riveted my good B72 cover to an intact used frame. (The frame breaks if you use Joe Breeze's seat sandwich. Ask me how I know.) He used these really fine wide brass rivets. It looks so good. I almost want to ask him to do my other saddles that way, too.
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Old 06-15-19, 09:31 AM
  #20714  
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
I've had a number of quick links that aren't 1/8" gauge. Which are you using?
For 3/32" I use Sram PC830 chains - I like their quick links. For 1/8" chains I've been using Bell (I think) chains that I bought when K-Mart was closing - their quick links are more old school.
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Old 06-15-19, 11:00 AM
  #20715  
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Special thanks to Dan Burkhart for the 22 tooth cog.

Last edited by Alloyboy; 06-15-19 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Forgot to address to paulb in bklyn.
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Old 06-15-19, 11:07 AM
  #20716  
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Paulb in bklyn, The bent pin is removable and replaced with the spare one enclosed in the original box. Jim.

Last edited by Alloyboy; 06-15-19 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 06-15-19, 02:11 PM
  #20717  
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Just for comparison, 406 modern rim which is going on my Dahon folder nestled inside the 451 rim soon on my R20.


Good looking replacement with safety benefits but dang!, that chrome does shine.
I had to decide which 3 speed project was going to get my meager funds. The scorcher needed LED bulbs or my Twenty needed safe stop aluminium rims.

I chose the rims. CR18 20 451 28 hole. Had to wait quite awhile as nobody had them. Now back in stock and delivered to the LBS today! Im going to miss that shiny chrome but I do want a sure stop.

The new new rims are 22.3mm wide while the originals are 28.3 I also held them both together and worked out the spoke hole orientation. From valve hole to valve hole, the left /right does not match which means I will slide it back one spoke for the correct alignment. Plan is for tape together and walk the spokes over.

some pics...
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Old 06-16-19, 02:20 PM
  #20718  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post


Just for comparison, 406 modern rim which is going on my Dahon folder nestled inside the 451 rim soon on my R20.


Good looking replacement with safety benefits but dang!, that chrome does shine.
I had to decide which 3 speed project was going to get my meager funds. The scorcher needed LED bulbs or my Twenty needed safe stop aluminium rims.

I chose the rims. CR18 20 451 28 hole. Had to wait quite awhile as nobody had them. Now back in stock and delivered to the LBS today! Im going to miss that shiny chrome but I do want a sure stop.

The new new rims are 22.3mm wide while the originals are 28.3 I also held them both together and worked out the spoke hole orientation. From valve hole to valve hole, the left /right does not match which means I will slide it back one spoke for the correct alignment. Plan is for tape together and walk the spokes over.

some pics...
I used alloy rims on my scorcher and they do give the bike a more sporty feel. I never got the old Endricks truly round but these trued up perfectly without much fuss. Something did happen to me, so I'll pass it on. When I first rolled out on the road with the new rims I was surprised that the brakes didn't work as well as the old chrome rims. So I used the old trick of dulling off the contact area with 400 grit sandpaper. It was like night and day. Now, the brakes had tons of grip. I wonder if they use some sort of wax to keep them new looking while they're in inventory. Don't know, but if this happens to you, not to worry, easy fix.
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Old 06-16-19, 05:40 PM
  #20719  
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Thanks BG! Will keep that in mind before I roll out on these.

i’ve decided it’s also a good time to switch the rear cog to 16 and regressed the BB. I have been using a Teflon spray in there which sets up like grease but don’t want to continue to relie on this method. Will use my friends Park cotter tool to save the pins for reuse. If not, I start saving for something else!
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Old 06-16-19, 09:22 PM
  #20720  
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Start hitting the cotters with penetrating oil right away. I hope I'm not jinxing myself here, but I have never experienced the trouble with cotters that I've seen other people here have. I'm thinking this may be due to my system of oiling them a few days before I start a BB service. I take the nut and washer off and fill the well with PB Blaster. Only twice did I have cotters bend so badly that I had to drill and drive them out with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the threaded end will bend slightly. In that case I put the nut on, chuck it up in the bench vise and tap it straight again. It used to be a big tragedy if I wrecked a cotter getting it out. Filing those cheap cotters they sell these days to fit and align the crank arms at the same time is a pest. Now, with some Bike Smith cotters on hand, I don't have to worry about that anymore.
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Old 06-16-19, 11:27 PM
  #20721  
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Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
Okay, the wait and involuntary drooling on my desk was worth all that...Welcome, properly broken in Noob!
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Old 06-17-19, 04:21 AM
  #20722  
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Still Out There

A Raleigh Folder here in Toronto for $100.00


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Old 06-17-19, 06:27 AM
  #20723  
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln View Post
Rudi the saddle guy riveted my good B72 cover to an intact used frame. (The frame breaks if you use Joe Breeze's seat sandwich. Ask me how I know.) He used these really fine wide brass rivets. It looks so good. I almost want to ask him to do my other saddles that way, too.
Wow, I like it! Tell me more of the Rudi...
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Old 06-17-19, 07:07 AM
  #20724  
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Originally Posted by eatontkd View Post
Wow, I like it! Tell me more of the Rudi...
He's a local and not only was he able to rivet the cover to a new frame (I drilled the cover off the broken frame), he has in the past made new leather covers. But he says that's a lot of work and his costs mean there's no advantage over buying a new saddle. I was able to drop my saddle off and pick it up at his place of business. I don't know how much of this he really wants to do or if he's into shipping. But you can ask. He's RHM on this forum.
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Old 06-17-19, 09:31 AM
  #20725  
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Another Hercules added to my stable!

Hello fellow 3 speeders. Last week I found and purchased a 1953 Hercules Royal Prince, that was only 12 miles away from my home. This is my number 3 of 1953 Hercules that I own. Basically, the bike had good bones, so I went all out on its' rejuvenation. Shown below are the before and after photos of the bike.

Many of the front fork bearings were missing, the front tire and tube had a blow out, the front axel bearing races were pitted, the saddle was made in Taiwon, the hand grips were USA made, The chain had 2 links that were frozen, the rear clamp for the chain guard was missing, one of the pedals dust caps was missing, the kick stand was missing and the complete front brake was missing. Since these early 1950s Hercules are so rare, I had to have it!

I put on new Schwalbe tires/tubes, used original Hercules tan saddle, new matching tan hand grips, used Brooks tan leather tool bag, complete early Hercules front brakes, nice used front axel and bearing races, period correct Midland repainted carrying rack, Miller generator light kit with a stem mounted bracket, NOS Hercules pedals, Raleigh logo kick stand, new indicator chain and its' anchor and all new cables. Coming soon will be reproduction Hercules chainguard sticker, tan pannier bags and matching triangle bag to mount in-between the V portion of the frame.



After1


After2
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